Aggieturbo

Have a look at the wet roads website at www.wetroads.co.uk, not green lanes but some good fords. I've also sent you a PM about going out sometime.

I purchased my LR with a tank on it just like the one you show here, except i didn't realise it was there until it started leaking! It turned out that i must have hit the bracket that holds the mudflap on and now there is a tiny leak from the weld. Can you tell me how much you paid for the tank, so I know if it's worth repairing? Apparently a new filler pipe will set me back about £25, so I'm considering doing away with the secondary tank if it proves too dear to fix.

Of course all of the above assumes that the wiring is still as per the Land Rover build spec.! My 1988 110 has had some 'work' done on the electrics, and it now takes me the best part of a morning to trace any electrical fault! I might as well throw away the wiring diagram.

So it looks like mudflaps get the thumbs up. I personally like the idea of a curtain on the rear cross member (it will also mean i can remove the bracket from the second fuel tank, thus avoiding any more leaks!). I may try and knock something up with a quick release so i can take it off when not needed. Thanks for all your replies.

I have a 1988 110 CSW with an extra fuel tank behind the bodywork where the filler is. I was totally unaware it existed until it developed a leak the other day. Turns out it is probably due to a crack in the weld where the mudflap bolts on for the O/Side rear wheel. Do I put them back on once I've got the tank repaired? I imagine this happened when i was green laning, so assume mudlaps are a bad idea in that situation, but not having had the vehicle long, would like to know what people think of mudflaps in general. I've never had flaps on any other car, so don't really consider them important. Thanks. Tony

Have you got glass fuses? if so they corrode terribly. remove the battery and rub the fusebox connections with a small wire brush (something like a plug cleaner) and a bit of vinigar to remove the corrosion. do the same on the fuses before putting them back

When i got back from my first ever green laning day, the white LR was a bit of a mess so i hosed it down with a jet attachment. I also did under the arches and on the chassis and then went to bed dreaming about my next trip. tonight i lifted the bonnet to do my weekly checks on the engine and there was a pile of dried mud where my engine used to be!! Looking at it now, it's obvious that this will happen as the fan is probably spraying water all over the engine as well as it being thrown up from the floor. My questions are: Can i hose the engine down? Are there any parts i should avoid? Should the engine be running when i do it? Is it bad to spray cold water onto hot metal? any advise on general cleaning after a day out would be great! PS. It's a 1988 110 2.5TD Thanks Tony

I'd be very surprised if the side, main and full lights run from the same fuse. My older LR (1988) certainly has seperate fuses, and for safety reasons I would have thought yours would be designed the same way. I recently had an earth problem which took out my sidelights, you can check it quite easily by running a temporary bit of wire from the light fitting to the chassis. As both are out it's more likely to be an earth or supply problem than blown lamps. Good luck.

Mine sits at about the 3/4 mark.

Just come back from my first outing, had a great morning thanks to AndyB. Heres a picture of me having fun, and I can't wait to get out again.

Hi All, I've got steel wheels painted white on my vehicle, but they've started to rust and look a bit shabby and I want to do something with them before they get to bad to recover. Can anyone tell me the best way to restore them, what paint do I use? do I need to strip them right back? should I put a base coat of something on to stop the rusting? The one in the picture is probably the worst of the five. Thanks.

Have you done this? where did you get the bits?

As i can't afford a winch I thought it might be useful to have a rope in the back of the truck, in case some kind person wants to help me out if i get stuck! What length is useful (apparently 4 metres is the legal maximum for road towing)? Is it worth getting anything other than that? Can i connect multiples of 4 metres together? What tonnage should it be capable of pulling, bearing in mind the vehicle is likely to be 2 tonnes standing, but could well exert more load if it gets stuck. What materials do they come in? Thanks.

I was driving through puddles only a couple of foot deep, but it ended up all over my roof. And sides. And back. And dashboard. And just about everywhere!! only a couple frrt deep!! when does a puddle become a pond? I'm new to this off roading business and dont really know what depth of water i can go through without too much risk of damage?

I saw your post elsewhere and had a look on the VWP website. I've ordered some fuses from them Thanks

I placed a post regarding the problem I'm having getting the correct fuses, this might just be the answer I'm looking for! I'll run it for a month or two to see how it goes. my plan is only to keep this LR for a short period, so don't want to do more than I need to. If problems persist I'll change the fuse housing as it doesn't look to onerous a job. If I do change my mind and keep it, then I need to change the bulkhead anyway, so will do it all then. These vehicles certainly keep you occupied don't they?!

Following on from the headlight repair... I need to replace all the fuses as they are looking a bit grubby, some are the wrong physical size, and ALL are the wrong current rating! They appear to be a slightly smaller than the 1 1/4 inch standard that they sell in most auto shops. I've looked on the net today but not managed to find anywhere. Even tried the LR maindealer, but he didn'e sem to have any! Does anybody know of a stockist?

Fixed it!! Turned out it was the fuse box after all. There was corrosion on the terminals where the fuse sits, so although it looked like there was power on both sides of the fuse, it wasn't getting beyond that. thanks for your help.

I've changed the diaphram in the injector pump as the man in the garage said it would be that! Not been over 60mph yet but i haven't had the problem recur. Lets keep my fingers crossed!

1988 Land Rover 110 CSW. Can anyone tell me the route of the wires from the fusebox to the nearside headlight? I've lost my dipped headlight but not the full beam. The sealed unit has been replaced as it was blackened, but that made no difference. I've checked that the power gets from one side of the fuse carrier to the other, so no blown fuse. I will try cleaning the fittings on the fusebox as they are a bit corroded, but I'm fairly confident the power leaves the fusebox ok. I don't see where the power could be going missing as the manual says there is nothing between the fuse and the sealed unit!!

Whooooh!! So much info so quickly, Ill check out some of the clubs and no doubt see some of you guys out and about. Thanks for all the advice.

I've just got my first landrover and want to have a go at some green lanes. The problem is that i don't have a winch (or the money to buy one!!) and I don't know anybody locally to ask. I presume it's not a good idea to go out on your own as you could end up stuck, would anybody like to come out and show me the ropes? I live in East Dorset, near Poole, and presume Salisbury would be the best venue.

It's not so much what it left the factory with, but more about insurers generally not wanting to insure a vehicle with that many seats! If you don't check that your insurance covers you for 11/12 seats then you could be in a whole heap of trouble in the event of an accident.

Can anyone tell me the fuel shut-off valve (is that the same as the solanoid?) is on my 2.5TD??

I realised my mistake with the glowplug comment about an hour after i posted it, whilst reading the manual i've just bought. I do get white/grey smoke at start up but assumed that was just because it was a tired diesel! can the timing be checked easily, I'm a bit of a novice at the moment? I've had a look inside the 2 inch (ish) pipe that goes from the turbocharger to the air cleaner and and there was certainly a black film which looked like oil (is this the same area as the air filter Les? I'll read the manual again later tonight!). I had it off at the turbo end to refit the jubilee clip. I've also noticed that the pipe from the snorkal to the air cleaner box is no longer round in places, the metal rings seem to have fatigued and snapped. Is it worth changing this? Can you get one from any Land Rover parts dealer? I looked at the Air element condition indicator, but as i don't know what a good or bad indication looks like, don't know what to make of it. I'll try draining the filter again and have a listen as i pump. One thing to point out is that i had the centre cross member replaced a week ago so could the pipeline be damaged? is it metal or plastic/rubber? I'll probably not get a chance to look at this until next Saturday, but I'll let you know how i get on. Thanks for your advice so far.