SolihullBeast

Thanks for the input, but what I am actually looking to do is just fit standard 300tdi lamps, not td5 lamps, the td5 lamps look like a lot more work! I don't think there is any wiring involved when fitting standard 300 lamps is there? Cheers Sam

I would like to convert the old tired front end of my disco 200 to the 300 style (headlamps, headlamp finishers, grille etc) does anyone if there is a technical thread on this anywhere? is it a big job? I am aware that the headlamp box will have to be modified, are there any other things I should be aware of? Many Thanks Sam

Just Inquiring as to the largest tyre size that a standard discovery 1 can accommodate without the need to trim the wheel arches? I am considering putting on 265/75 BFG AT's will these fit, or would they rub the chassis? is there any benefit in using wheel spacers? Many Thanks Sam

Just discovered the technical archives today for the first time! Spent about an hour trawling through a gold mine of info! But the topic that caught my eye was this; http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=31 From what I gather it seems like a fairly simple way to improve performance, and the inner boy racer in me is getting excited. So I searched around the forums to find out more and a lot of people who have done the modification are really pleased with the results. But before I start tweaking things I was wondering if there were any drawbacks to adjusting the injector pump, i.e If I were to adjust my injector pump diaphragm 90 degrees clockwise(nb.and not touch any other parts of the injector pump), will it have any negative effects such as engine damage? turbo damage? what are the effects on mpg? Is it worth it? common opinion online seems to suggest so. Has anyone done it and had problems? I hope this is not a labored topic, as always I searched around the forum before asking. Cheers Sam

Cirencester, Gloucestershire

Cheers, I think im going to go for bearmach then, If I can sell the old ones that is!

After Many topics and a lot of thought I have decided to remove my 2 inch lift on my discovery 200tdi, as it will essentially be used on the road for 80% time now. And I am considering the following options 1. Refitting the old springs(factory fitted genuine land rover, 1993) 2. Fitting new pattern part springs 3. Fitting brand new genuine land rover springs I have a few questions; is the case that older springs sag badly on discovery's as they are heavy? and I have heard that non-genuine springs begin to sag quite quickly? Is it worth getting new genuine springs for the sake of handling? Is there a noticeable difference? Which options would people recommend? Additionally I will be removing 4 Heavy duty +2" terrafirma coil springs, do these have a second hand value? they have only been fitted to the vehicle for half a year, so are not particularly old, or do they depreciate as fast as the vehicle!? I hope this is not a labored topic, I did search the forum and have spoken to a few people but some more input would be great Cheers Sam Just had a look at these http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/OFF%5FROAD/Coil%5FSprings%5Fand%5FKits/Britpart%5FStandard%5FHeight%5FYellow%5FCoil%5FSprings%5F%28pair%29%5F%2D%5FFront%5F225lbs%2Finch.html any thoughts? I have heard people refer to britpart as "****part"! should I be careful?

Cheers for all the input, based on the finance required to solve this issue and the fact that the vehicle rarely sees mud I have decided to refit standard suspension. Is there any benefit of fitting new standard springs over second hand ones? I am aware they sag and this affects handling. Should I avoid pattern part springs and stick to genuine land rover ones? Sam

Like many land rover novices have done, I fitted a 2 lift kit to my Discovery (200tdi 93) but neglected to consider the implications on castor and propshaft vibration. After much trawling forums and calls to specialists I have established the following; the best option to correct the castor is castor corrections swivels, however they are very difficult to source. Ideally I wanted to use the swivels in conjunction with standard radius arms bent at the chassis end to reduce stress on the bush. So I am now at the point where I am thinking the best option in radius arms bent at both ends to correct castor and reduce stress on the bush, Used in conjunction with a double cardan propshaft to reduce the almost inevitable vibration the arms will cause. (I have been told that a wide angle propshaft simply allows for the angle, but not reduce vibration as the opposing ends are not operating in a parallel fashion). I am also aware that often a 2 inch lift does not cause steering problems, and the problem lies elsewhere, however I have checked out all other variables that may affect the steering and everything looks ok. So to get to the point! I think I need to get hold of a double cardan propshaft, (with grease nipples) and the only place I can find at the moment is QT services and the unit costs £320 with vat and postage! are there any other cheaper options!? I remember a while ago reading you could convert a knackered disco two td5 front prop with new ujs? is this the case? Apologies in advance because I am in no doubt that 2 inch lift topics are well exhausted on the forum , but I am really keen to get this right for once and make a decent job of the lift. Perhaps there is a better option than the arms and propshaft? any thoughts? Cheers Sam

had a go with prybars and it did not budge, and I'm cautious of being heavy handed and cracking the timing cover, looks like im going to have to buy a special pulling tool! I can't make one as I am up at uni with a basic tool kit! Sam

Cheers for the explanation regarding the windy gun, I have learnt something new today! fortunately today has proved a successful day, I did not have to use the starter method! Thanks to all those who suggested putting it in 5th high ratio, the bolt cam off like a charm, cheers for the advice, much appreciated! Now I am faced with the problem of removing the metal disc(not sure what its called) that sits behind the pulley, any ideas? Sam

Answers to the various questions; 1. Yes the helper was definitely pushing the brakes, he knows his pedals! cheers for the input though, you never know! 2. when i say the pushrods are functioning I mean they are moving slightly when it is turned 3. Sorry for my ignorance but I don't know what a Windy Gun is!!? 4. The symptoms that made me suspect that the cambelt had gone were, bent pushrods, fractured and broken rockers and timing belt dust under the airconbelt tensioner cover, but as you say, I am quite possibly wrong Its looking like i am going to have to bite the bullet and try the starter motor method! Much appreciate the input, thanks to all

I am in the process of attempting to remove the timing cover from 200tdi disco, in order to repair suspected broken timing belt, the only remaining thing obstructing its removal is the crankshaft pulley, I am aware the large bolt can be done up very tightly and there are several ways of getting it to undo, 1. use a special/homemade tool to hold the pulley steady whilst the bolt is undone 2. Put the vehicle in difflock low ratio and the main gearbox in 1st and turn the nut against the resistance now created 3. wedge a breaker bar under the front chassis rail and turn the engine over(last resort) In the absence of a special tool to hold the pulley steady, and my reluctance to try the last method(also as the battery is flat!) I have attempted to undo the bolt using the second method, however it has not gone to plan; With the vehicle in the gear setup mentioned above, and pushed until gears give resistance I had a helper depress the brakes and I attempted to undo the bolt however the crankshaft kept turning over as I attempted to undo the bolt as if it was not in gear, so i checked again and pushed the car whilst it was in gear to be absolutely sure it was in gear and it was, the wheels came to a stop when it was pushed. So given the fact it was in gear and the crankshaft bolt would just turn over when I tried to undo it, I came to following conclusion that either the clutch was slipping or the crankshaft itself was broken. Considering the clutch is two months old I assume it is unlikely to slip? and the pushrods move correctly when the engine is turned over manually suggesting the crankshaft is not broken? I am by no means a mechanic, I am a novice lr enthusiast- so if anything I have said here does not make sense, or is incorrect I apologise! Can anyone shed any light on why the crankshaft turns over so easily manually when i try to undo the bolt when in gear? Have I missed something? Many Thanks Sam

I have just fitted a 2 inch terra-firma lift to my 93 discovery 200tdi, however this kit is solely springs and shocks, so as I anticipated it has thrown the self centering off due to the effect on the camber, I am planning to correct this with qt castor corrected radius arms- does anyone know where to find these cheapest? additionally, I am aware that I am likely to experience vibration from the prop-shaft as a result of the correction, I know the usual method of correcting this is a wide angle propshaft, or a double cardan propshaft, however I am a student and both of these options are rather dear! I was curious as to whether a second hand discovery td5 front propshaft would cure the vibration as I notice it has a double cardan? just a thought! Hope somebody can help! With such a wealth of knowledge on these forums I thought this would be the best port of call for advice Cheers Sam

I have been running fedima trialade tyres (a copy of the super boggers) on my disco off road for three years now with no issues, however when I decided to put it back on the road the tyres were an MOT failure as they were not E-marked, and as such were not legal for road use, has the MOT inspector made an error? has anyone else had a similar experience? Several people have told me that trialade should be road legal.. so, is the E-marking in a specific place on the tyre? could he have missed it? In addition to this how far is a wheel allowed to extend from the bodywork? as I am considering wheel spacers Many Thanks Sam

Cheers for the advice Jason, I have also been told that the tdi engines are much more reliable that v8's and now that i know there will be a boost in power compared to the old n/a i think making the decision will be easier, a v8 sounds like alot of risk/hassle! Thanks for the input, i'll keep an eye out ofr a tdi engine

Thanks for all the advice very helpful and much appreciated, i have a few more questions based on what has been said, 1. Will the water succeptability of a v8 be an issue if i'm not planning to do any wading? 2. Is it difficult to find low milage v8's and are they expensive? 3. Is there a huge difference in power between my old 2.5 n/a and a tdi? Cheers Sam

Having almost finished my A-levels i can now devote some long awaited time to my 110 which has been sitting in the farm! I'll get straight to the point, It requires the engine to be changed as the old one has given up the ghost after many happy working years. I am in two minds about which engine to replace the old one with, I have been told by a knowledgeable friend that 200/300 tdi is the way to go. The vehicle will only really be used for off road work, playing around in the fields and occasional road driving. It is for this reason I am tempted by a V8, I am told they are relatively cheap to find second hand and can be converted to fit defenders easily and would prove better off road. Any suggestions as to which would be the best choice, the old engine was a 2.5 n/a diesel and was very sluggish.Is there anything else i need to take into consideration? Sorry if this question is asked alot, I would be grateful for any opinions as i know most users of the forum have alot of experience. Cheers Sam

Having decided to convert my 110 to a 100" i have been told I will need to scrap the old 110 fuel tank and fit a 90 fuel tank under the drivers side undercarriage , being a fairly novice mechanic how is this done? are a any common problems with doing this? what type of tank (part number) will I need? is there a bracket available? Sorry if this question is asked a lot on the forum, I haven't found a recent topic about it, any advice would be great, Cheers Sam

anyone know where I can find relatively cheap OME shocks and springs? any particularly good dealers? Cheers

Hi looking for some advice on quality kit! I have wanted to improve the suspension on my 110 for a while as the factory shocks are nearly dead and coils have seen better days, as I have started doing a fair bit of off roading/trialling etc. I have decided to go for something heavy duty. I have been convinced by a freind and expreinced off roader that dislocation cones were gimmicks and served very little purpose. Im searching for a company or brand that does heavy duty high quality shocks and springs, does anyone of anywhere? I have been told koni, pro-comp and rough county are all good makes? Also considering lifting the suspension by 2" Do lift kits really help when off roading or are they a hinderance? Any advice would be great

avoid the n/a diesel, from my experience very sluggish gutless engines, especially off road Sam

Thankyou all for your help, upon checking the hydraulic system I noticed the rubber pipe connecting to the slave cylinder has worn away where it touched the chassis causing a leak, and the fact that there was no clutch fluid in the resevoir obviosly means it was a leak, so i presume i need to replace the pipe, then top up the fluid, is there any priming process necessary?

I apologise in advance if this question has been asked on a regular basis. I am fairly new to land rovers and how to diagnose problems so i would be grateful for any advice.. The Problem: when driving across a field in my 110 I depressed the clutch to chage gear and lowered revs only to find that the car juddered whilst the clutch was depressed as if it were not engaged then it proceeded to stall, after alot of confusion and attempts to get moving the clutch responded in the same way, there was no resistance to the pedal up until the very last push, i have been told by a freind that my clutch has "gone" does the mean the assembly has broken or the hydraulic system is broken? sorry if this question seems stupid like i said im new to mechanics, so please any advice would be great,

I have never bought anything from them, however I did email them, it took a long time but eventually they replied!