o_teunico

I couldn´t attend, so have not seen the real thing, just the pics that a member from the local 4x4 club sent me. For me they seem the the type of self tappers used in steel roofs for industrial buildings, those that have a rubber seal on them.

Hi all, Last weekend at a trialling event there was a buggy with this beadlocking system. Has somebody tested this personally?

Here in Lugo there is a Perkins prima powered Santana. Owner is extreamly happy. Problem is that today parts are difficult to obtain. I was thinking in a simple system. In fact just a tank with air at 10bar connected to a valve rated to 0.9 to 1 bar (100HP with that?) in the manifold. When switched whe will need to close the intake so the air will not go to the atmosphere through the snorkle. 25 litre tank will last about 30 seconds of "power". I have read that the Bosch VE pump is automatically adjusted according to manifold pressure. I have also seen an electric turbo in a Santana 88". Suposed to give an extra 7HP. Worked well.

Thanks! 33" tyres make the BW too high geared. My friend is also a classic car rally driver (Ford Escort Mk1) and is interested in a box that cam be converted to RWD for drifting :-o Manual locking ability is also good when blowing halfshafts.

Hi all, A friend has upgraded the rear axle of his 3.5 V8 injected Rangie to a Disco 300Tdi rear axle. Next upgrade is going to be a Defender 1.41 LT230 to replace the BW. Whe know that the front propshaft will need shortening, but we have three other questions. -Will the speedo cable fit the LT? -Do we need the gearbox crossmember from the donnor Defender or will the Rangie one be OK? -Disco lever linkage is needed or is there a way of adapting the Defender linkage to RR lever layout? Thanks!

Poor halfshafts!

Hi! The 2.25 diesel in my Series is quite healthy and feels more powerfull than the one of our previous 88. But some more HP will be handy, and better MPG will also be something desirable. A Land Rover Tdi without turbo, that is, a Di seems the simplest option. I have new exhaust and I´m going to rebuild the radiator, and both could be reused with the Di. 75 to 80 HP is what a Di delivers. Perfect for the Series chassis and brakes. In very steep climbs or when overtaking something more than the 80 HP could make the difference. And here is the vapour build...a tank containing compressed air will "supercharge" the engine for a few seconds and recover all the Tdi power. Sound like a good idea? I heard some time ago about a Ford pickup that used a similar system, boosting the engine on demand with freezed air, previously cooled with the A/C.

I suspect that they are NLA or only on special order, because they don´t appear at the shop. See page 5 of the PDF application guide (bottom left on KAM web)

All the Santana engines I´ve seen started with an "E" (all diesel, never seen a petrol one by myself).

KAM is making Stage One shafts for 23 spline diff. KAM #211 and #212.

Wellcome fron Spain! Nice to see the fórum growing day by day.

That "cut to fit" feature is what I was looking for! Will search for them as an option for the future. It will be certainly cheaper than obtaining engineers approval for a Series V/coiler front axle swap.

Thanks for the offer! I´m going to maintain the vehicle bone stock until next MoT, but will consider it in the next months if you still have it. Is it a 10 spline unit?

Don't know really what to do! This week local breaker has revived another defender (fire damage in engine bay) and two crashed discos. Keeping with rover parts is certainly easier, but the ISUZU is so tempting...

Complete engines are readily available, and parts are easy to obtain through the net. The 5 speed Santanas had 3.54 diffs. Mine, at some stage of it´s life, was downgraded to 4.7s. Not good considering that the LT230 I have is 1.667. 1:1 with 4.7 and isuzu box will be ideal for 32" tyres. As said, the welded slip joint + FTC5090 solution has been used successfully in the past. I will take the measuring tape to the local scrapyard to see how log a the Trooper and Frontera boxes are.

Those fuel consumption figures are great! My idea was sourcing a 4bd1 plus MAU5 gearbox and tranferbox, and then adapt it's slip joint to run a divorced LT230. That way I will have a good engine and double low box for a reasonable price. Engine is short (24") but I still need to know how long is the box to see if it will fit in the 88.

Hi all, I´m considering an engine swap for my 88. The Isuzu 2.8 Tdi 4jb1T is one of the options, along with Land Rover´s own Tdi and Di. The Isuzu conversion seems quite popular, so, any real life experiences with this engine in a Series? Is it better than the Rover Tdi? How much mpg can I expect? Is best the Trooper unit or should I go for the Frontera one? Thanks for the advice!

No Salisburies in Spain...Santana used 10 spline Rover axle even in 109 tow/recovery trucks and forward controls. Later six cylinders used the ENV type. I have one of those, but with no shafts.

Thanks for the info! AEU2522 CV (pattern) are cheap, unfortunstelly stage one shafts are pricey as gold.

Not a lot of torque...standard 2.25 diesel Thought about FWD, but UJ are not really designed for that. Change down and lock a wheel...didn´t realize that

Hi all, With the 88 "nearly" completed, I´m now thinking about the first mods to do. Diff lockers where not in the list because, even the cheaper ones, exceed my budget...but then I remembered that the Lincoln Locker is there! As you will know, this locking "mechanism" takes it´s name from the welding equipment company Lincoln, and is the number one option among redneck rock crawlers. It´s just a matter of welding the sun gears to the carrier. Simple, robust and effective...but locked 100% of the time. I will be doing about 400 to 500km on tarmac per week, so here is the idea: fit a freewheeling hub to the rear short shaft and use it on tarmac as a one wheel drive. Very light off road will be three wheel drive and, locking the hub, I will have 4x4 with "locked" rear axle. Taking apart the fact that welding your diff may not be 100% legal, is this option something feasable? Typical Lincoln Locker systems are used on tarmac apparently without problems in the US, but they have beef shafts and I have 10 splines...

I have been testing the switch. Label is fadded, but it reads AM??874. It has six terminals. E1, E2 and 4 are connected betwen them. 1 and 3 are connected between them. 2 is independent. Moving the switch doesn´t change this.

Some more pics.

Hi all, I have allready modified my series wings to accept the headlight level motors from a 1999MY td5 Defender (Wipac). Unfortunatelly I have not been able to locate the wiring diagram for connecting them, and the 2002MY wiring diagram does not match the switch and motors I have. Any help? I will also need to know where to locate the connectors for the motors. Thanks