steve200TDi
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Posts posted by steve200TDi
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4 hours ago, landroversforever said:
Steve, did you order from the US or from the Euro site?
My comment sounded like I had bought one, but that knowledge was just from watching his videos, as unfortunately I don't have one!
Steve
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1 hour ago, landroversforever said:
One advantage of the fireball ones ( I think it applies to all of theirs!) is they're good for using without a bench as they've got removable tabs for the joint to rest against to keep it flat as well as square.
Yes, it's very well designed, like all his stuff, so I don't think you'll be disappointed.......just on the price and shipping!
Steve
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I have a couple of these type:
Mine are folded thick steel and galvanised. I haven't used them and will need to check them for squareness when I do. I think they would be very handy when doing fabricating.
I know the cast ones you mean, probably sold by Fireball tools!
Steve
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Are the MPG figures you speak of (Ed, Bish, L19MUD) coming from the dash or physical fill it up and divide the mileage on that tank. As I always get below what the dash says at around 27-28mpg.
Steve
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1 hour ago, Stellaghost said:
Just arrived in the post some 45mm solid round aluminium bar, going to use this for the chassis mounting point, will drill for bolt size and drill box to take full diameter, that should give me plenty of area to tighten up to regards Stephen
Are you going to do a trick with the knife and cut it in two (careful video editing needed!)
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I've found this one:
https://www.sportseats4u.co.uk/product/auto-style-type-bs1-vinyl-seat/
But I see your problem as it's only 1 size fits all type of thing.
Steve
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A few pictures here, when I did mine. I opted to put load bearing axle stands at the front of the chassis and slot in the blue ones under the chassis just for safety.
Steve
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I'm in need of a new/recon steering box for my Dad's pick up as the last one has developed play inside the box.
I wondered if anyone has had recent experience of buying a recon box and it working well with no play or leaks.
I see MM 4x4 are selling recon boxes - anyone had experience with them?
On 3/17/2016 at 5:19 PM, ejparrott said:Well we'll have to see.....Paperwork is already filed safely, rest assured if there's any problems I'll be straight on to them!
How's your box been so far after 6 years?
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Very nice outlook and look at all that space. You're obviously not over looked or hemmed in!
Steve
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Nice Diff holder! It makes working on it so much easier.
Loving the project so far. Now it's nearing completion, have a list of events/places to use it at?
Steve
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I've used this stuff:
Scott Garage Shop Towels | Halfords UK
It is expensive, but each towel is good quality. I guess it's dependent on what you use it for. Cheap stuff for mopping up spills (you could use soak up mats, but there expensive too!) thicker stuff for cleaning and scrubbing.
At work we use the longer width blue roll, something like this:
Premium Professional Blue White Couch Rolls Hygiene Paper Bed Roll 20" 50M 40M | eBay
I'm not sure what brand we use.
Steve
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1 hour ago, Stellaghost said:
Poor workmate 😥
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If anyone watched the new series of Top Gear yesterday, then you might of seen a glimps of what looked like (probably) and electric Land Rover Defender (Doing a drag race) which could be one of the kits mentioned.
Watch this space.
Steve
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19 hours ago, CwazyWabbit said:
At first glance I thought you'd upgraded the rear wheels on your engine hoist!
I thought the same too!
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Dom has an interesting engine crane he's restoring here:
It has adjustable height as well as the hydraulics.
Steve
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On 5/22/2022 at 11:41 AM, simonr said:
I'm sensing a bit of negativity in this thread 🤣
Any of you who have not driven an EV - go and take a test drive in something. Just treat it as a fun day out - rather than an admission it might be any good. I think you might be surprised! Even some of the more crappy ones are really fun to drive!
I used to think a V8 was the best engine to drive, on or off road, until I bought a Td5. With a bit of tweaking, that knocked the spots off most V8's. Unfortunately, it still sounds like a bag of spanners compared to the lovely sound a V8 (petrol) makes.
Then I built an electric Freelander (Mk1) - which is a fairly crappy car. With the electric drive, it transformed it. The quietness & smoothness rivaled the most expensive Range Rover. The torque / acceleration were way too much for the Freelander chassis - I could feel the whole body twisting as it took off. I ended up tuning it right down to make it safe to drive on wet roads. In it's original form, I could spin the wheels a any speed! Also, driving fast / accelerating hard, murders the range. The whole thing cost me under £1000 to build, including the car. It only had a short (27 mile) range - but that's all I needed to get to work & back.
Eventually I scrapped it - but only to build a better EV. The problem is, I never found the 'right' donor car. Right, for me was something small, lightweight, mechanically simple which could handle a lot of power.
Until now - that is! I bought a Polaris General XP1000 last year. It's great fun to drive, has a huge amount of torque (and handles pretty well) and only weighs 600kg. It's engine is about 100Hp and VERY LOUD! The only negative is it's full of CANBUS & Electrickery - but I can deal with that.
My conversion (later this year) will reduce the power to 80Hp. It will only have a range of 60 miles & will weigh 50kg more than the original. I do have a very specific use / need for a vehicle like this. It's kind of an experiment - as I have another future Electric 4x4 planned which will need a lot of the same CANBUS hacking.
I have no illusions about it being 'green' - and don't really care. They are just amazing fun to drive! That said, I've just put in planning permission at home for a 12kW Solar 'pergola' - which is enough to run the house and an EV, particularly if I use one EV as part of the battery storage.
I find this evolution of the automotive market really interesting & exciting. There's hardly been any big changes to the car in the last few decades - other than trying to turn them into a disposable fashion accessory. The manufacturers have developed a product that people buy and have not needed to push the envelope, just a series of small incremental changes
The last really big change was from Steam to ICE. That brought about a total change in the manufacturers who dominated the market. The same is happening again and that more than the change in fuel will change the mindset of what a car is.
Go & try one! It might change your mind! They are not ideal for everybody or every application - but they definitely have a place, even if just from a smiles per mile point of view!
I'll look out for the build thread! ☺️
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We put a strap across the chassis to stop the back of the engine dropping. I think we also jammed a piece of wood through the what I think are anti roll bar brackets on the chassis too to support the back of the engine.
Steve
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That rope is going to get caught on something!
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Awesome, you've come to the right place!
We all look forward to a new build thread of your conversion.
Regards
Steve
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I had this same issue when my Dad and I wanted to remove his Borg warner transfer box and autobox as due to the location it wasn't practical to go in through the door to drop it down.
We looked at the exact unit in your link and thought: 'How is an autobox going to sit on that?!' After much thought, we decided on purchasing one as it's got to help more than nothing at all.
What we did to try and make it fit the autobox better was to bolt a flat plate to the top. I think my Dad must of drilled some holes. We happened to have some 6mm ali plate to use. Then we made two stands for the autobox to sit on and then use the supplied strap which still worked. We did however have to lift it onto and off the stand once it was between the chassis rails as it would be too high otherwise.
The main reason for the two stands was not to sit in on the thin steel sump, so an R380 or LT77 could sit straight onto the board.
The transfer box was supported on the bottom by the transmission jack and then flopped down once fully removed by some rope holding it up. It was then lifted onto a steel tray so that it could be slide out from under the vehicle.
Hope this helps.
Steve
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What's the history with the engine? Has it gradually got worse to start or have you just bought it?
Can you hear the fuel pump come on when you put the ignition on? Is it quiet or loud?
Yes, you're quite right about the crank sensor, if it doesn't work then the engine wont start.
Regards
Steve
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1 hour ago, Mossberg said:
Does anyone know the thread size of the brake caliper bolts. I have a feeling that if I manage to get these out they may benefit from having a tap through them.
Many thanks.
Mick
Mine was a fine thread....M12 x 1.25 as written here when I did mine.
Steve
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I had this issue a while ago!
The bolt head started to round off, I bought the Irwin bolt removers and the bolt was still tight enough that it didn't want to be move at all and the Irwin socket promptly machined the bolt head perfectly round!
What I did next was to take the whole hub off the vehicle and set it up on my pillar drill where I drilled out the bolt and helicoiled it!
I hope you have success with whatever method you are using!
Steve
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Anyone used these weld-together squares for fabrication?
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
https://www.lambco-machinery.com/
Steve