Shox Dr

i don't intend on doing anymore repairs for a long long long time

Sweet Harley, a bit different to the Fatboy I have in the shed waiting on an Edelbrock 1550 kit. should give me 120+ for both BHP & Torque As for the chassis. I went a different route, i bought a new OEM chassis and then plated the x-member, dumb irons and outriggers, and then welded up all the holes, leaving the larger loom holes to inject waxoly I then riveted a plate over the hole so I could inspect if needed in the future. I've pressure tested it and it's totally sealed. 5 Coats of Micaceous Iron Oxide, 4 Coats of Stone chip and then Dinol'd

Use Goodyear MTRs myself. Definitely OUT

There's an recon engine Co in Hull, very good name, very good engines, most of the time. However unless you know to ask for the oil galleries to be cleaned they don't do it. Anything, and I mean anything goes wrong and guess what they'll put it down to

It's the transfer gears you need to change in the transfer box to change the ratio. Not hard at all. You will need to get a new crush tube to get the correct preload on the new transfer gears, but other then that easy as. I was going to do this myself as I had a 1:1.410 box and wanted a 1.1.222. Luckly I found a 1:1.222 on ebay for less than the 235quid it wpould have cost for the transfer gears. I rebuilt the 1:1.222 and kept the 1:1.140 just in case it's too leggy

I've just rebuilt all 4 calipers on my 90. I started out with a kit from Britpart or should that be Britpart. I managed to flatten the first 4. Got hold of a set of OEM ones and they were worlds apart in quality. I used a large socket and a swift belt with a hammer, and all but one slid in, then installed the piston.

Thnaks for that, I'd just come off shift and wasn't exactly awake

Thanks for the replies. I havn't got the sender yet. What I need is the temp, the fan should turn on at. The link only gives the part numbers relating to temps.

Hi I've fitted an electrical fan out of a Mondeo to my 300tdi Defender 90 Can anyone advise of the correct Temp sender value. Sender is fitted to the return from the rad Cheers

I have just rebuilt an R380 and was told there are on gaskets, so... What G/box do you have and What gaskets did you get ie where do they fit,

You won't find any gaskets on a defender gearbox. They don't have any, you use gasket sealant to mate the cases. Same goes for the sump

TD5 Alternator part# ERR 6999 Anyone know if it will if a 300tdi Cheers

Be very careful, from where you get one, the heat from the Galv process can buckle the bulkhead badly. I saw same at Billing and they looked like they had been run over with a tank. They must use a Jig to stop this from happening

The tension on the ratchet can be set, it is in effect a torque setting, if you were using these a Certificated build (Aviation etc) they would check to make sure they are set at the correct pressure/torque. In other words wind it up a bit

Well Im glad i suggested using cable ties Because if I had not the error of my ways would nt have been pionted out. I was going to use brakets but saw the idea somewhere and thought that will "Do", How right I was So off with the cable ties and on with some good brackets, something that I should had done in the first place

Also if they were any good they would still be fitted to new vehicles

Yes, in a word. Viscous fans waste alot of power, using fuel in the process, slow down the engine getting to temp along with the heater taking longer to heat the cabin. Not to mention the noise

I've just fitted a fan out of a Ford. £15 from the scrapyard. See this tread http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=15857 on how to fit it. I used big zip ties through the rad to hold it on, doesn't move a bit. To do this thread a zip tie through the rad from the front, in line with a slot you have made in the fan cowling. then using another tie, pull the tight, cut off the waste. DO this in all 4 corners and 2 either side in the middle. job done. Is it strong enough, well some of the aftermarket manufacturers use a similar fixing

Out of interest what is the correct temp the sensor needs to be, when fitting an electric fan

It matters not from where the transfer box came from. Disco's can have the same ratio other models If you are lucky a sticker next to the PTO outup plate will asdivse of the box ratio List of Serial numbers and corresponding Ratios All stock LT 230"s have a low ratio of 3.321, the following list refers to the high range ratio. 12D = 1.667 LT 230R 13D = 1.410 LT 230R 14D = 1.003 LT 230R 15D = 1.192 LT 230R 20D = 1.667 (2.5 N/A 110), 22D = 1.410 (all 4Cyl 90/110 bar above), 25D = 1.410 (V8 110 LT 85), 26D = 1.003 (RR Classic 3 speed auto), 27D = 1.192 (early RR Classic), 28D = 1.222 (RR and Disco I), 29D = 1.192 (V8 90 LT 85), 32D = 1.222 34D = 1.410 (2.0 Disco I), 36D = 1.211 38D = 1.211 40D = 1.211 (NAS/Japan 90&Disco), 41D = 1.211 (Disco II, diff lock stud), 42D = 1.211 (Disco II, diff lock stud), 43D = 1.410 (90/110 TD5), 57D = 1.410 (90/110 TD5), 61D = 1.211, 62D = 1.211, 68D = 1.211, 69D = 1.211, 70D = 1.211 (Disco II, no diff lock), LT 230 Transfer case comparisons 1.003 > 1.222 = 17.92% Drop 1.003 > 1.410 = 28.86% Drop 1.003 > 1.667 = 39.83% Drop 1.222 > 1.003 = 21.80% Raise 1.222 > 1.410 = 13.33% Drop 1.222 > 1.667 = 26.70% Drop 1.410 > 1.003 = 40.57% Raise 1.410 > 1.222 = 15.38% Raise 1.410 > 1.667 = 15.41% Drop 1.667 > 1.003 = 66.20% Raise 1.667 > 1.222 = 36.41% Raise 1.667 > 1.410 = 18.22% Raise For those considering a ratio change the following may prove useful. MPH per 1000 rpm = 2.976D/ MTR