kevinr

thanks for the suggestions guys, With regards to the leads etc, they were all replaced, ie leads, plugs, dizzy cap and rotor arm. The plugs are champions, the leads were a generic set from Paddocks, but the rotor arm, dizzy cap, oil and air filters were genuine parts...I'll have a check in the morning, and go over the plugs, make sure they are tightened correctly, when I put them in, I gapped them and set them to the torque settings as prescribed in the haines manual, but worth a check...as for timing, the car is EFI can I adjust this? I was under the impression that whatever I did would be overridden by the ECU. The output seal is as you say an easy fix, I have read the relevant thread on this forum for that, the job will be done soon. As for the clutch, it could be vibration, it usually occurs when I press the pedal past half it's travel length, below that it is fine, I just never noticed it on the original clucth, but to be fair, that was knackered so is not the best thing to judge by. I have a feeling they may have used brit parts..I know other people who have had work carried out there, and it seems to be the norm...is this a problem? When i first felt the vibration (it came several weeks after the job) I rang them back, they suggested it could be down to the part bedding in still, but by now I think that period should have passed.

Well, after reading the first few on the post lists, it seems to be the season for V8's to go t*t's up! I have a few issues here that I could do with advice on, I have a fairly good idea what the issue is, however, it would be nice to have some back up ideas just in case. First issue, I recently had the clutch changed (november) however, i can feel the clucth grinding through the pedal whenever I change up a gear..is this normal or should I be taking it back to the garage who did the job, to have them correct it? Second issue, the car hesitates, especially when cold, I pull out of a junction, and there a few moments where I have no pull from the engine, then suddenly, it kickis in, and pulls away. Third issue, the engine races when I come to a standstill and pres the clutch pedal, the revs go to 1k and sit there for a few moments before coming down Fourth Issue, Big oil leak on the back of the handbrake drum. and Lastly, the baffles on my mid section have been blown following a misfire I had when I replaced my HT leads..for around 2 weeks after, I had to keep checking the leads, as they kept slipping off the dizzy cap..now they have seated and hold firm. Where the clucth issue is concerend, I am going to be doing an oil change on the main and transfere gearbox, the transfere gearbox needs a new oilseal, and while I'm at it, I'll be replacing the driveflange...could this be why I feel a grind in my cluth pedal? Probably clucthing at astraws I know, but I thought Id ask anyway, I assume new oil alround would make gear changes a little smoother anyway. I will also be replacing the mid box, I looked at putting in a stainless through pipe, but for the sake of £20, I can get a full mid box fitted, and have less risk of MOT failure due to excessive noise level, also, I was told, the back pressure on the rear box could destroy the baffles in there anyway as it's not designed to take that much pressure...any truth to that? I'm hoping too, that the knackered mid box is the cause of the hesitation in the engine, and the racing engine, from what I understand, (again, told to me by a third party) the knackered baffles will prevent the lamda sensors from doing there job right or at all, so causing overfueling when I come to a stop, and under fueling when i start pulling away..is there any element of truth to this..or am I again clutching at straws. Any of you gurus able to shed some light/point me in the right direction? TIA Kev

oh no..there is more just these 2 are more then normal! Thanks for the replies guys..had a feeling the gearbox would be an issue...one thing owning a disco has proven is if something is broken, it's always the part you don't want to break. I'll have a good look at it later today, and yes, if I recall, the oil is red, and not as thick as engine oil

Hi all, I have an oil leak on the rubber hoses located underneath passenger side toward the front of the engine (hopefully that is clear enough) Can anyone tell me what pipes these are, and if they are easy to replace. I seem to have got a lot of oil leaks on the car since I had my cluth replaced at a garage, in particular, I have a fair old amount of oil leaking onto the rear of the handbrake drum, any ideas where this could be coming from? TIA

LOL..or the stroke of midnight on December 31st each year if you listen to the right people

hmmm..I had a similar thought, but came here hoping there could be other reasons that I could check first. I already got a quote for a repair by a local landrover mechanic...after much chocking and spluttering on my coffee, I said my thank yous and hung up, I can get a full gasket kit for a tenth of the price quoted and do the job nyself..it's just getting the time

coolant levels appear ok...i'm not to sharp with checking fluid levels..poor drills I know. I think it's smoke, didn't really consider steam, I do have water dribbling out the exhaust pipe which is a common occurance, so I would assume if it's steam coming out, would there still be condensed water present?

I've read round a few posts, but nothing seems to match what I am getting, so here goes. When driving home last night, (the engine died on me 3 times when I forst started it, which has never happened before, and didn't this morning...could be important) I pulled out of a junction onto a 60mph road, and had to accelerate hard, just before I went to change to 2nd, the engine lost compression for a moment, then on subsequent changes through to 4th, it would feel under powered. Once I was in 4th and 5th, it all seemed fine, the rest of the drive home was normal. This morning, all seemed normal, the drive was fine. Now, the issue, Before I went anywhere today, I decided to check the engine over, given the events of the previous night..and I also had to check the oil, due to an oil leak got worse..I think it's gearbox related, what I can tell is it's peeing out alover my handbrake drum The oil is clean (recently changed, and the engine is as clean as an offroader can be) all the HT leads are fitted correctly, and I can see/hear no air leaks from any hoses, however, I get a plume of white smoke from the exhaust, usually after the engine is revved, and it gets worse as the engine warms up. Any ideas on the smoke issue? The baffles in my middle box are damaged from what I can here, this follows a misfire incident I had after replacing the ignition system, and a lead came loose during use...was a bloody brand new box too anyone know if I can replace that with a through pipe?

if you look underneath the landy around the bellhousing area, you will see 2 rubber drain plugs poking out (one each side) these can be removed and cleaned.

Looks like it's sorted. I removed the battery from the fob for a few seconds, the put it back in..resync'd and all is well

Hi all, was buggering about installing a tranceiver radio to my disco today, and I blew the 2 15amp fuses so to test that the wiring itself was fine, I pulled 2 out of the fusebox....this is where my problem starts (radio works ok btw ) Once I replaced the fuses to the fuse box, the car would not start. the electrics came on, all the necessary pumps came to life, but the starter motor would not turn...so I went about checked all the fuses..all ok there, so I got the Haines out, and the handbook (managed to locate and purchase one) and tried the emeerency code procedure..this worked a treat...but after further testing, I found that all I actually needed to do was manually unlock the door, and the immobiliser would turn off fine! I've tried the resync on the keyfob, but this does not work at all, and I had 2 functioning fobs, so I do't believe the batteries could have gone in both at the same time..and I say that, cause I had used the spare to unlock the car when I went to play with the radio, and had used the main one earlier today, so I know they both were working fine. Anyone got any ideas on anything else I can check?

sounds like an issue with either the connection on the alternator, or the alternator itself, as this is where the rev countaer takes it feed from. Check the connections at the back of it, and make sure they are in good order.

I couldn't recommend anyone near you as I live in Yorkshire, but for coat, your looking around £450+. Mine's a V8 and it cost me £460 with VAT for a clutch replacement.

westonben, I had a not to disimilar problem with my efi the other week, in my case it was the speed transducer tha was at fault, the speedo completely failed on me, and while it was not working, my idle speed was eratic, and if I slowed down, the revs would dip so much, the car would stall...Once I replaced the speed transducer, it runs sweet as a nut now..the new clutch helps aswell , but that's another story. I will say this though, the speed transducer is an absolute pig to swap out on your back, i really needed my 2 year old to be handy with a hex key to get that job done, all in all, it's probably a 20 second job, but when you have to reach around the brake drum and the handbrake cable..it takes a lot longer This may not be helpful, but it was a cure for my problems...oh, and here I had to get it from the main dealer, not even the landrover showroom/parts dept had them in..and it was expensive..for what it is.

Thanks for the info I did try Landrover, but aside from being very sketchy about giving out part numbers..he did kindly try to sell me an upgraded module at about £90 plus and additional £30 for a harness to fit it!! The dizzy is compatible, just need to sorce that ignition module now...which is proving hard.

I've been reading this in the hope that it could solve my slight misfire problem, however, I'm not entirely sure if the dizzy I have is the correct one. Any of you guys know if the one fitted to a 97 Disco V8 ES is the correct type? From what I can gather it is, but before I spend the money I'd just like to double check. Thanks

Thanks, I'll give it a clean tomorrow...I've done that in the past aswell, but no harm in another clean Anyone know how long it takes to change a clutch? I've been told by the garage they need the car for 2 days I know it's a big job, but when I've changed clutches before, it was nothing like that long, just a few hours

The oilpan (I assume the sump??) if I recall correctly can be unbolted from underneath. You will probably have to remove the exhaust downpip to slide it out though

thanks ..yes I do have breathers fitted there, they come out at the back of the engine bay, but I'm looking to extend therse into the snorkel I'm looking to fit. My car is due in the garage in 2 weeks to have the clutch replaced, I'll see if he can check the breathers for me while he has it off the floor.

well, just had a run out in it..and it's behaving now..except the grinding noise. I've decided that as it's clutch related, and it's got over 120k on the clock, and in all likelyhood the original clucth, I'm just going to have the clutch replaced....unfortunatly it may put pay to the megasquirt conversion I had planned and had the money saved for, but I reckon changing gears is a little more important then driving through water.

Thanks teabag, mine is a manual....I just don't like auto's so fro what I can gather, I'm looking for holes in the bellhousing and on the axels?

yeah, my old one came off in 2 bits but it threw the whole performance out, so I was glad to get it sorted, but what an expensive bit of kit! £56 for a lump of platic and a spinning magnet ..dealer part only!!

This morning on the school run it was behaving itself, but last night, it was doing it on every gear change, whenever I slowed down, I'm not 100% if it did it when in neutral..can't recall, but if I lifted the clucth peddle to biting point, it would drop again. this only became apparent toward the end of my journey home, so the engine would have been at operating temp.

Thank you . I have to go back under to take another look at my speed sensor..don't think i seated it correctly so I'll have another squint for the plugs. Though I don't think I need those holes to see if I have any leaks..the whole damned area is just plastered with oul..not sure where it's coming from, but all the levels are good and it's not leaking into anything major, like the handbrake

I daresay that if my vehicle had come with it, I'd have read it..but as it is it's not available to read..but thanks for the info