michael100

Cheers Mark, will have a go and see if thats the prob, will buy some strapping and make good an earth connection to body and the battery via the gearbox and engine , thanx

John, I replaced my thermostat just as I was servicing my Disco and the difference in heat output and quickness of heating the cab was significant. The gauge sits a little higher ( midway ) as opposed to always staring downwards too. I am going to take out the viscous fan and see if that makes any difference, I just do not see the point of the engine cooling itself with the fan as its trying to warm up at the same time. Will fit an electric fan instead. Cheers.

Recently, I stripped away the centre console for another successful job and while the centre console was out of the car, I noticed that the cabe/ rod that goes through the tunnel to the handbrake assembly gets rather on the hot side. I have not noticed this because I have had the centre console on but it is quite alarming the temperature of this cable / rod. I do not have any probs with the handbrake, it will hold on a steep hill and free itself when handbrake is released. Is it normal for this cable to be so hot ? after a while the heat from the cable transfers onto the bare handbrake lever and you can actually feel the heat coming from the brakes. It is definitely not binding or stuck, any comments ? thank you

Cheers for the fast reply there Pete ! I do not think that this sensor was wired as the wiring was very badly connected but i suppose it could have been connected enough ! Is there any problem leaving it off for now or am i better renewing the connection with new spade connectors asap ? thanx again

Today I lifted the soundproofing off the top of the engine on my 300tdi and underneath the soundproofing there is a screw type sensor ( coloured blue in picture ) that screws into the head and the wire to it was rusty and freyed. Can anyone tell me what this sensor does ? I have included a picture if thats any help. Thanx

I know I am going to get a lot of stick with this comment but here goes........if its going to take so long to change a bulb, why not let Halfrauds change it for £4.99 ? I certainly wouldnt be messing around with something that took me two hours + when I can get the numpty at Halfrauds to do it for a fiver. I know they aint the most competent bunch but surely, surely they can change a bulb.

Yeah, thats exactly what I will be doing, i cant see any reason for them so they are going ! I was wondering if these would be good access points to spray waxoyl into the chassis but I will poke around and see where they lead to and probably blank them off, thanx mate

The grommets are actually on the boot floor panel roughly at each corner . I took one off and they are not even threaded. I wonder if they are access grommets for something and maybe should leave them alone rather than block them off but there is a fair bit of rust accumulating round each one. I will wait and see if anyone knows if its safe to blank them off permanently. Thanx

Anyone any ideas why these 4 grommets on the inside of the floor pan are there ? There is a bit of build up of rust around them and would quite happy to see them taken away and closed over. But usually things are there for a reason. any ideas ? thanx

Hi there, If you are replacing the sterring column lock ( which comes with the ignition barrel ) then it is a very simple job. If you undo the cowling behind the steering wheel you will see the steering lock which is held in place by 2 sheer bolts . These bolts can be easily removed with a chisel or a punch and then the column lock will come off in 2 parts. just unclip the wire harness plug and refit the new one in reverse. The whole mechanism costs around £30 ish. Hope that helps.

Cheers Al for the advice. I always do the underside as often as I can so thats not a worry for me. I came across a few tins of Hammerite ( direct to rust ) paint and wondered if this would be any good. It just says to wire brush the flakes of rust and spray direct onto the rust ! Guaranteed for 5 years ! Since I have plenty in the garage I wondered if this would be any good. I also found a small tin of rust remover so maybe if I applied this to the rusty little bits first then painted with Hammerite I could be onto a winner. Any comments on this idea ? thanx guys

Helo Guys. I have just taken out the seats and carpets etc to inspect the whole floor of my Disco and the whole lot looks good. There are a few little surface pieces of rust particularly round the grommets. The boot floorpan is in good condition too. I would just like to know if theres anything I could apply to the inside of the floor to keep it in the same condition. The odd piece of soundproofing foam was wet in places and I thought if I could also protect the inside of the floor as well as the outside then theres a better chance of preventing the rust. I was thinking of Waxoyl but if anyone has and other ideas I would be grateful if you could share. Michael

Hi Jim, Yeah you are absolutely correct, if I was trying to keep the brake discs then I would have problems,.........i smashed 3/4 of the actual braking disc in the process of trying to separate the disc / hub ! Like you said though, there would be no other reason to split them other than to renew, thanx again. p.s. The Haynes Manual makes the disc change daunting, just like every other problem that I encounter, I prefer to come here and see how its really done, cheers all !

Cheers Andy for the fast reply, I just sprayed the joint with our friend WD40 and had a coffee and then used a little more force then before and voila, they separated easily enough. I am quite heavy handed at times and thought at first I was maybe bashing the hell out it but on second thoughts, maybe I was too " lenient " with it but it is all back together and working fine, thanx again

Hello, Anyone got any ideas how to separate the brake disc from the hub ( 300 tdi ) ? I have the hub and disc removed and also removed the 14mm splined bolts ( 5 ) but the hub and disc will not split. I understand the rust, grime etc will be holding it together but just how much force is required to separate them ? Many Thanx.

Hello There, First of all, prise of the square cover on the top of the gearknob then remove the circlip immediately in view then remove the spacer under the circlip. Remove the locker button from the side of the gear lever. You will then see a locking clip and a nut, remove these and the gearknob will lift off. Hope that helps.

Hello Guys, I am wondering how easy it is to replace heater matrix in this vehicle. Both footwells are really soaked and theres a loss of coolant so I am confident that it is the matrix. I am hoping I do not need to remove the complete dash to refit a new matrix but any information would be helpful. Thank you

does anyone know the weight of an r380 gearbox ? I am selling one and the courier wants to know the weight. I am thinking its about the 60 - 70 kg mark but maybe someones posted one before and knows the weight for sure, thanx

Cheers for the info guys, checked oil first thing and all was fine, registering between the two markers.

I can make out " do not overfill " on the dipstick but nothing else. Left it for 2 hours, checked it and it still is not that clear as to whether theres enough in it or not. Will wait till the morning and try again.

Can anyone tell me if the engine should be idling when checking the auto gearbox oil level. I have heard this is the correct the way to check it but I do not understand the reason for the engine to be idling. Many Thanks.

Hi, Can anyone tell me if I need to remove the viscous fan in order to fit a new water pump or can the fan be left in situ. Thanx

Hi, I bought the bar from Ebay a few years ago and like you, had not seen anything like it before. I added the angel eye spotlights afterwards. All together it wasnt cheap but I am sure it will last. Cheers Michael

Thought I would take a few pics of my Disco and post them for all to see. Comments Please.