Stevie D
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Posts posted by Stevie D
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Excellent timing - I'll be doing mine at the weekend cheers!
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To claify this - for anybody else....
There is a difference!
Disco 1 with ABS uses the older style rako bush type swivel as the top pin / assy is the difference The 'newer' taper roller bearing type doesn't fit 'apparently'. The pics of the ones above are both ABS type swivels, not sure why / how the machining is there / what its for.
All together and working.
Asked the local indy LR specialist that I trust and he's confirmed the difference.
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There's some reading here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=82694
I think from 1994 it's only the swivel pin and cv joint that makes the setup ABS or not
Thanks Dailysleaze
I thought that as well until I seen the machining at the bottom of the inside of the ball lol... I'll try it and see if it all fits together or not - I can always strip my spare axle and see what that's like inside too / salvage another chrome ball. It's not to clear
I'm fairly sure I bought the teflon part off here as an abs one off a defender - there's no obvious part nos on the balls themselves - only the odd casting mark?
I had found that post - but it does mention the disco's being different - I'll try to measure the internal volume / diamteres as well.
Cheers Steve
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Currently rebuilding a front axle for my MY96 300tdi Disco - with ABS.
I've got these two swivels....
The one on the left with the machining on the bottom is an original chrome ABS one that came on the truck - the other side is rusted beyond use, so was going to replace with the ptfe coated one on the right until I noticed the difference?
Can it be used or is that what differentiates between the two types?
Cheers Steve
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thanks:-)
Buy one and play with it. If you can breadboard you can do this.
Look at the fritzing too.
Someone in Finland is using a Mega as a diesel ecu. They're very versatile.
I think I will - looks interesting from the reckless engineers link - I'll dowload the fritzing tool too :-)
Like the idea - maybe expand it to keep an eye on the EGT as well:-)
Mike it was that post that got me thinking a year or two back.
Cheers - some more ideas to think about!
Steve
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You won't need helicoils - just drill the heads off and wind the remains out with a stud extractor or a pair of tight vice grips!
Steve
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Was thinking along similar line myself for the 300tdi after nearly cooking an engine.
Haven't got the know how for this modern tech stuff lol - could solder up a bread board etc, but how does one start downloading the programme to the Arduino chip / controller?
Well done btw!
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The guy's near Langtoft, North of Peterborough if that helps!
Happy to provide beer token etc for out of pocket expenses
Steve
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Just drilled mine out last week - they're soft as cheese so it doesn't matter if you get the correct torx socket for it they just ring out lol..... It's a T40 from memory if you want to try it.
AFAIK the only difference with the ABS and non version is the serated edge pick up so don't see why it shouldn't work - mine has abs unfortunately...
Steve
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As the topic says interested in an item off ebay that I'd need collected in person and then allow a courier to collect form the forum member - sticking it in a black bin bag or whatever?
I'd arrange courier etc.
Waiting on guy to get back to me with address details.
Not too big - It'll go in the boot of a normal car 1000 x 750mm and flat ;-)
Anybody - please pm me to avoid unnecessary forum bandwidth :-)
Many Thanks, Steve
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Mine doesn't have any captive nuts on the chassis. There's a pair of locking nuts - the crimped steel type rather than nylocks. It is much easier to do with the bumber off, but getting it off might be an hours work lol...
Theyr're either m10 or m12 from memory, make sure you get high tensile ones - make sure they have at least an 8.8 stamped on the head. Seen your ' I'm desperate' post on the local forum a few days after the fact - or I could have brought yo a few bolts - take it you got home ok with the big ratchet straps?
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AFAIK they are there for isolation of those road noise's and vibrations as you say! If they were necessary LR would have fitted them to the front as well - like the TD5 disco has? Maybe when new it might have mad a bit of difference - measured with some technical kit - 20 years on I doubt it lol...
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Good news on the job and karma front!
Seems a shame to butcher the 3 door if it's in good order. Would it not be work livig with the 3 door for a whilst to adopt your needs if required?
Dimesionally I beleive the bodies are the same - door frames, sills, etc, but having never stripped a 3 door alu skin off I don't know how far the frame parts sharing has gone - quite far if normal landrover stuff is used as the baseline I'm sure.
The B posts are different and there's some extra meatal . inner skins where the rear doors would be - here's a link to a partially dismantled 3 door undergoing sill repairs on another forum.... http://forum.difflock.com/viewtopic.php?t=12757
I do know that the rear qtr windows are different - there's two part nos for the seals - so would have to assume that the outer skins at least are different - inner trims different in the very rear / boot.
Don't think it would be impossible, once the outer rear qtr is off it would be measure, measure, measure, cut and weld 'B' pillars etc if required. Having the donor is a bonus, just do 1 side at a time - don't know how the spanish vehicle registration system nor mot would accept it?
Good luck. Steve
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I quite agree, one test a year is quite enough.
Good idea to have a completely independent organisation do the testing, though Maverik is right, far too organised for a UK government to adopt, it makes much more sense to blunder on with the broken system we already have.
That's how they do it here in N Ireland under govt control - 15mins in and out typically, big shed, 8 lanes, doors at both ends, and full of time served btec mechanics. No work, just test.
110's are good at keeping you busy ... hat list of advisories is fairly minor lol.
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Good luck with it lol...
As Al and the rest of the guys have said, strip it out and cut out all the rust, prime, paint, wax, seal as much as you can. YRM are the job ok, but it will add up. Some of the perts can be fabbed up by a competant sheet metal man for very little £ if you know of one locally.
Steve
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Think the locks are slightly different, the panel lines will also be slightly different - but not sure how easy they would be to make fit - I've never tried tbh. Interested to know how you get on.
Steve
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Both lights should normally (driving) be out!
Battery light will go out once the alternator is cahrging - typically anything above 13.5v up to maybe 14.5v.
The ABS one should go out if not a few seconds after starting the engine after the self test mode has finished, or once you drive above 5mph / kph afaik. If there's a fault stored it 'may' need reset. There's the diy blink test, to find out what the fault is. You need to search the interweb for the instructions and possibly the wabco manual for the list of fault codes.
Steve
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They're a bit anal on interpreting some of the rules here too - government run / controlled test centres for the mot / psv rather than indy garages reporting to vosa as in the rest of the uk. Very much depends on what testers mood / frame of mind is on the day. Fortunalley not just as bad yet as some of the euro / tuv based tests. Last time with a Landy the guy insisited that the 110 need to pay extra / was in the wrong class as it had more than 8 seats fitted lol...
I'm hoping to go down the HD route rather than 2" random spring co ltd lift - my 110 csw drove much better when I returned it to stock after 5 odd years of 2" lift. I have a set of what I beleieve are the HD rear springs and will try the 'old' back ones in the front ina few weeks time hopefully.
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From memory they are different top / bottom.
Certainly to bottom one has the 'pop' rivet holes - that wouldn't stop me trying - once the rivet heads are removed - use your weapon of choice here - the breakaway center bit is hard so a grinder might be a better option than a drill.
It's an easy swap so long as you take the spare wheel off the door first and have somebody / something to support the door.
Steve
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Think they are the same frame / surround / switches as a 300tdi - and therefore is just a nut and bolt job to change the winder to a motor - not sure how the electonics work though - 300 has a stand alone ecu - is the td5 done through the bcu?
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All sorted now cheers - most of it seems to be m10 x 1.
Waiting for the kunifer piper /cupro nickel stuff - delayed in the snow lol...
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Don't use a solvent based glue - toluene etc (uhu / etc) superglue is an acrolate(SP) unless it's designed for the backing / vinyl - I'm sure one of the grown ups will be along soon with a proper answer - but I'm fairly sure it needs to be a synthetic polymer based adhesive you'll need. Sorry that's the limit of my knowledge - not my area of expertise in adhesives ;-)
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late 95 /96 MY 300tdi disco.
I'm replumbing all the hydraulics (well everything under the truck from the master cyl / bias valve back)after a mild resto.
As the title says - are these more likely to be Metric as I assume or a mix? I know I've defender front calipers - the vented sort so think these are m10 x 1 - I've got a pair of the factory pipes for these, think the new ggodridge flexis are metric what about the back calipers or is it just suck it and see as I'm making up pipes checking as I go along? Suppose I should buy a mix of 3/16" unions both metric m10 x 1 & unf.
What about pipe - copper or kunifer, whta lasts best on a general purpose truck - with a bit of off roading and road work towing trailers about etc. I find the copper very soft - but has the advantage of being easily shaped and bent / malipulated into position.
Many thanks, Steve
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Tractor tyres are an interesting fit too, though NVH is a bit of an issue...
Do you guys have a road long enough to get up enough speed lol?
Did consider them for the 'farm' 90
The "Pass the Bucket" 4x4 For Sale on Ebay Thread
in International Forum
Posted
Here you go....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Defender-90-Challenge-comp-Truck-off-road-/111161701539?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item19e1c0f4a3