bushwhacker

Help I have 2 VM engines can anyone please explain to me what to look for to tell which is the 2.4 and which is the 2.5? One is attached to a four speed box in a Lightweight, would it have needed a conversion plate to do this? This engine is knackerd. Will the other VM have the exact same bolt configuration to bolt onto the four speed box if one engine is a 2.4 and one is a 2.5? Should the VM engines have separate intercoolers ala 200tdi? The other is on the floor waiting on me getting my finger out. Thanks

Is the heater box easy to remove. My first speed on the blower has stopped working. I noticed 2 green/purple tracer wires have come off a soldered connection from inside the smaller box at the side of the main box. Can it be opened to re-solder the wire on as I think this maybe the trouble.? Is it doable by not taking the heater box off? Any thoughts help would be much appreciated

I often wondered what that ment. And now I know. I thought it was a LR vehicle, trim, part, duffer danggler or something else ?

Thank you

I decided to replace the gear bracket that retains the springs to stop the lever going in to rev and not first. When I got to the gear box tunnel it had a large rubber boot with a metal ring and self tappers securing it. When it is off should the top of the gear box where the lever goes in to it have another rubber boot on it, and likewise the hi/lo lever. It looks like they should? Is the large rubber boot and ring a retro type fix if the gear box has been out. Any info would be appreciated.

My 1990 Disco has a leak that drips on to the drivers seat it also leaks in the rear on to the seat. What is the best sealer to seal up the 2 sunrooves and the roof rail mounts area, I think these are the suspect areas . Is it possible to do away with the double sunrooves or would it be more bother than its worth. Has any one pulled the head lining material (just the cloth) out and painted the what ever is left? Any help would be most welcome.

Thanks for the pointers guys Mark

Hi not sure if this is the correct area, but can anyone advise on an engine removal. I know all wires, pipes cables hoses should be labelled. Also bonnet taken off, gear, box exhaust and radiator what else ? I need the correct sequence to actully what should be done after the above. Hoping the above is somewhere near were I should be. The vehicle is a 1984 Lightweight LHD with a VM td I have another VM td to go in. Got it as I was hoping to make it easier to put back in, big question mark looming. I have use of a hoist, axle stands and tools. Any help and advise would be very much appreciated. Mark

Yes they were, I`m a tit.

Wow impressive Series Land Rover I like it. Is it on parabolics or something else ? What engine is it running on ? Any lockers ? What tyre size do you have on those strange wheels ? Sorry about all the questions. ps watch out you dont knock Ross Kemp over.

Thanks

Thanks, I have had a look but dont know what I am looking at. In the Haynes it looks like the front goes to the front and the rear goes to the rear from m/c to failure valve. Can failure valve be done away with? PDWA whats that? Thanks

I have posted at the end of kitekracys post can someone have a look and guide me in the right direction pleeeeeeeeeeeease Thanks.

I have been having brake problems on my S 2ish just as the mot looms and have read over these posts. It has 11 inch fronts, dual circuit with a servo. Have I got it right in that the 5 way valve can be done away with. And keep the servo, the front and rear brake pipes can be piped straight from the master cylinder , front hole on the m/c into a Tee for the front brakes and back hole for the rear to the axle and Tee d for each side of the rear. My m/c is plumbed as follows 2 outlets front 1 goes to the back of the 5 way and rear goes to the front. My 5 way vavle is plumbed as follows, top 2 outlets as above the bottom 2 front goes to passenger side front brake and the rear goes to the rear brakes. The middle outlet goes to the drivers side front. This does not seem right to me having read the posts and looked at the Haynes. I did replace some b/pipes and removed shoes and cleaned all of the back plates up, on the front there is only one way for the shoes to go back on. The only bits I could not fix were the steady posts. Are these essential I hope this reads ok. Any help and advise would be most welcome.

HELP My 2 ish is up for mot my problem is I can not get the brakes up to scratch. On the 1st pedal press it goes to the floor on the 2nd it is a bit better and on the 3rd it is ok. Is it still air in the system? I had it striped down to replace brake pipes and brake shoes there is a servo on it I have used the two person method one depressing the pedal the other on the bleeders. I have used the pressurised method also a Gunison thing that works of a wheel at 20 psi. I have done these a fair amount of times and no joy. Where have I gone wrong? And is there any other method? Thanks Mark

Yes that will happen soon. I get most of my parts from the Belfast Land Rover Centre which is about 45 minutes away and then time talking and waffling it tends to eat into a day so I wait until I need a few parts and bring a flask and sarnies with me. A great day out is had.

Rusty_wingnut do a search with hybrid from hell, or tracking as the search. I have just been out for a longer run in the 110 after tracking the steering with string and a couple of spanners. And I must say it now feels 99.9% better

Thanks guys, some good info and thoughts.

My rule of thumb says its a Land Rover, and 1cm is neither here nor there when you are driving down the road in it. Or through a field. Drive it dont stand and look at it.

I called it soot as it was like black powder/dust coming out when I put the air line to the filter. What do you call the material or substance you get in the exhaust if a motor is running rich? This is what I had in the filter, soot. Mark

So is a sumo bar better than full axle protection. I ask this as I had to remove my Southdown axle guard on my 110 to do the tracking. I have always liked the protection it offers but on my Disco 1 I might try something different any thoughts would be most helpful. Thanks Mark

1 or 2 degees and 1 millimetre on a Land Rover your having a laugh guys ar,nt ya? Well ar,nt ya? Go to the trouble to even use such a precise instrument as a piece of string and it still comes down to 1/2 degrees or 1mm? ---- sake I was nearly going to use bad talk there. Mark

Oh yes! says the dog on telly I am my avatar. Mark

What is the setting? What is what setting? I have no idea but I lined the front wheels so as the string touched rear and front of the tires at the centreish. Its a Land Rover! Mark

I don't think it matters but the string needs to touch the middle of the wheel / tire at the hub so I brought it down to the rear wheel at this level and then to the front wheel at this level as well. I could see the front wheel was toe out as the string only touched the front of the front tire. Have a read at the thread by Hybid From Hell on tracking. He does it with pictures. Mark