kevinr

As the title says, when I press the clutch pedal in, the revs jump up to around 1500 revs and sit there for several seconds before subsiding. They never did this before tonight so was wondering if there's something amiss, or if it's just one of those things. Also, still on the subject of the clutch, when the engine is cold, I here a light scraping/grinding noise coming from the clutch when I put pressure on the pedal, it doesn't have to engage/disengage the clutch, just a small amount of weight on the clutch pedal starts this noise off...any idea anyone?

After reading another plug, and being directed to a nice looking wading kit, can anyone tell me where the holes are that I need to plug up? I've tried looking on the car, but can't see anywhere obvious...what am I missing (apart from the hole)?

yes, remove the wading plugs when not wading I saw wading kits for around £24 on ebay, as I remember, they had plugs aswell as extended breather pipes and the unions to fit it all. Also, try southdown4x4 for a snorkel, they do one a little cheaper then safari which sits on the top of the wing next to the A Pillar, and made of stainless. once it's in the engine bay, it's just a flexitube and fittings to your airbox.

I used Adrian Flux as I do 4x4 response..which is a pig to get cover for!! Although Greenlaning is not offroading, I found alot of the companies I called dont make that ditinction between a greenlane and off road..as far as they are concerned, if it aint tarmaced, it aint a road! trying to explain became tedious at best, and down right infuriating at worst..but sureterm should do it, and adrian flux deffinatly will..I can't comment on proce as like I say, I had to get cover for 4x4 response, and that set me back over a grand!!!

Sorry to hijack the thread, but just out of curiosity, do you need a testbook or something like that to get at the ECU, or does a laptop with the right software/cable work aswell..if so, where do I get the software?

will do,thanks, but if you've read my PM yet, you'll see it's not needed for mine now

well..that was a straight forward, yet a complete pig of a job!!!! 1 bolt out...2 pieces of a speed sensor followe (explains the malfunction ) Line up the new one and one bolt in..probably a 30 second job IF LR put it in a more accesible area, or we all had the arms of a 1 year old. I was checking the old one out, aside from the face plate coming off, the nylon collar which holds up the back of the magnet had come away from the spindle and had been shredded up, also, I had a small amount of oil drip out..is this normal, or at least ok..given that landrovers tend to spread the love when it comes to oil.

Hey fridge, I tried locating that amp as I was going to upgrade mine (before megasquirt became a reality for me) and no-one round my area (Hull) could find the amp for me..didn't know it existed, and when I searched google, all I got was a few descriptions.

Thanks for the replies guys The reason I want the decat pipe is not performance related..though an increase would be a good bonus, the reason is I think mine is starting to blow..(it could just be a draft off the cooling fan, I've yet to fully check this out) and the cost of a decat is about 10 times cheaper then a catalysed downpipe..I think the decat is around £45 on paddocks..it's under the 3.9 EFI link, but described for a 3.5, I assume the pipe is the same and will fit either engine. To get the ECU modified, is this a dealer job, or could my local LR specialist auto electrician do it?

What would be the penalty/benefit of replacing my down pipe with a de-cat one? Aside from being significantly cheaper, and a little more engine noise, does my tax increase or anything like that?

I don't know if yours will be same as mine, but Mine is controlled by vaccum hoses, a number of which had frayed at the ends where they all interconnect. All I did was cut off the frayed ends and remade the connections, and all was working fine after that. Like I say, yours may be different on account yours is diesel and mine is a V8, but thought it worth a mention.

Thanks for the info, I'll give this a shot as soon as I have the spare time, probably monday Unfortunatly though, it's a job for my back though as I have neither a pit or a hoist handy, best I can manage is a set of axel stands...but I'll update as soon as I have done the work.

One thing I cna say about my lovely red disco is that she never really has a mechanical problem..it all damned electrics related Well, the first problem is the speedo has stoped working...started bucking around the dial the other day, then just died!..I've checked the crankshaft sensor and there seemes to be oil around it..not a surprise as there is a leak or two under the car..a isco trait I understand. I did the usual, remove plug, contact cleaner, re-connect..last time it worked, his time, nothing. I'm going to remove the sensor and give it a clean..is this liable to work? any pitfalls I should look out for..such as any 'O' rings to replace?...I'd like to try this first as a new one is a dealer only part for £50?!?!?! The next problem is she stalls now, when I approach a stop (lights, junction etc) and slow down, when the revs hit around idle speed, they just drop and stall the engine, the problem is intermittent and is very similar to the amplifier giving up on me...Now, since I have replaced that with a new one not 6 months ago, I'd like to think that this has not popped on me again. Any suggestions on what else could cause this..any work arounds I could try to test any issues out before I start spending more beer tokens on it?

No idea!, it's completely behaving itself now, and is a much better drive then it has ever been

Yeah..to me a plug is a plug, aslong as it does the job the vehicle needs, then I'm not to fussy, I only see the argument if your talking performance plugs..which I don't need. Had a little problem this morning..the car started judering under load..I nearly cried..just seems one thing after the other with this car atm...however..after a 2 minute fiddle with the HT leads, I found one wasn't fully seated..now it is, all is well..infact, better then well..all the little niggles have gone from the acceleration aspect, the car feels like it isn't even turned on when stationary, and the revs have sorted themselves out..the needle does bounce very slightly at tickover, but I guess I'm just being too criticle. Now..as long as the car behaves itself, I can start concentrating on modifying the damned thing

thanks for the replies all I've heard conflicting stories over the spark plug thing, some advocate NGK other champion..I went with champion as that was all Paddocks had in at the time, but i'm not sure these would affect the revs... I'll check for leaks when I get in from work tomorrow...I did move a few pipes out the way to get at the plugs, so i's possible I have losened a join I guess And the dizzy cap..would that make a difference if it was not exact? the retaining clips have a bit of play in them, and the catches on the side of the cap are fairly wide, I'd assume the ECU would account for this, aslong as the fireing order was correct..which I assume it is..I was meticulous about numbering everything up when I put ht enew leads on..and I never really put any force onto the dizzy itself when I put the cap or rotor arm on..infact, everything was stable..but I'll give it a good once over in the light tomorow

I've just replaced all the sparkplugs, HT Leads and King lead, rotor arm and dizzy cap on my '97 P plate disco. I was a very good boy and only used genuine parts and Champion Sparkplugs, even set the gaps correctly and torqued them up to the correct setting and made sure all my HT leads were layed across the engine neatly avoiding crossing wherever possible. After I started her up to check all was well, my revs now sit at 1000rpm instead of 750. Is this a cause for concern (apart from the extra fuel consumption) or is there something I can adjust to bring it down again?

LMAO..that sounds like something a red indian would say I have a new alternator on the way today..I spoke with a trusted autoelectrician the other day who recommened someone else to me..he was actually able to give me good advice over the phone. Aparently..the garage I originally spoke to said that the alternator would have no bearing on engine performance..the guy on the phone pretty much said what jwriyadh said in relation to engine performance. I've decided to go the whole hog with the repair today, new alternator, new dizzy cap (genuine) new rotor arm (genuine) new HT leads, new plugs, a full service with genuine parts and also the swivel join gaskets as they are leaking..i'll probably do an article for that aswell as I couldn't find one.

do your wheel nuts have covers on them? these are lose and make noise as your wheels turn

Hi all, What can I use to seal the gap between the downpipe and middlebox join? It's a welded olive with a clamp, however, this does not do the job 100% Is there a gasket paste or something similar that can withstand the temperatures, or some kind of sealing grease that I can use?

The drive belt is fine on the car, checked and double checked, the whining, I have a feeling is me just hearing things other then what they are..chances are, it's the normal engine noise..or perhaps the gearbox/transfer box during normal operation..I think during my fault finding, I've read too much somewhere that describes the whining being a fault, and now that's all I hear...when I pulled away from my dads house, he said the car sounded fine, So I'm willing to accept that noise as figment of the imagination. What is a fact is that the alternator gets very hot and until recently would smoke...this now appears to have stopped (smoking)...the battery seems to be charging a little, ie, when I take a reading it measures 12.09 volts engine off, when I start it up it drops to 11.99, when I rev the engine, it jumps up to 12.11 volts..so it seems there is marginal activity there. However, My headlights and dashboard lights are dim and the rev counter does not work..even the temp gauge seems faulty, it only climbs a 1/4 way up the scale, where it used to rest at half way once the engine was running at temp...could this be colder weather related?..engine cooling more effeciently? From what I understand, the rev counter failing is a result of the regulator failing as that's where the rev counter connects to..so a simple replacement job..if anywhere locally can get me the damned part!! On looking around the engine area, some of the earth straps look quite muddy, and to be fair, the smell of burning appeared one not so sunny day greenlaning..I just put it down to carp on the engine from all the clay/mud we were trapesing through..my concern now is that I wont get the earth straps off without rounding bolts or snapping studs..I assume if that happens, I can just drill a hole in the chassis and use a self tapper/bolt and nut to reattach an earth strap. My other issue is with hesitation/jerking when I accelerate, I'm not sure if this is related (given it's an electrical fault and V8's seem very much touchy when it comes to electrics) as it all happened at the same time.....smoking/overheating alternator and poor acceleration...all was working fine one minute, and when I started the car up after a 30 minute break the car started to accelerate badly....so..i'm left wih trying to figure this thing out. I've asked the only Landrover autoelectrician in the area for help, but he's about to go on holiday and is not sure he can get to me before he does..so that's about a 2 week wait, and I can't leave the problem that long, and I don't want to risk the travel while the car is basically fubar.

thanks for the replies. one other question, where would I find my voltage regulator? is it in the alternator, or mounted externally somewhere?

Can anyone tell me how to test my alternator, ie where to put the voltmeter terminals, and what I'm lookiing for? I read references to live wires out the back, but mine doesn't seem to have one, just an earth wire and a couple more small ones...what am I missing. he alternator part number is AMR4247 if that's useful. Thanks

on your steering rack you will have your track rod to the rear, which is what your steering damper is fitted to, this is the part the garage adjusted when correcting your tracking. To correct your steering wheel position, you can do 2 things..1st, remove the steering wheel itself and realign it that way...I personally wouldn't do this but it's an option. The second way is to adjust the drag link as suggested in the first reply, again, on the steering rack, you will see another rod located at the front of the steering, this will have 2 adjustable ball joins on it, (one end attached to the drop arm, one end attached to a wheel). You need to adjust this bar to move the steering wheel left or right (i'm not sure in which direction you need to go), just loosen the ball joins (probably the one on the drop arm) and turn it in or out depending which way you need to adjust the wheel. But in all honesty, if you can live with it, I would..it will not affect your ability to control the car at all.

Just had the alternator checked, and it's deffinatley U/S, I can get it repaired, but they wont have the part til tuesday. This solves the problem of the alternator overheating...just need to solve the hesitation problem..if it returns again.