Shox Dr

It turned out to be a bad earth. How I don't know because all the cables were made up last year, and they were cleaned when I put the Recon g/box in, last month. Hey Ho, the joys of owning a Land Rover

Starter motor on my 300tdi packed up this weekend, all it was doing was clicking, took it off and the solenoid worked fine and the motor fired up when connected to a spare battery. However when on the engine it refused to turn it. Not had any problems at all, always fired up first turn of the key, Battery is good. So got a brand new unit toady and fitted it, first 3x it fired up, 4th back to click click Wiring is all new, earth has good grounding. All lights on dash are as bright as a button Any suggestions

I wouldn't take a blind bit of notice what they quote. I had a Nissan navara and called up Nissan to ask the same question, as I wanted to build a tilt ramp (Like these http://www.discountramps.com/tilting_atv_rack.htm) for an Enduro Bike I have . Guess what the answer was, 150kg. I then found a document on the web giving me max weight and distances from the rear axle, nothing like what Nissan had quoted me. I built a tilt ramp and load tested it with 750kg and it never moved a millimeter. That ramp was used countless times, with a load of 248kgs (2 bikes) 350mm further out where they said 150kg was the nose limit for a towball. I don't have the Nissan now, so I'll build a tilt ramp for the rear of the 90, and I have no doubt it will carry the job off nicely

Your warranty is with the dealer you purchased them from. Not "their" supplier

I wouldn't fit Pro comps to a wheel barrow. For a gas charged emulsion damper they fail so easily, and so many to fail, it leads me to believe they are poorly built with even poorer materials. And after custom building, tunning and rebuilding suspension dampers for the last 19yrs fitted to everything from MTBs to Formula SAE race cars to Helicopers. I know what I'm talking about

It's a matter of choice I suppose. I wouldn't use a ramp for any of the above, (I'd just work on it on the floor) it's not nice having to bend backwards trying to get to a fuel tank, or anything else for that matter. In the end they both have their pro's an con's. Why not have both

True, but there is very little on the side of your average LR, and the need to remove axles is greater, I would go for the 2 post. Since they get in the way of the drive train less. If I had the money I would get the ones that sink in to the ground when not in use, then they are totally out of the way.

I don't see how you can. Lets face it if Fuel was a reasonable price we wouldn't be talking about using "other" Fuels. If in the interests of the forum, you beleive (as you do) it's moving away from the orinal question as a Mod you could open another thread and move the "wider issues" there

Maybe so however, there are Hectares upon Hectares of land in this country on "Set a Side" doing sweet FA, cost TAX payers Millions, to produce NIL. Now there's a thought

Pushed into a corner it's surprising what people will do. As for laws, there are more than enough to stop people from protesting whether it's with Lorries or Spoons. A gathering of more than 3 people is enough for the police to pull laws out of their hats to arrest/move you on.

I couldn't agree more with what you have said. We are a country of complainers, unwilling to do anything but whine. Today's, protests are a case in point. It's no good a few trucks here and there slowing the traffic down, it needs to be nationwide. As for the world running out of oil. Ha! There's more Oil stuck in worked Oil fields then we have ever taken out. The problem is once the pressure is lost it costs too much to get it out, however once the price of Oil reached 100USD per barrel, it becomes economic to use other means to extract this unpressurised oil. OPEC are the ones setting the amounts they allow on to the world markets, which in turn dictates the market price. The price of a litre of Petrol in Saudi is around 0.07USD yes that's 7cents. Meanwhile I beleive none of the oil the we produce goes into Petrol/Diesel production as it's too higher grade, however we produce more than we currently would consume. It's about time we told them to pi55 off and relied on our own reserves, until we can figure out cost effective ways of retrieving the rest of this "lost" oil.

I take it that's inc VAT

There's a lot WE can do. A fully supported fuel boycott, and a fully supported can't afford to go to work days. The Gov would soon do something.

smo, where did you purchase the oil from. Cheers

I mixed a small amount of PURA and Diesel in a transparent container to see how easily it mixed by just been poured together, I found it mixed very well. So just fire the Rape Seed into the tank and then fill up with Diesel

Rape Seed is your best, I buy mine from Tescos, I find them to be the cheapest for oil, the brand is called PURA. Unfortunately it has gone from 53ppl to 107ppl in less than 4 months. However it is still the cheapest by 10-15ppl. A bit of a pain it been in 1 ltr botlles but like I said, better in my pocket... Get the kids to fill the tank for you, any stillage isn't going to hurt anything

I'd rather have the hassle of emptying 1ltr bottles than give this Government another 1p in bloody TAX

Yes. Yes. Yes I have a 300tdi and drove 258miles to the inlaws and 258 miles back home on nothing BUT Veg oil at xmas. It ran like a train. Currently running 70/30 mix

What face would you need to machine. Luckly TIG welding isn't a problem, it's my day job

well it was worth a thought I suppose. Now the thread has moved on to extended sumps for transfer boxes, would it not be easier and cheaper to modify a standard plate.

I understand what you are saying, about the lack of design within the LT230, and one LR make is nothing more than a splash type pump. The primary purpose of mine, would be to cool the oil, however depending on where I fit the return I could maximise the "splash" effect.

Western; That's the reason for fitting an external pump (ebay item# 270235102497), as for oil there are new blends, (for want of a better description) of oils that cover the requirements of both ATF and EP90. Besides the external pump can more than cope with a higher viscosoty oil oil. Silvio; I have seen these before. There is one that even has a built-in pump. Please keep the suggesstions/comments coming

After my newly rebuilt R380 Gearbox threw a bearing, more than likley due to excesive heat. I'm fitting an external Oil cooler, this then got me thinking about using the same type of Oil (pref Syn) in both the Gearbox (R380) and Transfer (LT230) Boxes. Since refitting the gearbox I have noticed both get hot even under light load. If I can run the same oil I could then modify the transfer box so as both boxes were connected via an external Electric Oil pump, a proper Oil filter and Cooler, enabling both boxes to stay cool and clean. Has anyone heard of this been done, and if so what type of oil would you suggest is used.

They are High Tensile. The correct ones (UNF) are only around 50p each inc Loc nut

Never seen the need for one, I refitted both props to my 90 last night in under 1/2hr with a Ring and open ended spanner. And lets face it, how often do you take the Props off.