robhybrid
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Posts posted by robhybrid
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I have soldered wires on vehicles in the past and have had them fail due to fracture within 2 years of me doing what I thought was a good quality repair.(fact)
That heat shrink that has a a low melt glue inside it is excellent stuff all the winch cables that Gwyn Lewis makes up are treated to some of this stuff.(opinion)
Gwyn only seems to be able to get hold of it in black at a reasonable price though.
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Hi folks,I have just been given a Range Rover Gearbox X member (age/source vehicle unknown).The question is will it fit straight away or is modification required and how much? Oh, its going ,I hope!, onto a 86(C reg) swb 90 N/A diesel....And while I am on the subject of chassis,why doesn,t anyone make half chassis as they do for series machines? Or do they.........
the hole centers horizontally are the same but the hole centers vertically are different,
90 chassis approximately 7" deep rr chassis approximately 5" deep.
My gearbox x member is a rr one with some flat welded across the top then re drilled I have also done various other mods to my x member hence sticking with the rr one and not using the 90 one.
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just noticed this post whilst doing a search for something else.
Gwyn's shock mounts take into account that on full articulation the coil spring becomes (coil bound) a long time before the axle hits the bump stop.
the mounts do however allow the axle to hit the bump stop when it is flat or non severe articulation.
you may be cutting out your wheel arches unnecessarily?
does this make sence.
fit the springs and lift a wheel as high as you can with as much weight as possible in the rear of your vehicle and you will see what I mean.
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The power increase of a large inter cooler is misleading because to get more power the fueling has to be altered.
leave your inter cooler alone and spend the time/money on making sure the fuel pump is set up to the optimum.
I have seen vehicles set up correctly without large inter coolers perform very well.
A inter cooler and fuel pump setup was fitted after wards and the difference was hardly noticeable.(performance increase none mpg 1-2mpg better).
Driving style would have given a larger difference.
bigger inter coolers are suited in my opinion to vehicles held at constant revs on high load for long periods of times(higher turbo temp) so possibly worth while if you are pulling a trailer along the motorway.
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try muddy trout
I have bought a winch motor of them in the past.
only dealt with them over the phone though
website claims £795 for a 8274
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dave lama 4x4 has done them in the past give him a ring
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I tend to leave the rear tyres on the rear and change 2 sets of front to 1 set of rear roughly.
I think it works out cheaper than swaping wheels around and having to buy tyres in sets of 4.
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mythbusters did do a show on wire winch rope a while ago, they had a pig carcase hanging in direct line with a flying winch rope which they cut whilst it was under tension.
The pig suffered at worst severe bruising but certanly no decapitation, in fact the skin was not even cut.
I always like to see my winch sail as close as possible to the winch hook as this flying is what I consider to be most dangerous.
Obviously there are occasional times where having a sail hanging from the rope allows other people to more clearly see the rope rather than drive/walk over it.
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Extra articulation isnt as critical if you have lockers?
I belive the longer you can drive without lockers the less strain you end up putting on your drive line, as the load is spread accross all drive shafts for as long as possible.
I am biased as I occasionally work for Gwyn.
Another point worth mentioning is that the shocks used by Gwyn are the same all round so If you do want to carry a spare you only need to carry one.
Both Gwyn and Simon(devon) use/recomend ome springs and shocks.
There are a lot of people on this forum who use Gwyn's kit but with different shocks and springs.
Different shocks do allow you to make some savings but if you ever get to try two vehicles back to back where the only difference is shocks it is a very educational experiance.
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I have seen washers fitted between the clutch cover and flywheel on izusu conversions before so I presume this could be a issue with the conversion.
The washers I saw appeared to be slightly thiner than standard m8 washers though.
I was once told that a landrover clutch plate was thicker than a izusu clutch plate hence the washers.
I have allso seen izusu flywheels "skimed" flat and then a landrover pressure plate fitted, no spacer washers.
If you watch the forks of the pressure plate move as you tighten the pressure plate bolts you will see a small movement at the bols makes a huge movement at the fork where the thrust bearing pushes.
I have made 3 of my own adapter plates for short bellhousing lt77/series and I did not use spacers on the pressure plate.
somebody on here should be able to tell you where the rod lies relative to the gearbox bellhousing with a std landrover, yours should be in verry close the same position.
would it be worth making up a new pushrod rather than dismantling the engine and box again?
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The motor of the arb compressor is a permanent magnet type. I have seen the magnets come loose from the outer casing either due to rust(water damage) or exessive heat been from running constant for too long.
I have managed to dismantle repair and rebuild one of these but I dont think I could justfy doing this for a customer as it takes too long to charge for compared to getting a new pump.
I think the new arb compressors with the smaller tank are ideal for switching the diff locks but not ideal for regularly pumping up tyres.
I think that people should consider some sort of secondary water proofing/damage prevention (mount inside a sturdy bottom vented box) when they install these outside.
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Assuming the rest of the steering is OK, bushes, joints etc. Then it's likely it's a box fault.
Located within the valve body in the steering box is a torsion bar, it's job is to vary the amount of power assistance dependent on the effort applied to the steering wheel/resistance at the road wheels.
At low speed more effort is needed to turn the wheel, the torsion bar twists and allows the valve to open further providing more power assistance.
As road speed increases less effort is required, the torsion bar twists less, valve doesn't open as far, therefore less assistance.
This provides assistance only as needed and "feedback" at the wheel.
If the torsion bar is weakened or broken the box provides full power at all times as there is little to stop the valve opening fully.
Failure is normally the result of heavy off roading and/or big tyres.
Also if the steering swivel preloads are too tight the box will again provide excess assistance as the input effort at the wheel will be higher.
The torsion bar is integral with the valve/worm assembly. Not really a diy job and exchange boxes are not a lot of money.
Finally if you have this problem, the steering wont fail any further but as said, it's dangerous at speed.
DON'T DRIVE IT ON THE PUBLIC ROAD UNTILL IT'S FIXED.
Are you talking from technical experiance?
Have you ever seen any of these torsion bars fail?
I have never seen any of these torsion bars break.
I can see how a weakening of this bar could possibly result in lighter steering though.
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merry x mas from me tooo
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That's a good price - I bet a brand new one is twice that...
I was told that you could buy a brand new discovery3 engine for about £2000 from LR.
I guess that you would still need to purchase engine loom and ecu.
I have been lead to belive ancilaries (turbo, starter) are included.
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the correct level is 200ml 0.2litre
when you put it in it dosent lok like a lot but it is well splashed arround by the big gear.
more oil puts extra drag on the gears, and will leak out if the main drum seal isnt absolutely perfect.
the best possible oil is fully synthetic ep90 you wont belive the difference it makes to the speed
I have to take the top cover off both of mine and change the oil in them after every howling wolf event
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coming out is easy, it is the going back in and setting up that is dificult.
have a google on the net on how to dissmante and re fit dana axles as they are very similar to salisbury.
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I run 2 stauns and 2 clamped outer rim bead locks.
For slower off road use I would highly recomend rim bead locks.
If you only ocasionaly / never need the bead lock ability but are regularly on the road I would recomend staun type bead lock.
I found dirt/grass/twigs can still push inbetween the tyre and rim on Staun, a inflated 60psi tube moves inwards when you are giving them abuse the tyre then goes flat as if you had a slow puncture
This is bearable at a compatition but irritating the following day.
I allso like the confidence of an extreemly strong outer wheel rim when you have the weld on type outer rim bead lock.
I run my tyres at bellow 5 psi during comp.
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I thought that water submirsible military landrovers had a key that enabled you to disconect the ignition live to the alternator and attatch that wire to ground,
That would stop the alternator from prtoducing power whilst you went in deep water.
It would help prolong the life of the regulator pack and other electrics.
But the damage of dirt ingress is not prevented.
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a ate of mine used to have a battery charger connected to a car horn and that was then powered up by a pir inside the building, wouldnt hear it from 3 miles away though.
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I use a 120 amp ford transit alternator on my isuzu, has the vacume pump and is easyer to wire up, cheaper to replace. higher current.
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As your vehicle is lhd I dont think that part of the chasis is doing anything load bearing critical, if it were a rhd vehile I would like to see a better weld job, I have seen far worse on the road though.
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If you want to keep the maximum diff clearance when off roading and dont want the guard to fall off then the weld on type are the best option providing you can weld or can get someone to weld them on for you.
They are probaply the cheapest option too.
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I have painted a winch before now with "steel wheel" spray can paint.
The picture shows what looks like a plasma/dynema style rope, depending on what you are planning to do with it It could well be serviceable, check for signs of damage to the rope though.
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The rough country are a budget option, if you could borrow some ome shocks before comiting to an expensive purchase you will notice a huge difference.
Howlin Wolf Round 1
in Competing in Land Rovers
Posted
is it a bit late to start thinking about getting fit ready for running around at howlin wolf?