jackbw28

Thanks Retroanaconda, It does make sense just to stay standard. It just seems to me that that the twin bearing set up would be better - though that isn't based on anything concrete. In any case I quite like the older swivel housings with drain plugs, so don't want to replace them anyways so I'll stick with standard then. But still good to know I could you my old hubs with the later housing if I want to at some point. Yep the diff is a sticking point... Might have to give it to somebody, it would save me a lot of time and give me peace of mind! Although its something i'd like to know how to do and with two diffs needing replacing it's quite expensive to have it done!

Well all good news and lots of information, thanks very much everybody Looks like the idea will work without too much fuss, now I need to snap up an axle, get it fitted and finalise the prop a bit later. However in the mean time I'm rebuilding my front axle - any hints tips on setting up the diff? And, I know I'm pushing it , but another question: I disassembled my wheel stations today (removed them as a complete unit yesterday to drop the final drive/diff assembly) and, as expected really, found almost everything worn and/or damaged. I'm pricing up and finding all the part numbers now for replacement parts now and just noticed that later type swivels have two taper roller bearings top and bottom. Mine only have one bearing at the bottom and a bush (very very worn!) at the top. I need to replace the swivel balls as they are badly pitted and I'lll replace the pins as-well. So, can I use the later style balls with later pins and two taper roller bearings AND retain my existing housing and stub axle? I'll let you know how the rear axle and prop shaft work out, incase anybody's interested, when I get there. Hopefully won't be too long, just need to finish the front first.

Hi Will, hmm. Sounds like you may be right! Hope not though And thanks for your input. Well if I can't get a LR prop to fit, I may have to have a custom one made.... Might get a few rough quotes before proceeding though. I'll google prop specialists but if anybody knows or can recommend a company that would be helpful.

Thanks for the info dailysleaze, Thats good news. I'm pretty sure my lower link bars are the same as 300tdi so see no problem - thanks for the probable confirmation this will work (for the mounting at-least). Out of interest why did you not you a 300tdi A-frame? is the mounting to the axle casing different? Regarding the prop, tomorrow I'll measure up current distance and hopefully it will fall within your quoted length for a 300tdi prop. Then once I've fitted the axle I'll measure again to double confirm correct td5 prop fitment. I think it will match up though with you information, thanks again - very helpful. Another question regarding the brakes. I have a two lines from the master cyl, one to the rear and one to the front, both via an imbalance sensor of sorts. I think all this does is activate the dash warning light if there is a pressure imbalance thus, problem. I think was deleted on later vehicles and a different source used for the light, but don't think it affects operation or anything. These two lines split via a simple t-piece to left and right at both front and back. I'm not sure what the 300tdi has, but wouldn't have thought it had two lines to the rear? How did you connect your brakes? The only 'odd' thing I have is an in-line unit on the rear line. Not 100% sure what it does, but think it is something to do with front/rear brake bias. In any-case it can very simply be bypassed. However if anybody knows better as to what it does I'd love to know! thanks

Hi Western, Thanks for that - didn't see your post till I already replied! So are you now using your old A-frame with your new chassis and the later type mounts? If so i assume going the other way would also work... Old brackets new A-frame? Thanks again.

Hi Will, Thanks for your reply. I know the gearbox itself is different and that post 200tdi engines sit a lot further forward. But I think the difference is made in the bell housing length, not the location of the gearbox which I hope has remained the same. I fitted an R380 box and used a shorter than usual bell housing and input shaft that kept the engine (and G-box) located in the original position. But of-course it could be a combination of both on Td5 vehicles which could have a different Gbox position - I don't know too much post 300tdi! Ah interesting about the later A-frame, I shall do some research into that. Regarding the puma axle, it's not necessarily off a 60plate. But I have come across a couple of newish puma axles (3 years old max) that have come from written off puma's. How, I have no idea! regarding the bent axle... hmmm, I've heard similar as-well but just don't think it's all that common. The axle has been in use for a while now and although the odd story of a bent/snapped one crops up I still think it's benefits outweigh the Sals... But indeed it may indeed catch me out!

Hello everybody, I'm replacing my front differential, journal and pinion bearings on an '89 110. The reason being existing play in pinion bearings and wanting to upgrade to an LSD diff as part of my partial vehicle rebuild. I'm trying to ascertain if I should do the job myself or pay somebody else to do it. I would prefer to save some money and learn something fitting it myself - if I can assure myself it's done correctly and won't fail later. The vehicle is to be used for a trans-Africa expedition hopefully starting mid feb next year so failure would be even more expensive and time consuming to rectify if it fails en-route. I've removed the final drive unit from the axle and had a good read of the workshop manual and some other threads on the subject and my questions are: - How hard is it to get the new bearings onto the shafts? The side/journal bearings and the pinion bearings. The manual states use a press or drift. But I've never 'drifted' bearings onto a shaft before - will that not damage them? I have no problem drifting out, and new ones in, the bearing races for the pinion bearings - just concerned about doing the same for the actual bearings themselves. I do not have a press. - I'm bit confused about pinion gear depth and setting this. I understand the use of shims for setting the preload and using a dial type torque wrench (something to buy) to check the preload. It's setting the depth, or not, that is not clear to me. - I think I understand setting the backlash by altering the preload on the side bearings equally. Ie reduce load on one side, then take up that reduction on the other. This having the effect of slightly moving the Crown gear towards/away from the pinion gear in an effort to obtain correct backlash whilst also maintaining side bearing preload. I also understand how to check the backlash with a dial gauge indicator (something else to buy). However I am a bit confused when you take into account the depth of the pinion gear as-well - as this would also change the backlash, so how do you set both simultaneously? - Finally, regarding side bearing pre-load, is this checked by using a dial type torque wrench on the drive flange in much the same you would with the pinion bearings? Obviously with a different torque value. Also I have read in other posts about people replacing both sets of bearings and not doing any of the above, but simply using the initial settings & shims and not evening checking backlash or preload on reassembly. If the crown and pinion gears are being retained is this really feasible, considering the diff centre is being changed whereas in the example above the same diff centre was re-used. 2nd question. Sorry if this should be asked in a separate post, I am unsure. My '89 110 has a drum brake Salisbury rear axle. After much thought I plan to fit a good 2nd hand (but not very old - insurance write off) 110 puma axle in its place. By doing so I upgrade to disc brakes (and callipers discs etc all in good condition due to age). I also increase my ground clearance and have an axle that is more 'user friendly' than the Salisbury. I also intend to replace most of the drive internals of this axle with a new locking diff, HD shafts and drive flanges. The 'puma' style axle also has a lot more locking diff options than a Salisbury and is correctly rated for use on a 110. I understand many people prefer the Salisbury due to its 'sheer' strength and I understand this - I also know its possible to fit a disc-braked Salisbury or even fit discs to my drum fitted Salisbury. However, I have had one Salisbury axle fail on me (probably caused by bad pinion bearings - so not really the axle at fault) but I still prefer going for the puma style axle. So my question is regarding the fitment of this axle to my vehicle. - I know my old prop will be too short. I see no reason why a late Td5 prop would not fit as that used the same set up I am aiming for. Same axle and same transfer box mounted in the same position. Does anybody see a problem with this plan? - I understand spring seats need to be swapped over. No problem here I assume? - I have noticed that the trailing arm and A-frame bushes are different part numbers for this axle as opposed to a Salisbury rear axle. So does anybody know if this axle will fit my trailing arms and will my A-frame ball joint fit this axle? - If the answer to the above is no, I can use puma trailing arms and A-frame. In this case are the chassis mounts the same? - Is there anything I need to do to the brakes to have them work correctly, other than just connecting them up? I intend to just ignore the ABS components. My vehicle has what I think is a brake 'balancing' unit mounted on the rear brake line. Should I remove this? Are the rear brakes on a puma fed by one line, and split on the axle or two separate lines? If its two lines can can I simply join them to the one line I have via a t-piece? Any other thoughts or ideas on the issue would be greatly appreciated. Many Thanks.

haha, 3 years is a long time!! But I agree it's better to wait and get a good job rather than rush it and then be Mildly miffed off with it. Well done with finding that paint shop, it sounds awesome! They baked the whole thing, that has got to be a fantastic pint job and it sounds a good price for the work they did! I recently had the dilema of painting, well I still do to some extent... As I was doing all this mechanical work I thought it would be a shame not to to redo the awful military paint job (also not sure how well a nato green 110 would go down in Libya atm). However I'm a lot tighter when it comes to spending money on non mechanical things! So, after getting some quotes the cheapest was £1000, so I decided to do it myself! I spent £300 on a compressor and gun, another £150 on paint and rags etc and set to work on the wings. I am doing it in stages as it's not fun and so much work! Anyways I did the wings last week as they were already off (now back on ). It came out much better than expected but is by no means a pro job, there is a lot to it. Heres the freshly painted wings hanging off some 'summer' chairs in by awfully maintained garden... I'm happy with the finish, but just hope it doesn't all fall of in a couple of years! Also, I've decided after putting the engine back together and fitting everything back on that I would like an EGT gauge.... Need to decide which one and how to fit the sender now! Any ideas for a 200tdi Defender engine... not as obvious as a 300 or 200 disco! Well done with that paint job, have you got any close up pictures of it for a little comparison! - do you know what type of paint they used? Also regarding your boost gauge, it's certainly possible to get an adapter to screw straight into the turbo replacing that thing thats already there. It will also be a very neat way of doing it, no idea why it's brass though - sure it doesn't matter too much, just wouldn't use steel!

Okay, I recognise that blurb, I know of the company! I did consider them when I was looking for a recon engine, though I was going to do the fitting, setting timing and swapping ancillaries myself. He actually wants £995 for a 'stripped' engine. The £795 is for a 3/4 engine, which is basically an engine with no cylinder head i.e the same as a 'short' engine but with the front cover, oil pump, timing gears etc... A short engine is just the block, crank and pistons. Generally when you buy a recon engine you can choose between buying a 'short' '3/4' or 'stripped' engine. If you want the whole lot you will need a stripped engine. I never asked about fitting etc but I know how much the turbo and pump cost as I did that to mine (the pump is extremely expensive, but I did it for peace of mind when Im going to be alone (only 1 landy) in the Sahara desert later this year!!). But basically the turbo and pump come to £700 which means he's going to buy all the other ancillaries, pay labour, and make a profit off the remaining £300!! I don't see how! I think it's more likely he will use most of your existing ancillaries, clean and paint them before fitting to your recon engine for £2000. And there is nothing at all wrong with that, it's unlikely you need a new vacuum pump or starter etc etc. The fuel pump and turbo are critical though, but as I said before the pump is bullet proof and probably doesn't need doing (only bosch can do this anyways) but I would suggest doing the turbo. Even the price of his stripped engine alone is much lower than other companies, this made me question quality a bit as the price difference was huge, if you've been on Turners website their stripped engines are almost double his price! I also spoke to him, and asked how he can do it for so much less - he said his overheads are much lower, which is probably true to a degree but then I pressed him on what parts he used and he admitted not using OEM parts. Turners for example only use OEM parts. Although he offered to fit OEM parts if I wanted. Turners have been on the landy engine scene for years, and even helped land rover with some problems on an engine many years ago and I trust them more than almost any other company out there, they always reply to very technical questions quickly, even on weekends and are generally very helpful. However an engine is an engine and I'm very sure this other company will do a very good job for less money - but after he re-quoted me for oem only parts the difference between him and Turners was much smaller and I went with Turners for extra peace of mind. It's difficult though as Turners don't do fitting or painting or anything else, so they don't offer a all in one solution, like the other place. Realistically I'm sure their engines are very good, his prices certainly are and you get the warranty if there is a problem. But I'd double check the ancillaries bit!! Oh right, yeah just see how the lucas goes! Oh pulling it back is fine to flash, thats what it's for - but not to be held on, especially when you have main beams already on! haha, yeah it was a bit far, I seem to spend more time in the shed than the house when im home... oh dear! And I'm going to be moving out soon, so wasn't very long lived after all! Oh thats good, things are better perfect!!

Yeah, i did it in the shed - it's amazing the deciding factor for moving into this house was that it had a good shed/drive for working on the landy!! Um, £2K seems very good to me - almost too good! But it does depend on what he actually does, as a recon engine alone can cost £2K. The turbo is about £250 and injection pump is another £450 ish and if you want to replace ALL the bits it quickly adds up. You have all the gaskets which come to over £100 on their own, then the starter is a few hundred, vacuum pump, fuel lift pump, seals all will cost something! Obviously you probably don't need or want to replace everything but if you did replace or recondition all ancillaries I don't think it's possible for £2000. Regarding the engine itself it is very difficult to say what it will cost as it depends on how worn parts are inside, and the only way to check is to disassemble and measure bits. If your lucky a lot of the bits will be within tolerance and can be reused. It's an tricky one, ask the guy if that includes a recon turbo and injection pump. Tbh I doubt you would need to recon the injection pump, they are a very reliable Bosch unit! But if he's quoting for all new ancillaries I'd be intrigued as to how for that price! Regarding the light switch... I'd just see how it goes with this lucas one. If this one goes relatively quickly you will most likely have another problem. But it's such a simple circuit that if it all works and the lights are working properly it's unlikely anything is wrong. As mentioned the high current passes through the switch so it's under load all the time - but if its rated for that it shouldn't be an issue. Where you get the highest current is when you flick the switch as the instantaneous current will peak higher than the nominal usage and I'm skeptical the cheap switches will take this into account. Also exactly which switch is it, the main 3-way (off, side, main) or the one you flick for high beam? If it's the high beam one I've noticed with mains switched on dip if you pull the switch back as if you want to flash the lights, you get both the dip and high beam filaments turning on at the same time. This will 'add' additional current to the circuit and thus switch and It is not a good idea to do! (also not good for the bulb) On my other 'modern' car you can't actually do this for more than a second (just to flash) for that reason I suspect!

Oh wow, that does look good! You must have spent a lot of time on that! Mines half rotten plywood atm. Hmm, I'd say poor quality S**tpart switch. I have had some bad exprences with them and now actively don't use them for anything at all. There is always some sort or problem! Bearmach is a perfectly good alternative and where most of the parts for my rebuild have come from. I still bought gen LR or oem for certain critical things. I know some people say they are fine for certain things but I can't be bothered with the gamble - it's such a waste of time to fit something, especially if its hard to get to then have to do it again if it doesn't work! And buying once is certainly cheaper then twice if you can't get a refund or whatever. When I spend money buying a part I do expect it to fit perfectly and work as intended, which is often (but not always) not the case with the blue boxes! However wiring the relays in as mentioned above is a good idea, you may even notice slightly brighter headlamps as there is less wire for the current to to run down thus les of a voltage drop at the lamps. Um the engine, thanks again - it's been a long time of hard work! I did most of it myself over about 3 months. However I did cheat and get a recon stripped engine in, which saved me loads of time but did cost a small fortune!! Although not a huge amount more than rebuilding it yourself if you price up all the bits and the work you would need to send out for. The painting (I did get a few bits powder coated as-well), cleaning (lots of it) and bolting all the bits back together I did myself. I am however sort or rebuilding the whole car car before moving to Kenya for work. If your interested I have started a build thread but havent really got to any interesting bits yet... For Land Rover engine's the best place to go in my opinion is 'Turner Engineering'. They however only supply a stripped engine (or even less if you want). I'm not sure who you would go to for a complete ready to drop in engine... probably ask a garage to bolt all the bits to a Turner engine! Have a look at their website for prices if you dare Oh and I finally got my radiator/intercooler fitted this evening, its looking like a car again And I vote black for the window trim!

Thanks ARRRRRRRRR its a Land Rover!! Are you running higher output headlamps? As I think on 200tdi's (certainly on mine, but its older) the high current actually flows through the switch and there is no factory relay so if you up rate the headlamps to draw more current the switch may not be rated for that, causing it to burn out quickly. I wouldn't worry about the boost/vacuum gauge. You'll find most boost gauges also have a vacuum bit, It's for petrol engine and we don't need it, but it won't do any harm. My range of gauges didn't even offer a gauge without the vacuum bit.

Have you tried hitting the spanner with a hammer whist yanking on the belt to get it as tight as possible? You can transmit a lot more force through 'impulse' and I find a few strong taps usually loosens it! Otherwise I'm not too sure on a 300. On the 200 the pulley its mounted to there is a hole you can stick a screwdriver or similar into if it's really stuck - I'm not sure if the 300 has similar!? Oh and squirt plenty of plusgas or whatever on the nut, every little helps! In extreme cases I have actually gone as far to remove the whole waterpump and and clamp the pulley in a vice... Jack.

Hi Paul, Well done getting your hydraulics sorted your right it is amazing how they slowly deteriorate over time! I spent the evening trying to sort out my rad and bigger intercooler but did't quite finish... another job for tomorrow! Unfortunately no, I don't know that particular thread size, I think its probably the only one on the whole engine I don't know! I did however manage to get a set of callipers across it for you; 10.20mm diameter so it isn't a standard metric thread. I didn't want to unscrew it as when I had my turbo rebuilt it looks as if it were replaced with some sort of glue/locktite and its bloody tight, thought it might break off trying to get it out! If you can get yours out you can buy a thread pitch gauge pretty cheaply and check, though It could one of many different various thread types so you may need a few sets! (I only have a metric one, cost about £2.50) so I'd just take it to a local engineering shop and they will be able to tell you what it is. Here it is and where I measured: As I was leaving that thing in, this is what I did for my boost gauge, a little extreme and not exactly how I wanted it, but it should work well, last and it looks quite good. My gauge came with a female 1/8npt adapter which is quite rare so I fitted this adapter with some stainless over-braid brake pipe: Ideally I wanted to use the proper 'dash' style connectors for all the fittings but due to odd sized ended up with hose tails and worm-drive clips in some places, but i have so much to do on this bloody thing I couldn't bring myself to waste any more time on making my plumbing look good! If you want to do it this way (although it would be neater I think to remove that adaptor screw like you want to) just ask and I can give you all the different hose tail sizes, there are more than you think!! Your interior certainly is smart!! I do quite like the blue theme and tbh any theme is pretty good, mine was getting a bit too mismatched and when I finally get round to the interior I will try and theme it, but no where near as far as you have gone. The Td5 dash is a smart upgrade, are you going to to the binnacle mont bit in the Td5 style as-well? On the blue theme, I took that to my engine though, got all the brackets and pulleys powder coated in 5002 'electric blue':

Have you had a chance to have a quick look Spearos??

Yep, I'm still impressed with them, the access you get is amazing and they fit perfectly. I've fitted the other wing as well now and finished clipping the brake line. I had done it like this before but no chance that was going to fit!! They came from Douglass Motors, but i don't think they made them - possibly a large supplier, but I have no idea who. Either way I would avoid that style or tubular turrets - they look very similar to other unbranded turrets on eBay.

Yeah, the madamn is tempting, I'd like to know how you get on with it! Can you buy it here or do you need to import it from SA? Haha, liking your blue style! I have tried to keep a reasonably common theme in the cab so everything doesn't look cobbled together but nowhere as detailed as yours! Photo??

certainly does!

Well my Gwyn Lewis turrets arrived today and I fitted them. They are indeed solid, my fears of them being too weak have certainly been put to rest, they are great and don't foul anything at all. In the end I only had enough time to put pone wing on so here are the photos: Thanks for all the help everybody

No worries Paul. Yep Land Rover can be quite mad on prices for some things! Hmm, I also would like a clock, havent bought one yet but will probably have both. They are surprisingly expensive though! Interesting you should bring up the Madman as I havent heard much about them. Saying that I did look into them a bit when deciding what to fit and they look great! However in the end I decided to go for individual systems, some of which I'll design myself! I don't know much about them though but understand you still have some DIYing with the senders in order for all the functions to work, if I remember correctly! I have however fitted an engine watchdog for a second engine temp and alarm feature, this also controls my aux electric fan. My oil pressure gauge has a built in alarm, I will make my own low coolant alarm using a RangeRover expansion tank cap For a battery monitor, Im going to have dual batteries and dual alternators, I'm toying with the idea of this: http://www.xantrex.com/power-products/power-accessories/linklite-battery-monitor.aspx It has the facility for a low voltage alarm and also a cut-off. It also will measure current in and out of both battery banks so pretty much does everything battery/charging related! Jack.

No worries Spearos. Yep, if the gearbox output/main shaft is damaged/worn you need to replace it, which means disassembling the gearbox and if your going to go that far it may as-well be rebuilt! Fortunately however having damaged splines on your input get does not always mean your gearbox output shaft is damaged. In that photo above the input gear splines were worn (slightly) but the gearbox output shaft was fine. I'm not sure of the shaft is of a harder material or not, but reckon if its bad they are probably both fecked! Another very quick handbrake check is to rotate the drum. For a quick test you dont even need bother jacking anything up, put the box in neutral, disengage the handbrake, lean under the car and rotate the handbrake drum back and forth. It wont rotate all the way around if all wheels are on the ground however if its bad you will feel it sticking in the 45degrees or so it will rotate. If its sticks yank the cable or pivot thing where the cable connects and see if it frees it up. If its stuck this will work 99% of the time. After you yank the cable the drum should move freely for the 45degrees and in the cab the handbrake lever should now sit at the lowest position without the springy resistance. If you then don't use the handbrake hopefully you wont get the juddering. When you use the handbrake it will get stuck again! This happened to me and I must have driven for about 6months without using the handbrake until I fixed it properly! This isnt a conclusive test but if time is tight worth doing as it may find your problem. If it doesn't a better test is with the T-box in neutral jack up a rear wheel and rotate the hand brake drum to test for sticking. Remember with the prop-shaft still connected you will feel viscous drag of the rear axle and diff, which is not sticking. Best of all whip off the rear prop and repeat! Jack

Thanks Mav, The D44 ones look great and I considered them but the fitting put me off. Tbh there is nothing really wrong with gen ones, especially as you can get galv gen ones!

Yeah, again similar to me, I just ignored the handbrake. Its a very basic drum and shoe design and sometime the shoes (when the mechanism is old and full of gunk) don't get pulled in properly meaning they rub the drum slightly when the handbrake is 'off'. A good test which takes 10seconds is when you release the handbrake does to go all the way down and sit there, or does it sort of have a bit of springy resistance and not sit all the way down? If it does sit all the way down it still could be the handbrake, but if it doesn't sit all the way down there is a much higher chance it's the handbrake as it isn't disengaging properly. You would notice the problem when moving slowly especially when coasting and changing speed quickly, ie what you describe! Re transfer box input gear, yes it's the gear that receives drive from the main gearbox. On older models (I'm not sure when the cut off is) the splines of the gear suffered lack of lubrication b/c oil couldn't get there. LR later solved this problem by cross-drilling the gear so oil could reach the splines. You can fit the later gear however due to the nature of the problem if the splines on the gear are damaged your gearbox output shaft would probably also be damaged basically meaning a rec-con gearbox!!! Here are some photos of the gear, you can see where the gearbox shaft fits into it. This was my old non crossdrilled gear and you can see the red paste stuff inside on the splines which is not a good sign of oil starvation. The gear itself is not damaged. Lets hope it's the handbrake, which it sounds like it is!

Hi, having recently fitted an oil pressure (1/8npt) and temp gauge with keeping the original low pressure switch I ended up with this. I did not use the genuine LR adapter though so can't directly answer your question, but any standard motorsport adapter fits rather neatly. The engine is now fitted to the car and the senders are well out of the way from possible off-road damage. The tapped hole that the factory low pressure switch fits into is M10*1 and the other larger tapped hole is M16*1.5 here are two photos of what I achieved with the standard 'motorsport' adapters, IIRC i got the adapter on ebay from JJC Race & Rally for about a tenner. RE expected oil pressure; I havent yet started the engine as im mid-way through a re-build, but when I fitted mine I did a bit of research on the topic and came up with a max expected oil pressure of about 65psi. It will vary quite a lot though depending on a lot of factors. The pressure will drop as the engine warms up and the oil gets thinner but it shouldn't drop too far below about 20psi under reasonable load. But This is from my reading not experience with the 200tdi so I'm sure somebody else will confirm or disprove me! Also it would be interesting to see what readings you get when its all fitted!

I'm glad to hear good things about Gwyns, Thanks everybody for your advice. I have no have a pair on there way to me bit more expensive than what it says on their website though! I'll post some photos when they are fitted later this week. Daan, I'm sure I could make them fit with tool No. 1 but I dont like the idea of mangling my inner wing! Especially when I'm sold a product that supposedly fits, I didn't expect to have to modify the wing to get it in.. Maybe thats just me!! I'm going to try and send them back now but I'm not hopeful I'll get my money back esp as they got quite scratched forcing the inner wing over them... Oh right, are you doing that on a S3 though, you must have even less room than in Defenders! Thanks for your comments about it being tidy, I try! I havent really thought about a build thread but as you mention it I could do one, It'l be a bit back-dated to start with, but I have plenty of photos so I'll start one when Ive got some time in the evenings. It's nothing special mind!