Stevie D

It's screwed on with self tappers down the door shut, accross the top about level with the gutter but on the inside, and bolted with 6mm screws along the waistline - again inside behind the trim, you'll need to take the the plastic c pillar finisher off - 7mm socket I think from the inside through the pillar - again behind the trim, then grind / cut / whatever 3 rivets off behind it, AND all the joints are bonded with black sickaflex type sealant. Go to the scrappy and take one off, then you have one to fix yours and know how it comes off - it'll take a good couple of hours to get off wihout causing any damage. Steve

If the 98 is a late 300 tdi box then it shpoild bolt straight in - if it's from an early td5 then it's not a straight swat as the bell housings and inpur shafts are different.

From memory the Defender didn't have the dampener gizmo fitted, I don't think you'll notice the difference unless your foot is on the clutch pedal / riding the clutch. May even make it easier to bleed the thing!

Nice one - a common problem! I think there's somebody selling an aftermarket rubber / plastic replacement now, but it might cost more than it's worth to get it to SA?

I've stripped the std disco half leather seats before but never full leather ones , yours look like RR shape! Anything is possible with a bit of ingenuity...

You can't beat the simplicity of the Defender wiring - I'm amazed at how much copper is in a Disco lol... according to the diagram the number plate lamp is on the lhs / near side circuit! Don't think the lower spec vehicles had the courtesy / red lamp in the trailing edge of the doors? It was a range rover thing afaik although the holes are all there for them, even the rear tailgate.... Enjoy the read....

www.landy.ee/manuals/electricity/Disco_Elec.Troubleshooting%20Manual%20-%20LRL0077ENG%20(1997).pdf Had difficulty pasting the link so you'll probably have to cut and past - maybe an adult can fix it lol... I have a different version on DVD with the different years, but I've left it elsewhere. Steve

Might not be fited - rave shows it on the 95 300tdi disco, fed from the multi function unti via a (UW) blue with white wire off pin 5 of the main lighting switch, and a feed off fuse no 8 off the right hand side lamp circuit - if it's fitted there should be 2 relays on the passenger footwell, and the resistor on the lhs of the bulkhead engine side, differs slightly on the later models... If you need it I may be able to post diagram later when I get home? Steve

Think that's for the little motor for the headlight leveling if fitted! Just ignore it for now - there will be the same on the other side. Back to your problem - must be a dead short somewhere if it's popping the fuse so quickly - have you done the same exersize for the front of the vehicle - quite possible water ingress behind the dash, the relays are mostly in the kick panels, or above the passenger footwell (sorry don't recall which one you'd be looking for - rave manual will tell you) or maybe the switch? The loom for the back runs accross the dash to the passenger side a post and up along the roof / gutter line under the head cloth. It's held in place with duct tape and metal tabs - can often rub through - think there may be a multiplug to disconnect and isolate that section of the loom in the passenger footwell about level with the bottom of the dash. I think the head lamp looms exit both sides of the bulkhead just above the inner guard. Get your hands on the electrical troubleshooting manual - invauable for this sor of thing as it shows where all the relays, multiplugs, earths are for each circuit. Steve

Thanks for the reply Andy 908mm wide seems to be the one i need with a quick measure with the tape rule in between showers - unfortunaley I need a std drawer for the back of the Disco, longline is too long - good luck with the sale! Steve

I need the dimensions for the top of a set of the mobile storage solutions drawers if somebody could measure for me please, just the top chequered plate so I can screw down the side bins in the boot of the disco, allowing room for the big drawer when I get one at the rite price lol. Many thanks Steve

Muck off! Sorry I'll get my coat... Think there's already a bicycle product with a similar play on words anyways lol Steve

Don't forget the seat belt mounts, Nigel has mentioned the back ones, there's also a pair for the front seats, handbrake can also hang up, other than that you've got it covered.

Paper /masking tape trick works well with a jubilee clip as a bit of a hard(er) guide too. Steve

Nice idea... A few less places to leak lol... Think they are a few inches longer - the side widows are anyway. Then you'd need the edge of the original roof recessed to accept the bonded window or it would sit on top? Steve

It won't start without the fob (matched to the alarm ecu) - it has an imobiliser... Steve

Looking Good!

OK cheers folks - I'll bite the bullet and strip part of the 'spare' back axle over the weekend to see what the back sensors are.

I'll second Diablo's comment about Robert's (Ghound's) work - he's resonably local to me, I've seen his work first hand both finished and in progress and is first rate - doesn't take shortcuts, and has the right skills and attitude towards 'cosmetic' grading and pricing. Haven't seen Ashtree's stuff in person. Steve

Argo shield / cougar or whatever the non boc / air products equivilent is defenatley better to work with and gives a cleaner weld with less splatter. As linked above by Boris there's quite a few heated debates over on the mig welding forum and elsewhere on the merits of both. Personally I use my pure c02 'motor factors supplied - cost £20 for the cyclinder years back' as a backup for when my 'borrowed' boc bottle is empty - like it is at the moment. I couldn't justify the cost of a contract bottle of argon / co2 from the likes of boc or air products anymore - have done in the past. I know there are other legitamit or dodgy refil alternatives now, but few and far between on this little island. I've an agreement that works for me most of the time - subject to availability of an exchange bottle. Steve

Apart from the part no STC 1749 & stc1750 , and what appears to be a merged wiring loom in throgh a piece of flexi conduit for the back pair is there any difference in the actual front and back sensors? My back ones are siezed in and will need a bit more than a tap to move them back into the proper position - I have a spare front set, so in the likely event that I damage the one or both of the back ones I was wanting to know if they are interchangeable? I can read the wabco part no off the front ones but not the back. Anybody ever changed them round or know if it's possible - otherwise I may just bite the bullet and spend a £100 odd quid on a new set / risk £25 for a chineese part off ebay? Cheers Steve

From Rave - Describes which calipers pistons do what... Brake calipers - front - (5) rear - (6) NOTE: To identify separate hydraulic circuits, they are referred to as HYDROSTATIC and POWER circuits. Power circuit - Consists of rear calipers and upper pistons in the front calipers, supplied by direct hydraulic power from power valve. Hydrostatic circuit - Lower pistons in the front calipers form this circuit, supplied with hydraulic energy from servo cylinders comprising a combination of master this is the bleed order for an ABS equiped truck... 5. Bleed four front caliper lower (hydrostatic) bleed screws in the conventional manner. In the order: outer bleed screw driver’s side, opposite caliper outer bleed screw, inner bleed screw, inner bleed screw driver’s side. Depress brake pedal slowly and progressively, locking bleed screw at bottom of each stroke. 6. Bleed hydraulic pump - open bleed screw on pump and allow fluid to flow until clear of air bubbles. Do not use bleed bottle, use a clean absorbant cloth to prevent fluid spillage. And for an non abs truck... The hydraulic system comprises two completely independent circuits. The rear calipers and lower pistons in the front calipers form the secondary circuit, while upper pistons in the front calipers form the primary circuit. The following procedure covers bleeding complete system, but it is permissible to bleed one circuit only if disconnection is limited to that circuit. Bleeding will be assisted if engine is run or a vacuum supply is connected to servo. WARNING: If engine is running during brake bleeding process ensure that neutral or park is selected in main gearbox and that park brake is applied. When bleeding any part of secondary circuit, almost full brake pedal travel is available. When bleeding primary circuit only, brake pedal travel will be restricted to approximately half. NOTE: When bleeding system commence with caliper furthest from master cylinder. Finally tighten bleed screws to 10 Nm. Bleeding 1. Fill fluid reservoir with correct grade of fluid. See LUBRICANTS, FLUIDS AND CAPACITIES, Information, Recommended Lubricants and Fluids NOTE: Maintain correct fluid level throughout procedure of bleeding. 2. Connect bleed hose to bleed screw on rear caliper furthest from master cylinder. 3. Submerge free end of bleed hose in a container of clean brake fluid. 4. Loosen bleed screw 1/2-3/4 of a turn. 5. Operate brake pedal fully and allow to return. NOTE: Allow at least five seconds to elapse with foot right off pedal to ensure pistons fully return before operating pedal again. 6. Repeat 5 until fluid clear of air bubbles appears in container. Keeping pedal fully depressed, tighten bleed screw. 7. Remove bleed hose, replace dust cap on bleed screw. 8. Repeat 1 to 7 for other rear caliper. 9. Remove front wheel furthest from master cylinder 10. Connect a bleed hose to primary bleed screw on front caliper. 11. Connect a bleed hose to secondary bleed screw on same side of caliper as primary screw. 12. Repeat 3 to 7 for front caliper, bleeding two screws simultaneously. 13. Connect a bleed hose to other screw on front caliper furthest from master cylinder. 14. Repeat 3 to 7 for second secondary screw on front caliper. 15. Refit front wheel. 16. Repeat 9 to 15 for front caliper nearest master cylinder. It seems to illustrate the top outboard screw is the primary circuit (10) and the two 'front' mid posn screws as the secondary (11 & 13) Sorry it doesn't copy and past the illustrations. Now i'll erturn to my disco ABS search - if anybody knows how to fix my disco ABS I'll be gratefull lol. It's quite different. :-) Steve

Shocks might bottom out when suspension is dropped to the original height if under articulation etc - will bust the shock internally rendering it useless. Depends very much on your intended use - off road or just normal road driving - mind you that might not be that smooth either depending on the county council lol.... Take a shock off and measure the extended and compressed lengths. Is the Boge self leveling unit fitted / was it ever fitted (only csw had them afaik - but maybe not TD5's? Why do you want it back - are the springs done? Handling - they are much nicer at normal height. Steve

Lots being broken on Ebay would imagine you'd find one fairly local. I'd inspect the rest of the usual suspect areas for the dreaded tin worm first to ensure it's worth going to the effort to fix! Your looking for disco 1 300 series btw not '2' - that would be '99 -> i.e TD5

Like it! Was always my intention to do something similar with the 110 station wagon when I had it to replace the old VW Westy.... The Westfalia pop tops work in a similar fashion, front hinged with a fancy elevating hinge, but a bit further back to cater for the shape of the roof - easier on a defender tbh. Canvas was all the way round to eliminate drafts. Used two spring loaded folding arms at the back that locked in position at full elevation / over-centre fashion i.e 95 degrees. Canvas was stapled over a wooden batten rectangle at the top / bonded / to the underside of the roof section (fiberglass). Was simply attached under a alu extruded section screwed straight onto the original vehicle roof. Steve