jackbw28

Thanks. Did the rear brake pressure limiter change for different models? I assume it must have to cater for different braking efficiencies depending on rear brake set up? Ie, one designed for rear drums probably will probably have different pressure limiter settings to one designed for rear discs? The same came be said for different vehicles. Does anybody know if this is the case, and if so is there enough difference to warrant changing the device considering going from drums to discs. Thanks again.

yep - do most LR's have them as standard fitment?

About 4 years ago I replaced mine with 2nd hand but good 06 doors off a Td5. They have been good and had little rust when bought. Recently I had them apart again for a respray and I have found rust starting to develop!! Not critical but a bit of a disappointment. Anyway, if you were to go 2nd hand genuine I'd be suggest getting the even later type of door, with a pressed frame and steel skin (you can then also fit the much improved lower door seal). I reckon they are much better with inherently less rust problems. The post 02 (pressed with steel skin) rear door I also got at the same time is still pretty much rust free today. Then you get a genuine door that will fit well - possibly still worth a bit of dintrol under the card though!

I thought I'd add to this post rather than posting another, I hope that's okay as I was just about to ask a related question and it is probably relevant to you : ) Is this what you mean? Or the device for activating the warning light? This is on my rear line and I assume it is the device as described by Briarston My understanding was few vehicles had them fitted, but I am rather unsure. My question is, considering I have significantly changed the rear braking efficiency by changing from drums to discs ('89 110) is it advisable to; keep it, bypass it, replace with one intended for disc brake usage. Thanks all and hope it's alright to post here - can start a new post if need be!

Thanks, Yep I'm aware the box moves in relation to the body and, hopefully, I've left enough space for that. Pic 3 is the floor pan slotted in place uncut showing the need for it to be cut - haven't got round to that yet... I was also wondering if this will cause problems when changing gearbox mounts as I usually jack the box up to drop em so I also wonder if this will restrict that. This may be a better photos of the clearance I gave it : but it's still not a good photo. In reality there is more space around it than shown in the photo - ideally I'd give it loads of room but it's obvious why I can't! I'll measure the point of min clearance tomorrow and see what you think as I'd rather not do it twice.

okay I'll write something up soon

no problem Western, my first tech archive : ) If you do that I could add some more info such as part numbers, thread sizes and how I did the cooler at the front? Yes the standard pipes are rigid - come forwards then under the box before going forward roughly along the LHS of the engine block. They do become flexible for a portion IIRC and I also think there are multiple options depending on what cooler was/is used. I chose to make my own up as I reckon it's simpler and cheaper and allows me to route the pipes where I want.

I could do! Just a bit overkill for an extra inch in the corner. What have yo got under there then?? Managed to fit the cooler and pipes this afternoon - wasn't as bad as i thought Still need to decide exactly how to get it all to fit properly but as you can see from the pics it isn't too bad. Here is the cooler and pipes fitted: the cut out a bit better: the floor needs to be cut a little as can be seen here: and with the tunnel in place you can hardly notice it! All I will probably do is bring the fixings on the floor outwards a bit and space the tunnel so it fits at a slight angle as opposed to vertical. Doubt I'll need to make a cover plate or anything But won't be doing that for a couple of weeks as need to lay a couple more cables before I get all the floor back in

Thanks all once again. I have decided to chop my existing seatbox and not try and adapt it to fit a later tunnel. Reason being I will have to adapt both sides of the seatbox and the floors to get the later tunnel to fit. I will also have to source and wait for a new tunnel to arrive (with Christmas delay etc). Also my matting won't fit well over the different seat box, nor will my MUD tray that sits on top of that. I'm also in a rush now to get this back on the road as I plan to be driving out of the country soon! If I chop my existing set up I only really have one corner to deal with and I'm sure I can make a half decent ally cover for the hole I make. This means only one bit of trimming for my matting and everything else remains the same. It's also the cheaper option - I've spent far too much on this car already!! But thanks for all your help - I did have a good look at the earlier tunnel idea this morning, but it's still not plug and play (as you say the s/box need a bit of modding). The only 'proper' way to do it is to replace the whole lot and as much as I like doing things as 'properly' as possible I don't think thats worth it for what will be a small bulge in that lower corner! I'm surprised nobody else has had to do this though! Perhaps they thought ahead Thanks again - I'll post some pics when it's all done, though that will be a while probably. I'm going to cut it now and fit the cooler now then I'll have to wait until I'm ready to fit all the floor back in before I make the cover, so sometime in the early new year I reckon! Jack.

no no, I expected simply fitting the adapter and securing the pipes to take an hour, before I realised the seatbox/tunneel etc had to be chopped up. It'll probably take a bloody week now!! By my makings the g/box & t/case sit approx 4cm further forward on a 300tdi as opposed to a 2000tdi. It all gets a bit confusing (to me anyways), but the 300tdi engine sits much further forward due to the longer bell housing. I found all this out during my axle swap and finding a suitable prop. Thanks for the info regarding the floor plates and bulkhead. just to clarify, does the 300tdi tunnel come in two parts then? I thought post 200 the tunnel was one unit that affixed to the bulkhead whereas mine are two bits... I'll look into this some more, seems like it could very well be a better route than chopping mine to bits.

Yep the 300/td5 tunnel is indeed wider. I could possibly alter the front of the seatbox to take the later tunnel - but not sure how that would marry up to the bulkhead, which is also respectively different on the different vehicles (at least I think). Ideally I would indeed swap the entire seatbox for a later type. I didn't think a simple oil cooler would cause such a problem - mounting the cooler at the front was a right pain when I did that a few months ago!! Otherwise I would have planned to do that before I did the battery boxes as wiring. Realistically I won't be able to swap the boxes now - even if I did, I think I'd still have a problem at the bulkhead end... The battery boxes are rather complex and include a significant amount of wiring and sealing that took me ages to do - I just don't have the time to re-do all that now! Although i don't like the idea of cutting the seatbox either. aux battery box pics to show why I am reluctant to swap seatbox now... The other side is equally as complex but mostly with pneumatic stuff. So i'll have a look at fitting later tunnel (anybody know if bulkhead is different?) or resign myself to some chopping. I'd probably chop a chunk out of the box and tunnel then fab up a bit of ally to go over the hole and rivnut that on. I do have a wright off-road floor mat to cover up that awful paint - but that would also need trimming to fit the new bit. It's just a pretty akward place too cut really - so much for what I had planned as an hours job!!

Here are the photos, 1st pic is of the seat box and g/box. Arrow shows the boss/face that the cooler adapter attaches to - note it sticks out quite far out off the casing (I couldn't even get it all in the picture). 2nd pic of the cooler adapter sticking through. However this is a deceptive picture as it appears as if the adapter almost fits. However the adapter is not sitting on the boss in this image - it is impossible to get the adapter to sit on the boss and clear the seat box at all. In this photo the adapter is also much higher than it would sit if it were mounted correctly. 3rd pic A very rough marking of what needs to go on the seatbox. Then I have the tunnel to chop up afterwards I s'pose...

Oh right, I thought you had the cooler! I wish that would do it. but it appears to need an extra inch clearance which I'm not sure a hammer would do. Will have another look tomorrow. I'll get those pictures up just now

Hello all, After getting my axles all sorted (thanks again) I am finally getting round to fitting the floors back in and driving off. However... I have an R380 with the stumpy bell housing mated to a genuine def 200tdi in my '89 110. I have fitted a g/box oil cooler and everything at the front end is done, cooler is mounted, front panel re-fitted, and pipes routed back to the cab awaiting cutting and fitting to the gearbox oil cooler adapter. This morning I removed the bypass block thing that was there (took ages due to a rounded bolt head...) and then tried to fit the cooler adapter (pretty sure its FTC2687) - no chance! I knew it would be tight and that it might not fit - I went to great lengths to get the genuine adapter (very very expensive new and very very rare secondhand) as it appeared a lot slimmer than the Ashcroft unit, but it still fouls the seatbox quite badly... So I am going to have to cut the seatbox, swapping a 300tdi box in there is out of the question really as I have already done a huge amount of work with the battery boxes on both sides to house my extra batteries, compressor and a few other bits. My question is, after a lot of googling and searching, I have not come across much information on this issue - but gather a few people are running this set up. For those that are, any ideas on how to re-fab the box, floor and transmission tunnel? any pictures or ideas on how to go about it would be greatly appreciated - it looks like quite a lot of work to get a decent, good looking, result. Thanks again, Jack. I'll go out and get some pictures in a minute.

Just a final update to this post, Regarding rear prop length and gearbox position the location of the 300tdi box has certainly moved in relation to the 200tdi. You were all right As a result a Td5 prop will not fit a 200tdi setup with a puma style rear axle. In the end I decided to have a bailey morris hd prop made up to the correct length. A bit more expensive than a td5 prop but it has nice big spiders and sliding joint which is nice. Out of interest the working length for the rear prop of this set-up is 1120mm. So a Td5 prop is slightly too long and a 300tdi prop slightly too short. Thanks for everybody's help in getting all this sorted.

Thanks everybody thats perfect. I do indeed have a 110 axle. I'll still ask a dealer if they can provide any manufacturing info on the axle out of interest. Excellent news!

Hello all again, Just to update - I've finished the front axle rebuild and fitted a puma rear axle - all has gone well so far. For information Puma axle was a straight swap regarding A-frame and trailing arms. As for the propshaft, I measured 105.4cm with the sals still fitted, unladen, level ground etc. Yet to measure with the new axle as springs not yet fitted... However, quick question. How exactly can I confirm the axle I just fitted is indeed a puma 110 axle. It looks pretty new so i don't doubt it's age, but is there anything to prove its off a 110 and not a 90? Obviously it was sold as a 110 axle, I just want to double check. I have the axle number but don't know what prefix was used for the 110 - does anybody know this? Also is there a way I can check with LR for a manufacture date or just any more info regarding the axle - just to put my mind to rest. Thanks again

My CV has the 'final' part of the shaft as an integral part of the CV. The other side is internally splined to accept the halfhsaft, which in turn is held in place by a little clip and collar. Sorry, being stupid here! Yes - that looks about right. The only thing that isnt is the circlip and shim shown on the inside (diff) end of that shaft. Unless it's actually inserted the other way round? And yes its that circlip and collar (shim) I'm having an 'issue' with... Here are some pictures: Okay even one pic was too big to upload, I'll do it elsewhere and sort a link a bit later!

Okay - I might be being slow here, but that is a halfhsaft not a CV??

Um not sure what 606662 is... Google threw up a halfshaft part no! I'm using standard early type (apparently stronger that the later type) AEU2522 CVs. yeah from looking at it I cant see that it's especially important - and now I've managed to keep the bloody clip anyways so I'll whack it back on tomorrow and get on with it! Still think the part should fit properly though - expensive! Also just seen your sig, you seem to know a bit about diffs! I asked a question about setting one up with the new ATB last week and the consensus was get a pro to do it. If you can manage a rear late (puma) diff build with a locker in the next couple of weeks I'll PM you for a quote. Thanks

Hi All, Hopefully just a quick confirmation from anybody, I'm in the process of rebuilding my front axle off a 1989 110. I have replaced the diff centre with an Ashcroft ATB, this has 24 splines as opposed to the 10 splines my old diff centre had. I'm sticking with new but standard CV joints (earlier type) that have 23 splines. So I needed a 23/24 spline shaft - there is no Land Rover shaft of this arrangement as the later 24spline LR diffs were fitted with the later type CV that had 32 splines. I simply bought Ashcroft 23/24 spline HD shafts, I now get a nice strength increase as-well This weekend I planned to fit the lot, however I have run into a small problem. As you know the CV joint is 'retained' on the h-shaft by a 'circlip' and a collar fitted to the shaft prevents the shaft from moving 'into' the CV joint itself. Now I fitted the new cv to the Ashcrofts shaft as per the book. However the circlip never opened again - the CV could still slide off the shaft after being bushed right up against the collar. The ashcroft shaft is of a slightly different design to the standard one. The length of the splines section is much longer - and it is supplied with a much longer collar to compensate. However, on the RHS only, this collar (after much measuring) is overcompensating (by just under 2mm) - thus the CV is not fully engaged on the shaft. I do not have a lathe to machine the new ashcrofts collar. However I do have a few 'spare' standard collars - these are 9.48mm thick. The ashcrofts collar is 32.98mm thick - and 1.96mm too thick. What I want to do is use 3 standard collars - this gives a total thickness of 28.08mm - so the CV now engages fully on the shaft. However there is now a bit of endfloat play, 2.90mm, to be precise. My question is, does anybody see a problem with this play? There is near enough no play as standard fitment (well under 1.0mm anyways). I don't see a problem with this - The CV joint cannot move outwards as the circlip is engaged and present, also the CV is up against the bronze bush in the stub axle. The CV cant move inwards the 2.90mm as the shims and circlip on the outer end of the CV (after the drive flange) will prevent this. The only thing that can move by 2.9mm is the halfshaft and I don't think the shaft moving into the CV by 2.9mm is going to cause any problems that it would if it could move further in. I also see no problem with the shaft being able to move by 2.9mm diff or CV end - will this cause accelerated wear of the splines or anything? Is there anything I have missed that could cause a problem? I will get onto Ashcrofts in the morning and see what they say - but whatever they do say, getting a new collar is going to take a few days, and I'm pushed for time as it is!! I really need the car back on the road very soon and, unfortunately, cant wait a couple of says for every little snag, especially if there are no adverse effects of taking the shortcut! Also If anybody has heard of something similar I'd be interested to know as this seems a bit odd to me! But I did triple check the measurements... Sorry for yet another long post, Jack.

Oh I see, so the standard frame could still fit. Anyways after looking at a few axles online, it looks as if getting one with the frame and trailing arms isn't a problem so I'll just see how it goes when I get one. Thanks again for the info

Thanks Don, Indeed, its a sad sight seeing so many land cruisers cluttering up the roads these days! Even most of my friends have now turned over to the 'dark side'... Reliability issues aside I think Land Rover would have maintained a larger market share in Africa and Aus if they fitted a larger engine to the defender, the 2.5litre turbo diesels land rover fit just don't compare to the 3litre + V6 diesels (and bigger on the premium models) Toyota fit... Anyways I s'pose this sort of chat is for a different place - not too sure about forum rules/etiqete! Oh wow - that sounds like a great trip - 31,000kms - shows the sheer size of place! as an estimate I'm expecting about the same but driving across Europe and down eastern side of the African continent! And I second you on rubber being a problem - In addition to what you say I find standard bushes don't last very long with constant gravel road/track driving. Wasn't polybush started by a bloke in Africa fed up of changing bushes so frequently. Thanks for the gd luck.

Hi Don, No need for sorry, I do understand your point. And i've been thinking about this all year whilst re-building the rest of the car. The main point in doing the rebuild is to have a vehicle that is mechanically as sound as can be for, primarily, reliability's sake. I know a bit about Africa being from there and after this trip I'm staying there - essentially I'm moving back home after 9yrs in the UK and decided to have a little 'holiday' before starting a new job out there. I intend to keep the car once I'm there so I'm also using the time whilst I'm here with parts and technical help readily available (and much much cheaper - note import duties, shipping etc) to 'do her up' how I want her to be. Obviously I really don't want the hassle of a breakdown - all this work is to minimise the chance of that - and I know the consequences! But I also know roughly what to expect, having had plenty of experience driving Africa in the past and maintaing a vehicle there. So I understand it may seem odd in ditching the sailsbury axle, but this is my thinking:- I've only ever had salisbury axles on my current and previous Land Rovers - and they are good, have been (mostly) reliable. However I would like to improve the 'off road' ability of the car a bit - with the addition of a full locker in the rear axle and LSD in the front. I know this isn't necessary for an overland expedition - but part of me always wants do something a bit more challenging/stupid than is absolutely needed, this has left me wanting an axle locker a fair few times. Additionally, even if not used on the trip down, it will certainly be used on weekend excursions once back. I think replacing my 10-spline 2-pin diff with a much stronger Ashcroft lsd (standard ring & pinion, CV, etc) in the front will give me better handling on 'relatively' fast gravel roads, help off-road and whilst not improve the strength of the whole axle, wont reduce reliability either. Regarding the rear - I'm not planning on keeping the standard internals of the puma axle I obtain (well I could bring em as spares I s'pose!). It will receive a stronger locking diff, HD shafts, HD ring & pinion gear and HD drive flanges. The objective here is to improve the total strength of the axle and improve off-road ability. The reason I don't install a locker in the sals axle is the reduced aftermarket locker options and the fact that the Salisbury is much harder to service if something does go wrong with it. I had a failed sals axle in the UK approx 2 years ago and the most sensible/cheapest thing to do was just replace the whole thing as dropping the diff is much more of a hassle than on a rover-type axle. Also I want to upgrade to discs on the rear - with buying a relatively new puma axle I get newish disc brakes. I know i could get a 300tdi 110 sals axle with discs, but by now they are sure to need work/replacing, due to age, and that adds more cost since the 2nd hand price of buying either axle is pretty much the same at the moment! Also I could retrofit discs onto my current axle but its just cheaper and simpler to have it all done with relatively new genuine parts 'out of the box'. The only problem to reliability I then see, is the axle casing itself bending or similar. This is a risk I'm willing to take, as I just don't think it happens all that often despite hearing the odd story. Perhaps if I saw it first hand it might change my mind! By now I know of a few non-sals 110 running in Africa with no major rear axle issues. And of-course I've heard a few complaints as-well - much the same as the bloke you mentioned in Aus. At the end of the day, I want a full locker and disc brakes on the rear. For the trip and just to have! The simplest and, almost, cheapest way to do this is to fit a puma axle - in doing the axle mods, despite all the non-standard parts (but fully interchangeable with standard parts) I think the axle will be pretty strong and very reliable considering it will effectively be new. And finally if it were to fail, Africa isn't as remote as it used to be or as I sometimes wish it to be! With the Chinese funding new roads, a strong economy, growing middle class etc getting stuff moved about is not too bad anymore! In-fact i'd like to do central Aus at some point as I reckon it will be a lot more remote than a lot of Africa!! Thanks for your input in the discussion and I hope you can 'sort of' see my point! Jack

Thanks Ralph, they look like a good outfit, I'll give 'em a ring in the morning and get a quote.