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About nas90

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    Old Hand

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  • Location
    Burgess Hill, West Sussex

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  • Interests
    Land Rovers, off-roading, competitions, gliding, drinking and working.

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  1. Jim .dxf files, attached hope it works, so fingers crossed..............! Young Nigel of Megasquirt fame might be able to permanently link these files to LR4x4.com LR Def Wing Top Pair RH.dxf LR Def Wing Top Pair LH.dxf LR Def Bonnet Top.dxf
  2. I've stayed with BPR6E from Halfrauds, about £3 each, I normally change them every 12,000 miles. Thanks for your input, especially not using platinum Dave
  3. Time for a new set of plugs on the old nas90. I have always used NGK plugs for the past 25 years on all of my vehicles, I think know they are the best. Currently I am using BPR6E and just wonder if anyone has experience of a better grade of plug to use in the V8? I run LPG and petrol, it's a Turner reconditioned 3.9 litre V8 Efi as fitted to Disco's in 95 / 96 vintage. Mods, I felt that due to the Defender forum being full of diseasel buffs International forum would get more replies.
  4. If it's any help Nick, I can make you some FOC bead locks to save some dosh?
  5. yes but let the galvanisers do this, probably a technicality in there somewhere
  6. Exactly - Powder coat will not (fully) get to the inside, the powder is applied electrostatically, much better to get a galvaniser to galvanise and powder coat outside and as much of inside as possible. Threads will need cleaning after galvanising. Time in oven is crucial to get the whole of the metal chassis at correct temperature and LR chassis do vary in thickness at key stress points. We have just made a lot of frames using 100x50x2mm wall steel box (nicely welded by Paul at the Forge )and then powder coated and the coating did not reach fully inside. But because the frames will be used indoors not a big issue for corrosion. Other replies regarding bull bars are not entirely correct, most of these are coated in a dipped plastic coating and yes the water does get under the coating when damaged mainly because the coating forms a layer rather than a bonded coating. Powder coat is much tougher, I had most of the black steel parts off the nas about 6 years ago, galvanised and black powder coat and very little chipping and although dulled by UV soon comes up brighter with some T-Cut and elbow grease
  7. Chris, best I cut you a thin aluminium plate for you to check hole positions if Nick can give me some dimensions. Then cut you a 6mm steel plate, nice bit of Domex700? I could then put a .dxf on the forum and until LR change the design (again) will be there for all to use.
  8. oil and grease attracts dust and muck which apparently is not good for locks graphite powder is recommended
  9. Whilst on the subject of heaters my heater blower lever is difficult to get on 2nd speed is that Ralphs tech archive tip and remember I am LHD. Also is the blower motor power switch in the flap on the heater or on the lever in the cab. Having just replaced the blower motor on the nas and in the summer had the heater matrix re-newed by others there is a resistor next to the blower motor that controls the 2 speeds on the blower? Dave
  10. Chris, you always complain that the nas heater is too hot when we travel on overseas trip, but then it's a V8....................
  11. This topic was covered last winter and wd40 / oil / grease / others are not good for locks so I went and bought a can of graphite powder from my local lock shop
  12. Oil changes Once a year with average mileage say 10,000 tarmac only probably OK Extreme weather, high temps, low temps, high rainfall and possibly g'box and t'box OK but diffs oil could do with a 6 month change If you then throw-in off-roading then I would change diffs oil every 3 months, g'box and t'box every 6 months Dave
  13. The blocks Turner's use are cracked, just not enough to be scrap. They check length and position of cracks if within limits they use the block. I think there is an o ring seal at the base of the liner and the top hat sits under the head to seal. Turner's machine the liner so that there is no difference in height between block and liner. Therefore although the block is cracked there is nowhere for the water to go but back into the block again!
  14. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Exactly my sentiments, could not have put it better myself, the anti's will take whatever view they want from a statement, just think about our poor old MP's who have been so misunderstood these past 12 months, what with duck houses falling to pieces.............
  15. Or I can supply some mesh for a beer token Simon's good idea is to use the gap betweeh the rad and the plastic grille with a 90deg small return on the mesh which sits on top of the rad just clearing the bonnet catch When the mesh dries lift-out knock against something solid and mud drops-out put back in front of rad, simple, effective Dave
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