kevinr

checked the cabling, and I can't find anything untoward, but then there is all this hardened sheath over it which I can't remove without destroying it. I assume, if it was an earth fault, then the car would just simply fail to start, and if it was just a faulty alternator, then the car would not hesitate (which seems to be cured again today ?? ) and the battery would just drain.

Well, following from my previous problem with the car juddering as I accelerated (my initial thought was the AFM was at fault as when I disconnected it, and reconnected, the car worked fine) This problem has come back, however, an ex AA mecahnic friend of mine had a look and told me that the HT lead on plug 1 has worn on the engne and has a hole in it..so I assume this is the cause of that problem..the spark just earths itself before reaching the plug..will electrical tape provide a temporary fix for this until I get paid on Monday and can get replacements? Also, for the last 2 days, my altenator has been smoking (though only on short journies, not long ones) there is a burning smell and the instrument panel has gotten dimmer. Today the rev counter stopped working, and when I got home, switched off the ignition, and tried to restart, the car struggled, the headlights dimmed right down...I presume this is a replacement job, or could it just be a xase of replacing the bushes? If I have to replace the altenator, does it have to be a like for like model, or can I put in any one (that is for the car) as long as the amp rating is the same?..I ask because the model in my car happens to be the most expensive one paddocks do, and I'm not going to be able to afford this just yet. Any help would be great. Cheers Kev

I had a look at that...very intruiging but trying to source that replacement amp is proving hard, the motorfactors round here can't seem to cross frerence that part no to anything. As to the misfire, with the exhaust system popping along merrily to the misfire, I decided to play with the air-flow meter, I removed the cable...accelerated hard..and no jumping ..so I replaced the cable...accelerated hard..and still no jumping..it's as if the problem didn't exist. So could this issue be related to the airflow meter..maybe getting dirty connections from my recent bout of greenlaning, or could this just be fluke?..it just seems odd that the problem would go away like that..just as suddeny as it appeared

thanks fridge..The amp is only 3 months old, after it popped on me last time..I seriously hope it's not the culprit now..not at £30 a go!..lol

When I'm accelerating through 1st and second gear, the car starts to misfire. I've checked all I can on it, but everything seems in check..no vaccum leaks, sparks and HT leads are new, dizzy cap and rotor arm are clean as a whistle..I cant see any oil leaks (well, not of the usual disco variety). Any ideas what could be the next step? Is it possible to swap the coil out with a replacement to test it without going through the hassel of completely removing the old one and putting the new one in fully?

I got a replacement today, it's second hand and in good condition (the guy I got it from is reputable) it will do as a temporary replacement until I can afford the heavy duty ones.

yeah, I figured as much..Paddocks do a nice heavy duty one, but the price is a little too much at the moment..too many damned anniversaries..lol oh well, looks like a replacement one on monday

Following a mishap today..thanks to some t**t, I've bent the track rod (the rear one attached to the steering damper..I presume it's a track rod). This makes steering a bag of laughs, but can it be straightened succesfully, if so how..or am I looking at sourcing and buying a replacement? I've jacked a ball join seperator bar between the axel and the bent bar, forcing into shape..or at least a better one. Is this likely to end in failure, or will several hours like this, force the it back?

got it sorted, though it meant tracking down a used one as you can't buy new ones. I tried to free the other one up, but it would only move so far over, and not enough to engage the diff lock. No amount of wd40/petrol or anything else was going to budge it further.

thanks dougie, Guess I have my day planned for Monday then, can't get any rivets till then ..oh well, hopefully wd40 will work for me, i'm greenlaning tomorrow...think I'd better keep a recovery strap hooked on

I've searched the forums, but can't find what I need so here goes the asking. My diff lock lever will select high/low quite easily..for the most part, what it wont do is move over to the left to lock the diff, now I'm aware that it can seize from under use, but since i'm doing more and more greenlaning/off roading, I really need to get this working. I've looked underneath and found the bit I need to douse in WD40, and have done so, but on the of chance, I'm going to need the use of a hammer/lever, could someone tell me where I need to be manipulating, with pics if possible? It's a 97 3.9 V8 ES Cheers

When I get in the car first thing, I usually have problems selecting 1st or reverse, I usually have to put the car in another gear (1st if trying to select reverse, and vice versa) before selecting the one I want. i have also noticed that when taking the car out of fith gear, there is a metalic clunk from the gear box. It's a 1997 3.9 V8 ES with around 113k on the clock. Any ideas? Thanks. Kev

thanks for the replies I've got no intention of replacing the filter, since my next goal for the car is megasquirt, and then a snorkel and extending the breather pipes, I just thought I'd ask the more knowledgable people about this little tidbit of info I got

I was told yesterday that replacing the standard filter on my 3.9 V8 would improve performance and fuel economy as the engine would be able to breath more easily. Now I thought the reverse would be true, and the V8 would suck fuel like a whale drinks water, to compensate for the extra air in the system. So..is he just talking the preverbial brown stuff, or is there some truth to this?

Yes please mate, would be much obliged

I think you can get approx 300 miles to the tank (93 litres) on one of those, at least, that's around what I get on my 1997 3.9 V8i I don't know how to answer your question on the LPG conversion, but I have head good things about a conversion called megasquirt, first and foremost it seems to be a water proofing system for the electrics, but it has the added bonus of giving the V8 some good fuel economy.

just read on another forum (can post link if needed) that the ball join can only be removed on a press (something about 48 tonnes of pressure was needed!!!) and it cost about £80 to remove the old and put in the new ones.

so, I could connect a wire from the live circuit on the main beam stick, to the live (on wire) on the spotlight switch, with this diode soldered into the circuit between the two points?

The bulbs are 100watts, and they are connected via a switch and a relay, which is fused. But I would like to look at having them come on with the main beams aswell if at all possible.

After following a post in here, I managed to get my front bullbar mounted spots working on their own switch. Can I now pass this through to the main beam stick and have them come on with high beams, but still have them work independently on their on switch, if not, how can I wire them to come on with the main beams? and is there any legal issues with this?

LOL..beat me to it...I was about to come on and say "it's ok..I've had an even better look with the aid of a torch, and found 2 rubber hose ends" So, yeah, I think it could be..as I say, the water is cold, so deffinatly not an engine cooling issue The leak has stopped now, and I guess that's why the air con was very humid earlier.

And yet another problem with my V8. I have noticed a leak from a small 'nodule' just above where my drive shaft joint is, between my 2 cat convertors..located on the gearbox. It is just cold water that's leaking, but don't know if it is a problem, or just water build up from the recent rain we have had Any ideas?

Hi, For the stereo, there are places that can take your unit away and query it, who they are, and what it would cost I can't recall I'm afraid. As for tyhe car code, I do believe that a dealer/autoelectrician/garage can query your ECU. I had ignition problems with my disco just recently, and the Landrover autoelectrician I had come look at it, checked the security settings in the ECU to make sure the code was correctly set, I presume (but could be way off) this is the same code for the key.

woohoo..cross checkingthe figures in the bank, and this looks like it could be a reality in the near future

it goes up and down, sometimes it even dies completely, then comes back several minutes later. On other occasions, the "fill me now, jackass!!" light comes on when the needle is halfway.