CYmon

Hi all, Now the proud owner of a Nanocom unit, and having cleared all my faults I left it in the car to "see" what happens when driving. I pulled my horse trailer (empty) down the Motorways from the north of England to Dover - then from Calais to my home town, near Dijon. 1300km in all. Ambient temps were 12-18 degC in the UK and 20-32deg C in France. I drove at more or less the same speed all the time...65mph - 100km/h ie 2500rpm. The coolant temp needle on the dashboard never buddged --- yet the temp reported by the Nanocom varies from (once "warm") 82 right up to 100 degC. In the UK... cooler ambient temp, and ignoring the hills for now, the car ran at 88 degC most of the time, rising to 90 every now and then...especially when the engine dropped below 2000rpm. In France... warmer ambient temp, and ignoring the hills for now, the car also ran at 88 degC, but didn't rise to 90 as much and even dropped to 83 at one point. When I stopped and truned off the ignition, the engine felt warm... A friend said "Its running hot - whats its ideal temp...? " So thats my question... what is the ideal running temperature...? Would a radiator clean be of any use? Should I be considering getting a new Radiator...? ... or is this perfectly normal ... ? Cheers Simon

Hi ... Very Familiar...been there.. etc etc. Check the front gutter joint over the Windscreen, on the side that leaks. You'll find that there may be a very small crack in the paint/joint. I had to remove the front pilar plastic and loose the nice use-once-throw-away clips that hold it on. Then unclip the bit of plastic at the front of the gutter. Look inside over the windscreen and you'll see the crack. Mine was caused by too much weight on the roof rack (4 patio doors) and going round a corner to quickly :-( ! Put some marine grade black silicone in the gaps and rub it in. Then put some more in. When its dry, clean the area - dont block the drain ! Water is supposed to run down the windscreen side of this "drain". Hope this helps, Simon

Hi Scrumps, Use Old Gasket : OK looks like its rubber so should be easy to clean. ECU Loom... there is a ful description on how to change this in Rave, and as mine is burnt I thought I'd change it too. But now I'll get the meter out and just check all the connectors. I think Rave has a pin by pin list of what should go where. When I drove 8 hours yesterday to Paris and back (post finding burnt wire), it didn't cough at all, but I had no power... Even under the cruise controls I couldnt get to more than 3100 rpm in 5th (which rules out a throttle pot problem). I guess my engine is in "safe mode", plenty of power up to 2200, then it just eases off the power. Cheers Simon

Hi Scrumps, Does this mean I also need the orcker cover gasket..? And how do I know if I have an EU3 or not model...? My Engine has the three pipe regulator. I was talking about the wiring loom between the engine and the ecu... thats the one thats "burnt". Cheers Simon

Hi, Had mine (1999 ACE/AirCoils/AirCon/HeatedEverythings) for three and half years too... Rear left hub - changed in year 1 (you can get JUST the hub from BM (£150+vat)) ABS/Traction lights - reset system (LR dealer) after change of hub - year 1 Rear Left Air Spring - year 2. last three weeks... - drivers heated seat no longer works (light does, just no heat) - rear door opened whilst driving and bent the hinges - took door off and beat them back into shape. Considering getting new ones. - leak in roof over drivers door/wind screen joint (caused by too much weight on roof rack and going round corners) - Right Air Spring (bought two in year 1!) - Coughing just started - not fixed yet - I do have oil in wiring loom - I plan on changing it ASAP - Just noticed (thanks to a previous post) that I have no bush rubber left on the front shocks, lower mount. But appart from that.... ...Great ride, I've done 100,000Km with only the usual oil/air/fuel filter changes. Get one, but check all these (and other) issues and have it plugged into TESTBOOK (or other) to make sure its all ok.

Hi folks, I've decided to change the wiring loom (see photo on my Td5 Misfire[France] thread) but cant figure out which one I need...nor where to buy it from... Can anyone make some suggestions, Thanks Simon

Ho ho... what bushes...! Thanks for the tip though... I'll try to get some bushes from Paddock, or if not a "bloke I know". Simon

It was no better...coughs from 2200 upwards, then went into "limp home mode"...no turbo, no coughing. Last question for now... how much force should I need to make the arm on the Wastegate actuator move...? I had to push quite hard to get it to move... does the "Turbo side" have that much force...? Basically, I could not just hold the rod in my fingers and move it, nor could I do so with closed fist an pliers... I had to put a spanner behind the nut and push from the front of the car..when it moved, it moved freely. I'll be back here in a week or so... Cheers Simon

Enough for today...tools away... The attached photo shows the wiring loom as it passes the coolant sensor over the A/C compressor. I dont know if its standard procedure to pass the cables UNDER the coolant hose but this one did (Rave - 86-7-15 shows it going over). Right over the ERG pipe; I'll bet it was touching it... and there is one bare wire. It looks brown, but then they all did until I cleaned them up a bit. This wire part of the Injector loom change I guess... there seems to be a lot of other pieces too (starter - alternator - battery holder). I took the WG Solenoid out, cleaned it, checked its resistance --> 27 ohms. Free passage between inlet manifold (top) and Wastegate (side). Bottom goes to the turbo outpipe. I figured the Waste gate lever should be pushed, and it is free to move. I drive up to Paris tomorrow morning, early, so I thing I'll go for a short drive first... Simon

Hi, That sounds familiar... Whilst driving along, if I swing the steering left and right, I too hear a clonk as something shifts... Many town centers here have sleeping police road bumps...set at an odd angle that really slows people down ---> or wrecks cars if you dont. I had thought that the bumping sound was the exhaust swinging side ways, but I've just had a look at mine. Or rather a listen... dead easy...the shocks swing freely inside the spring !! And as you said, there is no rubber left in the bush, just dust. Changing them is described in RAVE, similar to a classic RR but with some modern touches (drain the coolant reservoir !!) cheers Simon

Hi, Well I cant get the bolt behind the heat shield to budge so I removed the bolts on the actuator. It wont come off its mountings (ie towards the raidiator) because the linkage will not budge. So I've removed the slip ring, but still cant get the linkage off of the wastegate lever... I never force anything together/appart - always a bad idea in my book. Is the wastegate "sprung" or should it move freely ? Can I spray WD40 onto the link / wastegate lever (I also have a product called PLUSGAS that helps with these things. Cant remeber if its UK or Fr). Simon

Hi Ian, You could try bypassing [the turbo wastegate modulator], as per Defender... How...? Connect the pipe from the Inlet manif directly to the turbo actuator..? Hence hi vaccumb opens the waste gate... That right ? Oil in injector loom ... Yes, well... a very light film, enough to smear on my finger, but nothing worth opening an oil platform for. I took the other off too. Bone dry. So I guess a new loom is looming. Wastegate ... As per a previous post (thanks) can I just unbolt the actuator and see if there is free movement...(this avoids having to remove the heat shield)...? Yes, the sensor (in french "capteur de pression de collecteur") and MAF were changed. Thanks Simon

Ahh... I was thinking of something along these lines...? Its raining donkies and elephants at the moment, but as soon as they go back to where they belong I'll have a check. Page 18-1-34 of Rave shows th eoperation details and their symptoms are similar to what I have (smoke, lack of power). Its interesting that MIL doesn't come on for any of these errors (fuel pump, TBWasteMod) Thanks Simon

Hi guys, Thanks for the info (and the welcome)... yes, I originally wondered if it was the Pump... I've read lots of comments about them being almost disposable items worth keeping in stock ! The guy at ETT in Paris said that the problem was not with the fuel supply, but with the air intake - after he changed the MAF things were much better but he wasnt happy. "There is still something wrong," he added and changed the outlet manifold pressure sensor. Problem is being here in France, although my folks live 30 miles from Paddock, delivery times here are quite slow, and I have to be sure that I have ALL the bits I need before starting open tank surgery... I'd prefer to order more than I need (always sell on to others here in France!) than find Im missing one little 49p item. So... what do I need...? Pump Seal what else? I saw there was a Test/refit the TD5 Fuel pump article somewhere and I've found the missing RAVE files from your site (anyone need the NAS V8 Specs...?). The Haynes manual should arrive sometime this week too. I read that there is a special tool to extract the pump...special or easy to make ? (LRT-19-009) Before I jump... can any of the sensors/other bits cause this...? From RAVE --> Fuel Temp error --> Driveability concern. Turbo wastegate modulator? many thanks, Simon

Hi, I read with interest the TD5 Spain thread of last year about a coughing TD5 but as the solution was to change the ECU, it didn't really help me. My Landy: "1999 Disco II, XA year, 130,000km + a 2003 engine, 30,000km" bought from a non LR Landy specialist in 2005. I bought an AutoLogic remaped ECU off eBay and had it fitted by LR Dealer (so I guess they did the injector coding). No problems at all over the past three years (now at 206,000 km), then, suddenly.... My problem: When accelerating under load (ie up a hill) the car SOMETIMES coughs between the 2,200 and higher rev ranges. Sometimes I can rev right up to 4,000 rpm in 2nd, 3rd and 4th no problem. Sometimes I cant get past 3000rpm, but no coughing. The problem seems to come and go. It seams worse on damp days...weird. When I cant get past 3000rpm, I can stop... wait a mo for the engine to cool down, turn off, wait 15 secs, restart and the TD5 is back to full power - for a while. What have I done about it so far...? I stopped off at a non LR but LR specialist (ETT Paris) who changed the MAF and one of the Turbo Pressure sensors. He still found the car to be lacking in power but he found it to only cough over 3000 rpm. He said there were 10 reported T4 errors, but "forgot to note them down." When I got home, I found the Gas Recirculation hose was loose - so I fixed it back into its hole in the post-MAF part of the inlet before the turbo. I took took the car for a spin in nice hot weather and all seemed well Today its raining and horrible and the coughing at 2200 is back. Stop, Start: Gone, Rev up to 3500 on flat ground, all ok. Tried to climb a small hill... Cough cough... I've the RAVE NAS documents for a v8 but not TD5 info - now that HAYNES have published one its just been ordered and am impatiently awaiting the book. I'm thinking of changing the other sensors around the turbo, before my next trip to the LR (or not) dealers... 400€ just to change the MAF and one sensor hurts ! As it is, I can drive at 2000 rpm and lower and it will creap up to 2500 / 3000 slowly (when it does cough) but the problem needs fixing ! All help greatly appriciated... cheers Simon