steve200TDi
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Posts posted by steve200TDi
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Oooow a metal folder!
I like a tool build!
This might need to be moved to its own thread for all to see!
Steve
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I thought clutch alignment tools are universal like these:
Video here:
But When I've done it, I've just done it by eye. Ok, I may have had to do a bit more wiggling to get the gearbox mated to the engine, but it was definitely doable and saves buying another tool you wont use very often.
Steve
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Lower by 2-3 what's?
It could be your injector copper washers.
I think white smoke refers to coolant loss, as blue smoke is oil and could relate to valve stem oil seals.
Steve
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Unfortunately North Off road have gone out of business, but not from poor workmanship!
I too bought a front windscreen hoop and an internal cross from Whitbread and did the rest myself.
Regards
Steve
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Excellent, glad you're sorted it!
Steve
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Hmm, this may help:
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic45172.html
Sounds like there may be a circlip type arrangement and with a bit of for the diff and drive shaft can be forced apart allowing the clip to be pushed back into a groove and the two coming apart........maybe
Steve
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Looks nice and robust, keep the updates coming!
Steve
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I have just found this from the Full Fat Range Rover forum:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5al230KXbSyckM0cERBcXZyY00/view
From this thread: https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic17623.html
On page 329 it says quote 'The differential unit is secured to the engine sump with 4 bolts.'
Have you removed the drive shafts?
Steve
P.S. More info here too:
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Maybe a picture might help.
Then you can add that in your build thread once we've helped you remove the diff!
Steve
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It does all sound rather interesting, so it may happen in the future!
On the subject of computers, I was rather chuffed I managed to order and fit a new battery to my laptop, so now it doesn't have to be permanently plugged in at the wall!!
I'm now looking at a larger SSD and more ram!
Right, I have done a tiny bit more on the racer! I now have steering which is now 5/8th to 2/3rds of a turn quicker! Now I can remake the steering guard and make a stronger drag link.
The shifter is progressing too.
I just need to find a supplier for the little horse shoe/omega/ohm shaped bracket which holds the shifter cable in place. There's a little groove it sits in to stop the cable sliding forwards and backwards.
Any help appreciated!
Steve
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Sorry Western!
2016 Range Rover Sport.
Thanks
Steve
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Hi,
I'm after the plastic insert that fits into the spare wheel in the boot which allows the long threaded rod to hold the wheel secure.
I've found this, but I wanted to see what it would cost new if possible.
Thanks
Steve
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A generic two legged puller will fit both and be more use on other things over a specific land rover puller.
Steve
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The part of the seal you can see from the outside of the vehicle has a small groove contour on it. This should be a datum of how the seal sits/fits.
Steve
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Here's is another sketch of the windscreen seal as a cut through.
Hope this helps
Steve
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23 hours ago, kevin50 said:
Good info there mate Thanks, what roughly was size /diameter of the string you used.?
approx 6mm
17 hours ago, kevin50 said:Pick
Picked windscreen and rubber up today. Had a quick look and I can not for the Life of me see which bit or even which way the screen actually fits in to rubber before putting string in.
It is very stiff / rigid with been new . Should I soak it in the soapy water an hour or so before I start fitting or can soak it first then fit when Im ready ??
As miketomcat has drawn.......Someone else had the same issue (and me) trying to work this out. There's a thitd lip that a filler and doesn't go around the window or frame.
Steve
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Here's when I did mine!
Steve
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18 hours ago, Retroanaconda said:
That is a good idea, I’ll give it a try!
Left to do....
Complete insulation & boarding of roof, insulate and board the vehicle doors, some minor trims on the exterior, downpipes and drainage, landscaping out the front, and a mini-shed out the back for the compressor to live in. So plenty to keep me busy.
I believe James has thought about this!
Steve
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15 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
I don't think return is that critical in a Land Rover.
@steve200TDi might remember the hose he bought, someone like Think Automotive, Merlin Motorsport or Rally Design might have suitable pipe, or a hydraulics shop may well be able to supply the right spec.
Yes, I bought a meter of this:
https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/rubber-in-tank-fuel-hose-by-cohline-per-metre-2190-0615
Regarding the return line, if it doesn't already have a tube that goes to the bottom of the tank then I shouldn't worry. The most important part is to get unaerated fuel to the engine!
Steve
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That looks like it was at one of John Morgans site in West Sussex!
Steve
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The motor is only held in by two long bolts. However there are tinny dowels it sits on or at least one alignment pin as well as RTV as you say.
The brake assembly (make sure you've clamped to two halfs with the clicky middle bit together as all the ball bearings will fall out!) should just slide off, it maybe a bit tight.
Steve
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13 minutes ago, dave88sw said:
Thanks for the replies, i think you're right with the gate pattern, there's definitely a longer throw on the R380. I have the benefit of having a few land rovers about to compare, the gear lever itself on a genuine defender r380 is identical to the lt77 one, the top housing dimensions are the same too so i imagine you're right and i probably need the r380 version.
Regards cutting the handbrake cable, yes they could, but the using the handbrake lever would be easier
. With the pedal lock on and the gearstick locked they will not be able to get it out of gear to tow it or drive it.
That would make sense then as the LT77's gear stick lock is 'cranked' probably to account for it being nearer!
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1 hour ago, smallfry said:
So easy just to cut the handbrake cable.
But the vehicle would then still be in gear if you had the lock on......
Steve
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I think it's just the physical gearstick gate pattern.
Looking at the instructions on Foundary4x4.co.uk, both locks are fitted when the gearbox is in 5th and the transfer box is in High ratio. So I guess there maybe different dimensions between the two boxes.
When I fitted my centre dash in my 90 I had to bend the gearstick and so I had to drill a new hole in the lock for the two halves to twist/slide/run in (that'll make sense when you see the kit). So basically there is room for adjustment if you can visualise how the lock works.
Hope this helps
Steve
P.S. You may need the R380 version, but I don't know if a LT77 top housing would change the layout or distance from the HI/Lo lever.
Thinking about it now it could just be the distance between the two levers that determines which lock you need?
. With the pedal lock on and the gearstick locked they will not be able to get it out of gear to tow it or drive it.
2.4 Puma viscous fan pulley removal advice needed please.
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
You might need this:
https://bellautoservices.co.uk/store/defender-puma-viscous-fan-pulley-spanner/
But also try googling it!
https://www.google.com/search?q=2.4+puma+engine+viscous+fan+removal&source=lmns&bih=789&biw=1440&rlz=1C1CHBF_en-GBGB741GB741&hl=en-US&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjYl_j88onsAhUG_hoKHbdDDAoQ_AUoAHoECAEQAA
Steve