ThreePointFive
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Posts posted by ThreePointFive
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the likelyness of gettin caught is so slim, just use them! turn them off if you hear the coppers!
and use codenames lol
Yeah, and this thread will be a fantastic bit of evidence to show intent and full knowledge that what you were doing is illegal.
Show some responsibility people...
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You don't state what you currently have so it's hard to say what would be better.
While not technically a swingaway carrier, the one I bought from Safariequip (made by WVA Holdings as far as I know) has been excellent in it's use. It opens with the rear door as any station wagon would benefit from. The only downside was that I should have gone for a galvanised finish, after two years the powder coating has just flaked off enough to warrant a wire brushing and a coat of hammerite. It is more expensive than a paddocks cheapy one but it is solidly built and has a hi jack bracket if you specify one.
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HI mate your floats are sticking just give the carb a tap with a hammer around the dashpot area The reason it stops at 3000rpm is your using fuel faster than it can supply it!
Yeah after tapping it as you say, it soon stopped dripping. Thanks!
Bish, the nuts aren't loose, tried tightening them up but they didn't move. I'm thinking the gasket is the problem, not sure.
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I started the car up as it's been sat for 4 weeks now, it idled very nicely for 5 minutes and then I noticed a strong smell of fuel. I changed the fuel filter this week so I looked there for a leak, but saw that under the car on the other side was a steady stream of petrol. It's coming from a pipe on the carbs, I think it's coming from the offside carb pipe but as thats under the one from the nearside, it could just have been dripped on. Any reason why it should be coming out of there? Never noticed it before so I'm fairly sure it's new.
The stream is steady at idle but decreases as the throttle is pressed and then stops around 3000rpm.
Also the rear axle is now leaking oil. I can't be sure but it looks like it's coming from a bolt on the diff nose quite high up. Any known issues with that or is this something new I've managed to discover...
Also the handbrake has managed to unfix itself despite being used once since I fixed it and it's been stood still since then...
Any help very gratefully received!
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I know what you're saying but with an axle having just gone pop I don't think I'm going to be able to spend that much on something when I have one that works on 99% of road situations, leaving it in gear is more effective anyway, and if the hill's really big then low 1st will hold it. The handbrake is now holding it on hills off road that it would have struggled to before.
I have noticed a drip of oil from the backplate though, so I'll be taking it apart again and sorting a new felt washer seal. Better to do it now than later, especially as I can't use the vehicle until the axle is done.
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At least that chrome crossmember and mudflap cover goes some way to making what's there look almost invisible in the pictures.
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Thanks a lot, that's the part I was looking for.
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Hi,
I'm looking for the part number of the flame trap on the off side rocker cover on my 3.5 V8 that has two pipes entering it, I've found the single one on the other side but not this one.
Cheers
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I think the soft A Bar type will fit, certainly mine always had a lot of room between it and the grille as it mounts to the front of the bumper, but if you are looking for genuine purposes of protection (ie - not for looks or to mount lights, as in my case) that will last more than once I'd look at something else, they are ok for knocks and resting against trees but for anything more you'll need better protection.
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After working well into the night yesturday, my handbrake now seems to be a lot better. There's a good amount of tension on the handbrake lever and it feels like it's actually holding the vehicle, though I need to test it on a proper gradient still.
I don't know what the original problem is, but seeing as it's fixed now with no new parts, is it possible that when that drum was frozen, the jolt of me driving it to release the brake could have knocked the rollers out of position? I'm thinking that they were getting caught somewhere and not letting the cable move properly, so when the handbrake was depressed it felt like the lever could move further into released position than the cable.
Thanks to everyone for your help with this, it was one of the worst job's i've had to do on the car to date.
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That's what I thought, they insist that FRC3602 is what they gave me, they have 'prop shaft bolts' and 'flange bolts' so I think the mix up was between these two, both on order and I'm getting another set from a specialist bolt supplier in case they supply the wrong ones again. I've got to take the whole lot apart again now, I can't believe how long this work is taking to do.
That's a good solution to the filling problem, will have to try that.
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Those are 5mm or so shorter than the old ones which I can't reuse. They're genuine parts and the only ones they offered me, is there more than one part number for those bolts?
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I've removed the flange on the prop to get the prop bolts out as they were damaged, requiring a new felt seal as well. I've fitted the new ones back in but they appear to be about 5mm shorter than the originals. I've used genuine parts so they should be alright, but this is what they look like with everything back together:
Clearly they're a few mms from protruding out of the nut, is this enough to keep the prop on or should I be worried? I don't want to have to check how tight they are every day... I've done them up as tight as I can.
But apart from this, everything is reassembled with the rollers correctly installed and the lever has some resistance again, but as I had to partly drain the transfer box to get the flange off without it draining out that way I can't test it. Any ideas how to refill a Tbox without a pump?
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You're very, very kind for the offer Ralph but I'm not here this weekend, which is part of the problem of finding time in the next few weeks! I'm going to head down to Mr Milemarker's if I can't sort it myself. Tomorrow is the last day I'll have to work on it for a while so I'll have to see if I can get it done then, if not it's back on with the prop and a quick trip down to Devon.
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Haha I like your thinking, but a missus isn't the problem - the lack of actual money to spend on the car really is!
Hopefully I'll be able to resolve this without spending money on it, I am sure if I try adjusting the cable properly I can get back the proper tension and make the handbrake work, if not then I actually give up trying to guess and I'm going to go to an adult who knows what they're doing. It's just a case of finding time and getting it done now.
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The 4x4 Adventures Daily Driver Challenge on the 29th of September, 2007 was my first proper off road event. Loads of encouragement, loads of help and advice, no one taking the mick out of a complete novice.
I'd waited 2 years looking for something even slightly like that, thinking the offroading scene was dead in the Southwest, with a rather dull drive round a farm track on ATs being my only previous off road experience. Then I found it and since then it's been pretty much an off road event of one kind of another every 2 months, brilliant stuff.
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I've set up the rollers facing the right way, the wrong way and nothing is making a big difference. The central part of the expander operated by the cable seems to lack full movement - how far should it be able to move? In released state it was flush with the front of the expander housing, now it's partly inside, and on full handbrake lever travel to the on position about 1/4 pokes out the rear of the backplate.
The linkage to the rod that controls its movement is very loose, it can be moved quite freely even when the handbrake is on, I would have expected it to be under strain of some kind, should it be?
Sorry for all the questions after the loads of help I've been given but nothing seems to be working so far. I've adjusted the shoes until they were binding, but there's still no resistance on the handbrake lever at all and wouldnt hold the car if it was put under load or release properly either.
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Thanks for the explanations, I think that it is part of the problem and I've tried it the wrong way so far, need to try it the correct way, but it wouldn't explain why the shoes weren't moving much before I took it apart. I've bought a new cable so I can eliminate it from the possible causes, and again the Haynes is useless for showing how it's attached. It's arrived as a straight bar, when mine curves 180 degrees on itself and to the back of the handbrake, is it meant to be bent into shape as it doesnt feel like it is designed to bend! I don't want to start bending it if it isn't meant to either.
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I was going to put in the initial post that I can't buy an X brake, I've just shelled out for a winch so my new toys budget is used up for the next six months at least. I do see the logic and I know it's got to be the best solution, but this problem isn't even related to the shoes themselves, which have plenty of 'tread' left. I think that replacing the cable would be the most inexpensive option to try even if it doesn't work, but any ideas as to why this would happen just after the frozen-on situation I found it in last month I'm all ears to.
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Hi all,
I'm having trouble with my handbrake in that it's not holding the vehicle since the problem of it being frozen last month and refusing to move. Since then, it's never held as strongly as before and the lever feels very slack and too easy to operate - like it's having little effect on the handbrake.
I've taken off the prop and the drum and to my surprise there was very little mud inside. With someone operating the lever, I can see that the shoes are adjusting tiny amounts and only on one side mostly. I've taken them off, pulled out the pistons and out fell the rollers. I cleaned them up, put it back together the best way I could and still nothing. How can I tell if the cable itself is stretched or at fault? It appears to be adjusting but the piston inside the centre of the expander doesn't look like it has full travel, released or engaged even though now the lever itself can be pulled fully upwards, something that was a real struggle previously.
It also doesn't feel as though the cable fully retracts when the lever is released, as it has some springy feeling as though the cable is still pulled out, if that makes sense. How far should the shoes move? Also, as they fell out before i was able to see how they were installed, how do the rollers fit on/around the pistons? There's a slot the same size of the length of the rollers which I thought they may fit into, but it's incredibly difficult to get them back into the expander like this.
The haynes doesn't show the expander taken apart to this level. Any thoughts on which part is more likely to be to blame? New expanders are near £50 so I'd rather not buy new parts if they're not definitely the cause.
Cheers
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Nah i don't usually take the wheels off to clean the 90 but I needed to check the brake pads and shoes all round and it was the perfect time to get at the bits you can't with them on. I'm not sure I would have noticed the crack if I hadn't. The tarp is on it's 3rd go there, I've filled a 50 litre tub already with the contents so far.
Thanks for all the advice, I'm going to check the oil in the diff and see if it too is emulsified, I'm hoping it isn't, then I'll just refit a new cap as you describe, thanks Ralph.
Cheers for the replies, very helpful
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Hi all,
I damaged my hub cap that has been showing signs of cracks for ages. I must have cracked it off road in the last few days as now I can see right into it, with what looks like emulsified oil/grease inside it.
As the chances of water and carp having gotten in there are pretty certain, what do I now need to do? I'm assuming it's a 'dont drive till sorted' issue?
I'm not a mechanic but I'm willing to learn, so any advice appreciated on what steps to take now and what parts are affected.
Cheers
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Something like a piece of common, a playingfield, moorland etc. Usually not where crops are being grown for example. It's based on historical evidence of a piece of ground having been used by someone other than the land owner for a period of something like 35 years. If you fence them to the existing rights of way before a submission of an application for another right of way is put in, it effectively means no more can be created outside of the boundary as there is no "right of way" to go elsewhere and crossing a boundary such a fence onto private ground is trespass, as little as that actually means in the law. That's what I picked up from my RoW work anyway, it was some years ago now so may be inaccurate.
If you can submit evidence that you've used a byway for the specified amount of time even in your vehicle, you could stop a BOAT (Byway Open To All Traffic) becoming a restricted byway (ie - no vehicular access) but I'm not sure it can reverse the restriction once it's changed status. The Trail Riders Federation put up a good fight even if apparently no one from the 4x4 community did around Somerset.
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Have you removed the top clamp or made it point horizontally when the jack is stood up by any chance?
RR front axle conversion
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
On fitting a '93 (I think) RRC axle to my 90, the trackrod from my 90 being fitted forced the tracking to go toe-in very severely due to the length of the rod, even with the TREs wound in as far as they would go to shorten its length as much as possible it was still toeing-in. I don't know if I should have asked this in the RR section, so apologies, but is the track rod on a RR shorter than that on a Defender? Has anyone else had this problem? What would be the correct part to fit?