deep

I stripped a drive flange on a diesel Series 3 many years ago and drove 200 miles home in "three-wheel-drive". It was quite horrible, with the car pulling and lurching all over the place. Plus it started making shocking noises from the front and I couldn't fix it because the half-shaft got stuck in the diff head. So, nah, not a good idea for a road car. However, it's a brilliant concept for the budget off-roader that only goes a little way on road but is mostly used off-road. Room for thought there. I also had a Series 3 with two free-wheeling hubs on the back (for towing on an A-frame). That didn't seem to misbehave when I had a little play in front-wheel drive. The idea could be plausible if you put something like a Stage One V8 front axle on, with those beefy CV joints? I drove a friend's Jeep Wrangle out of the bush once after it had blown a diff. We stripped enough out of the back end that it was effectively just trailing. That was heaps of fun! Though an irrelevant side-track...

Thanks so much, Sorren. It's what I wanted to hear. The budget is (over)blown for now but it's only a matter of time. I wouldn't consider the vehicle fully ready until I had axles I was happier with. I'm not a rip-and-bust driver but don't want to be too dainty with my driving!

Thanks Sorren. I've done some research and thinking about anti-wrap (actually, I've barely slept for thinking about it!) and believe I have a cunning enough plan that it will be worth a try. I take your point about doing both ends. I'm also considering fabricating swivelling shackle mounts. Those plus anti-wrap open the way for parabolic springs, sometime in the distant future. I am currently frustrated at the lack of time, grr, 'cos I really want to do all this stuff before my enthusiasm dries up. Anyway, it will probably take a week or three but I'll make more progress reports as it happens. The anti-wrap job is the most inspiring as everything else is to do with reliability and protection, whereas this is a genuine improvement to off-road ability. I'm sure I can get coiler Salisbury shafts without too much trouble. Are you saying they would fit a 24 spline Rover type axle? If they really did, with the appropriate drive flange, that would be brilliant 'cos I could get myself a 24 spline Eaton or True Trac for Christmas (True Trac comes under budget, Eaton not sure yet). I'd be as happy as a pig in poop if I could do that! Don

You can't keep it all! Timaru is a fair way away. Not really a small country sometimes.

It can be offensive to some people down this way to spend money when you can get by with fencing wire and duct tape! Though I have two friends who have done wonderful things to their "90s", aided by a larger budget (I say "90s" - one is a cut-down 110 and the other a Range Rover chassis chopped around to take a 90 body). Variety is one of the things that make Land Rovers so different, in a very good way.

Well, I've got one mint two door LWB side panel (the panel behind the door - is that what you meant?) and a few spare wings with at least some light fittings still attached. I don't think I've got any square surrounds spare (though I used to have one, maybe I should look harder!). Nothing in the way of a roof at all, sorry. I'll fossick through my stuff and bring up what I can. How are you off for fuel fillers, tail lights (non-chrome round type) and door hinges? I have plenty of those.

You ripper! I'll see if I can find anything interesting in my shed to bring up...

Thanks Sorren. I remember reading about your anti-wrap bar. It was that, plus some comments Bill Van Snorkle made somewhere, that made me realise that is likely the single most worthwhile suspension tweak for a leaf-sprung Series. If I did that and got low friction springs, there would be little need for coils for the sort of use I foresee. Your thread is long and my internet slow so it'll take some dredging to find that part of your build. I do recall space was tight and something broke first time round. I presume, then that the stresses are serious. I'm wondering if just mounting a longitudinal hydraulic damper could work? Stop the oscillation by breaking any resonance but reduce the chance of breakage? Not sure! I think I've worked out a tidy way of mounting to the diff housing but lining up to a body mount in a way that doesn't conflict with other bits will take some head-scratching. I'm looking forward to the challenge. I just noticed that you mentioned an anti-wrap bar at both ends. Is it that noticeable at the back too? I've never noticed those nasty suspension twists on a back axle. I am a big fan of Salisburys too and I suppose fitting could be relatively straightforward. It's just the issue of running a shorter driveshaft, that then has to run at a steeper angle when the suspension is worked, that worries me (that and the weight!). I'll see how I go. I'd love a locker or limited slip unit, some of which are quite strong (if I can get matching half-shafts). It might be cheaper to do that to a Rover axle than a Salisbury. New Zealand is such a difficult place to get fancy stuff like that - there are no cheap options and England is clear round the world from here...

I remember there were two ways of doing the clutch, one bad, cheap and common and one quite effective and expensive! Thanks for the tips there. One day I'll do some dismantling and tweaking. It's an odd set-up, with the piston pushing the clutch lever down, rather than forward. I can live with it being heavy and short travel but the lag is clearly a problem that needs resolving soon!

I've always found Land Rover handbrakes repay a bit of tinkering. This type does push the whole engine/gearbox against the mounts when applied, as you say, though my mounts seem tight. Just all a bit worn and needs an hour or two of fettling. Car seemed a bargain, which is why I grabbed it when I wasn't really planning to! It's been dereg'd though, so I'm not sure how many hoops I'm going to have to jump through to make it legal. Hoping I can farm reg it for now and can A-frame it if I go further than the local play spots, so I'm not panicking. Most of the sub $1,000 LRs have been on ****ty farms or beaches and have a perforated chassis! This one is remarkably good, though obviously has been repaired before. I'm in the Manawatu, up the Pohangina Valley.

Just a couple of little queries to finish on, if anyone is still reading: I’m keen on a bit of feedback re drivetrain and also ideas on sorting the front suspension. I think a good Series IIa gearbox and transfer box are capable of handling a bit of work, if driven sensitively (how I like to drive). The half-shafts and diff heads, though, are possibly less capable, especially given the slight increase in engine power and tyre size. I disagree with people who say they’re made of cheese. More like crisp celery! Actually, you can go a long way on Rover axles if you’re sensitive but I would like a bit more strength. On that budget! I also, eventually, want to be able to fit some sort of traction aid at the back, preferably from the TrueTrac/Detroit locker school (strong and uncomplicated, once fitted). Again on that budget. I’m a little confused. If I’ve got it right, the “stronger” Rover diff/axle options are all a higher ratio and 24 spline and not easy to fit into a Series (for example, I can get a new 3.54:1, 24 spline True Trac for around $830). There’s not really much room for a Salisbury. I believe I can get stronger half shafts made and pin/peg a diff. That doesn’t sound crazy simple though. Any thoughts? Please don’t suggest fitting something exotic or Japanese. That’s not going to happen! I’ll have to make do with what I have right now but the day will come when I’m out with some leadfoot types and will feel the need to keep up. I’ve heard that snapping sound before and I don’t like it! In terms of suspension, I have always liked the simplicity of leaves and the ones on this vehicle are nice and supple and in good enough condition, if a little flat at the front. However, there is an Achilles heel with Series leaf suspension, in that the front axle can hop and wrap in conditions of marginal traction, especially when axles get a little crossed. That’s not too serious in itself but must be hard on those wet celery half-shafts. I’ve heard an anti-wrap bar can prevent this but never seen one in action. It strikes me the forces involved are quite high too. If anyone can give some advice on how to sort the geometry and how to make a strong enough connection to the diff housing, I would be most grateful. That’s if I don’t run out of steam before I get there. Sadly, I’m the sort of bloke who, if something works okay, will move on...

The first few days with a new toy always wear me out. I want everything sorted, NOW, preferably without involving any terribly difficult work. So I run around in circles with tape measures and spanners until I get tired of running and finally settle down to do some work. If there is a lot to do, I usually make a list, which I find years later.... Anyhow, progress in the first few days has been good. A quick test drive around the property and a brief sneak down to the river revealed the good and bad but, overall, I was smiling. Back in the workshop, the first job was to strip the alternator (wasn’t charging), have it tested, then put it back in. Though I didn’t actually repair anything, it now charges. Great. I have a more powerful one out of a V8 Discovery which I hope to fit at some stage or the winch will laugh hysterically at the fancy-pants battery. I’m not absolutely sure the v-belt will drive a 110W alternator under full load. Does anyone know? Then a quick fiddle with the brakes, which felt wrong. The problem was a weeping bleed nipple, easily fixed. The adjusters have me scratching my head as they only actually work on one shoe per wheel. Nevertheless, I now have a firm pedal and can lock three wheels easily. The fourth is all new but the shoes don’t contact evenly. I think I can beat that, though the car stops straight and it’s okay for now. Attempts to adjust the handbrake have been frustrated by a seized adjuster screw and adjuster mounting nuts. The shoes and drums are good but a strip and rebuild is required anyway. The strangest issue was that I had to remove half a gallon of oil from the engine, to bring the level down to the right place on the dipstick. This has reduced the smoking... I have completely stripped and cleaned the carb. It had a wicked flat spot, right off idle, which made driving a pain. Now it’s gorgeous. I have spent money!! Twenty dollars bought a new axle end cap (mm, shiny) and good second hand remote axle breathers. Worth the expense. Still trying to work out how to route the rear breather to avoid the exhaust. I might try to find a longer hose. Ultimately, I will do the cool thing and run them up the snorkel. It hasn’t got a snorkel but I have some bits lying around that will make something work. All that junk has a purpose. Isn’t that the truth? I have spent a lot of time looking at the steel I have in stock and the extremities of the bodywork. And measuring and looking again. Did I mention a lot of time? Measure five times, weld once would be a good policy! I’m going to make rock sliders and am trying to decide if I want to weld them to the chassis or bolt them. Welding will involve removing the petrol tank, which will allow some rust prevention anyway. I suspect I will have that angle grinder out very soon. It’s hard to find that balance between wanting to protect everything and not adding too much weight. There are a lot of rocks and steep banks where I drive. I’ve decided, for now anyway, to fit a bikini soft top. That’s because I have the bits that go over the windscreen and doors and a mate “lent” me the hoop that holds the bits behind the doors. Plus I have a bit of canvas that size. Long term, I think I want a standard full tilt. I need something, it rained yesterday. Oh yes, and those missing door tops! I’ve also experimented with the wheels off my Stage One, which are a white spoked, wider type with quite a big offset, fitted with 255/85x16 BFG Mud Terrains. Though they just fit on the Stage One, they easily foul the rear guards on the little Land Rover (photo). As my plan is to use these on the project vehicle and find some nice standard rims and tyres for the Stage One (which I have now decided to replace with a diesel Discovery, long story), it looks like some panel chopping is in order. Oh dear. I fitted the same size tyres to a standard Range Rover and a jigsaw came in useful. I’m sure this will be less stressful than that! Now I have to find some cheap LWB rims for the Stage One as it would look very wrong on the SWB ones.

Beyond all that, a couple of nice LED floodlights (photo) will have to move before a branch rips them off. The trailer-type tail lights will go, to be replaced by new originals I somehow have in stock. Still on the rear end, there is a nice but, unfortunately, useless later model 50mm towball and a very solid towhook, which I believe is a Land Rover part. Does anyone know? (Photo). The front has a convoluted but mostly solid collection of steel welded on, which will need serious attention (photo). I have a 13,500lb winch on my Stage One, which will move across the shed to it’s new home on the little 88” fairly soon. That means some careful planning is in order. I want to protect the wings, give good approach angles for the front tyres, and try to tuck the A-frame mounts in closer. Another mate gave me some very solid steel from his scrap pile, which will be plenty sturdy enough for fabricating side rails and a decent front end, an absolute bonus. Should be lots of fun! He’s also got some good scrap pipe ideal for a proper roll bar. Seats are non-standard but work. They’ll need waterproof covers. Or replacing! One last thing. The Land Rover came with a very spiffy Optima battery, still under warranty. Not complaining about that, either! (Photo)

The vehicle as bought. No roof, camo paint, complete with A-frame, frame on the back for hunters to lean on (NOT a roll-bar!) and not much else. The chassis seems pretty good. Some surface rust but it’s obviously been fettled in the past. New front chassis legs have been attached at some stage.... (photo) ... and replacement outriggers... (photo) ... and a very practical, home-made piece of channel steel at the back (photo), which I quite like. There is plenty of surface rust and a few dings but it’s rock solid, which is a very good place to start. There are also mountings for a roll bar welded to the chassis, which will make life easier for me. The bulkhead is pretty good, with the only serious rust confined to a small area near the top driver’s door hinge. I’m happy with that. The transmission seems really good. Only weeps a little oil, very quiet, doesn’t jump out of gear and both gearbox and transfer box change sweetly and securely. A very big plus! Diffs are solid and quiet. The front brakes have new shoes and cylinders and the back brakes are good. The driver’s side swivel is very good but the passenger’s side is pitted and has let water in. Not a disaster. The body panels are a mixed bag. Rear tub, seat box, bonnet and door bottoms are good enough. Front wing outers are ok-ish, inners are naff. I have a few spares though. Door tops are missing completely (and are not cheap to buy in NZ, mutter mumble). The unusual feature (in an international sense) is the engine (photo). It’s a Holden 202 cu inch in-line six, roughly the same as the Vauxhall Victor 3.3 six and part of a long heritage of GM sixes dating back to, I believe, the 1920s, though this seems to be an early ‘80s variant. These motors (or the more common 186 cu inch versions) were an extremely common modification for NZ Land Rovers, forty or so years ago, promising better power (~110b.h.p. @ 4,000r.p.m.; ~170ft lbs@ 2,400r.p.m.) and fuel economy than the standard 2 1/4 petrol engine with no weight gain. Hmm. It’ll have to do. For now. Anyway, this motor must rank as one of the quietest (mechanically) engines I’ve ever heard. It’s spooky. It was running like a sick birds runny bum and smoking a fair bit but I felt it had potential. The big downside with this conversion is that it makes for the worst clutch actuation in the history of motoring. Ultra heavy, with such a short take-up it almost self-servoes. Plus this one lags, a bit like using a pre-selector gearbox. Ah well, we learn to adapt quickly enough. There must be something I can do to make it better, surely? More next post...

Changes in circumstances (company car, can’t complain!) have meant that I barely use my trusty Stage One V8 any more, which seems such a shame. Worse, I find that, when I do use it, it’s mostly to do “Land Rovery” things, like crawling into nasty places (trailer attached) to get firewood; or wander down the river to more private swimming holes. The trouble is, it’s a very nice Stage One and it’s increasing age makes me more and more keen not to bend it or drown it. Consequently, each excursion is tempered with some trepidation, even though I have always been amazed at how easily it does its job. I had tentatively thought I might find a cheap, bomby, not-legal-for-road Land Rover to use for the rougher, more local work, in order to save the more valuable Stage One, but I have a budget ludicrously close to zero, so I had been reduced to tyre-kicking rust-buckets. Until last Sunday, when I went mad. I was wandering round a very cheap ($NZ500) Series IIa, kicking the deeply treaded tyres when I realised it was actually a “good ‘un” and well worth the money. Before I knew it, I’d hooked it up by the A-frame that was already fitted and was towing it home, wondering how I was actually going to pay for it! Well, I found the money but it’s patently clear this is not going to be a strip-down, wallet-emptying restoration. I do have a clear vision, though. This is going to be a PROJECT. Massive V8 engine, massive tyres, portal diffs, tricky suspension ... in my dreams! No, the aim is to keep weight and cost down while improving strength and off-road ability, all on my cheapskate budget. I mean, if I could afford fancy stuff, I’d start with a 90. Or a Unimog. Etc. Should be easy enough... (More photos in the next post)

Since I started reading this topic, I've bought a Series 2A with standard transmission but fitted with a Holden 202 motor (roughly the same as a 3.3litre Vauxhall Victor in-line six, for those in England). I have noticed very quickly that a) the standard gearing feels ludicrously low in top and b) I wouldn't want low first to be any higher! I guess it depends on what you are doing (and, of course, those V8s seem able to pull any gear you throw at them) but giving up low speed crawling ability for higher road speed seems to go against the whole point of a Series Land Rover. An overdrive, of course, overcomes the problem but fitting higher geared diffs is a big compromise if you want a decent off-roader. On my Stage One V8, I get the best of both worlds because you can mix and match transfer gears on those, so it's high on the road and low (very low!) off road. Perfick.

When I first read this, I thought it sounded like a fuel pump issue. Then I remembered having the same symptoms with a fuel-injected Range Rover. Having spent a fortune on the wrong bits, the problem turned out to be in the distributor. Not the pickup, but the spinning part (can't remember what that's called, duh!). Fine cold, then very erratic after a few miles. If you could borrow another distributor, you'll know very quickly...

I'm pretty sure it's a certified record. Shouldn't be too hard to check. Really, though, I don't understand people who get negative about others' achievements just because they don't match their own experience. In terms of fuel economy, I'm almost the other way. When someone says he/she only gets 25m.p.g. out of a diesel Land Rover, I immediately think "what on earth are you doing so badly to get that"! Interestingly, my first Land Rover, back in the day, was a humble diesel Series III (and, oh, how little power that had!). I used to get a reliable 35 m.p.g. (no round town driving, all open road) simply by putting my foot hard down and letting the governor hold it at maximum revs (52m.p.h. on the speedo). I then put an overdrive on it and, no matter how I drove it, I couldn't get better than 30 m.p.g.. It was easier on the ears, though!

Just going back to the fuel economy thing (which was way off topic!), I recall reading in LRO years ago, when the first TDi Range Rover came out, that someone did a Land's End to John O'Groats run in one and got 52 m.p.g., setting a record in the process. Good economy is possible...

All good advice but I'd be heading straight to those carb diaphragms first. They're cheap and easy to change, so nothing scary there. If the engine runs very smoothly but lacks power, it could well be your distributor not advancing. You should be able to grab the rotor and twist it a few degrees, with the springs pulling it back smoothly. If not, you'll have to delve further. The vacuum advance is separate to the weight system and is a petrol saving measure, the operation of which you can't really feel while you're driving. If it's sticking, it will save you money to find out why! I have had a distributor with that plastic cover but can't remember what held it in place, sorry. Someone else is bound to help...

I've only had my Stage One V8 for around 7 years but have changed the gearing. I changed the high ratio transfer gears for Range Rover ones (there are various ratios available and I can't remember, off the top of my head, which I have! I retained the standard low ratios, best of both worlds). I also moved to 255/85 tyres and retained the standard 3.54 diffs. All up, that's about 25% over-geared in top. With a tired, standard motor, it worked but was sluggish. I now have a good 3.9 and the gearing is absolutely perfect. The vehicle is very willing, even with a trailer, and still able to take decent hills in top etc. The SD1 V8 will be similarly capable of handling greatly raised gearing, I'm sure. Note, though, that the SIII gearbox wasn't designed for that much torque and I'd want to drive it very sympathetically, if I was you. The LT95 in the Stage One is very sturdy, by comparison.

I don't know about parabolics but normal leaf springs can get some stiction if they sit around for a long time, basically very light surface rust which causes a binding which takes the suppleness away from the springs until they've hit a few bumps and rubbed themselves clean. Maybe I notice that more than most because my springs get wet frequently? Yours have been sitting for quite some time so that is a possibility, which should quickly resolve over a few miles. You can test your shocks by disconnecting one end - they should be quite heavy to move (not sticky) but you should still be able to do it by hand with a hefty push/pull. If not, that might be the problem. However, this simply sounds like springs which are too stiff for the weight. They could be the wrong springs for your truck. I've had that before on an 88 and had the same symptoms, only resolved by putting standard springs on.

Just one other point: I believe there's something to be said for getting a few dry miles on your truck on your way home from a deep crossing drive as this warms up your transmission, wheel hubs etc. and could well minimise condensation. Of course, if you've been in wet, silty mud, you're just working your grinding paste in but at least the issues that causes will become apparent sooner! I'm interested in what other people think about this.

Just to add to the original list: A friend who is a little more careful than me has an on-board compressor/tank which runs a tricky low pressure system. This lightly pressurises various components, such the distributor, alternator and so on. Positive pressure when underwater must be a good thing and it clearly works for him. I've had good and bad luck with water-proofing. One Series IIA I had sucked water into every part of the transmission if I just breathed the word "river". It was hopeless. Another Range Rover was mis-treated very often in deep water (several times even going over the bonnet, which I call deep) and, after two years and tens of thousands of miles, apparently had suffered no ill-effects at all (it had three non-standard modifications: an optical distributor, a snorkel and a piece of wood bungied over the radiator grill). Even the carpets stayed dry, thanks to those lovely double door seals. One thing I have learned is that condensation can do damage well after you think everything is dry (wheel bearings, transmission etc.). You can end up with very light surface rust on bearing surfaces, which wears the bearing out a week or five later and you can wonder why. I know of a 1930 Harley Davidson which never went out in the rain but lived in a dampish basement and it's engine lasted a very short time when new owners actually started using it. Yup, condensation throughout. I also had a work-supplied Toyota HiLux which became an insurance write-off after someone else drove it into a river to just under bonnet depth. The cost of a proper dry-out plus replacement engine was considered more expensive than a replacement vehicle. Actually, that was a win for me because the HiLux wasn't exactly to my taste but let's not go there! I do pity the person who bought it later from auction - it looked fine... Anyway, this is a lesson for everyone - deep submersion can be very, very expensive!

Fair point. Mine get wet fairly often and it seems they don't dry evenly. Next day, the rust on the drums clearly isn't even either. Beyond that, it seems even reconditioned cylinders eventually don't move with equal freedom. I have had drum-braked Land Rover that were fine for years (though still needing adjustment at times to compensate for wear - there is a lot of pedal travel otherwise) but my current one is driving me crazy with its inconsistency. How much money do you throw at the brakes before a disk conversion looks like a good plan?