CJRH

Cheers for that, thought I'd better check incase I bought the wrong door! Fridge, have you got a door for sale then? Cheers Chris

Are Series 2/3 rear doors the same as 90/110 ones? Cheers, Chris

Cheers for the replies, I have also replaced the stub axel and swivel. I think it might be an optical allusion now! Both of the front wings are very bashed up which doesn’t help and as it happens I am due an eye test! Also the Landy is not sitting level, it leans to the nearside. I think the parabolic springs might be on the wrong corners, I picked them up second hand from the sort out at Newbury last year but there are no markings on them for N/S and O/S. I guess I’ll have to take them all off again and sit them on top of each other to see if any sit higher and then if two of them do put them on the drivers side. Chris

A friend has a camber angle gauge so will measure it with that and keep you posted. Cheers, Chris

The wheels have also been changed to Disco ones and they do run true, when compared to the nearside it leans out far more......... Chris

Ok, when I bought the 2a I knew that there was something wrong with the near side front wheel, when viewed from the front it leans out at the top. Since then I have replaced the chassis with a new galvanized one and the problem was still there so it is not the chassis. I then replaced the front axel casing and the problem was still there. I have now replaced the whole hub assembly including half shaft and it still leans out, what else could it be? Cheers, Chris

Hi Mike, I managed to get it off, I had to take out the 4 studs that bolt the inlet to exhaust manifold which were a real pain to get out..... Chris

Hi all, I’m struggling to get the inlet manifold off my series 2a petrol engine. I need to take it off to drill and tap the blanked off brake vacuum as I’m nearly finished with my front disc brake conversion. I’ve removed the 2 nuts at the top, the 2 bolts underneath that go through the inlet manifold and the 2 bolts that have the wedge things on to hold the inlet and exhaust manifold on. I’ve also undone the 4 nuts on the studs that go through to the exhaust manifold (below where the carb sits). Is that all of the bolts as the inlet manifold will not move? I do not want to go near the exhaust manifold nuts / bolts as I know they will shear off……… Cheers Chris

I hope it's not the old lady that runs the local post office!!!!!!!!!!!! Chris

My landy is tax free being 1968 but the Subaru started off at £300 and the increase in tax is massive. The whole thing just sucks and has nothing to do with the environment, it's just another way to squeeze more tax out of us. Chris

Just put my Subaru in, not good.... What does the 1st year bit mean for from April 2010? 12 months is £430 but 1st year is £750?? Subaru Impreza (07 on) 2.5 WRX 5dRates effective from 13 March 2008 Date of Registration 6 Months 12 Months Band CO2 (g/km) 1 Nov 2007 – £220.00 £400.00 G 246 Rates effective from April 2009 Date of Registration 6 Months 12 Months Band CO2 (g/km) 1 Nov 2007 – £228.25 £415.00 L 246 Rates effective from April 2010 Date of Registration 6 Months 12 Months First Year Band CO2 (g/km) 1 Nov 2007 – £236.50 £430.00 £750.00 L 246

Hi, again, thanks for the photo's, a nice little project! Chris

Another question on series rock sliders, on Defender ones you can get the lifting holes for the farm jacks with the solid round by attachment. Also on Defender the rear tub / petrol tank support is a lot stronger. Would a series (SWB) rear tub, petrol tank support be strong enough to jack up the landy? Of course the rock slider would be bolted to the front out rigger like the Defender ones do. Hope this makes sense! Chris

Sorry to jump on this post but I've had a good look through the technical archive for series rock sliders and have not been able to find anything. Todd, if you could post some pictures , dimensions that would be great, SWB please! Cheers, Chris

I'm afraid I'm just going to strip off any useable parts and there are not a lot of them. Front axle I'll keep, although it was buried in the mud for about 15 years, there was no rear axle on it, engine and gearbox are scrap, the chassis is all rust and holes, the good points are a pretty good pair of wings for my 2a, seat box is good the windscreen and roof are also good. That's about it I'm afraid, I don't like to just pick parts off but it really is beyond restoration and at least some of the parts will have a new life. By the way, it's a 1958. Chris

Just uploaded photo's of a series 2 that I recovered the other week with a friend. It took 5 hours of hard work but we got there! Chris http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?autocom=...si&img=6239

Jon, do you have the issue that Gazzar was talking about? "the front axle doesn't have CV joints in the swivels so if running permanent 4X4 then the tyre wear will increase, there will be a "lump" in the steering wheel every time you turn" Cheers Chris

Thanks for the reply’s everyone. What would the 4.75 diffs come from? Cheers Chris

Cheers for that Gazzar, there is so much info on this in different topics that it gets confusing! I guess what I need to know is what works best! 200 tdi engine will be from a Disco as they are the cheapest to get hold of, gearbox is where I'm not sure. I really want a five speed box and also my 2a box is knackered. Stage 1 V8 axels are like rocking horse plop......... So would I need the gear box and transfer box from a Defender and if so which ones? Chris

I want to go down the 200 tdi engine route in my 2a but I also want to change the gearbox. I know that I need a LT77 and I am happy for it to be permanent 4 wheel drive. Is there any difference between the LT77 from a Defender and a Disco? Can I just buy a 200 tdi and gearbox from a Disco? Will the gearbox mounts line up etc? Cheers Chris

Thanks for all of your thoughts on this. I'll go down this route and see how I get on. Chris

Are you talking about getting the bias correct front to back? Chris

Just got hold of a 109 rear axle with 11 inch drum brakes, was thinking of using them in conjunction with my front disc brake conversion, will this be ok? All this will be with an early 110 master cylinder and servo. Chris

Thanks for that. Chris

Hi, I need to drill and tap the manifold on my 2 ¼ petrol for the 110 brake servo (as part of the disc brake conversion). Where should I drill the hole and what size tap should I use? Also, the brake servo has the 110 master cylinder on it, can I use this? Will the brake pipe unions be imperial or metric and will it give me the correct split in brake balance from front to back? Cheers Chris