Keeper96

Thanks gazzar! looks good! is that heat shrink over your brake lines? thanks

Hello, has anyone tried the buzzweld galv in one paint? if so how did they find it and any pitfalls to watch out for? thanks

Morning all, I have a 300tdi conversion in my 90 but it’s currently off the road so I’m looking at giving it some tlc. it runs okay and there’s nothing actually wrong other than a feeling of being slightly down on power compared to my other 300 and sounding slightly rougher at idle. id like to give it a little overhaul without going crazy and was thinking of a set of rings and big end bearings, check the valve seats etc. While the head is off and measure the bores with the pistons out, obviously of anything is obviously off it will be a full rebuild or sorting the issues but would I notice any improvement simply in doing rings and big ends and having the injectors and fuel pump refurbished? jamie

Hello all I’ve just been replacing the bearings in an R reg discovery 300tdi. I’ve had to replace the stub axle and bearing carrier as they where also trashed. The vehicle is field run about so the owner didn’t want to buy any parts and had me stripping parts from an old 10 spline axle. So I have built up the 10 spline stub axle and bearing carrier onto the discovery with all the bearings and seals from the 10 spline. The length looks good as the halfshaft is protruding by approximately 10mm when pulled out and pushes in as far as the circlip. However I now can’t get the drive flange to fit but I’m not sure where the issue is, Mainly because I’m at work now and haven’t got the car to look at. Does anyone know what part I may need or is it a case of I need a discovery stub axle?

Thanks for the offer mark but I’ve started buying the parts needed to rebuild mine. Cheers

Cheers guys, the beating seats look pretty good, I can vaguely remember seeing a company selling fully built main shafts with everything assembled on it already a while ago but can’t for the life of me find it again, can anyone point me in the right direction? J

To be honest even a knackered one would probably be better than mine, both shafts are totally ruined along with the majority of the gears so not really a candidate for repair whereas most second hand boxes will probably just require bearings and maybe 1-2 other bits and pieces (hopefully) 😂😂

Hello, I’ve had a post in the wanted Section for ages and had no luck, plus tried loads of various internet searches but no luck! Im looking for a second hand lt76 for a series 3, I know you can buy recon boxes but I can’t stretch to the £7-800 necessary. if anyone knows of any possible sources in the north east or Cumbria then that would be great! Cheers, Jamie

Ohh happy days 😂😂 i should learn to never trust the word or work of someone selling “an unfinished project” thanks jamie

That’s what I really hope. Heres a picture of the clutch anyway to see what you lads think Sorry it’s not great but it’s just a generic one from then I pulled the engine out a while ago

I guys as some of you may have seen I have a series 2a that I'm trying to fix up. the latest issue is that the clutch pedal doesn't return when pressed down and has to be pulled back up, there is no pressure on the pedal on the way up or down, and the system has been bled. I'm starting to think that possibly the wrong clutch has been fitted and the clutch fork isn't against the clutch plate which could cause these symptoms? the engine is 2.25 diesel from a series 3, do series 3 and series 2 have different clutches? thanks jamie

Hi Lofi, that would be great if you could do that? Cheers

Hi folks I’m refitting the steering system to my series 3 rebuild and was wandering if people have any clues on how to ensure everything is fitted straight ahead? Such as where should the bottom and top arm on the steering relay point when in the straight ahead position? Amd any other tips are appreciated. Jamie

Thanks guys, I totally forgot turners even existed! Is there anything else you would be doing once it’s on bits or just wait and see depending on what I find? Jamie

Hi guys I’ve got my 90 off the road for some repairs to get it through an mot buts going to be off for about a year so I’m planning on doing some bigger jobs while I’m on. The engine is good but it’s just got a general air of old age so I’m planning on giving it some tlc without going to a full rebuild, I’m thinking new big end shells, piston ring and a head gasket plus the usual seals etc. Can anyone recommend good suppliers of bearings or should I just go for genuine items seeing as they’re known to last? Jamie

That’s a definite possibility, at least it’s easy enough to drop the tank and then I can Tip it upside down and make sure it’s empty

The fuel filler isn’t attached as the pipe has a hole in, the inlet on the tank is taped over so that should t be leaking, it’s only been filled once from the same station that all of our cars are filled from. Mom going to drop the tank this weekend and have a good look at it. Cheers

Hi guys I’ve got a 2a that I’m putting back on the road but the fuel system is full of water again. Prior to filling up with fuel there was water in the bottom of the tank, I just assumed it was from sitting for a while, so I removed the bung and drained the tank of about 3 litres of water and a tiny bit of diesel, I put 10 litres of diesel in and bled the engine and had it running. I had to remove the engine to sort a clutch issue but On bleeding the system I found everything full of water again. Firstly is there a proper procedure to ensure the tank is fully drained secondly are there baffles in these tanks? Thanks Jamie

Do you have any pictures of how you routed it? I’m away from the car at the moment so haven’t had a chance to get a look and work it out. Jamie

Hi guys as you may have seen I’ve got 2a I’m currently getting back on the road. The PO swapped the petrol for a 2.25 diesel but never finished. Ive gotten the engine running but I’m struggling to find a way to improvise a foot throttle as I don’t have the bits needed to go from the bulkhead bar to the injection pump or from the throttle pedal to the bar. Does anyone have any ideas on how to improvise a solution? Jamie

Yeah sorry for the double post 😂 ive wired it up as Jordan has said with a separate start button Jamie

In fairness it was in place but it didn’t have any thing actually locking the

After further investigating it wouldn’t bleed as the bloke we bought it from had the pipes the wrong way round. Got it all bled up and realised the pin that connects the slave to the rod inside the box had snapped 😬

Yeah the bleed is at the top, I’ll get my dad to come out tonight and have a good go at it with 2 of us

I’d assume they’re all in but I’ll have a better look later on j