jimmy_neutron
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Posts posted by jimmy_neutron
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I have an 07 defender that does not have a centre seat, I dont think think Land Rover have been putting centre seats in for some time now. I am guessing that they dont fit them anymore becuase they either want to sell the seat as an option or a nice cubby box instead of the centre tray.
Currently I have a nice cubby box that I dont really want to take out but I have a need quite often to transport 5 passengers, the wife and 3 kids. It would be nice if we could all fit in the Land Rover.
Does anybody know if there are any law implications with me fitting a centre seat (plenty on ebay from the cubby box converters)?
I also plan to fit a decent 3 point harness seat belt for the centre seat that I'll have to some strong fixing points fabricated for.
Thanks Rich...
I presume you remember us talking about similar things here ... http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...rt=#entry234185
I took your advice when fitting all my seats etc and went down to my MOT place who also does kit car test etc. He told me something about it being over a certain age which i think was 10 years. Meaning if its newer than 10 years and you put seats in the back then you need the SVA test. Not sure if this applys to the front though.
Our front centre seat works really well. Baby in front passenger, mrs in the middle, me driving obviously, and older 2 kids in the back. And everyone is happy which is the main thing.
Insurance company didn't give a monkeys so long as i didn't end up with more than 5 seats.
If it was me doing the same again, I would talk to the same 2 places. MOT/ SVA station and insurance company.
The other thing is ... Ya gotta live. I'm sure you bought your defender to enjoy it. If it was me, and it needed a centre seat then it would be getting a centre seat.
1 concern that has just dawned on me ... Doesn't the gear lever on the new defenders bend back further.
Thinking about, if in an accident in 2nd or 4th gear, where the lever is going.
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i need to draft proof my engine bay.
Not talking sealing it up by any means, i just mean reducing the air flow through the engine bay quite a bit.
Anyone else done this ??
Any ideas ??
I've got a plan ..
Firstly i'll replace the stat.
I'll order and fit a couple of VDO water temperature gauges so that i know what the temperature actually is. One gauge will monitor fuel temperature and the other the coolant temperature.
Then i'll start playing with blocking of a bit of rad if required.
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If you have a standard LR temp gauge it is lying to you. They read 'in the middle' from 40-110c. Fit a VDO gauge and sender if you want to know the truth.
Maybe you should fit one of those WD covers that go in front of the radiator, I have seen them on sale a paddocks or craddocks or waddocks or whatever.
I referenced the gauge, but i have been using an electonic gismo that i move around where i want it. It reads out in the cab.
I'm not convinced that a rad cover or ally sheet as tris says will help.
When i've got the cab heater on and driving at road speed then i'm not convinced that the water temp ever gets hot enough to even send anything forward of the stat.
I agree about the vdo gauge though ... Its on the list, along with a couple of other gauges that are closer to being done.
I fitted a kenlowe fan to reduce air flow over the rad.
Its just such a cold engine, Its like, when theres so much air flow cooling the engine bay down, it doesn't even use its rad.
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Thats what I was thinking ralph
Normally Yeah i agree the more air flow = cooler = better.
My logic is a bit weird and therefore a bit hard to explain but i'll try.
I've got a 200tdi. I did a veggie conversion. The conversion is spot on, and works really well.
Because of the conversion i started monitoring fuel temperatures, water temperatures at different points etc.
I noticed that my fuel temperature was struggling to get to 65 degrees c. This is not good so cut some diesel in till i could come up with a master plan.
Noticed that when driving slower like in the fields etc, i get a good 75 degrees c which i'm much happier with.
I then started to monitor the water temperature ( going out to the internal heater matrix line). I found that this was about the same as the fuel temperature. This meant that the heat exchanger etc for the veggie was doing its job but the water temp was too low. In the fields however, the water temp at the thermostat remained the same (thus the dash gauge stayed vertical) but the heater matrix becomes much hotter.
This means 2 things to me
1) Cylinder 1 must be running colder than cylinder 4 and thus may explain the 200tdi gasket popping problem ???? Not too sure though.
2) Can never get the cab warmed up when on an open road cos the water temperature is only about 60 degrees when it hits the matrix. Thus my veggie matrix is also never hot enough.
Very interested in opinions
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i need to draft proof my engine bay.
Not talking sealing it up by any means, i just mean reducing the air flow through the engine bay quite a bit.
Anyone else done this ??
Any ideas ??
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Just wondered what other defender owners are using.... how they work taking into account the almost vertical screen?
Grateful for any advice or set up tips
I still use the sun, the stars and which way the wind is blowing
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Yes Jimmy it will, I've got that rev counter on my 110.
Thanx western ..
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lots of info here for your engine the connections will be similar, my rev counter is a LR genuine item part number AMR5724 as used in the V8 50th 90's.
top revs for a 19J 2.5TD engine is 4000 rpm says Defender workshop manual, but 3800rpm is probably more like max revs.
Thanx for info ... very useful.
So a AMR 5724 will fit a 200tdi no problem ????
Just bought one of them gauges new for £20 new which is of course very cheap and i was tempted to buy the full stock, but instead i thought i would be kind and just share the info. Only 3 more on the shelf though.
So if anyone wants one then let me know.
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Hi
After the engine rebuild and turbo replacement I have a small problem, the engine starts and runs well apart from under heavy load. When the engine is under heavy load, like putting my foot down to overtake, I can feel it hunting. I think it might be the waste gate opening and closing all the time, if I lift my right foot a little, all is well but it then take ages to get up to an overtaking speed. My Disco is a 2001 TD5 with Auto Box, if I put my foot down, it will kick down but the hunting is very bad and I have to lift off again and then it changes up again.
I thought it might be the MAS so I checked it and one of the elements was burnt out so I bought a new sensor. The sensor arrived today and i fitted it but still have the same problem.
History so far...
About a month ago my Disco was running very well without any problems until the bolt on the oil pump packed in. I was lucky that it happened at very low speed and after striping the engine I got away with only having to replace all the shells, and the turbo. So its had a new Turbo (the correct one), Big End Shells, Main Bearings and it the same time we replaced the Air Filter, both Oil Filters and the fuel filter. Its now had a new MAS (old one was knackered oil on the sensor wire) and a new injector harness (76,000 miles thought it was time to replace it).
When the MAS packs in, do I need to get the error codes reset before the engine will run right? or do I have something else wrong?
I'm open to any advice..
Thanks
I'd be starting at an inlet air leak.
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Ordered a new 'safari' door yesterday from PAddocks, then they called to say they did not have ANY rear doors in as company wit made em gone busted...
Any one else know where to get a new (300Tdi rear door glazed and heated)....?
Part no was LR509D..
Lucky me .. I just got one from them 2 weeks ago..
When i looked into it, http://www.mm-4x4.com/ were next cheapest, but will need to check which glass they put in the door. Not worth it if its £144 with just plain glass but worth ringing them.
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how can i find out what red my 90 was painted with when it left the factory? the chassi plate has a section on it saying paint but its blank any ideas chaps? was gonna try and get it painted the original colour
None Metallic Land Rover colour codes
Note: SVO = Special Vehicle Operations.
lrr = Long Range Radar.
Special thanks to PPG for providing paint code information allowing me to update the colour lists.
The year column is a guide to when colours were available.
Example:
95-95 available only in 1995.
98- available from 1998 to present day.
84-99 available from 1984 to 1999.
COLOUR BLACK YEAR CODE
399 Black 40% Gloss 69-99 LRC.399
775 Java Black (Engine Bay) 04 LRC.775
PVM Narvik Black 06 LRC.921
PUE Beluga, Caracal, County, Manhatton Black 2ct 89-97 LRC.416
PUE Beluga, Caracal, County, Manhatton Black 2ct 89-97 LRC.416(D)
COLOUR WHITE YEAR CODE
755 BT Ford Diamond White (Ral-9001) 01- LRC.755
603 German Border Police White 99-99 LRC.60
NCA Arctic White 75-85 LRC.273
273 Arctic White 75-85 LRC.273
354 Ivory White, Chamonix White, Davos White 94-90 LRC.354
NCM Ivory White, Chamonix White, Davos White 84-90 LRC.354
456 Alpine White, Savarin White 90-97 LRC.456
456 Alpine White, Savarin White 90-97 LRC.456(L)
456 Alpine White, Savarin White 90-97 LRC.456(Y)
NUC Alpine White, Savarin White 90-97 LRC.456
NUC Alpine White, Savarin White 90-97 LRC.456(L)
NUC Alpine White, Savarin White 90-97 LRC.456(Y)
NAL Chawton White 2ct 98- LRC.NAL
603 Chawton White 2ct 98- LRC.603
714 White GS (Engine Bay) 98 LRC.714
TS714 White GS (Tinted Surfacer) 99 LRC.TS714
NNZ Old English White 00-02 LRC.753
NCL Alaska (Porcelain) White 06 LRC.909
NUQ Whistler White 06 LRC.922
PA3 Denham White 04 LRC.PA3
COLOUR BEIGE YEAR CODE
ACD Sahara Dust 70-85 LRC.239
ACF Sand 59-84 LRC.004
356 Kuwait Matt Sand 99-01 LRC.356
566 Saudi Desert Pink Matt (svo) 00 LRC.566
NCJ Limestone 59-84 LRC.007
NCN Cornish Cream Svo 91-95 LRC.374
SCA Shetland Beige 80-84 LRC.324
433 Arran Beige Pebblestone 89-92 LRC.433
SUB Arran Beige Pebblestone 89-92 LRC.433
133 Libyan Matt Sand (svo) 94-95 LRC.133
239 Sahara Dust 70-85 LRC.239
501 Qatar Sand (svo Matt) 94-94 LRC.501
571 Corporate Cream 92-92 LRC.571
630 Beige 96-96 LRC.TS630
SUL Pioneer Sand (svo) Matt 99- LRC.699
725 Sand (svo) 2ct 99- LRC.725
0020 Mayagold (Engine Bay) 05 LRC.0020
NAU Atacama Sand 06 LRC.916
GAF Nazca Sand 06 LRC.919
GCN Kennicott Gold 07 LRC.931
COLOUR GREY YEAR CODE
0001 Dark Grey 59-68 LRC.0001
0017 Door Hinge Silver 00-00 LRC.0017
LCB Mid Grey, Welsh Grey 59-84 LRC.008
333 Matt Ssf Grey (Svo) 94-95 LRC.333
LCN Cambrian Grey, Slate Grey 84-88 LRC.348
471 Merlin Grey Svo 92- LRC.471
LUS Pennine Grey, Pembroke Grey 91-94 LRC.476
LUS Pennine Grey, Pembroke Grey 91-94 LRC.476(D)
527 Telecom Grey 91-91 LRC.527
687 BT Grey (svo) 2ct 98- LRC.687
728 Spanish Matt Navy Grey (svo) 99- LRC.728
581 Charcoal Stayfast Gloss 60% (Upper) 93-93 LRC.581
613 Charcoal (Tinted surfacer) 96-96 LRC.TS613
LDA Hatton Grey (Bumper) 98-99 LRC.LDA
481 Lizard Grey 89-00 LRC.481
768 Giverny (Engine Bay) 05 LRC.768
PD7 Morgan Grey 04 LRC.PD7
COLOUR BLUE YEAR CODE
JCC Marine Blue 59-87 LRC.006
JCB Tuscan Blue 72-81 LRC.236
26 Royal Blue (svo) 94-94 LRC.26
JCP Stratos Blue, Tasmin Blue 82-87 LRC.327
JUG Shire Blue 88-89 LRC.392
JUG Shire Blue 88-89 LRC.392(G)
JUH Arles, Windjammer, Pacific Blue 90-97 LRC.424
JUH Arles, Windjammer, Pacific Blue 90-97 LRC.424(VI)
JUT Caledonian Blue 2ct 98- LRC.507
JUT Caledonian Blue 2ct 98- LRC.507(DR)
595 Blue Lord (svo) 94-94 LRC.595
614 Ghana Police Gloss Blue 1427 (svo) 95-95 LRC.614
616 Portugese Blue (svo) 95- LRC.616
JDU British Gas Light Blue (svo) 95- LRC.633
JBE Caribineri Blue (svo) 98- LRC.658
692 Italian Police Blue (Ral-5023) 98- LRC.692
JBQ Gendamerie Blue Cob (svo) 98- LRC.681
694 Gendamerie Blue Cob (svo) 98- LRC.694
899 Midnight Blue 2ct 91-91 LRC.899
COLOUR GREEN YEAR CODE
715 Green GS (Engine Bay) 98 LRC.715
295 Java Green 74-78 LRC.295
693 Java Green (svo) 98 LRC.693
0013 Black & Decker Green (svo) 97- LRC.0013
619 Deep Bronze Green 99-00 LRC.619
HUY Deep Bronze Green (svo) 93-94 LRC.540
506 Mid Bronze Green 51% Gloss (svo) 94-95 LRC.506
HCC Bronze Green, Ascot Green 59-88 LRC.001
HDV Bronze Green 2ct 99-99 LRC.619
268 Olive Green (svo) 94-94 LRC.268
002 Deep Olive Green 70-71 LRC.002
213 Olive Drab Matt (svo), also British Standard 381C (298) 89- LRC.213
HYA Non lrr Nato Green, also British Standard 381C (285) 94-95 LRC.553
242 USAF Matt Green (svo) 94-95 LRC.242
HCD Light Green, Pastel Green 59-84 LRC.005
0007 British Racing Green 93-93 LRC.0007
HCS Balmoral Green 84-86 LRC.340
519 Balmoral Green 84-86 LRC.340
HUJ Eastnor Green Eskdale Green 89-92 LRC.419
HUJ Eastnor Green, Eskdale Green 89-92 LRC.419®
HCJ Warwick Green 86-86 LRC.232
HCB Lincoln Green 70-84 LRC.233
295 Java Green 74-78 LRC.295
693 Java Green (svo) 98 LRC.693
HFK Seguarro Green (svo) 99-99 LRC.703
HCN Trident Green 82-86 LRC.325
505 Trident Green 82-86 LRC.325
355 Matt Leo Green 93-93 LRC.355
504 National Grid green (svo) 95-95 LRC.504
563 Malaysian Green Matt 92-92 LRC.563
334 Bottle Green, Brooklands Green 83-92 LRC.334
HYF Brooklands Green 93-95 LRC.569
HYE Coniston Green, Olive Green 93-97 LRC.570
HYE Coniston Green, Olive Green 93-97 LRC.570(B)
HYJ Coniston Green 2ct 98-01 LRC.637
HYJ Coniston Green 2ct 98-01 LRC.637(L)
572 Corporate Green 92-92 LRC.572
576 Matt Khaki (Lead Free) 93-93 LRC.576
615 Matt Ghana Police Green 95-96 LRC.615
577 Matt Oman Khaki (svo) 93-95 LRC.577
594 Salvia Green (svo) 94-94 LRC.594
596 Portugese Nat Guard Green (svo) 94-94 LRC.596
680 Portugese Nat Guard Green Cob 98 LRC.680
599 Indonesian Army Matt Green (svo) 94-94 LRC.599
727 German Police Green (svo) 2ct 99 LRC.727
759 Asian Green Matt (Svo) 00 LRC.759
HZA Atlantic Green (svo) 2ct 99- LRC.726
11852 Wildlife Green (Australia) 72-72 LRC.11852
HZL Belize Green 2ct 03- LRC.756
JUC91 Tonga Green 06-08 LRC.JUC91
HZL Belize Green 03-06 LRC.HZL(D/L)
COLOUR YELLOW - ORANGE YEAR CODE
FUQ Borrego Yellow 02-02 LRC.757
578 Orange (Ral-2010 Signal Orange) 93- LRC.578
EUE Orange (Ral-2011 Deep Orange) 93- LRC.578
FMB A.A Yellow 93-94 LRC.559
FUN A.A Yellow 2ct 94-00 LRC.FUN
GCA Bahama Gold 71-79 LRC.235
GCA Bahama Gold 71-79 LRC.235(D)
235 Bahama Gold 71-79 LRC.235
235 Bahama Gold 71-79 LRC.235(D)
361 Camel Trophy Yellow, Sandglow 93-97 LRC.361
561 Telecom Yellow, Highway Yellow 85-85 LRC.561
FAP Daytona Yellow (svo) 2ct 99-99 LRC.702
0008 Yellow 93-93 LRC.0008
611 Yellow (Tinted Surfacer) 96-96 LRC.TS611
600 Yellow (svo) (Ral-1023 Traffic Yellow) 95-95 LRC.600
582 Yellow (Ral-1016 Sulphur Yellow) 95-95 LRC.582
584 Nas AA Yellow 94-99 LRC.584
593 B.A.A Yellow (svo) 94-94 LRC.593
0014 Molten Orange 99-99 LRC.0014
EMC Tangiers Orange 2ct (G4 challenge colour) 02- LRC.761
FAH Sumatra Yellow 01-01 LRC.749
COLOUR RED YEAR CODE
0012 Farrari Red 95-95 LRC.0012
0009 Royal Claret 93-93 LRC.0009
CMK Poppy Red 59-68 LRC.CMK
CUF Arrow Red, Portofino Red Corallin Red 88-97 LRC.390
CUF Arrow Red, Portofino Red, Corallin Red 88-97 LRC.390(D)
CUF Arrow Red, Portofino Red, Corallin Red 88-97 LRC.390(DI)
CCC Masai Red 70-85 LRC.378
CCL Venetian Red 81-87 LRC.440
542 Red svo (Ral-3000 Flame Red) 94-94 LRC.542
560 Post Office Red (svo) 94-94 LRC.560
562 S.W.E.B Red (svo) 94-94 LRC.562
590 Lazer Red 94-94 LRC.590
CCZ Monza Red 2ct 95-99 LRC.590
CPQ Rutland Red 2ct 95-99 LRC.607
CPQ Rutland Red 2ct 95-99 LRC.607(LQ)
612 Red (Tinted Surfacer 96-96 LRC.TS612
ZZZ Damson Red 97-98 LRC.ZZZ
723 Scarlet Red 2ct 00-00 LRC.723
JUC90 Rimini Red 06-08 LRC.JUC90
CBK Rimini Red 04 LRC.889
CVA Blaze Red 97-03 LRC.701
CVA Blaze Red (svo) 2ct 99-99 LRC.CVA
COLOUR BROWN YEAR CODE
293 Oman Sand Matt (svo) 94-95 LRC.293
CCH Russet Brown 76-85 LRC.318
ACV Rowan Brown 82-85 LRC.324:82
341 Arizona Tan 84-87 LRC.341
520 Arizona Tan 84-87 LRC.341
ABA Arizona Tan 84-87 LRC.341
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Normally this means your timing is retarded or you have low compression or possible one bad injector.
On a diesel white smoke is normally unburnt or partially burnt fuel.
It runs really well, with no hesitations and is very smooth.
Can it still be compression ?
Injectors were replaced 2000miles ago when the injection pump was rebuilt. Doesn't mean i aint got a duffa, but it does mean its not old.
It started and ran very clean after the rebuild
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has anyone fitted a boost gauge to a 300Tdi disco?
I'd like to know how to plumb it in under the bonnet...
its a TIM gauge, and came with a length of hose, a T piece, and a small fitting....
can I just tap a hole in the inlet manifold, and run it straight out of there?
Where'd ya get it from ?
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Yes if you run 10x15 on unsurfaced clay roads, visibility out the side windows isn't even optional
It isn't great with 8x15 but it does keep the spray down a bit. They do just rub on the arms on full lock but not too bad, better than my old BFGs I think.
Front end view here http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...20&start=20
Nice
I got 7x16's on with 235/85's. seems to sit slightly higher than the standard 7.5x16 but it can't do really.
Don't seem to rub at all.
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White smoke on conventional diesel is not normal, it's a sign of incomplete combustion, (crook injectors, not enough compression [heat in combustion chamber], dodgy fuel) but on WVO ?????
Know what you mean ... I don't know if its normal either...
Its SVO that i'm running and not WVO.
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Hi
Ive just refitted my LT77 gearbox back in my 1985 Defender 110 ex mod after having it rebuilt ,it was done here in Spain by a reputable garage, the problem is I cant get 5th gear now, I adjusted the screw next to the gear stick on the left and this gave it more travel accross the right but it now seems like Ive got two locations for third!
Before I go ripping into the garage can anyone tell me if Im doing something wrong??
Rgds
Rotor
This should help ...
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Curently 300 miles from home on a small island in Orkney in the 90 with a misbehaving clutch pedal
The clutch pedal has become quite stiff and has become very slow to return -- in fact sometimes the pedal doesn't return at all, it stays down, and I have to bring it up with my foot
The clutch itself is working fine. The bite point hasn't changed at all and the clutch is fully dis-engaging -- and re-engages just fine when the pedal eventually makes it back up.
There is no fluid loss from the clutch master cylinder -- at least there has been no loss during the journey from central Scotland to Orkney (I checked the level before we set off and it hasn't appreciably changed). I think there might be a very fine film of brake fluid on the pedal but difficult to be certain
I suspect something wrong with clutch master cylinder but not 100% sure -- never experienced a problem quite like this before. Clutch master and slave were both renewed about 18 months ago -- but not by me and I suspect non-OE unbranded parts have been fitted...
Supposed to be travelling to Argyll on Wednesday for three days offroading before we go home so any advice would obviously be much appreciated.
Cheers,
On a 300tdi it shouldn't need the return spring on the bulkhead. (I have removed mine to make it lighter).
The other spring thats integral to the pedal is to make the pedal lighter. I suppose in a way you could say this is causing the problem, but really it isn't.
It's quite common on the 300tdi for this to happen when something in the clutch starts to age.(close to complete failure). I think its the pressure plate but can't fully remember. It could be hydraulic restriction as well though, like an internally collapsed hose at the slave cylinder.
If ya go around feeling clutches on defenders, then you may notice that the previous ones to yours are heavy, like the 200tdi. Then yours 300tdi is nice and car like to drive due to the assist spring in the pedal. Then the TD5 went quite heavy again. I believe this was due to concerns surrounding the problem you describe.
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Hey,
Has anyone had any expereince of the fold-up seats provided by exmoor trim for the load area?
good or bad?
Like this:
Thanks
Pete
It all depends on what you are using them for and maybe how often etc.
For example ... you can no longer carry kids in sideways facing seats legally. Never been safe anyway.
Probably ok as a dry place to sit if it starts raining when having a bbq.
Its getting a bit long winded but have a look at this ..
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...rt=#entry234087
Be interested to know what you decide on
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Could be many things. Its normal to have the white smoke on start up. When its warm and stationary, is the volume of white smoke the same as at start-up?
The most serious it could be is a internal coolant leak, which granted is pretty serious. The 1st thing id check is your coolant level. Followed by the smell of your exhaust, put your nose in a bottle of antifreeze (ethylene glycol) if your exhaust fumes smell like that sweet smell of ethylene glycol, you have almost certainly got an internal coolant leak. If you haven't got these symptoms then you can probably discount internal coolant leak.
Other things to check are exhaust connections? Regular service items, fuel filter for example? Also do you run on veg oil or anything like that? What engine do you have btw?
Not loosing any coolant. And it doesn't smell like that.
Do run on veggie oil, but its a twin tank set up.
Both fuel filters (one of them the veggie one) were replaced recently.
Its a 200tdi.
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They were fitted to some older cars. Think it may of been an option on things like MGBGT etc but not sure and can't find one in their parts list...
They go into the coolant line that goes to the heater matrix, so that the coolant flow to the internal heater matrix doesn't start until the engine is warmed up.
If ya know what its called, then ya could also guess where to get one from for me
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On a morning when i start up i get a quite large plume of white smoke. The white smoke carrys on until i accelerate it up the road. If i leave it ticking over the smoke just continues.
After this initial problem everything else is ok and drives perfect.
However, if left ticking over, even when the engine is hot, it seems to slowly build up the smoke again so that when accelerating away it sends out the plume of white smoke again.
Any ideas ?????
Ta
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Hey,
Are the fuel filters different between the 200tdi and the previous engines as I am looking to change mine and it was orginally a 1985 90- but not sure what engine it had and then it had a 200tdi. Would the fuel filter assembly have been changed? How could I tell? If not what is the part number for a new fuel filter?
Thanks
Pete
I noticed that there is one for sale on ebay at the moment. Listed as for 200tdi defender.
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My modulars after a little bit of modifying.............
Thanx all....
Bought em from silverline 4x4.
Bloke i spoke to gave excellent advice and seemed to know what he was on about.
Got Pirelli Scorpians on the rims and they are actually much better than i expected, but time will tell as they get worn in.
Cheapest i could find as well
Mrs nearly killed me.... need to find a better way of smuggling parts in for my next project.
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was gonna get alloys for my 1991 defender but its cos its got drum brakes on the back, it started looking expensive.
Then noticed people like craddocks selling quite a nice looking modular wheel.
Are they any good ?
Do they start rusting away after 10 seconds of use ?
Any got a pic to show me what they look like on a defender ?
Ta
'W' Terminal Creating on Marelli Alternator
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
My gauge arrived today.
Looks really good.
Two questions though..
1) Do you remember what position you put them little white switches in on the back of the gauge ?
2) I see that this land rover part is actually made by VDO.
So as i need 2 VDO water temp gauges (we discussed it in my draft proofing engine bay topic), is the, say TD5 defender water temp gauge also a VDO. Or any other that you know about.
This could save me a few quid as i'm also planning on putting in a TD5 speedo as mine keeps sticking around 60ish which is quite dodgy. So if the TD5 one is made by VDO i could just buy the whole dash off eblag.