Orange
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Posts posted by Orange
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We use a 12" square of 'waffle' material. Not exactly easy to store, but definitely strong enough to bridge gaps on uneven ground. I think it's about 20mm thick.
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Yep. Not too much of an issue. New seal and check the bearings at the same time and it'll all be good again.
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.......[snip]
And whilst Im at it, is £13000 OTT for a LHD 2002 facelifted TD5 Disco (new lights and fuel cap on instrument cluster) XS 5 seater with 59,000 miles on the clock...?
From what I can tell, no AirSusp or Heated Seats, and, like the Steering wheel, all cream interior.
Cheers
Simon
Yes!! My pre-facelift TD5 manual S was recently valued at between £4-5000 as a private sale. 60k on the clock and no expensive electrics to go wrong etc. etc., so I guess that £8000 is a bit much for the facelift and extra spec, especially as the car is now 7.5 years old!!
I also only paid a bit more than that for mine when I bought it from a LR dealer 4 years ago!!
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As an aside, but related point, does anyone know what restrictions there are on towing 'plant' equipment? I don't mean large geraniums, either...
One of our drivers recently got pulled at a regular VOSA stopping point and got weighed and found to be overweight (Merc Sprinter open back plus a screed pump trailing behind - not the driver himself!!). Now........VOSA didn't know what to do as the 'trailer' isn't a trailer and is in fact a piece of machinery........ There are apparently different regs for this, but none of us, nor VOSA can find a definitive answer!! Anyone had similar experience??
It's a little worrying that the people who make the rules, can't actually give you an answer!!
Back on topic....... Be very careful when you enlist the help of specialist driving instructors. I have made several enquiries and found that not all of them know the rules. I have found myself directing the companies to the relevant DVLA websites for details.
I did manage to get quotes for instruction and test at around the £500 mark, but I am still reluctant as it wouldn't cost any more to get C1+E, but none of the local HGV schools have trailers for 7.5tonners at the moment!! Typical! This is, however, because I have already taken the upgrade test for 7.5ton trucks (another £1000 for a course and test)...
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No pics, I'm afraid, but I can take some later tonight if you like.
Mine are mounted on a MSS cubby box at the bottom of the stereo section at the front on the drivers side. The stereo section only has a CB in it so there is plenty of room for all the wiring at the rear of the switches. I also have 3 winch switches and front & rear spot/worklight switches mounted in this space.
My old 90 had an aluminium panel with 3 switches in it mounted up the side of the stereo section, with the stereo bit mounted off to one side (rather than central...)
If you are mounting them in a 'standard' cubby box, I would highly recommend putting a cover panel over the wiring inside the box...
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Also glad you are back and as well as can be, mate. Hope you make a full and speedy recovery and can still enjoy your planned holiday!!
Take a well earned rest and then get yourself a chair with wheels on so you can still do some tinkering in the garage
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I've just put Wolf door bottoms on my 300 and fitted the standard door seals along the bottom. Seals work as well as they did on the old doors - even got the same 'inspection holes' at the front and rear!!
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Just to clarify, Round 4 is at Slindon in West Sussex. Have a look back for the Round 2 thread in this section of the forum and you should get the details and a load of pictures of what to expect...
All I wil say is........... Beware of the outback!!!
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Thanks for a cracking event. A very difficult site to conquer, so well done to those who managed high scores. As has been said, some of the punches looked worse than they actually were, so well done to the team setting out!
Quite a sad and quike shocking way to end the day from my point of view. Steve had been doing a sterling job for Barry all day and just happened to be in the wrong place at the wrong time. Just goes to show how quickly things can happen.
I would like to commend the reactions of all involved, especially Sara as the first marshall at the scene and the Nurse Practitioner (sorry, I didn't catch your name) who both took control of the situation with very calm heads.
Many thanks also to the guys who helped directing the Doctor and Ambulance crew at the site entrance (didn't catch your names either, sorry).
Regards
Adrian
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Right......... I'm back from Ireland... Quick shower and about to walk out the door again!! SWMBO is dealing with the week's washing.......God I'm going to pay for this!!
Hope the truck is already there.......................haven't heard otherwise!!!
See you all later or tomorrow!!
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To give you an idea... Range Rover Classic..... both sills, bottoms of door pillars, rear body crossmember, boot floor, floor supports, wheelarches, floor panel in front footwell, some inner wing work at the front.....
I paid about £350 for materials and consumables (i.e. gas, wire, grinder discs etc). It took the best part of 6 working days to do the repairs from start to finish. This was with 2 of us doing the cleaning, grinding, cutting, fitting. Only one welder (I am medically inept) and only me doing the clean-up work and painting afterwards. We used a floor and crossmember from a much earlier vehicle found in a scrap yard and sills made from box section, so 'parts' costs were minimal and what metal we had for patches etc came from a friendly local forge, so again, costs were minimised.
My threads on doing the work are below and as Mr 'n' Sheds (how many has he got at the moment??) has already said, the rust will always be much more widespread that you can see from first glance...
Floor and crossmember replacement
Not the sort of thing I would have undertaken without having the help of someone who knows what they are doing and had done similar work before. I certainly wouldn't relish the thought of sending it to a garage to have the work done. I also don't relish the thought, god forbid, that the welding looks perfectly good once it's done, cleaned and painted, but isn't actually holding much together because the garage have rushed/bodged/cut corners to make a bit more profit by saving a couple of hours.
Unless the vehicle has sentimental value (not just cos you've had it 5 years), then I would be tempted to get some estimates for the work, then use that 'fee' as an estimated budget for a replacement. You can also get good money for bits on your vehicle, so that too can add to your replacement fund...
Hopefully you don't feel too disheartened. If you want a project and can afford for the vehicle to be off the road while you do it, then do it, but if it's the daily drive and time is tight before the MoT runs out, I would expect there to be only one outcome...
Adrian
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I used a similar fuse box in my old 90. It was a Blue Sea version from a company called JG Tech.
I used the philosopy that if I was running a power feed from the fuse box to the ancillary item, then why not run an earth directly back along the same route within the same convoluted trunking. It's certainly a lot easier to keep track of all the earth points and theres only 2 places to check when the ancillary equipment stops working (the connections at the appliance and the fuse box). It then also has a direct link back to the battery which is a much better solution that having 5 different earth points dotted all over the vehicle.
If you have several appliances in the same area, I would be tempted to run several small +12v feeds and one larger earth cable for them all to link to at the other end.
James - you will find that a couple of additional 12v cigar lighter sockets on the back of the cubby box will be very handy...
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Step back for a few minutes and have a cup of tea, then have another go.
Going back to basics:
Are the new washers copper? If not, they should be...
Are the mating surfaced clean?
Are the banjo bolts cross threaded?
It's sometimes good to step right back and start from scratch...
If there is diesel leaking down the side of the engine from the injectors or pump, the fumes will be very pungent. Probably getting in throught the many 'drain holes' that LR build in!!!
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Three basic things we all need to know to help are:
1/ Voltage of battery with no load applied (ignition off etc)
2/ Voltage across battery terminals during starting cycle
3/ Voltage across the battery terminals when it is running
Overcharging by the alternator is more fatal than no charging at all. Your lights will be brighter than normal (including the interior one) if this is the case and it wil cook the battery and maybe the rest of the electrical system.
The voltage across the batteries on tickover (once revved to knock off the charging light) should be somewhere between 13.8v and 14.6v depending on how fresh the alternator is in my experience. The wife's Astra was running at 17.3v when the alternator packed up....
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IIRC the SR stuff is a copy of the Equipe set-up isn't it?? That's what I've got on my 90 and it has the same set-up with the panhard rod...
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WRT fire extinguishers... I have a 1kg powder extinguisher on the front of the seat box in the drivers footwell. I'm 6'4" on a good day with size 12 feet (normally in walking boots) and I don't even know it's there... Just a thought. My front winch solenoids are mounted in the same position in the passenger footwell, so maybe a case for a second small extinguisher there...
Another option is on the back of the cubby box between the front seats...
It is just an idea to have a smaller one to hand whilst another member of the 'crew' are fetching the larger one. It also gives you an option between contents as I don't really like the idea of squirting foam at an electrical fire........
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I started WD-40-ing my door hinge bolts about 2 weeks ago in anticipation of changing the doors. The bulkhead ones are now free, but the door ones aren't, but that's not too much of an issue.
I would recommend replacing the bolts with stainless ones. Available on ebay as complete kits, or from your local fastner shop...
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If you are fitting a full external cage, there should be no need to alter the soft-top at all. The only difficulties come when you have a full external cage with an internal hoop/bracing as well...
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You beat me to it, Bowie!!
[Trevor MacDonald voice on]
In tonight's news, a member of the Cardboard Engineering Squad is missing, presumed converted to allegedly more acurate methods of modelling and construction..."
[/Trevor MacDonald voice off]
It doesn't look very thick, Bish............give Nige a ring. He'll learn you!!!
Edited to add - Don't suppose you would enlighten us as to the source of the SS fairlead, would you?? Got any spare??
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Have a look in the CAD Archive. I'm fairly sure there are a couple of threads discussing the options for cheap or free CAD software.
Personally, I use AutoCAD.... Frown if you like, but it's intuitive and easy to use. Unfortunately my most up-to-date version is only 2D Lite at work, but I've solved that at home...
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Anywhere between £300 if you find a mis-spelt ebay bargain from a seller that doesn't know what they have or a shabby old one that needs rebuilding, up to £800 for a still shiney second hand one in bolt-on and use condition I would think.
Unless you are in the right place at the right time for a pub-deal as certain forum members have been known to be!!
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To take a step back to the basics...
You will buy an airhorn set from, say Halfords or ebay. It will come as a complete set, so twin or tripple trumpets, air compressor (with some air pipe and 1 or 2 T-pieces) and a relay for powering it. You might even get some wire too if you buy a deluxe kit...
You will need a direct feed from the battery to the relay and on to the compressor, along with an earth doing the same. You will also need the low-power side connected into the feed from the normal horn switch/stalk. It's effectively the same as wiring up spotlights or a winch...
Previously in a Mk2 Golf, I wired them in separately and added a switch to select which horn to use, so the MoT tester was happy as I still had the mono-pitch standard horn, but flip the switch and I had the airhorns for comedy effect. Both were operated from the steering wheel and it's not that hard to do once you've found the horn wiring.
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Why have you not revealed this secret painting formula before???
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To be honest, I've never tried ordering over the phone for a delivery, but they must do it as they are always packing stuff up when I go in there... They are only 5 minutes down the road from me, so I just ring up with a list and collect when they tell me it's all ready.
Try their website for a list of distributors... Click me!!
Or try ringing them up and asking. It's the only sure way of making sure you get what you want.
Previously, I have had orders made up with 'inferior quality parts' from other suppliers when using the likes of Paddocks etc, but I never have any issues with Bearmach. Plus, if you tell them that Paddocks etc do it cheaper they might even try to beat the price...
bobtail
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
Not if you want to present it to the VOSA Inspector as an Amateur Build.