Shox Dr

Ciderman. I have on doubt it can build a good strong cage, but as others had said, the qty varies. When will you find this out, something I'm not willing to try. each to their own.

Thanks, I thought thats was how it would be done.

Puiwit. I like the look of your Cage. How does the rear hoop connect to the Cross Member. The diagonal brace in the back does it connect to the rear hoop or the Cross Member, any chance of more pictures. Thanks

Thanks for the Linky, and sorry for hijacking the thread, interesting all the same, and important when someone is choosing a Rollcage. I know what my choice is

I don't suppose you have a link to the MSA required spec's for Rollcages do you, thanks

Thanks for the imformation. I'll be sticking with CFS 3NBK. As for Blueband it's Pipe, NOT tube. That's why it collapses it's not even normalised. If anyone uses that for a Rollcage then I wouldn't even sit in the vehicle, never mind pay for one

I didn't say I was building Roll Cages out of CFS360NBK. I said I built a Tube Bender to build them. I know it's Hydraulic tube, I would usually use CFS3NBK, I bought it because it is more than enough to cope with the stress of a frame, and it can be bent into tighter radius. I asked what the spec's of Blueband is, and if another post(here) on this site is to be believed then its Boiler tube EN10219, and I wouldn't use that for a clothes pole, as for Clubman 500 is also is a budget material only available up to 30mm dia and that is not big enough. Where as CFS 3NBK and CFS 5NBK is available in a far greater selection of Dia's and Wall thicknesses Here is a link to the people I deal with, I think you will find all the information you need there Meanwhile if you could supply links to specs or supply BS/ EN codes for Clubman and Blueband I would be grateful

Pardon my ignorance, what grade is Blueband, I never heard of it. I use CFS360BNK tubing myself, built a tube bender at the beginning of the yr to bend tube for Motorcycles and rollcages, it'll bend up to 2.5" Picture shows bender with 1.250" tubing

Before you spend your hard earned, you need to find out what the ratio of the box is, Disco's had 1:1410 fitted as well. If the ratio label is no longer there, you can look up the ratio on Ashcrofts site. http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/part_8.html#pa1 I have a 1:122 fitted toa 300tdi with 265/70 16 and it's fine

I've just reread you question and what you need is a captive nut, such as I suggested in my first post, these are also called lug nuts, or Anchor Nuts used in the Aviation industry. Rivnuts are good for putting a female thread into a void or thin metal where you only have access to the face side.

Rivnuts are good, but don't hold up well to constant use. If possible I would fit a metal strip with nuts welded to the backside.

I'd be sat down when you call for prices I've a feeling you'll put up with the old ones

here http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/part_8.html#pa1

ashcroft transmissions site has a lookup chart, based on the serial number

I did exactly what Western has said. The rad mounts are easy, just cut off and weld back on. For the engine mounts I used the measurement out of the LR manual, and then "dry" fitted the engine and gearbox as one unit with the old engine mounts installed on the engine, using the Gearbox mounts as a known referance point. just to make sure the dims from the manual where correct, tacked the engine mounts in place removed the engine/gearbox and welded up the engine mounts. Job done 1st pic should show engine on hoist with mounts fitted to block just before I "dry" fitted it in the chassis 2nd shows rad mounts in place

Engine and Radiator Mounts, I used one to rebuild my 300tdi last yr.

I waited, and waited for a VDO to come up on fleabay, for the price I was prepared to pay, in the end I paid 15quid for a brand new VDO unit. You know it's worth the wait, its not like the worlds going to end if you don't have one tomorrow is it

Easy to do, like others have said, fit the rubber to the glass, then either very strong string, or better still multicore wire around the outside, lots of lube (squeezy liquid in water is good) and off you go. It's also handy to have a rubber mallet, blunt blade screw driver and a blunt oring pick, or hook. Someone on the outside pushing the window on to the frame, and someone inside pulling the wire/string. It also helps if the rubber is very warm, so stick it in a bucket of hot water first, and do it on a hot/warm day if you can

2nd that one, used a ****part , lasted about 10 months, had to strip the drivers side out and TIG welded the rod back onto the wheel, as the splines that connected them had worn away.

very easy, take a wire from the alternator (W) ISTR, power from a live and its done, you'll need to flick a few mini buttons on the back of the gauge, but its not hard

I mate of mine builds exhaust systems for the minis he also builds, he uses 316L grade. The tube he uses is a common size for the dairy Industry so is not too expensive, you can by loads of different Dia and Degrees of Bend, I have some on order to build a system that exits just behind the NS door on my 90, thought the wheel arch panel. Here is a link to a Co that supplies stock bends and lengths as well as custom requirements. http://www.ojzengineering.co.uk/page.php?page=100

This is taken from an American welding forum I read. Here is the link to the orginal thread; http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=20984&page=2 Stainless steels go through some changes when heated up to temps between 800-1600°F. Being this is a part of turbocharger, I'm going to assume that it gets at least this hot. If you used a low carbon grade of tubing and filler, you should be alright. The changes I referred to are in part driven by the presence of carbon in the steel. No carbon = no changes. The bad news, and the thing I don't like about using Stainless in exhaust systems upstream from the catalytic converter(where temps are very high), is that the exhaust gas stream is full of carbon(CO, CO2, and a soup of partially burned hydrocarbons). There's also a lot of water vapor. If the steel spends a prolonged period of time in the critical temperature range, the carbon in the exhaust gas will slowly move into the steel. This in turn will degrade it's corrosion resistance. Combine this with heat and water vapor and you'll see corrosion of the stainless. Generally speaking this corrosion is widespread and progresses slowly from the inside out; so that most people are satisfied with the lifespan of the components. But weld them incorrectly, and you can see much more rapid failures. Everything you've done looks good to me, so I don't see you having any problems. I'm assuming from what you've said that you don't have any sugaring on the back sides of the welds. This would be the best indicator that you could have durability troubles with the weldments. If you do see cracking, and you didn't go looking for low carbon tubing or filler, try switching to low carbon grades. I'm confident you'll have better luck with these. There's a whole lot of other factors that influence how fast this corrosion can occur. Better grades of stainless hold out longer(300 series are good), but a lot of the OEM and mass produced aftermarket stainless exhaust components are 409SS; which is a poor man's grade of stainless. It's cheap, because it's got barely enough chromium in it to be called stainless steel. The 304 you're using is much better than 409. But if you need more longevity you could look at using 316SS, or on of the better Ferritic grades like 436SS or 446SS. These grades are better for high temp corrosion, but will be much more expensive. I don't know if these are available in the right size tubing either... The other factor that's important is that if you heat the stainless up above 1600°F, but don't melt it, you can actually reverse some of the degradation. This is dragging on, so I'll skip the explanation for why. What's important to know is that holding temps between 800-1600°F for extended periods of time, and introducing carbon, will hurt the material. How much damage and how long to failure is a function of time, temp, and carbon availability.

I would have to disagree there, I have 3 T/boxes sat here and none have crossed drilled gears in them

I would say a total waste of time and money. Gears are just like Chains and Sprockets, you ALWAYS change them as a pair, otherwsie the old part will wear the new part in no time.

Bit late on that one Jim, I've already bought a new starter motor, but it as it only me 60quid and as brushes in the old starter were next to nonexistent I can live with it. Live and learn eh