renault4
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Posts posted by renault4
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do you grease a CV joint when re-assembling? or does it bathe in axle oil?
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if you renew the pins and bearings then you will need more shims, then, as the pins wear you remove shims, taking up the slack untill there are no more shims and then you stsart all over again (not that you would, unless you do mega miles)
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there's a chart on here somewhere that gives reletive torque values to a variety of bolt sizes and tensile streangths, I'll have a look and post it later.
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not sure if anyone has covered it, but, put it in gear and shake f**k out of it whilst pulling.
not very technical, but worked for me twice.
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sorry, should have thanked Les first of all, THANKS LES.
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well thanks to Mo Murphy and his magic chart, I think I may have cleared up this mystery.
the bolts on the upper pin are 10mm (17mm spanner) and the grade stamped on the top of the bolt
is 10.9 and the corresponding value for this bolt is 47ft.lbs. exactly what dear old Haynes says.
maybe where Les got his figures from is that tere are two types of upper pin depending on the year
of the land rover and I think the newer ones have smaller bolts.
it just goes to show you should never take anything for granted, always double check. thanks guys for all the replys.
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Les deffinatly refers to the top bolts when he says "17ft. lbs. not 58ft.lbs."
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I am in the middle of re-building my front hubs and swivels, now in the archives Les says that the haynes and rave torque values are wrong,
instead of the published 58ft.lbs. he says it should be 17ft.lbs. (quite a big difference) well my Land Rover workshop manual quotes 58ft.lbs.
so which figure is right?
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I had this problem and it turned out to be the diode on the alternator, a recon alternator cured it (don't know what repair you did on this one)
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Ah I see, we're wrong, parts book right. Ok but why bother asking if you know already ?
Mo
the reason I am asking is because of this obvious dichotomy that exists between the parts book and what other people have fitted to their vehicles
but thanks for your input Mo.
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looking in my parts catalogue (110 1987 0nwards) page 436 it clearly shows no retainer on the front.
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why are there retainers on the bottom of the rear springs but not on the front springs, AND, why do they sell retaining brackets for front springs?
it's all very mysterious as I am going about fitting +4" shocks and spring relocating cones in an effort to gain more articulation and am a little
miffed as to why land rover thought that the front springs would not need fixing to anything but the rear ones do.
any ideas?
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I'v done two of these in situ and it's not very difficult, it is covered on here somewhere in the tech archive.
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sorry just re-read your post, doesn't an auto box have a seperate oil cooler anyway?
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not sure you'd have room for a seperate oil cooler as well as the other two rads but then I have never been convinced of the cooling effect of the integral oilcooler in the RR rad, I have heard of some peeps getting a short U shaped pipe fitted instead of the oil cooler.
If you fit an oil temp guage, you could keep an eye on the oil temp.
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I am in the middle of a bulkhead change and as you do, I'm looking for things to do whilst I'v got the front half stripped. anyway was looking at the diff lock/high low levers and there seems to be a lot of free play in the diff lock lever, I can move the lever two thirds of the way to the left before the diff lock starts to activate
also when moving this lever to the left the high/low lever pivot moves out to the right, should it do this? and how can I get rid of this sloppyness?
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it's much easier to do with the drop arm ON the vehicle as the weight will assist you it's also easier with two pairs of hands
just follow the thread and put the parts together in sequence, the most dificult part is putting the final circlip on, I used an
extension bar from a 1/4 socket set, on top of a bottle jack (slipping the circlip over the bar before jacking it into place,
when you jack it up the parts all compress and you can slip the circlip into place and with circlip pliers make sure it is properly in place, ( before loosening the jack, give the circlip a sideways tap with a hammer and screwdriver just to satisfy yourself that it is ok then release the jack.
slip the top rubber boot on and its wire ring and-------bob's your uncle.
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Hello, recently my 1992 200tdi 90 has acquired a few (more) problems, when I go to brake there seems to be too much travel in the pedal before there is any resistance and if the engine is being revved or I am engine braking and I press the brake pedal it goes pretty much straight to the floor and I have to pump the pedal to get the resistance back, also it pulls to the right when I brake but whether these problems are related or not I dont know.
I have replaced the front discs and pads and brake fluid as it needed doing anyway but problem is still there.
All help appretiated
Thanks
Ethan
the lack of resistance sounds like air in the system, try bleeding it again. the pulling issue could be the caliper on the oposite side siezed try lifting the fromt wheels and spin one at a time whilst someone else operates the brakes.
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I'd go with Q H they'r a good make and only £7.50 each
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just fitting some tuffback shocks and I read somwhere that it is better to run them without the boots on as its easier to hose them clean after a days off roading,but by leaving them on they can trap mud and grit and start to damage the seal, what do you think?
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If you visit landyzone.co.uk and click on "busters photo tour of land rover jobs" and scroll through the list of jobs, one of them is listed as wiper box replacement
and shows (in pictures) how to strip the dash to repair the wiper boxes.
might be usefull.
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why not drop LRO an e-mail
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changing the middle row doors and trying to get at the captive nuts on the B post.
the top hinge has a "nut plate" that the hinge screws into and is easily accesable from inside the B post
but the lower hinge (which I suspect is also held on by a "nut plate"), how to get to it?
ther's a finger sized hole below it but I can't see that's the way to get at it, any ideas?????
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wow wow and thrice, wow.
I'v got this on my 110 csw and THINK it's a rivit on seal
there I'v said it, I might be wrong but I might be right (hope I am )
to grease or not to grease?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
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thanks peeps, CV grease it is then.