CJRH

Thanks for the info, what's the likely hood of picking up the clutch arm / slave cylinder at Newbury this weekend or should I just buy new? Chris

Thanks for that Phil. Locating studs / pegs, there are some blind holes in the bell housing face and the flywheel cover face, should there be solid pegs / studs to help locate the two together? Hope I've explained that a bit better now! Chris

Hi, I’ve got a lovely shiny re-built series 3 gear box waiting to go in (thanks Les). Question: It has no clutch fork, can I use the one from the 2a box? Slave cylinder, again can I use the one from the 2a box? Gear stick, 4 wheel drive and high low levers re-use? The 200tdi engine and the series 3 gearbox have no locating studs, as above can I re-use from the 2a gearbox? With the 200tdi engine, am I right in I need series pressure plate and clutch? Cheers, Chris

Yep, not very clever doing it on the same day as London to Brighton............. Just checked the web site, entry to public is from 10:00am Chris

I'm going, got quite a shopping list! Chris

I've had a mail back from Dunsfold: the 1959 production year started in August 1958, so yours would be correct. Yes it would be the 4th 88 produced from the 59 batch Chris

Bloody barber attacked me with a lawn mower

Here are some pictures of how bad it really is! In reality I don’t think I’ll have the money to restore it, it would be a massive and very expensive project. I’ll do some more digging on its history and then probably put it up for sale, (if it is worth anything?) if it definitely is early then I would want to see it restored and not scrapped. Perhaps we could do a forum restoration project, people take on small bits to spread the work around!!!!!!!!! Chris

Ok, update on the spray job. After a lot of wet and dry and cutting back, it has come up pretty good! What do you think? Chris

Did have a complete set of panels the wings are now on my 2a along with the roof, and I just sold the van sides..... Apart from the van sides, not a big issue. Chris

There is something odd, the chassis number relates to 1959 but it was first registered 01/11/1958, I'll double check the bulkhead plate later. Some pictures of the recovery, they don't show how bad it is, I'll take some more pictures later that will show the real state that it is in.

It was very close to go to car heaven! It's an absolute wreck! But it could be restored with time and a lot of money……… Chris

I’ve now got the V5 for that old series 2 I recovered a few months back. Am I jumping the gun here but the chassis number is 146900004, does that make it the 4th off the production line? It was first registered 01 11 1958 with 1 previous owner. Cheers Chris

Ok, after some thought and another look through previous topics about this using the search function I think I’m going to notch the front cross member rather than chopping the whole thing out and raise the power steering box up. As always thanks for all of the help! Chris

Here are some photo's of p38 power steering boxes out of interest:

As always some good advice and interesting thoughts! Les, we spoke about this when I picked the gearbox up, would it be possible to chop the front cross member out and re-weld it in further forward rather than using a new bit of box section? Chris

I had a good look through earlier using the search button, was hoping that someone could point me towards a thread with a complete build in it! I'll have another go, don't want to be seen as been lazy!!! Chris

Thanks for the reply Gord, that’s what I was hoping someone was going to say! I’ve been in two minds about this as I’ve got a lovely galvanized chassis that I’m reluctant to start chopping / welding on. I’ve nearly got all the bits to do the 200tdi conversion so while I’m at it I might as well do the power steering conversion at the same time. If anyone has any photo’s please can I have them. Cheers, Chris

I know there have been various posts about this but my question is does it improve the steering at all? I’m thinking of going down the disco steering box route. Also, can someone give me a link do a good detailed build thread please. Cheers, Chris

The mop / buffing pad came today, blue fome one for celulose paint. I managed to do one van side panel after work and it has come up very well, not a bad shine to it now! Only issue is I don't think they are meant to be used on an angle grinder, managed to destroy it Anyway, it was only cheap and lessen learnt There are a few scatches, dents in the body work, but as I said, not after concorse, just better than it was Chris

Ok, here are some pics of how it looks before mopping.

That's a great finish! Here are some photo's of how the paint work looked, I'll take some pics of how the new paint looks now and after I've mopped it. Chris

Thanks for the advice. I’m not after a concourse finish, just to make it better than it was which was hand painted very badly. I cut back the original hand paint which was cellulose with 400 and then 600. I’ve already cut back the van sides with 1200 and gone through the new paint in a few places, like where the spot welds are for the stiffening bar…… I’ll touch up those few bits with a touch up spray gun. To avoid this problem again I’ve ordered a sponge mop and I’ll try cutting / polishing the rest. Chris

Thanks for that Les, will give it a go and see how it comes up. Chris

Hi, I sprayed my series 2 on Saturday, the first decent days weather for a long time! I’m no expert at spraying and it’s not a bad job but it would be fair to say that some parts are more shiny than others! I need to cut it back and polish it now, can I just use something like te-cut or should I flat it off with 1200 wet and dry and then use a proper polishing compound? I did get 4 coats on each panel so there is good coverage but I am worried about going through the new paint where the rivets are and where there are dents etc. I sprayed it with cellulose paint. Cheers, Chris