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renault4

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Posts posted by renault4

  1. when someone tried to steal my 90 they jimmied the door lock then smashed the interior light then buggered up the ignition then smashed the steering shroud then gave up.

    if we made the OUTDIDE of the vehicule secure (sorry more secure) then some of these scum might think twice and move on then at least they havn't wreaked anything in the proccess

  2. I'v done a search but not come up with anything conclusive so can you help?

    Just recently and only very occasionally, when starting my 1991 defender 90 200 Tdi,

    the starter has just "wurred" 2nd. or 3rd time it has started as it should.

    Now some sugestions are that the bendix needs cleaning as it get clogged up with sh*t

    others say the starter motor has a solonoid not a bendix

    I am confused, if it has a solonoid, does it still get clogged? is this my problem?

    If it is , do I have to remove the starter it to clean it?

  3. just remembered, when I replaced my steerig box, I had to remove my steering colum, the manual said "reMove the bolts and slide off the universal joints"

    I didn't do this, I just slackened then, but then I couldn't get them off!, after a long swearing session, I took the bolts out and the universal joints slid off

    it was then that I saw that the splined ends of the joints had a groove in them to accomodate the bolts and they had to be removed to remove the joint.

  4. I can't afford a snorkel so I'm going to put a piece of 3" flexipipe directly from the air box up through the wing and up the windscreen.

    problem is I want to completely blank off the side vent and drill a hole in the wing top but the heater vent is in the way. Can I ditch the air inlet to the heater and let it just take air from inside the engine compartment? with maybe a mesh cover over the end of the heater fan?. Will this effect the heater's performance(hahaha)?

  5. I was considering this conversion recently but came across a potential problem that might not effect everone.

    I live in south wales and use the severn bridge regulally and a land rover with windows in the back is regarded as a car but a truck cab or van top are regarded as commercial vehicules and as such cost twice as much to cross the bridge. Just something to think of if you live on the right side of offa's dyke

  6. I have just bought an extended breather wading kit off e-bay, it contains connections for both axles, gear box and transfer box now all this is very clear but they have also included connections for the bellhousing and the timimg cover (both of these are normally left open and only closed off when wading with blanking plugs). Would fitting a permemant breather pipe to these two areas be a problem?

  7. further to my previous post about my battery discharging overnight,I have narrowed it down to the alternator.

    with the positive lead off the battery I connected a meter between the possitive lead and the possitive post on the battery and I had a leak of over 3amps

    after a sugestion by a forum member, I un plugged the three pin plug on the back of the alternator and put the meter back on. no leak. plugged the alternator back in and leak is back.

    OK so what do you think could be the problem and what do you think I should change?

  8. 780 amp battery, 18 months old, no previous problems. sunday morning, nice and warm, flat battery.jump leads, no probs, car used all day. next day, flat battery.

    battery charged with charger overnight.next morning, OK, after work OK, next morning, flat battery.Then discovered when reconnecting poss. lead onto battery, a small

    arc, suggesting a flow of current, so, all fuses out but still a small arc. after another re-charge, all OK and still OK when left with battery poss. lead disconected untill needed.

    so my thoughts are that the battery is discharging through something not on the fused side of things, but what can it be?

    what checks can I make to isolate and solve this problem?

  9. already got it planned into memory map, and have my gps linked up to it as well, so shouldn't stray off it. i don't like to go "off piste" where lanes are concerned - unless i feel that the obstacle is beyond either mine or my trucks capabilities. if i do need to stray from the path, then it's usually to straddle a rut that's too deep.

    never done this but want any company?

  10. Having done various different methods i find the easiest way is to take transfer box off first then gearbox, the gearbox crossmember can stay on using this method. i find this easiest for putting it back together aswell because they arent very heavy when seperate. and its much easier to mate gearbox up with engine when the transfer box isnt hanging off the back of it.

    when I changed my clutch, I opted to remove the seatbox floor and gearbox tunnel, then with an engine crane in through the open door removed it that way.

    I can't comment on any other method but this way was a piece of cake

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