smacsor

Many thanks for all your advice. It looks like the Disco 300 dti is the way to go! Life is sweet sometimes - being paid to go and buy a Land Rover!! Simon

Hello, I've just popped over from the defender forum with a slightly odd Disco question. I'm a Director for a national charity supporting people with learning disabilities. At one of our services, we have a coffee trailer unit which is run as a social enterprise and has been towed by a ford Galaxy. Unsurprisingly the clutch keeps burning out as the galaxy only has a towing capacity of 2 tons and the trailer unit is 2.3 tons. I've have been asked to procure either a Freelander, Discovery, Defender or Range Rover to replace the Galaxy (I have responsibility for the companies vehicle fleet). We usually buy new or nearly new but this is a one-off and we need something cheap (£3-4K). I have suggested a Discovery 300 tdi on the basis that's its the best balance between price, power and economy and RR is too big, Defender too expensive and Freelander too....pants. Do you agree with my vehicle choice and will I get something half-tidy in this price range?? Thanks, simon

Yes I can confirm that, although they don't come up that often. It'll be on a Wednesday and you can check the catalogue in advance. http://www.westburyma.co.uk/calendar.htm Simon

Have to say I wasn't impressed with my first experience with them either? I ordered a new seat base which generally was good quality except the brackets that locate the bar on the base were welded on wonky so the base pops out of the locating slots every time my ar** breaks contact.

Many thanks.....now I have a job for next weekend!

Thanks for that Ralph, but looking more closely, the finger has fractured off leaving a bit fixed in the camlink which just spins round. So I assume I need to fit a new "finger"? Do you know the part number for that? How does this locate in the cam link? Feeling around beneath the bit left it, it feels like there's a tiny split pin in there? So will I need to remove the camlink as fell to fit the finger to it? Many thanks, Simon

This finally prompted me to get up off my ar** and see wht my difflock isn't work (it's never worked - had the vehicle a few months) and this photo was perfect!! On mine the small round bar at the bottom of the pivot arm that is supposed to be connected to the camlink.......aint connected at all!!! How does this bar fix to the camliink. It looks like its fractured on mine....is it all the same part as the camlink. Any ideas on part numbers? Ta, Simon

It's probably the same rift in space and time that let's big black Range Rovers loose on the streets of Cardiff?

My hub caps are brittle and cracked. In my ignorance, I assumed the caps were only a dust seal. I'll buy some some new ones!! Many thanks, simon

Apologies resurrecting this one but I still haven't resolved. I've tightened the five bolts but I don't think thats the problem area? When I removed the hub caps there was a pool of a fairly light clean oil in them and it appears to be dripping from the area around the circlip by the splined shaft. Where is the axle breather and what do I need to check here? If it's not that, do I safely assume its the hub oil seal thats failed and is that an easy job for a novice? Thanks, Simon

Sorted...nice one..thanks!

Ignore that. I'm talking b*****ks (again). This is the right diagram!!!

Ralph, Could you be so kind as to post a diagram of the next section towards the rear. I have a clamp that is bolted to a bracket that forms part of the gearbox mount that has sheared meaning that the exhaust vibrates against the chassis at a certain rev range making a head-turning banshee noise! Thanks, simon

Manged to download it, burn the ISO image and install on my PC but when I try and start the programme it says "cannot find an authorised Microcat dongle". Did you have this problem. The website says it includes a crack to allow access? Simon

Hope thats of some use Paul (remember look at the RMS wats not peak wats) But bear in mind that a speaker doesn't have an "output" as such. The RMS figure refers to the power handling capability. But even that can be misleading as speakers are more often damaged by overdriven low powered amps than high powered ones due to distortion components in the signal. The two main variables that will affect volume are the power of the amplifier and the main factor is the efficiency of the speaker (measured in db at 1 metre for 1 watt input). Simon

It's the outside of the hub and hub cap. Back plate is dry. Simon

Hi, When changing a wheel cylinder on my 1985 I noticed that the both rear hubs are wet with oil. It's not enough to contaminate the drums or shoes but it means with the wheels on both hub caps are permanently wet. I'm not that experienced in such matters but want to give the repair a go. I'm assuming from previous posts that is either going to be the gasket or oill seal? I also want to make sure that I have all the necessary parts to hand. Should I be replacing the wheel bearings at the same time (or anything else?). I notice Les has a really helpful guide to replacing the front hub seals on the Technical Archive. Is the procedure exactly the same for the rears with drum brakes? Many thanks, Simon

Hi Les, On my vehicle the whole of the drive flange is wet with oil and the hub cap itself is saturated although it's not yet contaminated the brake drum. Is this still likely to be the gasket or something more tricky. Don't want to start something I can't see through! cheers, Simon

Hi Les, On my vehicle the whole of the drive flange is wet with oil and the hub cap itself is saturated although it's not yet contaminated the brake drum. Is this still likely to be the gasket or something more tricky. Don't want to start something I can't see through! cheers, Simon

Don't suppose I could be a real pain and ask if you have the part number for the hasp/staple?

Simmonites list them for £175 plus VAT?? http://simmonites.com/DEFENDER%20BODY%20PANELS.htm

I've got one of those but unfortunately my 90 is an early one with the pancake shaped filler cap and its about 90mm between the lugs whereas the 4740 is about 65mm. The locking hasp could be a solution though? Cheers, simon

After getting my original 2 lug non-locking type filler cap nicked, I have decided to try and convert to a locking type. I have acquired a locking cap and the corresponding filler neck from a later defender (Part No: NTC2676), but the rubber hose from the neck to the tank on my vehicle looks far too wide at the end where it clamps on to the neck filler? I can't seem to find the right part that I need, can anyone advise a part number? Or will I need to change the tank as well to a later type to complete this conversion? Thanks, Simon

Meant to add as well that you get the computer print out which shows manufacturers specifications and before and after readings so you know it's been done properly!!

I too can highly recommend Protyre in Bristol. They have a computerised 4 wheel alignment rig and are highly professional. They were recommended to me by Steve Hill Landrovers in Brislington and they did a first class job on mine. They charge £20 plus Vat for check and adjust. Telephone number is 0117 9540123. Cheers, Simon