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HoggyN

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Posts posted by HoggyN

  1. You need dissimilar metals and some form of electrolyte between them.

    As I understand it, the steel rust inhibitors usually work by creating a layer of iron phosphate on the surface that prevents further oxidation. Aluminium creates a layer of aluminium oxide on its surface when in contact with air which is itself highly resistant to corrosion.

  2. I was hoping to get a very shallow tee guide with grooved rollers.

    I had thought of just using an inverted length of angle but I'm going around in circles on this because I can't see me pulling a loaded engine crane over a raised guide. Perhaps a channel would be the better option although positioning it before the garage is up is going to take some thought, as is sorting drainage.

  3. Thanks.

    The crud in the guide problem was another reason I didn't want it recessed. It's difficult for crud to block up a surface mounted Tee section. I looked at top hung but then the track has to be supported and it seemed easier to have the weight of the door taken by a track resting on the slab. Also, from what I have read, bottom hung/supported are easier to seal.

    I think I can handle the security issue with with locking pins removable only from inside. There will be a separate lockable access door.

  4. Thanks,

    The only problem with C section that I can see, is that I would need to know exactly where to put it at the slab pouring stage. i was leaning towards an inverted tee because I can position it fairly late in the build when I know where everything is in reality, rather than where it ought to be according to the plans.

    7' does sound a bit low now I think about it. Hmmmm.

  5. I'm in the process of drawing up plans for a new garage and I want to use a pair of sliding doors. The doors are going to be timber and around 14' wide by 7' high. I also want them to slide on the bottom, not the top. The trouble is that I can't seem to find anyone who can supply a suitable track. I've seen a couple of likely candidates but, on further reading, discovered that the track is only 21 mm wide.

    For example...

    sliding-door-hardware-9114.png

    I suspect that I will need something a bit beefier than that.

    Can anybody point me in the right direction?

  6. Those RH06 tyres look good but are probably a bit too road biased for what we need. Wet grass is a must. Mud would be nice.

    There may be a bit of room for different sizes but I'd rather stay stock as the thing has still got nearly four years of warranty left on it and I don't want to give them any excuse to turn down a repair.

    Mrs H has already managed to rip the centre out of a clutch plate. That and the associated gearbox damage would have cost a small fortune to repair out of warranty. As it was, they accepted that the plate must have been faulty and repaired the car without a murmur.

  7. Cheers.

    The long life thing is interesting as I thought long life was something of a Michelin trademark.

    I was considering them primarily because, from reviews on the web, they seemed to be a pretty decent road tyre but still with some off-road abilities. The car gets used in fields a fair bit. It has Vredestein winters on at the moment that are superb on wet grass but absolutely useless in mud. The size is 235/55R18.

  8. OK, so this is non-Land Rover sort of, although the tyres in question are standard fit on Defenders.

    Mrs Hoggyn is a blonde bimbo (with an engineering degree) who drives a Korean SUV. The standard tyres are pretty dreadful on anything other than pristine tarmac and I want to fit a set of Michelin Latitude Cross tyres.

    The question is: Are these tyres good all-rounders, on/off road?

  9. Thanks.

    I did consider an ATB but I'd like the option to lock up the axle completely. It's a pity that the ATB can't be combined with the locker as that would give the best of both worlds. Having to have air is a bit of a pain, at least initially, but I intend to fit an engine driven compressor so, long term, not a problem.

    I had a chat with Nige and he recommended a HD ring and pinion as the standard 4.7 is weak. He didn't reckon pegging it was really necessary.

    Thinking long term, I'd ideally like to add an ATB to the front axle although, unfortunately, it would have to be ten spline so the Ashcroft ATB is out.

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