mrtod

Thanks very much - all feedback is much appreciated:)

Has anyone bought one of the plastic ones? - Are they any good?

Hi - I used a margarine tub - http://projectd90.blogspot.com/2011/03/rear-cross-member-1001-uses-for.html - hope this helps:)

Wow - totally love it! I would love to do something like that - if only I didn't live in a terrace with no parking doh! (and had more talent ) If its not too impolite - how much did it go for? Tod

Thanks for the info on the Coopers - would obviously prefer to have them with the S marking for sound as the pattern is more likely to remain in production and be replaceable like-for-like if I damage one.

Thanks - makes swapping to alloys all the easier:)

Thanks Litch - which type of wheels require the longer studs - is it wolf rims etc?

Hi Guys It's probably been covered a gazillion times before but inept searching couldn't find the answer. I'm looking to fit a new set of rims on my 1995 300Tdi 90. Does anyone know if Zu alloys require long wheel studs or will they fit on with the standard ones? Also (whilst I am at it) has anyone used Cooper Discoverer S/T tires and do they conform to the new S mark sound regs? Thanks in advance Tod

Those are two very tidy soft tops - are there any more pics please?

Hi Andrew and Welcome can totally see your point - You'd be hard pressed to find a sports car that could better an Elise. When I got my Defender it was either that or a sports car (hadn't decided what type) Reckoned if I got anything fast, I would lose my licence in about a week - I live in Lancashire and it is full speed cameras. The other advantage is my landy doesn't mind the millions of pot holes:) Hope you enjoy it. Tod

Hi, have you seen the product made by LandieBox - LandieBox Tod

Totally agree that Yalan's way of finishing the job is the best, but, if done well (like the P&P bulkhead in your pic) the easier way would give nearly as good a result, especially with a bit of edging trim. Saw these on woolies-trim.co.uk

Just reread this - if they have been sat around since 04 I would be reluctant to buy them for any money - just my thoughts - might be totally wrong

They are about £115 per corner new inc VAT. They were standard OEM fitment to new defenders (although I think that changed recently) so there are plenty around. For £200 quid I've seen some part worn on alloys so I wouldn't part with more than about £150 either.

Thanks for the guide. That is quality work especially the welding and riveted sections - and really useful for me see how some one else has done the job - Mine wont be so neat. I am planning to leave flange of about 15mm with the old rivets in place. I have been looking at Woolies trim for a suitable U shaped edging strip to cover them.

Thanks very much Western:)

Hi Thanks for the diagram I think it will prove very useful for me, if its not too much trouble, could you please provide part numbers for 9,10,12,13,14 and 15. I know these are only nuts and bolts, but as this is structural I would like to get the right bits. Thanks Tod:)

Hi - looks like you have done a good job there. I too have just bought one of these bars, though I'm not planning on fitting it for a few weeks. Will post some pics here and on my new blog when I do (http://projectd90.blogspot.com/). As you said I believe this is a genuine LR product. Cheers Tod

Opening the panel under the bonnet and applying grease directly to the pedal pivot also cured my 300tdi. WD40 up into the pedal from the footwell would only ease the problem for a day or two.

As I said - it can be done... Before and after...

My advice is to look around for a good van or station wagon. You will find one for the cost of the conversion. As to why....Well whilst you should recoup most of the cost of the hardtop from selling the truckcab and tailgate, there is the cost of all the little bits - hinges, special bolts, L shaped brackets, check straps, door electrics and locks etc etc. (not to mention finding the part numbers for all these bits....) That's before you have bought a back door and had that that and your shiny new rear side panels painted (unless you've always wanted red panels on a green truck!) - even if you paint it yourself, that too costs folding stuff. AND THEN you call the insurance company and they want a flippin engineers report on your modified vehicle. At this point you may realise, Dear Reader, that this is my own personal tale of woe Yes all of these things can be overcome...and if, for instance, you already have the truck or the one you are buying is the bargain of a life time then go ahead.....but generally speaking it wont be worth the effort..

Hi DD I too have been grappling with my rusty nuts That said I'm happy with the step now its on. Tod PS also many thanks to western for taking the time to check the microcat.

Hi everyone, thanks for the replies. Yes the bars pictured by Dinkydave are the ones I have - it apears they are the ones for a 110 as the 90 parts have a bend at one end only. I have fitted the step as for the time being - it is only for bling (until I can afford that expedition trailer tent I have always wanted - and somewhere to put it). As for http://www.breedgroup.com/prod-automotive.htm I will give them a look - thanks for the link. Cheers Tod

According to the Snowdonia National Park website (to take a random popular bit of the countryside) "Millions and millions of feet walk along the paths of Snowdonia every year. Every year millions and millions of feet wear down (erode) the paths." I suspect this damage costs milllions of pounds to fix/repair, yet walkers seem to think it is their God given right to cause this damage and have someone (I am not sure who, but possibly charities/taxpayers/europe) pay for it. Maybe if we got a little of this cash our green lanes would not be in such a terrible state. Don't get me wrong - I am not defending any idiot who damages the environment either willfully or through ignorance but to suggest every landie driver is a menace to the countryside is wrong. How would they like it if we suggested rambling should be banned because every walker is a firestarting, litterbug with a sheep worrying dog.

Hi all - I am relatively new to the forum so I hope this post goes to the right place and looks like it should etc - please forgive me if it does not I have just got hold of a NAS style rear step (I believe the part number to be STC50301 - for a 110) Unfortunately I should have got STC50269AA which is the equivalent 90 part. I think the two steps are identical apart from the fixing bars which run from the underneath of the step to the chassis rails. So my question is - does anyone know the part numbers and /or where I can get the appropriate bits? Thanks in advance Tod