Tobias
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Posts posted by Tobias
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If you have the broken-off piece at hand and are prepared to send it to Sweden, I can have it tested for chemical composition and microstructure to give welding gurus something to work on.
Have access to all the right equipment ;-)
Tobias
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During the recent trip to Åland, my friend got his RRC stuck. With my portals and 38,5" Swampers i could easily go round him in the bog for a front recovery.
he had a decent front bumper with attachement points and a bridle, i had Jate rings on the rear frame horns and a bridle and a KERR in between, we thought we were safe.
While trying again and again, slowly increasing the length for speed-build up as I use to I managed to reverse over my bridle. i wrapped itself one turn around the rear axle. We put in the right position for self rerotation and i slowly drove over it before pulling hard. BANG!
My end of the KERR with shackle went through his grille, autobox cooler (flexalite, not original) and dented the ACcondenser and moved the radiator about an inch rearward.
Phew!
The analysis shows that my bridle was apparently damaged while wrapped around the axle, which seems reasonable as we think about it.
Check you equipment frequently and especially after something strange happens!
First pic is just before the incident and the second is after
Tobias
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Has it been deleted? "file not found"
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To reduce OT clutter in this thread I have started my own thread on my front three link.
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=27102
T
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I have ran the calcs in three link calculator. Not sure how relevant, since the measurements are somewhat guess work, at least panhard and upper link frame mount. COG is a big guess...
155% AS
Rotated the pinion towards the transfer case output, to reduce the gorrible vibrations I had with my previous setup. At the same time converted from radius arms to three link (using radius arms, less rear bolts as lower links)
Preliminary testing show good success in both targets. Will have to rotate portal housings by redrilling the bolt holes in the axle flanges to regain caster. one side finished one to go...
Sorry for the horrible mobile pictures.
T
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although Tobias is perfectly correct our experience has been that if you use rover rear suspension geometry then the separation isnt a prob even with portals, pay particular attention to the weld, you need high horsepower to sort this - its not in the realms of 160A mig rigs, you simply wont get the penetration and heat you need
HIJACK!
Whats your ideas in front?
Just yesterday finished converting from original radius arms to three link with third link as upper, on left side between frame rail and engine sump.
Vertical separation at axle on 235mm, just under 10".
Vertical separation at frame 0.
Length of upper link about 50mm shirter than lower, which are the radius arms, less the rear bolts.
Axle mount of upper is 20-30mm from panhard bar when at rest, so I was a bit worried of contact during braking, but some severe road tests yesterday show no dents in paintwork of panhard.
Locking up all four on tarmac and hearing the squealing, without carnage, is reassuring
Hope to reduce wheel hop on climbs due to axle wrap through this work, as I had to rotate to reduce UJ angles anyway.
Tobias
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Vertical separation?
If you have the bottom mounts at bottom of axle and ball joint at the same vetical separation as original, you have approximately doubled the forces. You need to double the vertical separation to retain equal loads.
T
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When i looked at my saved fuelling file I have some peaks with high balance numbers.
Most of the time they are below 5 but the largest peak is
-21
-1
-22
17
27
for a very short time.
Is this a problem or just a temporary system glitch?
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Now I've read out the codes I stored.
TD5 ECU Contain the following fauts code
3-7 air flow circuit (current)
4-1 inlet air temperature circuit (current)
9-6 EGR inlett throttle open load (logged)
9-7 EGR vacum modulator open load (logged)
13-6 EGR inlet trottle schort circuit (current)
20-5 EGR valve stuck closed (logged)
31-2 injector 2 open circuit (logged)
31-3 injector 3 open circuit (logged)
31-4 injector 4 open circuit (logged)
31-5 injector 5 open circuit (logged)
Anyone with ideas what they mean?
Tobias
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JimAttril: thank you for that!
Sent an email to nanocom day before yesterday and got a reply today. Not at all bad!
I get a lot of init errors. Is there a better way than to restart the car?
First, now the SLABS diagnostics function work just with the engine stopped, Second Nanocom was originally born for work just on the engine ECU, so the OBD port may have problem in some cars that have ground refereces of the ECUs a little higher than 0V.
We are testing an adaptor that allow the unit to have strong communication with all the ECUs. allowing also to use SLABS diagnostic when the engine runs. It will be ready in January, it will have a small price, and it doesn't require any modification, is just a small box to connect between he nanocom and the OBD cable.
Fuelling file save, how do I read the file?
You can see the content of theese files with the graphic viewer application that you find in your start menu of window, in the NANOCOM folder.
How to use this tool is described on the NANOCOM user manual.
How do I use the power bleed / ABS bleed for the ABS?
Power bleed allow to activate the ABS pump for 5 second and this give the possibility of bleed the main oil circuit to take off the air.
The modulator bleed allow to take of the air from the modulator circuit.To do that you must open the bleed screw until the oil start bleed than close the screw.Now push the pedal as srong you can and activate the modulator bleed for 3 or 4 times.Release the pedal and press it again and do again the modulator bleed function.Repeat this last points several times until the air is completely off from the circuit.
Is there documentation coming for the ABS SLS part?
Of course, it is in developement.
What is the trip function?
Trip master function.The documentation is in developement.
Best regards
Mattia
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Got my nanocom today and played around with it a bit.
2000MY Disco 2 auto with SLS ACE etc
Cleared my ABS faults so the four amigos went out :-)
Cleared some faults int the engine, but as i could not read the fault file without nanocom connected I have no list available right now...
Imagined or not but the engine feels smoother after that.
Went around driving a bit and played a lot but there are lots of ecu init errors. any hints?
Any experience of ABS / Power bleeding? Can I use that to bleed the brakes?
Tobias
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Cosworth: what is the problem with changing the sensor? Does broken bits of the sensor fall into the hub?
I have the fault and a new sensor lying in its bag. Should I not even go for it unless I have a new hub?
have ordered Nanocom to read and clear codes, will receive it within a few days, I hope.
Tobias
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Just ordered a Nanocom through famous four.
Will be luverly being able to delete the faults just as i roll into the MOT station
T
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I have the same problem.
Any suggestion on which computer/code reader to use and also to reset the faults to make the light go out?
Tobias
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This is a topic I will try ot follow closely.
I have 15" wheels on my Volvo's so discs are more or less out of the question and I'm not prepared by a long stretch to change brakes, wheels and tires.
I still have not flooded my brakes to the extent where I've felt the loss of brakes, but I'm sure it exists and would welcome any mod to improve drying.
Turning a groov would seem quite easy if you have access to a lathe.
But let's hear some experience with the holes first.
Tobias
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Increasing the driven speed, increases the flow rate. The driven speed is often limited by cavitation caused be turbulence at the inlet port.
The speed at which cavitation occurs could be increased if the inlet port is made larger and steps, corners etc, smoothed to reduce turbulence.
The inlet line needs to be larger than the the delivery line, but often the inlet and delivery ports are the same size if the pump direction can be reversed.
Since pumping is all about pressure differences. What about putting a (low) overvpressure in the tank?
Would this prevent cavitation / allow a higher overspeed before cavitation is a problem?
T
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PM Sent!
Thanks
Tobias
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I have a 1985 RRC where i have replaced the LT77 with a TF727.
From beginning it has occasionally missed the starting in that the starter gears have not properly engaged the starter ring gear making a schreeching noise or sometimes just clicking and whirring.
This has progressively gone worse, to the point where it misses and screeches about 7 times of 8.
Starter has been changed during this period with no positive effekt and starter ring gear is new.
In my conversion kit i got no lower tie plate and tie rod between engine and gearbox. My newest idea is that perhaps the engine and gearbox "hang down" making an angle for the starter gear to starter ring gear, making engagement difficult.
I tried the last thing this evening to lift the car in the joint gearbox/engine with an imagined improvement from 1 success in 8 tries to 3 successes out of 4.
I will try to cobble up a tie rod tomorrow.
Another quesion is which side the the starter ring gear should be mounted of the flex plate. Now it is on the gearbox side.
Clearance between starter gear and starter ring gear when not engaged is about 5 mm.
Other ideas are:
Chamfering the gears on starter/starter ring gear to ease engagement.
switch side of starter ring gear to lower clearance.
Any ideas from the Forum?
Tobias
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Not what you asked, but perhaps you already have waffles?
I have waffles I use for ramps when loading the RR onto my trailer. The trailer is just above 70cm high and the waffles are the longer from FF (180cm?)
Works well, but when loading a Volvo 245 onto it we had to find a slope so that the belly of the volvo would clear, since the angle is steep.
The waffles make some noise, but seem to hold up.
This is what it looks like, no pic of the actual loading arrangement but that can be arranged.
Tobias
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I'd say it depends a lot on vehicle (weight) and tyre sidawall stiffness.
On my '85 RRC I had the Trelleborg 8.90-16 diagonals for a while. (Volvo 303 standard fitment)
They were at best around 0,23-0,30 Bar
Tireloc internal beadlock
Now with a '89 RRC and michelin XCL 7.50-16 I run 0,5 rear and about 0,75 front for ease of steering.
Have softer tires now, with a radial and higher pressure.
T
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Are all halfshafts destined to snap?
For example i have an FWD car that has done ~200k miles. Considering the lack of impact and shock loading (as the car is an auto FWD car) will thes halfshafts eventually snap? Does metal get weaker due to use or does it "work harden" with time?
Will the halfshafts in my car be stronger or weaker than when they were first installed?
if metal isn't "worn" down, or destroyed by rust, does it have a useful life? i would guess it would be in the tens or hundreds of years?
This got me thinking of LR halfshafts, do they break with such frequency purely because they aren't specified for our needs? or do older ones break with due to "age"?
(this question discounts vagaries of manufacturing and wear patterns- ie ignore fractures due to bad manufacturing)
Basics of fatigue has nbeen farily well covered already.
The material itself does not age, so the material itself is as strong as when the car was new, but it may well contain cracks, which weakens the component. As the crack (s) propagate there is less and less area left which is accying the load and eventually it is small enough that a very small load can snap the last part.
Aluminium notably does not have an endurance limit, as steel, hence crack tests in airfraft components. When the crack is long enough the part is changed out.
For engine components, which see an enourmous amount of loadings and unloadings it is often the endurance limit that is the designing factor, while Axle/chassis components see fewer rpms and hence fewer loadings and can be designed to a higher level of stress and a set fatigue life.
The simple answer is that LR half shafts are not designed for the loads. The reason the RR was full time 4x4 I think was just to spread the load on 4 halfshafts because 2 were deemed not strong enough.
Tobias (works with fatigue related problems ;-) )
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Was a good price, looked at getting one imported. That was gonna work out expensive, then this one came along
Not exaclty what you were asking for, but we have a 1,75" die (44,5mm)
Have tried it with 44,5 tube (CDS) 3,2mm thickness and the min diameter after bending was 95% of maximum (same as nominal)
Also tried it with 42mm water pipe (blue) and min thicknes was 90% of max/nominal.
Tobias
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Put it in the front!
My friend has a TT in his 1989 RC. I have one waiting on the shelf for installation in my wifes D2.
I put a TT in the rear of my RRC first. Had issues with understeering when going in deep snow.
After about 6 months I put one in front as well and it behaves very beautifully.
Using this as a reference my frind just added to the front and he can follow me on trails where I go with front+rear TT and 7.50 Michelin XCLs. He has TT only front, road tires standard size and is very much more gentle with his vehicle. He follows me on rather rough tracks and once had to be winched out, but I bruted my way through. Still open question if I would have made it going as slow as him.
you can see pics here:
http://www.signcraft.se/rimbo30sep/rimbo30sep.htm
pages 6-10 especially.
Put it in the front!
Tobias
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I have a 1989 (build date 1988) early 3.9 hotwire RRC
I have the factory manual in paper form for the 1990- RRC and it has helped some, however it says the relays for among other things should be in the right footwell, or posibly to the right in the left footwell.
I only have relays just to the left of the steering shaft.
In the engine compartment, at the right side of the firewall I have the washer relay as per manual but also six others. Might the heater fan relay be here?
I have tried by looking at the colours of the wires to these relays, to no avail
Most wires disappear through the firewall.
The heater fan switch seems to be working, at least different pins are connected at the different positions. By jumpering the constant 12V to different other pins on the switch connector I get no result.
I think I have the switch working right, but not the relay, but it may just as well be something else.
For some time before this all has happened there was blinking of the low coolant light. This blinking stopped every time, after a certain while, like a few minutes. It seemed that the fan did not work for as long as the light was blinking, but according to PTSchram this should not happen. Is the light/level switch connected in series somewhere?
Also I have two relay bases under the passenger seat, not connected to the engine harness. Only one of these has a relay...
Where is the fan relay?
Tobias
Nanocom on a Disco TD5
in Discovery Forum
Posted
What is a reasonable max on engine temp?
Mine will raise from 88 to 95 when towing the rangie up a hill with the auto in 3rd and a mild box-chiptune
T