HoggyN
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Posts posted by HoggyN
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How long is the mains lead?
I've bought a couple of cheap power tools from Aldi and the leads were about two feet long.
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I'd have thought that anyone who values the freedom to tinker with motor vehicles, as crusty Land Rover owners often are, wouldn't be too receptive to the Europhile point of view.
Could be just me though.
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I'm looking for a splined motor drive pinion for a Warn 8274 (#15879). Can anybody point me in the direction of a UK supplier?
TIA
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Can't you use a York type compressor with an oil sump?
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I'm trying to fit a series clutch cover to a RRC V8 flywheel.
My machinist (AKA a bloke at work) has asked for dimensions for the various holes. Do any exist and, if so, where?
Cheers
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Until you said that, yes :-)
I understood the S1 came in 80", 86", and 107" wheelbases.
However, I have just looked up my Series 1 documentation and see the Parts List 4107, of June 1956, revised October 1961, does include a 109", as well as the other sizes.
My humble apologies to the OP.
What a welcome to the forum!! Things can only get better, I hope :-)
It came in an 88" too.
If I remember correctly, the extra two inches was needed to fit the diesel engine in.
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It's another ringer ...
Ooops! The listing has been removed.
Maybe somebody reported it?
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Can't tell if it's on leafs but I'm guessing not ,looks suspiciously like a 90 chassis but surely no one would do that and not declare it .........
The axle drive flanges are definitely not Series.
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They aren't the only ones. Paddocks are currently listing LWB series brake shoes with a pic complete with a Bearmach watermark. What you actually get comes in a blue box.
I fell for it.
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Reeeeeally silly though....could you put a freelander 2.5 petrol into a Series???
Or is this another of my 'when I win the lottery' projects, along with the TD5 100" Series?!
If you want to try, I have a Rover 825 languishing in the yard that could donate its engine. One owner from new. Me.
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I have a an old Dandy trailer tent/camper that I intend to re-chassis to suit the Land Rover. They have the advantage that they are insulated and can be put away wet if you have to.
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I think the rings are normally graphite carbon rather than carbon fibre.
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And it specifies 45A current draw, 50A fuse, though I don't know if a 50A blade fuse is readily available.
You will probably need to go to a maxi blade fuse like the ARB compressors use.
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Judging by the press in wheel studs, I'd say they the first was from a Series 3 and the second was SIIA (or earlier) with the earlier screw in studs replaced with the later pressed in type.
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Hmmm... I was wondering whether the gaiters were a good idea. However, the last set of swivels lasted nearly 20 years before they leaked. There's no pitting at all, just grooves worn in one of them that has caused a leak. I've got a lightweight axle on it at the moment as a temporary fix while I rebuild the front axle and that has leather gaiters on what could be the original swivels. No leaks with EP90 inside.
From bitter experience I steer well clear of unbranded bearings and seals.
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That is reassuring. Thanks.
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I need new swivel housings. The last pair have lasted 20 years and aren't pitted or particularly rusty but the chafing of the rubber gaiters I fitted has worn deep grooves them, one much worse than the other, I could try the epoxy repair but, to be honest, I'd rather not.
According to their website Pegasus Parts have some manganese bronze ones under development. They are expensive but looked promising. Unfortunately, a phone call to them revealed that development is in the very early stages so they are not going to be available any time soon.
I can't run to LR Genuine Parts. Britpart swivels claim to be OEM and, oddly enough, do seem to get reasonable reviews. The cheapest available seem to be Bearmach brand. Has anyone got any experience of these?
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YOU (and the other locals) are supposed to update the bloody thing, not just moan because others haven't.
That 'Can't be Arsed' approach is what pulls it down, and doesn't help anyone.
You want to help, don't you? After all, you post helpful comments on here.
Regards.
It wasn't a moan, just a heads up to others that the info on some lanes can be out of date and that it would be a good idea to check with locals before venturing out.
I used to update Trailwise regularly when I had an account and will gladly do so again if given access. However, I rarely lane at all these days so my input might be somewhat limited.
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I used to lane a lot but don't do much now. However, I lane almost exclusively on my own in an unmodified Series 1. You get a lot less agro (none) from landowners and other users. If you dress in a boiler suit and wellies, you just blend in to the landscape.
I've only ever needed to be recovered by anyone else when I have been laning in company.
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Trailwise is useful but use it with some caution. Prompted by this thread, I checked out a few local lanes on Trailwise the other day. There were several with out of date info. Years out of date.
Best to check with the locals too.
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I had an overheating problem with my standard S1 when I first got it. I used thermocouples poked into the hose joints to work out what was really happening. Cheaper than buying a new gauge and sender.
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If you need fans while you are moving, your rad isn't big enough or it's blocked up.
You could try taking the grille off to improve the airflow and see if that improves things. Also make sure that as little air as possible can bypass the rad around the sides etc.
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You'll now also need to submit a design and access statement for planning along with details of rainwater soakaway to BRE365.
The last garage I had approval on had over 35 pages for the planning application.
Is the design and access statement a new thing? When I looked about a month ago it was optional for a householder application.
Rover V8 help.
in International Forum
Posted
Does the vacuum advance work?
I've had problems with misfiring simply because a couple of ignition leads were touching each other. That was with electronic ignition though.