steve200TDi
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Posts posted by steve200TDi
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I love a build thread, it's coming on nicely.
I'll look out for the next update!
Steve
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I got one of these for Christmas!
I think I have a plan for where I'm going to fit it on my dash.
Watch this space!
Steve
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22 hours ago, simonr said:
I decided just to get on with it - and ordered a press (sort of a late Xmas prezzie for the workshop!). I have some parts I want to cut & fold - so it's not a bad time.
This is what I ordered.
This is what I'm going to build! A 3 Axis office chair (as you do).
Nice press Si. I look forward to you build progress 😁
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So after watching this:
I had an idea of making it out of metal using my above folder.......as card was not good enough!
I first made a paper template from a piece of A3 paper and drew around it onto 1.2mm ali
Then using a 90 degree guillotine we have a work I cut it out, handy for acute corners!
The I used my folder at home, there was no guarantee that this was going to work, but I had a vision and enthusiasm to make it work!
It did!
A bit of cleaning and deburring saw it securely fixed to my Christmas tree!
It's not perfect, but the concept is proven so maybe a mk2 will be made for next year!
Steve
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Awesome! Good work Mike! Everyone has a way, better keep an eye out for free stuff on Facebook and Friday ad (Although when I search on Friday Ad, nothing comes up for me?!)
I'm also designing a shed to go in a sunken corner of the garden, it'll house Land Rover parts, so was tempting to put a thread up on hear, I'm going to source all the materials myself and build it to my own design, on a budget.
Steve
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Have you taken the distributor out and used the drill method for achieving oil pressure?
Steve
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So the general gist is that you may need to replace your fuel hose and o-rings on your injectors, but it should run fine in your Rover V8?
Steve
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That's some impressive work @Simon_CSK. I imagine it's not easy trying to trim the panel to fit and get it exactly in the right position. It's also not easy taking an angle grinder to a shiny Range Rover!
I would be interested in a more indepth write up, or just even some pictures from the inside as I guess there was a second skin to sort out?
A friend has a van with a big stoved in part down one side, but it's not an easy job to repair something like that!
Steve
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2 hours ago, landroversforever said:
I'm not entirely sure to be honest Steve. I think I bought two tins. U think 5L each? First covering of the floor from memory was a whole tin mixed 50/50. Then ~2/3 of a tin for the top coat. This concrete is pretty rough though! The details may be in my 90 thread, as the workshop prep went in that thread in the end. It would be back around Oct 2013 to Jan-ish 2014 from memory.
EDIT: just to add, workshop is just under 400sqft - Google says that's about 37sq meters.
I'll have a look, but from what you've written, that's good to know. My potential new garage is approx 15 sq meters and so one tine could be enough!
Steve
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I love that, good find @Bowie69 I like the looks and you got to love a proper hand built rough around the edges prototype vehicle.
It also looks a bit like the Lamborghini LM002.
And you can do the Dakar at the weekend!
Steve
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3 hours ago, landroversforever said:
As above, the concrete is going to be very green at that stage so look carefully at what the coating manufacturer recommends. My workshop floor was old barn concrete floor so a sweep off and then used a 50/50 mix of leyland trade floor paint with white spirit. Top coat was then as it comes. That's held up really well, but was on top of really old concrete.
That's good to know, it seems to have got good reviews on Screwfix. It says coverage is about 11m squared per litre. Hows much did you use per metered square with and without thinning. I'll be doing mine when I exchange and complete!
Steve
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On 9/14/2021 at 11:28 AM, simonr said:
I didn't see anything obvious - but to be honest, I wasn't looking! They will come, I have no doubt.
Are you thinking about getting one then?
No, I'm happy with my Range Rover, I was just curious as I thought they might have been more stuff there for the new model. I guess in reality it takes a while to get a new product to market and to do the R and D on it.
Steve
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I see from the photos that there were new model Defenders there. Were there many stalls selling add ons for them, e.g. snorkels, light bars, suspension etc?
Steve
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If people have watched 4x4 24 7 on you tube from down under, they make that little wheel arch cover into a storage compartment that goes right through to the other side.
As chopping the back of your toyota off, extending the wheelbase and adding a flat bed is quite common in Aus!
Steve
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I suppose I hadn't really considered my lego playing skills a good introduction to trailer reversing, as I did do a lot of manoeuvring on my bedroom carpet!
I also have good spacial awareness and am more of a visual learner and so I think that has helped in my trailer reversing.
I too took my trailer test about 6 years ago now as I had bought a racer which needed towing and me being one for doing things within the law booked on for some training and a test as I had no previous towing experience. It taught me how to hitch and unhitch and reverse which I had no experience of.
As I don't tow regularly, when I do, it's a major undertaking and I double check that I've hitched up correctly every time and completely change my driving style checking mirrors more and braking earlier as you've got a lot of weight behind you!
Steve
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Good to know, I'll probably order some as I have some metal sheers and a vice to clean up and paint.
Steve
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From looking at your pictures and reading the mk2 instructions I have noted the following:
- The circlip groove does need to be on the nearside with the curved bracket and drive flange.
- The offside with the straight bracket and freewheeling hub accepts the half shaft up against a circlip.
- From looking at the illustration of the cut away of where the shaft sits inside the free wheeling hub and oil seal plate (in the mk2 instructions), you can see that the oil seal plate sits quite neat to the end of the shaft (right near the spline) and so if you were to swap the half shaft round it probably wouldn't sit on that machined surface.
What is the OD of the half shaft near to the spline with no circlip groove?
Steve
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A picture may help of the troublesome part, as I'm unfamiliar of the difference between mk2 and mk3 versions.
As you say, you may need the mk3 instructions, but I've found the mk2 instructions here:
https://foundry4x4.co.uk/pdf/X Eng at Foundry 4x4 X-Deflex Instructions.pdf
Regards
Steve
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On 5/8/2021 at 1:34 PM, Daan said:
Just saw this on Facebook:
While on Facebook, I found a modified Mog diff (and thought of you!) and it turns out it's this one, the same one earlier in this thread. They claim the new shortened diff weighs 19.5kg.
Have you weighed yours?
Steve
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A long overdue update!
The autobox was sent here: https://www.automaticgearboxcentre.co.uk/ and they did some checks to it. Oil pump is good, the clutch pack was showing signs of wear, so that was replaced, and the torque converter was also sent away to be checked over. So it all looks good.
The transfer box looks ok, the two output shafts turn together and there is resistance between the two, i'll check it again once it's back in.
So last week, I finished the chassis repair behind the gearbox crossmember (interesting rust was holding it in and was a pain to remove with hammers etc....it just slide in on refitting...I was surprised!), gearbox and transfer box in along with wiring, starter (gear spring back so no signs of it catching on the starter ring), handbrake etc.
I also removed the flexplate and starter ring and it was all perfect, no cracks or nicks etc.
So my Dad will be fitting the seats and propshafts this weekend. Everything else is fitted and we'll add some oil next week and see if it moves, then it'll be onto an MOT and go and use it.
Unfortunately we haven't found anything definitive that has caused the noise and so we'll have to wait and see if it comes back, is still there or we find it now we've disturbed a lot of things!
Steve
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On 8/13/2021 at 3:14 PM, Stellaghost said:
Not much time today but managed to roll cups for rubber coupling half's to squash and locate into
Couple of bits of 25 x 5mm flat bar
add one home made bar roller
and end result regards Stephen
Excellent work as always! I may have to steal this idea for a roller. I could add the top roller to by press to create the change in height and the two roller can be attached to the bottom plate. An idea added to the jobs for the future bank!
Steve
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Hi,
This is on a rover 3.9 V8 with zf4hp22.
I'm about to refit my starter gear and flex plate and require the torque setting for the bolts.
I also need the torque setting for the flex plate to torque converter bolts too.
Any help much appreciated
Regards
Steve
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Does anybody know the torque setting for those four bolts that hold the flex plate and starter ring gear on?
I'm doing this job today and also require the torque for the four bolts that secure the torque converter to the flex plate.
Many thanks
Steve
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I thought there are company's that sell a range of generic door seal profiles on a role - would that suit?
E.g.
This site has quite a few profiles!
https://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/
Whether there's anything there that's suitable is another story!
Steve
P.S. What does the lightweight profile look like?
Mog 404 axles
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
Yep, when you think this build thread couldn't get any better, it does!!
Steve