HoggyN
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Posts posted by HoggyN
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With regard to the 20 degree roof pitch. I have a 5 degree roof pitch on an outbuilding and haven't had any issues at all. It's roofed with traditional 3" profile corrugated iron.
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thats a good truck in theory, in practice hes had to modify the chassis and i doubt he's iva'd it so its not road legal.
If it was bobbed over twenty years ago, it pre-dates the no mods to the frame rules so shouldn't need an IVA to be legal.
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According to their website, Rocky Mountain UK are out of stock for overdrives for both Defender and Series with no prices being shown for either at the moment.
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Under the bonnet?
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Yes, and I suspect that the last word shouldn't be statue either.
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They are about £1500 in the UK. The series one used to be cheaper than the Defender type but the price jumped up recently.
I was seriously considering buying one but the extra couple of hundred quid or so increase dampened my enthusiasm somewhat.
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Apparently, Nissan Micras built after 2011 are not approved for towing.
The Mrs Brady Old Lady type were, it seems.
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What annoys me is that it insurance has moved away from the original idea of everyone pays the same to cover the one of the many that has an accident. Personally I'd put insurance on fuel duty, that way there would be no uninsured drivers and it would be equitable for all. I know young drivers crash more ( I did) but then we all get older and more sensible and it evens out.
I think the system that some (all?) Australian states use has its merits. Basic third party is included for any driver with the annual road tax. If you want more than that you pay extra.
One downside is that it makes big V8 cars accessible to very inexperienced drivers.
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That is a big van. Reminds me of the one on this video...
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Had a chance to put some miles on the S1 today. Despite towing as well, it didn't miss a beat so it looks like the problem may well have been over volting. The coil was quite warm but not so hot that I couldn't grab it and hold on to it for a minute or so,
Thanks for all the suggestions.
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At my work Solidworks is the norm. However, I introduced Inventor for a project and most that have used both say it has the edge.
If you want to model in 3D, I'd go for Solidworks over Autocad.
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That's a 1953 body shell, not a 1953 car.
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The MoT for my S1 takes about 10 - 15 minutes because there isn't much to test. Not even seat mountings as there aren't any. Unfortunately, the computer makes us wait for an hour before it will spew out the pass certificate.
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The EU want MoT's every two years and exemption after 30.
I am not a fan of EU "one size fits all" meddling. The different states that make up the US seem to have a great deal of autonomy yet manage to trade with each other and abroad perfectly well.
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Just looked at the link I posted again and thought it said "molester".
I think I need to clean this screen.
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This is old news, from 2014. However, the changes are supposed to be introduced next year.
They seem to hinge on what the DfT decrees are "substantial changes" from how the car was built.
I must admit, it has made me hang back on putting a V8 in my S1.
http://www.motester.co.uk/mot-news/mot-news/new-eu-mot-rules-starting-from-2017
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That's true, and 15 watts extra may just tip the balance beyond what heat the coil can dissipate adequately..
I've been a bit busy since adjustingthe voltage so haven't had a chance to do a test run yet to see if it has made any difference. I may try Steve's suggestion too to isolate the ignition system from the charging circuit.
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Dwell angel 55 degrees. Coil resistance 3 ohms. 12v stamped on the bottom.
However, the voltage at the coil is 15.3 - 15.5 volts which is a bit high. Now adjusted to 13.9 - 14.0
It seems such a small change though that I can't see it curing the problem.
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If you have the correct coil, and you aren't overvolting the system (unlikely in a typical S1!), then excessive dwell angle would seem the likely culprit. Have you set the points properly?
The points were set properly at it's last service and It's probably only done 1000 miles since then. However, I'll check them tomorrow.
As you say, over volting is unlikely but I'll check anyway as the voltage regulator was changed fairly recently. I've had a Google and it seems just about any electrical fault can lead to an overheating coil!
e.g.
Other reasons for coils overheating include a bad or missing engine ground strap, Corrosion in the distributor, bad point plate ground wire, corroded points, weak or improper (high output) condenser, large point or plug gap, high resistance spark plugs or wires, bad coil wire, bad electrical connections in the ignition circuit (anywhere HT or LT), bad ignition cap or rotor, Literally any tune-up parts not up to par.
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Thanks.
The first coil was from a Series 2 one from Paddocks and the second coil was a Bosch equivalent of PRC9858. Both 12v non-ballast coils.
I'll measure the resistance tomorrow.
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I'm having an issue with my S1 where it starts to falter after 12 miles. The first time it happened I assumed the fault lay with the coil as it got too hot to touch so I swapped it for a new Bosch one. It hasn't helped, the new coil also gets too hot to touch, so the fault seems to lie elsewhere. I can still only manage 12 miles before the engine starts to falter. Eventually it stops and will only restart if I pour water over the coil to cool it down.
What could be causing this? Poor quality ignition leads has been suggested.
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You may be correct but it wasn't an assumption. My neighbour is a chartered surveyor. In my specific circumstances I had confirmation that a steel building would fully meet building regs... if not planning requirements. I had a site inspection and a quote from a company that specialises in custom made steel buildings (the footprint isn't square) and cost was going to be around £12k plus £5.5k for the slab. I have only had informal estimates for stone on a raft but it is looking like looking like it's going to cost over £30k.I'd be very careful with that assumption, if you're close to the boundaries the steel will need fireproofing.
When I rang one of those steel building companies that advertise on Ebay, they advised that if you were going to build a garage/workshop at the bottom of the garden of a typical row of semis or terraced houses, it would actually be about the same price to build out of stone. I picked my jaw up off the floor and rang my local builder instead.
Oh to have land...
As you say... Oh to have land!
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I was shocked how expensive it is to build a brick and tile garage - I'd done a bit of research beforehand and was expecting it to come out around £10k - think that was mostly based on quite out of date information! We had three quotes for the work, two of which were roughly the same (one was £20k for the garage, but offset by more for the house extensions - overall they were virtually identical) and one was significantly more.
I'm starting the process of getting a garage/workshop built. Timber was out because I want to build close to the boundary. My neighbour suggested steel as it is fireproof and cheap. It's also light so the foundations are cheap too. Unfortunately, the council had other ideas and have insisted on stone. Because of the proximity to trees, 3 metre foundations were also required to take the weight of the masonry. Three metre foundations would undermine the footings of the main house so, without resorting to extensive underpinning, a raft foundation was suggested.
I'm currently resubmitting the plans, but I been warned that it's not going to be a cheap build.
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How do you link up the remote filter? With a sandwich plate or can you tap direct off the front cover higher up?
Sounds like I need to find a serp now.
Workshop Ideas
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
You can overhang the boundary if the neighbour agrees. Currently my planned garage will overhang the boundary with next door, as does the guttering on the whole back side of my house. It would be a good idea to get it added to the deeds as an easement though... which costs more money.