Aggieturbo

Thanks for all your advice, I ended up rectifiying the problem by changing the seals and pistons on the offside too. Anyway, all MOT'd up for another year!

From that last comment Ralph, it sounds like you're almost tempted!

Dave, Ralph, I didn't replace the pads as they looked okay and still quite thick,There was certainly no evidence of fluid on them. It will probably pay to replace both sides anyway. I think I'm going to end up putting it into the garage as I need the vehicle fixed and I have a day job as well; I havent got time to do both. They can check the tracking for me too. It's already booked in for a retest tomorrow, so maybe they can spend some time looking at the problem. Thanks, Tony

Thanks, I'll rebleed the fronts and also do the backs. What's involved with checking the wheel bearings?

Hi, I've just replaced the pistons and seals in my nearside caliper as the LR failed an MOT for pulling to the right when braking. This has made no difference at all! As I'm a bit of a novice at this sort of thing, I'm looking for ideas as to what might be wrong. Is it possible there is still air in the system? how much fluid should I bleed through before accepting that there is non air left? Thanks, Tony

Looks like I should have got part number AEU2539 then, not AUE1547G as I did; or is the AUE1547 different from the AUE1547G?

Thanks Les, I'm not an expert like yourself, but I too thought they should appear on the large side. Now I'll have to wait until Monday to get the right parts

I'm in the middle of repairing my front brakes as the LR is pulling to the right at the moment. I bought the pistons and the seal kit seperately ( I realise I could have bought them together and saved a few pence now!) but think i have the wrong seals. They are all too small, the top metal ring sits inside it's groove with about 1mm of air all around it!! The rubbers are equally as small. I would have thought the metal ring would be slightly oversized so that it has to be pushed tightly into its slot. The parts I have are BM No. BR 3577G (or A Rov No. EU1547G) The pistons seem okay as they slide into the cliper snugly. when trying it all out for size,The metal ring will sit on top of the piston, bur there is no way it will go around Can anyone tell me if they are wrong or if I'm just not doing it right? I've tried to attach a photo to show what i mean. the left hand side piston slot has the rubber and the metal ring fitted. Thanks, Tony

Heater? Rear Demister? what are they, its an 88 Land Rover for goodness sake! - Your probably right though, I do try to be conservative with the eletcrics.

The vehicle doesn't get used much, maybe only once in two weeks, and it turned over very slowly this morning. In the end I had to put it on charge for a couple of hours to get it to start. It had a new Bosch battery in Feb 2007 so would have thought that was okay. I guess it's just lack of use and the cold weather. Does anybody know how far you need to travel to replace the power used to start it? the other problem is that when I do use it I may only go a total of 10 miles including a stop. I have an isolator switch by the battery compartment, I think I'll try using that to se if it preserves that battery.

My LR draws about 140 milliamps when everything is switched off. Presumably this is the clock as there is nothing else I can think of. I don't have anything non-standard (that I am aware of!). Does this value sound ok or is it too high? Thanks, Tony

No, lift the sunroof, put on some clear mastic in place of a gasket, re-seat the sunroof and wipe away any surplus. It just seems like a cheap solution if you can't get a new gasket

Can you use a bead of mastic instead of a seal? or is that just toooooo messy?

Thanks, I'll order one tomorrow. I've now got a job for the weekend.

Do i need a new washer for the drain plug on the block?

Can I just release the upper and lower radiator hoses to let it drain, then flush the radiator and the block with a hose, before putting it back in again with the appropriate amount of antifreeze? Will I need anything apart from antifreeze and water? Thanks, Tony

Hi Matt, Unlike Western, I had no end of trouble with my glass fuses, so replaced them with a fuse block available from Vehicle Wiring Products (part number FBB8U). Just a tiny bit of filing to make the panel hole slightly longer and no more problems with the electrics! Tony

And surely it must also be the last one you need to get out!

Thanks, So it looks like it is supposed to be blanked off in that case. What would its function be if there was a second tank?

During my recent fuel tank change I discovered the Breather tube had been removed, probably something to do with the second tank that was on when I bought the LR. Now I have only one tank I want to refit the tube but don't know where it should go or what it should be made of. How long should the tube be? Should it have a filter or something on the end? The breather in question is on a 110 rear mounted fuel tank, Its the one that sits on it's own, not the one that fits to the fuel filler. Thanks, Tony.

Most people give me a quote with no mention of the number of seats, it's only when I ask how many seats are covered that they check. I could get a quote without bothering to ask, but in the event of an accident it may come to light and be used as an excuse not to pay out. I'll check back with the NFU again and maybe try and get somebody that knows a bit more about LR's; The guy I spoke to didn't even know what a CSW was.

My insurance is up for renewal and I'd like to be able to use all the seats in my 110. My present insurance only covers me for 7, and the NFU just told me thiers would only cover me for 5. Does anybody know where I can get a quote for all 11 seats? I am aware that I'll probably have to fit seat belts, but I'd like to get a quote before I put them in and find I can't get cover anyway! Thanks, Tony

Thanks, I've still got the TD in it but I have done something similar when I replaced the fuel filter so have an idea whatt to do, and I think you must be showing your age a bit if you still call it a Marathon! ( mind you, I called it a Marathon when I was a kid too.)

I'm just waiting for the bits to arrive before I put the new fuel tank in the 110, and thought of a few questions Mr Haynes doesn't seem to have an answer for. 1) Do the couplings on the two fuel pipes need any sealent or an olive, I'd hate to get it all back together only to find they leak!? 2) Do i need to swill out the new tank with diesel before I fit it? 3) Will i need to do anything before I try turning the engine over (Bleeding or priming)? 4) Is there life on Mars?... oh sorry thats a different forum isn't it! Thanks, Tony

Just went to try it as I've never really thought about it, and... Definately out!