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landy_andy

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Posts posted by landy_andy

  1. After some research have decided to get a couple of the 12” stroke Billy’s for the front. This should give the extra clearance on full stuff and be more than enough droop to have the springs almost off the lower relocation cone. In addition will be adding some limit straps front & rear to protect the shocks at maximum articulation. Lower cones need a remake as they snag the spring but that can wait until I swap the shocks out. Extended brake lines measured & ordered as they’ll run down the links to prevent snagging on brush.

  2. 3 hours ago, landroversforever said:

    Is that an inch of shaft showing with the axle level against the bumpstop pads? As you’ll use a bit more shaft with articulation?

    Yup, that’s why I want to swap out the dampers for some slightly shorter stroke ones. Although if you look at the picture above at full flex I’m beyond coil bound with the damper fully stroked out so it’ll be close. Will be fine for the time being, just have to bear it in mind when I finally get it out on the trails. Some nice remote res. dampers with adjustable bump would be ideal.

    • Like 1
  3. After a couple of hours work we have a nicely sectioned sump pan. Taking it off just below the old oil level sensor boss leaves just a small gap in places to be filled. Next a quick media blast & then off the neighbour for welding up.  Oil pickup to section now and it’ll soon be back on. Definitely not worth spending $400 on a custom sump !

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  4. 1 hour ago, landroversforever said:

    Have you got quite a large scrub radius? I’m on 14” travel shocks (and seemingly more axle travel than your picture) with 36.25” (37” quoted) treps. The clear at full articulation and full standard steering lock for a 265/75R16. Biggest issue was how much the tyre swung back/forth when I mocked it up on spacers. With the swivel spaced 60mm instead of at the wheel face, it removed 18mm of swing rear wards to the outrigger. 
     

     

    Yup, the Stazworks rims are heavily offset so that doesn’t help either along with the extra 3” of wheel track on these axles. Ideally I’d like to get the rims recentered but that’d probably cost more than a set of new Trail Ready alloy beadlocks. As you can imagine, the bank manager would not be impressed if I scrapped the rims…. Down the road I may have to anyway as finding 15” tires is getting harder without having to pay for shipping out the US.

    I have not maxed out the shocks this time, keeping things flexy but at 80-90% for reliability out in the bush. Would suck to bust something 50 miles from the nearest real road… it’s way to heavy to have it heli-recovered like we do with sleds in winter.

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  5. Time to get stuffed… literally… checking the clearance for my 35’s at full articulation & stuff. Full left is good, full right is getting into the front out riggers & sliders.

    Will this be an issue… maybe or not, how often are you at full stuff & hard over… just something to remember when we’re finally out in her. Gotta admit the 16” of x-axle articulation is impressive 👍

     

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  6. Got the truck sitting on the front axle under it’s own weight. Really happy how flat the lower links are, should give a nice ride for a flex rock crawler. Got a few things to change… need a lower profile sump than the stock ‘truck’ one, frame side panhard bracket needs a redesign.

    Need to look at the front drive shaft, currently it’ll bind if I droop out at about 3/4 of the old setup. This is mostly due to the lower position of the pinion on the 9” diffs and I messed up on the axle build. Someone forgot to reverse the measurement of the pinion centre line from the back axle drawing so it now sits ~2” to the driver’s side and not inline with the t’case output flange. Way too late to fix that now, so we’ll make the best of it.

    Thinking it’ll need some of the Tom Woods extra wide angle 1310 U joints to fix it & we’ll hopefully get the extra droop back, time will tell.

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    • Like 2
  7. Picked up some 1.5” x 1/4” wall DOM and made up the panhard & drag links. Got them mocked up to work on the axle end mounting bracket. The relationship between them is best I can get so we’ll just have to see how the bump steer works out. Once the mount is made we can cycle the suspension to see if we have any binding, lots of parts wanting to live in the same space.

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    • Like 1
  8. 4 hours ago, simonr said:

    I detect Solidworks 🙂

    I'm guessing you use it professionally - unusual to see a fully defined sketch!  If you do a lot of Sheet Metal or Weldments, find me on

    You're making a beautiful job of it (the build).  I've seen Hydro Boost brakes - but never seen someone adapt one to a Land Rover. 

    Si

    Nope… just a hobbyist, you missed the link Si.

    There are a few kits around for LR’s but I wasn’t going to pay what they wanted for them. I only paid $110cdn (70 quid) for the take-off booster shipped and the cut parts were another $40 as I had 2 sets made. Biggest investment are the Earls fittings etc. Going to be interesting to see how it all performs once complete.

    Thanks for the compliment, it’s been a very long haul… only seems like yesterday when I did the last LRO show with Dave Marsh before we emigrated… that was in ‘07 ☹️

    • Like 1
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