Philip Tonkin
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Posts posted by Philip Tonkin
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Isn't the TD5 rear crossmember different to allow for the tank?
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I think I have the aircard watcher software for that card. Not supported does not mean not available. My company uses over 1000 toughbooks but all are fitted with SW 750 GPRS cards rather than using the internal cards.
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Thanks, I will add it to the list of things to fix when the roof is off. I need a heated windscreen and new seal anyway so I will get it stripped back and repainted.
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Just noticed some corrosion on my windscreen frame bubbling under the paintwork. Just dawned on me I have no idea if it is steel or aluminium alloy? I don't have any fridge magnets so can anyone answer my query?
Ta
Phil
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I would fit an anderson plug for jump starting other vehicles but my own defender needed jumping often enough to need that I would assume something was wrong..
New Alternator? Bigger Alternator, Bigger Battery, New Battery, Dodgy wiring? I would look into these before I considered regularly plugging in a charger.
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Is that an Ibex on Portals ;-)
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Anyway, the sprint ?
The Banham owners or sprint owners site asked me about Yahoo but I,m not that computer literate to sign up
. The one I have has a rusty mini floorpan and a rusty space frame so I was toying with the idea of using the chassis off a 70's sports car and shoving a V8 in 
I have a chassis and it needs to be shortened by 10 inches but apart from that everything will fit very nicely including a V8. The thing will be much stronger with a roll bar etc and it will go like f"..lippin eck.
Would be nice to talk to sprint owners but not the purists who would say mine isn't a true sprint
I have always fancied a sprint as I can't drive a Sprite (legs too long!) I think your idea is better. I was thinking about building a Spaceframe for the Mini front subframe and rear suspension and fitting a Frogeye body over the top. A little OT for this forum..Sorry
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I think I did remarkably well reading your story! I bought from a dealer who knew nothing about defenders (the wheel boxes in the back of the 90 were described as an extra!) Apart from a few minor works (leaks) it's perfect.
Looking at your sig Landowner I see your building a sprint? are you on the yahoo group?
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The obvious advantage to an alternator rectified to a DC output is it's lack of reliance on synchronous speed. To use a 240v alternators AC output would need the engine to be governed at a speed that will give 50hz (i.e. 3000rpm, 1500rpm, 750rpm and others in between requiring more complicated pole and less common pole arrangements)
The obvious place under the engine bay for this in place of the aircon pump. Some ex-utilities defenders have one, usually accompanied by a hand throttle to ensure the load does not stall the engine. I can only remember these on 300tdi though.
P
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I am looking for a source for galvanised cappings for the tub of my 90 TD5 as mine have started to bubble. As my hardtop is going to have to come off to fit my P&P Bulkhead removal bar this seems like an ideal time to swap them.
I have found some for sale on the web but I am specifically looking for the station wagon version that does not have the sticky out bits for the bulkhead I will no longer have.
Any suggestions?
Galvanised like these:
But like parts AMN710160 and AMN710170.
P
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A good friend of mine (and Landy enthusiast) sold his trusty 130 due to high fuel bills but before that had 2 Series 3 and a 110. All of which needed a lot of work to keep them on the road.
Whn he needed a work horse he decided to go for a Hilux, which has been nothing but trouble..
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Pete, you need to cut away the portion of the dash at the bottom where the rear wash and cig lighter were if you want to fit the stereo as per late td5.
Mud site has some examples.
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That's interesting.
I have just bought a bulkhead removal bar, the P&P one. Then instructions say that the roof must be removed as the hardtop sides are in the way. This must be easier?
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In the last 2-3 months of LRM magazine there has been a write up of Lindsay Porter's 110 TD5 CSW being converted LHD to RHD and the parts list is very extensive including new bulkhead etc.
Maybe worth the cost of a few back copies and the current mag to read what's involved. His was done by Nene Overland, so I suspect they would have a parts listing and a good idea of costs involved.
Cheers
Steve
Been a useful read. Also a few tips for those considering a bulkhead swap of any type.
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In the near future I am thinking about getting my ECU remapped. I know that the 2000 one I have can be flashed once a new chip is soldered in but I am quite tempted to fit a later one and get that remapped. I would like to take advantage of things like the cruise control at some point.
Does this make sense? Are there any reasons not to fit a 2002MY version if I have it remapped for my specific engine?
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Been wondering the same. Seen a few Defenders around Warwick with them. So Silverline seems I like place for them to come from.
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Relocate to where exactly? Have you heard of fiddle brakes, that could be the direction you're heading with this.
Sorry, meant I am looking to relocate the lever (or remove entirely) Ultimately I am going automatic with NAS type centre console so the Range Rover lever may not work as well as it does with a cubby box.
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But as well as improving performance of the brake I am looking to relocate. I will start with an X-Brake I think and a Range Rover lever and see where I go from there.
Thanks for the advice all
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Been thinking about the options for moving the handbrake.
Firstly I was thinking about removing the drum and fitting something like the X-Eng - X-Brake. Not only does this appear to me a better option than standard, it also offers the flexibility to try some other options.
I considered a hydraulic brake, my thoughts where to use a hydraulic lever and a single caliper. I thought this was legal (using my knowledge of SVA) as it would be a secondary system but it seems MOT specifically state it must not be hydraulic. (although it can be hydraulically assisted)
Another option was to use an EPB module from another car. Loads seem to have an electronic brake and I can see no reason one couldn't be fitted to the transmission. Like this one.
There may be others available. Maybe something servo or motorised that pulls the cable that I could fit inside the seatbox?
Any thoughts?
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I was thinking speedline or maybe another continental make I forget the name of.
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Actually all though there seem to be lots of negatives I found MRM one of the most cooperative of a large bunch! This bunch being the "LR specialists" who seem to have a load of cars in a yard, generally on a farm, not well prepared, easy to access stored, never mind easy to find or connectable! Just daft things on the cars that have supposedly had a paint job get they didn't bother to change the knackered hinges or replace a few missing covers.
If you want super service from an independent go to Nene or Foley and pay their kind of money!
I am not going to slag anyone of as my name is just over there <----
I was looking for a 300Tdi 90 they had one, it was a little tatty around the edges but was a load better than some where trying to sell for £2k more having had a re-spray and "refurbishment"
The guy that I met was friendly and left me to my own devices to look around the car. I looked at that 130, he has had that one of a while. I didn't look in detail but it seemed nice. He told me at the time he liked to turn the cars around quickly so 5 months on he might do you a deal?
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In my 90 I have great problems fitting in. I am only 6'6" but have legs disproportionately long for my height!
I have fitted mud rails which has given me a little more space (well a lot but not enough), I am still deciding which way to go with bulkhead removal, MUD, North Offroad or Protection and Performance. A new, smaller steering wheel will be going on after this weekend but I am still tight against the door. The handbrake will get moved when I fit a cubby.
This isn't the same problem as most people have. I can't jut wind down the window and stick my knees out! I have removed the interior door pull as that is right where my knees go and I seem to manage, but I have been told the the sliding window, lift handle doors a la Wolf and early 110 would give me more space. Has anyone got a picture, from the drivers seat which shows the steering wheel, this type of door that might give me an impression of the extra space (if any?)
Moving the seat across is something I thought about but that doesn't really solve the problem due to the steering wheel.
If I don't get some sliding window doors then I will certainly have to by an electric window kit as I can't get to the winder without taking my foot off the gas.
Any other advice also gratefully received!
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Do you know the previous owner? Looks like a DNO vehicle.
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I need this kind of key freedom in my life!
. The one I have has a rusty mini floorpan and a rusty space frame so I was toying with the idea of using the chassis off a 70's sports car and shoving a V8 in 
How to make a 110 into a 130
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
By a new galv 130 chassis from Marchland or Richards and a new prop. Then rebuild
Re-assembly is simply reversal of removal..