HoggyN
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Posts posted by HoggyN
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My hand was hovering over the bearing fit bottle too. I'm not at all happy with the current degree of slop. The trouble is that I could spend a fortune using trial and error to find some mallet on flanges.
I'll give the supplier a ring tomorrow and see if they will let me have a few on approval on condition that I will keep the ones I have to hammer on. Probably being a bit optimistic there.
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These are definitely not a shove fit.
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Thanks. That's what I was expecting.
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As the thread title really. How much play should there be on the splines with a new LR 24 spline Series drive flange mated to an Ashcroft HD halfshaft?
I have a little bit of play but I've no idea what is acceptable. The flange is not genuine LR but claimed UK made OEM quality.
Cheers,
H
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Glad you got there in the end.
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We had a better turn actually out than last year. I was sat next to a an old boy in church who broke down during the hymn "Oh Valiant Hearts". He lost his brother during WW2.
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They seem to come up on ebay quite regularly. I set up a search a while ago and get emails when they come up. The prices do tend to vary wildly though, as does what yo get with them.
I got an adapter complete with a late model Series 3 gearbox and a load of other bits and bobs for just over a hundred.
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Good luck.
Gear Cutting and Manufacturing did the splines on these...
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The only time I have ever heard my dad drop an F bomb was after he attempted to replace a washing machine drive belt. Sounds simple enough but after he'd taken it apart and put it back together again, he realised that he'd fitted the old belt back on. He stayed remarkably calm, took it apart and put it back together... and he'd put the old belt back on again. When he realised, he simply said "F#*k the thing" then drove into town and bought a brand new one.
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I've asked around and one suggestion was Modena Engineering in Carrum Downs (www.modenaengineering.com.au) if you haven't tried them already.
I've got couple of other contacts that might know somebody.
Edit: Gear Cutting and Manufacturing in Dandenong are another company that do one off stuff, apparently.
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As I understand their function, Detroit lockers are like the freewheel on a bicycle... only there are two, side by side, driven from a common sprocket. Going around a corner, the drive to the outer wheel freewheels as it speeds up relative to the inner wheel.
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Oddly enough, I have found myself pondering over the same thing. The hemi Daimler beats the RV8 hands down on looks but they are as rare as hens teeth. Parts are probably rarer.
Nice project, but the Rover is definitely the sensible choice. If I remember correctly, their origins both date to around the same time
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one life live it stickers, out of stock....
Don't worry, any stickers will do, the more the merrier. Maybe a "Recovery" sign too.
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Is that SD1 Lights on a... Oh God.. just... wow...
in the words of the local youths: "dem rimz doe"
Appliance Turbo Vecs, if I remember the ads in Custom Car magazine correctly.
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Aren't Detroit lockers one wheel drive around corners?
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I assumed that the PTO would go in the normal place on the rear of the transfer box and you would need these bits when you take it off...
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I dare say a half decent lawyer could run rings around the IVA rules if it came to it. You wouldn't be altering the chassis, you would be altering the big bracket that the chassis is attached to, correctly termed the "frame".
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US fuel should be clean enough,
Am I missing something? I assumed that the OP's location was Swindon, Wilts.
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What a weird coincidence. Yesterday, while looking for Series axle parts on ebay this came up in one of my searches...
I was intrigued so had a better look at it. It's post 1972/73 judging by the number plate.
More info here...
http://archive.commercialmotor.com/article/3rd-may-1963/156/a-6-x-6-land-rover-outfit
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Probably not. I used yards of the stuff and I bought it all from B&Q. It is an absolutely tedious job to do and I only made a pair. I used bungee cord to tension them.
You can buy a pair of ready made Chinese knock offs for about £40, If you keep your eyes open on ebay you get yourself a decent set even cheaper. I got a brand new pair for my wife's previous car for less than a fiver delivered.
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I made some. Years ago when chains were much harder to get hold of than they are now.
They worked well enough but, as others have said, these days it really isn't worth it.
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How about using swivel housing grease instead of oil?
And/or you could try replacing the seal using the split method.
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So what is the advantage over a lead acid battery?
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If the OP is still around, I may have a usable spare 109 rear tank. It's been lying around a while though so I'll need to check it's condition.
Series One transfer box output flange stud size?
in Series Forum
Posted
Does anybody know the thread used on the output flange studs (trans brake to prop)?
They don't appear to be 3/8 UNF. A 15 mm socket fits the nut but 9/16 AF won't.