ThreePointFive
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Posts posted by ThreePointFive
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All I could find in any shop I know of that might sell it was brush-on etch primer, from Mill Auto Supplies. I've near enough finished removing the paint from the wheels, and I started to apply the primer but it's bubbling around some areas, possibly where I couldn't remove all the old paint as it's too tight to get the wire brush into. I can't see any way of removing this paint, and I think it will ruin the finish of the wheels so I don't quite know how to remedy it.
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Just to set something straight, the Snatch isn't unarmoured, it's got the same level of protection as those vehicles used in NI (they're a development of the ones used by the NIPS if I remember correctly). You can open a whole can of worms on the subject, but when there are bombs used in Iraq (and so probably Afghanistan) capable of destroying the American main battle tank, something like a Snatch that's designed more for urban operations with small arms fire rather than explosions in mind (again, if I remember correctly, I know no more on the subject than anyone else) hasn't got much of a chance. It's not just the design of the Snatch land rover which is at fault, it's that until now the army didn't have the foresight to procure vehicles which are designed to be used where the Snatches aren't. That's why now much bigger 6x6 and 8x8 vehicles are coming into use, such as the Mastiff and the US Stryker.
At least that's my understanding of it, it's a highly emotive issue and I could be completely wrong, I hope I've not upset anyone with this and someone (one of the servicemen on the forum) can correct me if wrong.
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There was one up at Bristol airport during the terror alert last year if I remember rightly.
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Thanks for the replies. I don't have time or know of facilities to get them shot blasted, a wire brush on a drill is the best I can do.
I won't bother with the plastikote then, I'll go and buy proper etch primer.
Cheers for the link Les but it doesn't work, I'll google the name.
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Hi all, I'm respraying some 8 spokes and have been looking for etch primer, but can't find any at any of the DIY shops around. Where can you get it from? I bought Plastikote metal primer instead, will this be useless? The wheels are off the rims so I need to get a hard wearing finish that will not flake off under pressure washers, or stone chips. It's especially noticable as the rims used to be white underneath, though I am going to bare metal in a lot of places due to rust spots.
Is there any technique to doing wheels I should know of?
Cheers
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I have just taken the 90 for the first run since I did the brakes and while it can stop very well now, the rear drums are getting very hot. I only covered about a mile yet the outside of the drums are too hot to touch.
Refitting the new drums was a tight fit, they barely fitted over the shoes and so must be in contact with them constantly. There was no more adjustment in the adjuster or anywhere else that I could see, the pistons on the wheel cylinders were as far in as they'd go. Is there somewhere you can adjust the clearance other than the single adjuster on each back plate? Is it just a case of new shoes and new drums not being worn enough yet?
Last thing I want is a failure or for them to get so hot they cause a blowout or fire.
I've been put off doing anything brake related from now on, but I need to at least get this finished so answers urgently needed please.
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I find the biggest drawback to this search function is the lack of an ability to search for all words in the term. For example, brake drum shoes will return all results for brake, all results for drum, etc. Do a search for this and it is basically a list of every post made in the last few days!
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Can we use this for a caption competition?
This picture was taken at night.
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Pretty much sorted now, drums all back together and replaced the return springs just for good measure. Going to get the cylinders replaced at a later date, I don't have the equipment to do it here.
One question, there's a peg on the shoe and one opposite on the back plate. The return spring wouldn't fit into the notch on the peg on the shoe, as it fouled the adjuster. At the moment it's hooked onto the peg but the other side of the adjuster, nearer the shoe itself. It seems secure, but will the slightly different angle or fact it's not fixed in one place on the peg be an issue? Not sure how to sort it out if it has to be on that notch.
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I have done one side, I jacked up one side of the chassis and used an axle stand with a block of wood on it, then used the jack to lower the axle, spring poped out and new one in.
Out of interest, from reading the first posts it seems the advice is to lower the axle in one go, what that be with a trolley jack?
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The drum brakes... I may have sorted it but it's a lot cheaper to take the car.
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No longer about the dust hazards but I might get a reprimand for starting two threads about brakes in a week...
I have taken off the shoes on both sides and the shoes to the rear side of the car are both worn through to metal, while the front ones are much less worn.
I've fitted new shoes but now the drums won't fit over them, the pistons on the wheel cylinders are in as far as they will go and I can't see any other form of adjustment to make on it...
Under the seals of the cylinders some fluid was present, does this mean they are now beyond use?
Any help appreciated as the car is unusable if I can't get this sorted.
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Is the access suitable for normal cars? I may be forced to take my Peuget as the 90 is on axle stands.
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Yeah the hi-lift wasn't my prefered option... I don't like using it.
Axle stands it is, I don't have anything twine wise strong enough to compress the spring safely.
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I'm doing the rear springs on my car, I only have a bottle jack, axle stands and a hi-lift, I was planning on doing the job one side at a time rather than both. I want to support the chassis with the hi-lift on my rocksliders, and use the bottle jack to lower the axle onto the axle stand at its lowest setting. I think that will give me enough travel with the shock removed. Is there any saftey issue doing it this way or does it have to be done with both sides at the same time?
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It's not worth a new topic so I'll ask here:
One of the bolts on the bottom of the shoes holding the round plate on is either rounded out or stuck. What size are they? A 10mm spanner seems too big and 9mm is far too small. It may bwe that mine have just been abused by the last person to fit the brake shoes.
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I always check with my local LR dealer parts guy on prices before I buy the 3rd party stuff. Sometimes it's only a few quid more and well worth paying more for. However they do use the same suppliers for some parts so you can end up paying more.
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I'm looking for an alternative to Paddocks, the quality of some of the stuff they send is pretty poor, and they send the bare minimum of what you order. In particular I don't like the way if you buy brake pads, that's all you'll get. You'll need pad retaining pins and anti-rattle springs but they'll never supply any, and you have no right to argue because as the ad says: brake pads. No mention of any other small bits you'll definetly need...hard to think of examples but sending things without nuts and bolts because the car has the old ones, which are almost definetly rusty beyond use and probably shear as you're taking them off to fit the new part, isn't really on.
I think the problem is you can't tell who supplies which parts, I would use other sites but paddocks is usually £10+ cheaper, and if I'm buying the same part I can't afford to pay more just to make a point, I can't throw away money. If sites displayed who was supplying the part, I could see that it's not another britpart part. Then I would pay more! Problem is too many sites trying to make a bigger mark up on the same parts.
My point is, it's good to know who not to deal with and it seems like Craddocks is not the alternative I'm looking for!
Thanks for sharing your experience letsgetdirty.
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There are two brackets that bolt to the lashing point eyes, the seller must have had them or they wouldn't have been able to fit it. Have you tried asking them?
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Yeah it's on the to do list!
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Hi all,
I'm changing the rear shoes on my drum brakes as they are down to metal after being checked not so long ago (mud is suggested as likely cause). I've been reading the Haynes on doing it, and it makes a big fuss about asbestos hazard in the brake dust. How likely is it? I used to work at a Garage and not once did I see a technician use a dust mask when changing brakes. I would like to know how safe the job is or if there really is a hazard.
Also, when do you know the drum of the brake is mullered? Mine has been thoroughly scored by the pads and is now shiney, does this mean it's time for some new ones?
Cheers for any help.
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It's OK - the new viscose unit will be worn out by the time we have these ready!
Si
It's britpart so I think it'll be dead before next week.
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I was wondering how those were getting on Si, a great idea i think, an old merc i had ran one of these, very efficient.
is that a picture of the motor you are testing for your new truck as well? - looks a bit small!
Sam - you need a new viscous hub, when thats sorted you wont need anything else that will cope.
I've already got one on order, but having seen the above prototype I wish I'd waited now...
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Interesting to see the advice on Viscous fans, this confirms my decision to keep with the viscous as the replacement for the failed unit. If this isn't as effective as I am hoping, I plan on fitting an electric fan to the front of the radiator. No immediate plans for a winch mean plenty of space, but would this effect flow of air through the radiator adversely, or would the fan make up for this if there is any effect?
Etch Primer/Wheel painting
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
Ah good idea. I'm waiting for the primer to dry before I take it off again and have a go with the hot air gun. At least it's only the front of one rim so far, not too much time wasted.