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Everything posted by HoggyN
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Thanks. I’ve had some help from the Facebook Lightweight group and 201 is actually a valid prefix for a Lightweight, but with a suffix “A”. This has a suffix “B”
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I have a series front axle that I believed to be off a lightweight but it seems that might not be. It has the lightweight shafts and a reinforced case but the number is wrong. Apparently, the number should start with 236 or 951, not 201. Can anybody shed any light on what L/R an axle starting with 201 would have been fitted to?
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More musings. The assumptions I made were that the intermediate crank and sump would fit the 3.5 block. That the P38 front cover would fit the front of the 3.5 block with the intermediate sump as long as I also used a P38 cam, cam drive chain/sprockets. That the oil pickup from the intermediate would also fit the P38 front cover. However, hours perusing the internet confirms what has been said above, that the P38 cover will not fit unless the matching P38 sump and oil pick up are also fitted. I hadn't considered that the oilways in the 3.5 block might not match the cover. However, it looks like that may not be a problem. I had forgotten about the cam retaining plate too. The 3.5 block won't have the tapped holes necessary to fit it. I'm still a bit puzzled as to why the P38 crank has a longer nose. I know that you need a spacer if you fit vee belt pulleys on a P38 crank. I might need to do the same, perhaps with a longer bolt to do the opposite. The only ancillary I need to drive is an alternator and I was going to mod and move the existing belt tensioner to get a decent wrap around the water pump pulley. I might need to replace the smooth pulley with a grooved one though. In this thread, somebody is doing the opposite and it’s full of useful pictures. It’s a good read too… http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=49330&page=20
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Thanks both. I actually have a full intermediate engine that I was going to rebuild with a 3.5 block. However, I want it shorter and It looks like I can get an extra inch and a half by dumping the dizzie and fitting the P38 cover. The crank from the intermediate will drive the oil pump but I wasn't sure about the front pulley because the crank nose is shorter than that on a P38.
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I'm just about to write a letter to Santa asking for a cordless angle grinder for Christmas. However, I'm not sure whether to ask for a 4.5" or 5" type. My corded grinders are 4.5" and my stock of discs etc. is sized to suit but I can't .really see any reason why I can't use 4.5" discs on a 5" grinder so the bigger size might be a more versatile choice. Am I missing something?
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Thanks for the replies. I do have a Series clutch pressure plate so I should be able to use that to get the dowel PCD and diameter from that and knock up a drawing. I believe that the people that used to sell the adapter kits (Phillips?) also supplied a drawing for the flywheel mods and I was hoping to get a copy to save a bit of time.
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I wear prescription safety specs and a full face mask for grinding. Glasses friendly goggles on their own didn't stop me having to make two trips to the eye hospital (one the day before my wedding). A full face mask is a must after having a 9" disc disintegrate in my face. I was wearing a mask so it was a complete non-event. I've seen pictures on Pirate of different outcomes.
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I'm in the process of getting parts together for a V8 conversion and I need to get a Range Rover flywheel drilled and dowelled to take a Series clutch cover. The bloke who is doing the job for me has asked for drawings. Do any exist? If anybody has the dimensions, I could create the drawing myself. TIA
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I had the same problem with the Aldi Cetek type chargers switching off after a power cut. I replaced them with a couple of these... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NCS-MOTORCYCLE-SPECIFIC-SMART-12V-ACID-BATTERY-CHARGER-OPTIMISER-MAXIMISER-/200905657536?hash=item2ec6e90cc0:g:vOAAAOxy86RSVVMx They do the job.
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I have them on my TR7 V8. As already said, you just need to sort the breathers out. The oil filler is in a different place too, from memory.
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I once ordered 3 brake hoses from Paddocks. They charged me for 300. Quickly sorted though.
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So do I. Nice one.
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I could probably get them to Perth in a couple of weeks, but it would still cost you the GB postage plus the post from Perth to Melbourne. Hardly worth it for the sake of a couple of quid.
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OBDII readers - what can you tell me (slightly O/T)
HoggyN replied to mickeyw's topic in Tools and Fabrication
I bought a £50 Chinese jobby of Ebay and it does loads of stuff. I can even use it to help bleed the brakes on my car/ Looking at it now, on the Corsa, it will scan and reset codes for engine, brakes, instruments, climate, gearbox, immobiliser, restraints, multfunction (park assist, power steering, radio, trailer interface) and service light reset. -
How about a magnetic plug? http://www.megasquirt-v8.co.uk/diff_offroad.php
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Getting in, and especially out of, an armoured vehicle fast is a big safety yes-yes.
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It an IMI Combat Guard...
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I wouldn't wrap anything around your piston stop tool. Sod's law will dictate that, whatever you use, it will fall off inside the cylinder. Unless you turn the engine over on the starter or use a starting handle, you will,have to work hard to damage a piston with a bare bolt.
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Is the little TDC pointer thingy on the front cover in the right place?
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Are you using a strobe?
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LHD series III 109 1980. should i expect imperial or metric thread on
HoggyN replied to xychix's topic in Series Forum
They are M16 Front and rear, right and left. -
This has to be a wind up!