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Posts posted by Mack
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Hi all
I had a look to the tech archive, but I´m not sure if it is necessary to replace the inner axle seals when greasing the wheel bearings.
It is a Puma (same as Td5 setup, I believe).
thanks
M
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Dumb question?
Sounds to me the slave cylinder problem is kind of a chronic issue with LR? I have a Puma (uuuuu very unreliable rig) so therefore my question.
thanks
M
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adjustable Rancho RS9000. Avoid LLAMA4x4
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Thanks guys.
The thing is that I got the 10 spline ARB by mistake and the seller (US) apparently did not bother at the end that I keep it. Have been trying to sell it here for a long time.....
The expensive part is the whole set of 6 gears. ARB do not sell just the 2 of them I need
I´ll ask aschroft just in case.
cheers
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Hi chaps
I have a RD-03 10 spline and I need to convert it into a 24 spline (basically a RD-56). Anybody had the chance to do something similar?
thanks
M
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As you know the Puma had/has some issues with the drivetrian, including poor clutch design. The other day I heard a clink coming from somewhere in front. I thought was part of diesel knocking stuff. However, after the whole thing was at normal temperature the little bell sound was still there and the frecuency increased as the engine got revs. Open the hood and I could tell the ring wasn`t coming from there, but I would say from the clutch/gearbox area. I thought: the clutch again! Now, there is no noise whatsoever . Could have been a spring coming out from the clutch disc? Any clues?
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What's the part number on the packet ?
If it ends in a G it's considered to be "genuine" or OEM.
yes, all numbers end with a G. I guess I´ll live with that. No chance to send them back.
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I order by mail some seals to have them in stock. I was carefully specifying Genuine and I was quoted genuine ones. ^Parcel arrived with britpart stuff. The sales person replied : "These seals are now the genuine specification. We don't keep these seals in stock, I got these in for you."
For sure they are genuine britpart, but I guess all agree Genuine meant Land Rover
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I think front std shoxs are a bit longer (i would not mind)
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Hi guys
last time, the dealer installed the new (overhauled by LR) transfer box on my 110 Puma. For the purpose he took the whole bunch of gears from the top of the tcase (main shaft it is called I think). Anyway it is the shaft that connects the Tcase with the gearbox, in order to fit the latter`s output shaft into the Tcase.
Question: by doing this procedure are all tolerances and original torques lost?
thanks
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Hi Chaps
as the title suggests, LR deliveries both types of parts. Specifically is there a downside on getting a remanufacturated transfer case?
I know it shouldn`t, but in the real world is it actually a better deal (despite the cost) to get a rather a new part for warranty purposes?
thanks
M
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Yes, I'd say it sounds like a problem there then.
Out of curiosity I've just been out and checked mine, jacked up one front wheel (couldn't be bothered taking the prop off,) handbrake on, centre diff lock engaged and main gears in neutral. I get about 35° of free rotation of the front output shaft by turning the jacked up wheel.
Have you tried it with the difflock and handbrake on? you could get misleading results otherwise.
Got 45º, exactly 1/8 of a turn.
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Yes, front prop off. Turned half way until the back prop started to move. Seems like the center diff is done.
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it is well balanced and no vibs at all.
I can rotate the front output shaft like half a turn! That is strange for a new TCase.
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Hi guys
I have a weird question. My dealer is blaming my double cardon propshaft to be the cause of wearing the TCase`s lower pinions, all due to a higher mass of the the prop. However, IIRC the front Puma propshaft is one of the shortest compared to a Td5 or any Tdi. Is that correct? So whoever has any info regarding the weight or lenght of the part would be much appreciated.
I found the 200Tdi is 65.3 cm.
thanks
M
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I´ll see how it goes with 85W/140 EP oil. I assume the Mo2S is used to coat the CV and bearings when the whole stuff is cold.
thank you people
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just warm the sachet in hot water for a while before filling, will help it flow into the swivel easier.
The problem is I do not have access to the STC3435 Sachet. So I was thinking to mix some EP oil and moly-grease. But, how thick the muck should be?
cheers
M
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Hi guys.
Was wondering how to prepare the one shot grease for the swivels. Anyone played doing proper mixtures? I guess it is EP90+how much moly grease?
thanks
M
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AVOID LLAMA4X4
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Boy
you can see my story on
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=50532
Yes, they soft and cheap. Good enough though for the front. If you decide, try not to get involved with llama4x4.
M
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Have you PMd him on here? David@llama
Bear in mind it is Christmas tomorrow so may take a little while for him to reply....
*edit* meant to say, do you not have a phone? People often respond better to some human contact, even if just a voice, than written correspondence...
Not sure if you read my post. Regarding the phone, yes; I do have but I would suggest you not to use it with David as he will talk to you for hours
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Sounds like something is not right there - David is excellent at customer service.
I am sure he will see this thread and sort you out!
Well not even this thread is effective. What a Cr#p!
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Last year I spent over 3 months in the UK (Surrey). I ordered a set of long travel 4 Rough Country shoxs for my Puma 110". Anyway, I brought them back along with my luggage (heavy stuff)and after arrival I realized 2 of them were faulty. So, I emailed llama4x4 to get a copy of the invoice in order to claim the warranty with the local RC representative (no point to send them back to the UK). After 10 emails&PM´s (knowing he got them)the only answer was "ok, no problem ,I´ll try, etc". Never heard from the chap again. I have to add that when the shoxs arrived at Egham they were lacking of their rubber boots as shown on his web site. No rough country decals neither
Tip: Stay away & go somewhere else.
MK
Greasing wheel bearings
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Right. I asked because I ordered a set of genuine seals, but I got "Britpart G", G standing for genuine