landy_andy
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Posts posted by landy_andy
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What engine code is on the VIN number?
Marc,
PM me your VIN number, I'll decode it for you.... lets see what you actually have.....
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If the vehicle is shipped to the US without V5 but a "purchase" letter and the correct VIN and no engine would this work? Or would I need another S1 engine to be added?
Marc.
Hi Marc,
I think that you really need to seek legal advise on this from a US lawyer that has (recent) experience in the importing of LR's or maybe one of the reputable companies that are not having issues with their vehicles.... as a first step join the US Defender forum http://www.defendersource.com/ there are a couple of threads on there regards this and the US guys can give you some good advise.
From what you say about it's history, in my opinion you might be better off selling in the UK, buy a truck that's legit & bring that with you if you have the time frame. If not, sell it, take the proceeds & the savings from not shipping it over & by a truck already in the US or get one imported by a company that's got good recent track record.
I know it's not what you want to hear but I'd hate to see a posting 18mths down the road that your truck had been seized & was heading for the crusher
Best of luck !
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Great,
I am considering emigrating to the US and want to take my V8 Series 1 with me.
So as the US is the home of customising I will have have to remove the engine first as the rest is OK?
Marc.
If you decode the VIN what does it tell you regards engine etc, if it say's a 2.0L petrol & you have a RV8 in there, I'd suspect you'll have an issue. Vehicle must match VIN.... eg, a rebuilt ex-MOD 110 3 door tlit, can't be rebuilt as a 110 5 door station wagon as it now doesn't match the original VIN..... thus VIN tampering.
And that's why I posted this thread..... best of luck !
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I would guess that they would prefer people import a standard (ie. likely knackered at that age in the UK climate) 25-year-old Land Rover and then have it re-built state-side - mainly as it's a lot easier to control things (mods etc.) that way and additionally it's a little better for their economy and business like ECR who make a killing satisfying the yanks' need for Defenders. They cite "protecting the citizens of the US from dangerous vehicles" as the justification in the press release, but given that A. it's an incredibly small import market they're dealing with and B. they're saying they would rather people drive Land Rovers that have had 25 years in the British climate than effectively brand new ones, I find safety hard to believe as the reasoning behind it.
There's no reference to any actual definition of what is allowed or not allowed in the official press release, so I wouldn't take hearsay off internet forums as gospel with regard to that. Until someone gets the position from NHTSA or the CBP in the states then we don't know what would get rejected and what wouldn't.
It's real simple, there making a point that you don't mess with the US Gov't.... common sense doesn't come into it at all.... with regards to what would/would not get rejected here is a real contradiction, a ex-MOD '84 110 Tithanous rebuild was let in last week as it's VIN decode matched the vehicle, a 3 door 110 hard top with a 2.5NAD.... but the hard top is a FG Wolf unit of newer (pre 25yr old) vintage but it looks like a 25yr old squaddie bashed truck.... go figure ?
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Assuming of course they haven't a galvanised chassis
Seems strange they don't like the galv, or is it just the fact the vin is or isn't on it that makes it tampering?
It's the fact that the chassis doesn't have the 'from factory' VIN number stamped on it. If you stamp the correct VIN # onto a new galv chassis it seen as VIN tampering, if you galv the old chassis & the VIN # is still visable then you might get away with that but to date no-one has come forward to say that a rebuild with that has been let in by CBP.
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so I don't understand why the US DOT are being so stuffy with imported vehicles. I agree they are trying to prevent illegal & stolen vehicles entering the US but maybe they should start at home with a annual road worthiness check.
It's all about making a point..... a while ago the Japanese imports were targeted.....
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as of next year older 200TDI's will become exportable to the US.
And you can imagine what a premium they'll fetch.... ker-ching !
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Thought this would be of interest to some forum members.... US boarder agency currently has a big crackdown on all non-original LR's and they are being seized at port of entry & held due to VIN fraud, eg, if an ex-mil 1984 3 door 110 comes in with anything but a 2.5NAD and 3 doors and doesn't look like a squaddie bashed 110 then it'll be seized. Then the importer has no leg to stand on if the vehicle spec as per the VIN doesn't physically match what the vehicle is, it'll either be crushed or has to be returned to the shipping port at the importers expense. Legal action then may be taken against the importer for fraud..... there are stories all over the US boards of guys loosing their trucks in the past few weeks along with some allegations of UK companies being less than honest about what the truck started life as before it was shipped out....
BTW, Even if the VIN matches the truck, just having a new replacement galv'd chassis is deemed to be VIN tampering as it's non-original & it will be seized...... say good buy to all those quick sales to rich US collectors.
Link to CBP news bulletin regards LR's - http://www.cbp.gov/x...al/04152013.xml
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Also, the hole through these is 16mm where JJ's seem to be 7/16" / 5/8" / 9/16" - so, other than the 5/8" you would need some 'modification' doing.
You have a point there.... maybe spin up some tube bungs as well to go with them (with flats for a spanner).... and ya got a winner
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I don't think I'll post them on Pirate - least not until they are real. Even with a yellow star - I think I'll be flamed on some account!
Never.... get flamed on Pirate.... whatever next
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I'd figured on an M27 x 1.5mm pitch thread on the boss as it's a (fairly) standard, easy to obtain size for taps, lock nuts etc.
Hi Si,
If you kept the thread imperial then anyone that has already got links with JJ's in them could use yours.... plenty of opportunity for sales here in NA
Post it up on D90 & Pirate & see what the response is.....
BTW, your X-spring cans make good bump stop targets with a plate welded to the top of them too..... yes, there is a poly stop to go on there too
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Hmm, interesting. I'm not very good with electronics, but would it work to have a few transistors in there so the "dirty" signal doesn't go into the ECU?
It's not that simple, controlling back EMF in this type of application can be complex, as complex as the ecu it's self. That's why EDIS is such a simple solution, all the hard work has been done by Ford to produce a module that manages the high voltage & spikes and just needs 2 low voltage signals to work (PIP & SAW). Remember (correct me if I'm wrong) but the MS was never designed as a fuel & spark, just fuel.... some bright 'sparks' decided to add in the extra circuits to control coil packs due to the open source code & circuits that B&G used, same for EDIS.
Also take into account how may RV8's are running around with MS & EDIS on them these days... personally I'd stick with it cause there is plenty of support on-line if you get stuck seting it up, go down the route of COP and you may soon be SOL....
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I went with option 1 for a couple of reasons, EDIS is designed to be under bonnet mounted & I wanted the connections to the coil packs to be kept short, also putting the fuses & relays outside the enclosure makes for easy checking/replacement if required.
Don't forget dust can be as harmful to the electronics as much as water, more so if the board & connector is caked in dust & then gets damp. Ideal environment for tracking to happen, conformal coating will reduce this problem but the DB37 could be an issue after extensive use. That's one of the main reasons I went for the Amphanol connectors as in summer our forest roads are just wicked for dust.... you have to leave about a km between vehicles so the following one can see, otherwise your driving blind
This is mine as it stands now, relays & fuses in holders from VWP.... and they'll be mounted to the top of the enclosure with a small bracket. I'll be mounting the whole assy on top of the seatbox with some small rubber isolators to reduce vibration a bit.
Overkill..... yup.... but when your 200km up a forest road, out of cell service and having issues.... I don't want it to be due to MS.... the grizzly bears & cougers are bad enough...
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It would be easy to pay far more for the case than the board you are protecting.
With todays SMD technology & 'pick and spit' assembly..... that's pritty much the 'case' anyway.....
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Everyone moans about the 37 pin connector - when your building the boards could you not just solder in a load of cable tails for connecting to more suitable sockets?
Yes.... but then how do you remove the board from the box without having to remove the IP rated chassis sockets from the enclosure. Just use the DB37 for what it really is.... a medium density multiway connector.
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May be it is time to ditch the DB37 connector?
I don't think that B&G, when they first designed the board really envisioned the ECU being taken for a swim in a 4x4.....
Having spent quite allot of time working in food manufacturing & process plant, getting a truly sealed dis-connectable transition out a control box normally comes down to some form of heavy duty IP rated chassis connector be it round or rectangular. Personally I think the pre-assembled DB37 looms that you can buy are worth the money, crimped pins are fine if there assembled using a commercial strip & crimp machine (that has regular pull-off quality checks done on it). Use one as a basis for an IP rated enclosure with some form of chassis connector and you can't go too far wrong.
Just my 2c (p)
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Hi Nige,
I looked & looked..... purchased a few different connectors but couldn't come up with a IP rated DB37 that would work with the existing board and not having it wired to an intermediate connector. So, I just went with the 'box' in a 'box' approach using the round mil-spec Amphenols. Not the cheapest but the DB connectors were never really intended for IP rated use....
I got all my bits from Digikey & Mouser Electronics..... have the part #'s if you want them for a similar build.
Cheers,
Andy
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Interesting build on Pirate for this type of setup.... http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/land-rover/961915-d90-spidertrax-9-609-build.html
Ummm....... Spidertrax axles
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Go join Pirate 4x4 & read up on linking your landy.... huge amount of info on there.... just watch out for being flamed if you post....
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Just about got the MS unit ready for install, just the relay box to mount now and make a bracket to fit it onto the top of the seatbox behind my auto shifter. Have allowed for fan control but will prob be going for a VC fan as not 100% confident that twin electrics will do the job when it gets over 30 deg C here in summer.....
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Slightly off topic, but nice build. Love the chassis roll cage mounts, just like mine as nowhere sells them, so I too make my own!
Steve
Thanks Steve, shipping is a killer to Canada from the UK.... esp for lumps of steel..... that's why I made my own rear winch tray, cage mounts etc..... was also easier to 4 link the back end too, rather than do a custom 'A' frame.... sorry Bingy, thread hijack off
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Landyandy surley you can get a nice Ali rad with proper mounted fans from summit for a good price?
Not that are a drop in fit & have the integral oil coolers with BSP fittings. Did get a quote from Ron Davis radiators for a NAS spec one & it's alot more than Allisport.
Linky to my build if you want a look - http://www.d-90.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36827
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Rebuilds looking good.... what rad & fan(s) are you going to use ?
I'm halfway through my D90 rebuild & am at the point that I need to decide between a mechanical VC fan or electrics (am running MS to on a 3.9, will be a 4.6 laters). Was going to get an Allisport rad but am not 100% confident that the twin electrics will do the job in summer here (BC, Canada)..... been reading up over the weekend & found that some owners in Florida are getting good results with the Flex-a-lite 220 and if you go for a slightly wider rad the 292 will fit on..... thoughts ?
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Also, I noticed that the ringgear is not quite 9", but more like 8.8". The americans use a 9" or even a 10" ringgear (wich measured actually 9.5").
That cannot have helped strength, but I presume this is a compromise for it to fit to a landrover casing.
The first failure was actually the diff journal shearing clean in half, from the pictures. I didn't think it would break there.
Anyway, it was a good test for the Force 9, I am not here to slag of the design, I think it is a good product for the price (about half that of a spidertrax setup), so still credit were credit is due. Once the problems are sorted, it will be a good option.
Daan
Here are a couple of pic's off my local off-roading forum of a buggy being built in a guys garage for local comps..... front & rear axles are 14 bolt with 40 spline shafts & h/d parts.... as Daan noted above you can't expect an axle built into a LR banjo to perform like these. Doesn't mean there no good.... there always have to be compromises, can't fit a quart into a pint pot
Thinking of selling that 25yr old truck to the US.... think again
in International Forum
Posted
Honestly, you really need to talk to someone state side who's got the experience in importing LR's, from what you say the 'VIN' won't even be recognised by the CBP system as a legit LR one.... even for a S1. Sorry, can't be of any more help.... they might let it go as a 'historic/classic', with it being a S1..... maybe ?
Personally I'd give Doug from Dividing Creek Imports a call, http://www.dividingcreekimports.com/index.html he's got lots of experience & is well respected in the US LR world.