Aggieturbo

There's a a fuel line in and out on my 110 fuel tank with a coupling on each, to allow removal of the tank. What size are these coupling nuts? a 14mm is too small and a 15mm is too big. a 9/16 A/F fits in a kinda way, which is how i removed them (but definately not right!). Are they whiworth or something? Both sides of the coupling are a different size too. And whilst were on the subject, when did Land Rover go metric? I seem to have a mixture on mine, and some of them are obviously original, not accessories. Thanks Tony

Just did the same with my fuel tank. 4 nuts and a couple pipes! so far it's been about 6 hours and still not off. Mind you at the end of the day the tank was loose, but the anti roll bar is now stopping it dropping out. Got to go and buy a jack and axle stands tomorrow. It's a great way to learn though isn't it? (If I say it enough I'll belive it)

PM sent.

Yes!! Tony 1 Landrover 0! Got it off by drilling it out. The 1/2" drive nearly worked, but i think the nut was just to secure. I'll worry about putting it back together another day. Thanks for all you help. Tony.

Dave, Thanks for the links,those items could prove useful in the future but as you can see from the post from Les they're not going to help on this occasion. Les, Thanks for the picture explaining how a Land Rover is really put together, I'm beginning to realise that the Haynes manual should be taken as a guide only. I guess the first thing is to drill out the old one, then worry about how to get it all back together. Of course the problem then will be that i may need to get it to an expert for the solution as I'm only a beginner/amateur, with limited tooling (although my tool kit sems to be used alot now i've bought a 110) I'll try the 1/2" drive now.

I can't get mole grips onto the nut, what are easy outs?

I'm 3/4 way through removing a fuel tank from my 110 and have come across a problem. there are 4 nuts holding the tank on, two front and two back. One of the two (13mm) nuts has rounded off. The manual says that they are a nut and bolt, but when i removed the other one the bolt stayed firmly where it was. Does that mean its fixed to the chassis and not a nut and bolt like the Haynes manual says? if I drill out the rounded nut/bolt, will i have a problem putting a new one on? Can anyone suggest a way out of this predicament?

Les, I have the same on the rear of my 1988 110, can you simply remove the bolts, pull out the drive member and replace the gasket without removing the wheel? Thanks, Tony

Does it pay to spend the extra tenner on a master cylinder or do they go again just as quickly? I've seen them for sale from £12.00 to £27.00 and it's a job I ought to do on my own vehicle.

Yes, it is the one across the bay I'm talking about. I'll have a look in the tourist information when I get there. I wasn't going to take the LR on this trip anyaway. I have two cars, a 110 that does twenty to the gallon at my expense, and one that has company paid fuel! I live in Dorset so its a round trip of 700 plus miles, so its no contest really. I was thinking of maybe hiring a 4x4 for a day I'll also check out hardknott pass as I'm probably only 10 minutes drive away in the Langdales.

Just out of interest really. I was looking at a map (OL7 South Eastern Area) to find some walks for our holiday, when i noticed a BOAT which comes onto the map at 457700, heads off on a N/W direction across the sand to Kents bank. Then there's another going across the other side of the bay from 357765 to 313776. Are these driveable, has anyone got any photos?

Thanks to everybody for joining Sam and me today, and thanks to Dave and Co. for navigating. I thoroughly enjoyed myself. Just finished cleaning the remains of Wiltshire from the inside and the outside of the LR!! If anybody has some pictures they could post that would be good as the Missus took our camera to a birthday bash. Tony.

Just confirming I'm still up for Sunday - See you there at 10:00 Tony.

Thanks, Seems reasonable as long as i carry a few spares around for a while!

Hi All, I've bought the fuseholders from VWP to convert from glass to blade fuses, but note that the fuse ratings don't match up exactly. Should I be going to the next value up or down? Thanks, Tony

I think both the police and your insurance company might want to say something about this! I thought it was against the law to leave the engine running on a public highway (I think the term is 'quitting') However, if it is purely on private land, it's probably a different kettle of fish.

The area shown by the link is exactly where i was going to start, one of the reasons for going is to see what is open and what has been changed. I have two maps with differing information. The trouble with OS is that they take no respnsibility for thier interpretation of the topology, and I don't know where the definitive map would be stored for the Salisbury area. I'll have to go by the latest OS map I guess, and see how they are marked when I get there.

Dave, Send me a PM with enough detail to plot the route you describe, it may well coincide with what I had in mind Regards, Tony

Thyanks guys, It is the part in the picture, I was hoping it would just be a case of a few quid for a bit of box section, removing the small triangular panel, maybe a few nuts and bolts and the odd grazed knuckle! The distance allowed on rust within a structural part is 12" (300mm), the bloke knew the holes were there but didn't seem concrned by them. I guess if it fails next time I'll just get the holes welded.

Can anybody tell me what the piece of frame is called that sits behind the circled area on my 110? If you look from the wheel arch you can see it clearly and mine are rusted through on both sides. it looks like a box section about 2" square and runs at about 45 degrees to the ground. It looks like it has the outer panel riveted to it. Is it structural? (I suspect not as it passed an MOT recently) Can it be replaced relatively easily?

The route is not set, but I'd probably stay to the south side of the plain. Where would you be looking to go Daveturnball? Tony

Thanks for that, another job for my weekend list!

Forgot to look in the Haynes manual this morning, and i need to buy it on the way home tonight. Can anyone tell me what engine oil i need for a 2.5TD please? thanks Tony

So If i decide to paint it with a roller I'd probably not do all the bodywork first. The paint is flaking off, presumably from some oxidisation or something on the alluminium. Can this be stopped with a primer? I'd love to do the work myself, but to be honest, the thought of starting it scares me half to death!!

My 1988 110 CSW needs a new paint job, but before I do that I would have to replace the bulkead, doors, wiring loom, dashboard and probably other bits too once I start stripping it down! I realise that I'll probably end up spending more tha it's restored value, but if i can get the vehicle up to scratch for say £3000, it would still be cheaper than scrapping it and paying out £10000 on a similar condition newer one It's also got a TD lump in it (110k miles), which i know from reading the forum, some people don't like, but I don't really want to change it unless i really have to as I don't have any real problems with it at present. Not having done anything like this before I have no idea really so any thoughts would be appreciated, what sort of money should i expect to pay for a restoration if I don't do myself? I wouldn't be able to spray it anyway. Is there anywhere in or near Dorset that i could get a professional or experienced opinion? Thanks, Tony.