robhybrid
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Posts posted by robhybrid
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knowing my luck it would burn a hole through the side of the bucket
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I want to put 100A load onto my batteries for som 15-20min so that I can test my charge alt output and the quality of my earth connections.
I havent got 22 spot lights kicking around to wire up as a load has anyone got anny sudgestions.
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the flash of the camera stops you from seeing how red the pipes are glowing
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Thought I would show you my waste oil burner using 2 landrover brake drums.
The pipe going up glows red and gives off loads of heat
The smoke is bad when you initially light it but it burns clean once it is hot.
The bottom drum has had all the holes welded up to create a large dish to hold the oil.
There are a lot of holes (20ish) 10mm around the bottom pipe about 1/2" up from the top brake drum.
There are 3 holes 10mm about 1'6" up the first pipe.
The pipe diamiter is a close fit to the center of the brake drum.
The ferocity? of the fire is controlled by blocking up or unblocking the top brake drum stud holes.
I 3/4 fill the bottom drum with waste oil then add a splash of petrol and drop a burning rag onto it then put the top drum back on.
Yes I have burnt the hairs of the back of my hands and sindged my fringe and eye brows experementing
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The day I passed my driving test I went out in my dads series 2A A petrol engined fire engine broke down just down the road from where I was parked.
I did my good deed by offering to give them a tow, they hooked me up with a chain and I took off like a thing possesed.
I took the slack up in the chain and came to an abrupt stop.
The rear wheels jumped nearly 6" inches in the air ahd the 6month old replacement rear cross member was duly banana shaped by some 4".
My towing style has changed slightly now
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I'll be there. driving from Glos on Sunday morning.
Drove my truck with a petrol auto box for the firs time this morning. What ave I done
Still got to repair my tow truck yet (headlight , bumper, Rad, Indicator, crash damage)
Havent tested anything yet
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Yes, a flat sheet approx 2-3mm thick polished stainless steel.
Les.
is that yes I am making a stainless tea bag
sounds like a job for a punch to me.
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Just got one through from Ebay, bit big I thought:
Now got to suss a way of bolting it on the V8, however it makes for a nice centre panel
if that guage is for a v8 I dont recon you will need a scale to go above 20 psi
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I could be open to offers for mine but high ratio is 1:22.
Looking for tokens towards an underdrive replacement, gives me more levers to play with
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Bish's first graph shows that above 4,000lb there's not a huge amount in it, and it also shows why the 8274 is popular for competitions, due to the big difference in speed at no or low loads, consider.....
Power out 50ft of cable, winch in 10ft at full load, then winch back in the remaining 40ft at no load, 8274 would win hands down. Also when drive assist allows the winch cable to be come unloaded or at least reduced load the 8274 can take up that slack much quicker.
Looking at the graphs is the 8274 significantly higher geared than the others?
Hit the nail on the head.
For comps 8274.
For hauling logs mm or H***y
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I am after wiring diagrams for the 3.5 v8.
I am after the diagrams that cover everything that is attatched to the engine/ecu(ecm). on a kreg example.
I am ideally after diagrams for the hot wire version but would be interested in seeing the diagrams for the flap type too.
My rave discs have good diagrams for the defender but only a fault finding section for the rrclasic and discovery1
I have most of the wiring loom and ecm for a 1993 model but the engine I intend on fitting it to is a 1991 model.
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Who's actually running it now?
I beleve the show used to belong to lama 4x4 but he sold the show to total off road.
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Going twin alternator with one for vehicle and one for winches is the way to go in my opinion, you can allways fit a heavy duty link switch if one alt fails too
I go electric cause I can drive assist in any gear at any revs without is affecting line speed, winch rop also stays taught if the vehicle finds grip and drives forward.
Saying that the type r variant is getting closer
Now where did I stick that stirring spoon.
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Unfortunately I think he has 60 days to leave feed back and if you give him bad feed back I am sure he will do like wise
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I use OEN 12v relays at work that are rated to 240v.
They are automotive relays that have 2 contact points on them the first takes the initial ark and is made from a different material from the 2nd which takes the main current.
I work at a 10-550 KVA generator manufacturing factory.
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I would vote for none of the above!
Run the earth cable to one of the starter motor mounting bolts and from there to the chassis via a bolt welded to chassis.
Run the earth for a winch directly to the battery.
Use as heavy cable as you can for earths - at least 35mm.
What is the one thing in the vehicle which draws the most current - the starter. The Alternator is also earthed through the engine. give them both the best chance by making your engine the primary earth. All the bulbs, radios & stuff can connect via the weedy earth strap (or choke cable
) you've run between the engine & chassis.Si
Si has said almost exactly what I was thinking.
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In my opinion double caradon joint works great if the joint at the other end of the shaft is running virtually straight i.e. diff nose pointing up towards the transfer box.
If the diff nose is running parallel with the ground and hence along the same plane as the transfer box then the double caradon joint may not (should not) fix the problem.
The prop useually has 2 uj's so that one cancells out the other.
Made any sence? Or just confused the mater further?
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7" for me I think, I would be half tempted to stick a bit of plain blue vynil onto my truck first .
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Will I am suprised at you how come you havent splashed a few more pennys and given your transfer box to dave and asked him to look at it and fit the underdrive whilst he was at it.
Or is it that the man you need to talk to is on holiday this week?
P.S. I sent you some photos last night of Gwyns linkage for the Underdrive, did you get them and what do you think?
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It is for steering tack rods so needs to be one piece (no welding either). I will make enquire locally but posted in case someone here cna do it - saves me asking around I guess.
roughly where are you?
a mate of mine might be able to do something but he is at st harmon just down the road from tomy's cwm derw
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looks like the rangie has been on quite a diet.
Now she is looking so pretty is there going to be a ban on red mist
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See if you didnt look after your truck so well and allowed the engine to spring a few more oil leaks you would have self lube UJ's
I know they get more abuse when running large tyres but 2 years is a bit poor though
Have you (king of bling/or was it clenlyness) been steam cleaning your engine bay
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Hi guys,
does anyone haven LT95 going cheap and accessible very quickly.
Need one ASAP
ta
Jim
If it is vital that you have one with a stage one gear set I might know of one.
I have got a rr one that needs a gear lever (I was a bit rough removing the rr body
)Courier from my area to you would be £50 ish though
Send me a pm if you are interested in either.
Rob.
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My EPC tells me that lever is ERR4897 in 2002 it was around 2.16 plus vat
Thanks western/moglite Just what I was looking for.
) you've run between the engine & chassis.
Waste oil heater
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
I only fill the bottom pan then re fill once it has gone out 3/4 - 1 hour.
I have seen a burner like this with a long length of brake pipe with a tap from a 5 gallon drum on a stand feeding in through one of the stud holes.
The tap was used to controll the oil flow to be sufficient to keep the bottom of the pan covered in oil.