Tobias
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Posts posted by Tobias
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https://controls.is/dsl1.html is the link to the guy in Iceland
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Have you offered to send these pics to Ashcrofts?
I had an issue with one of these once, and it seemed they were genuinely grateful to receive pics of the carnage.
Tobias
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On 1/30/2019 at 8:07 PM, EddieZW said:
After searching High and Low for someone who has done this before I stumble @tacr2man post 9 years later. I bought a 300tdi engine complete with pump etc to fit on my 110 and lo and behold on delivery noticed its the EDC. Any pointers will be greatly appreciated. I am using the existing setup due to budget contsraints as I will need to change pump, pipes and injectors to VE. Any experiences will be greatly appreciated
You can use your existing injectors and pipes even with a mechanical pump.
There is a guy in Iceland who is building an aftermarket controller for the electronic pump. I am going that route I think...
T
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On 1/29/2011 at 10:03 PM, DaveSIIA said:
Sorry, should have phrased the reply better - brain probably in neutral after a numbing week.
300Tdi Defender has a cable drive speedo. The fitting on the Disco transfer box will be the same, once the electronic transducer is removed. Defender speedo cable will fit (with the addition of the retaining clamp).
No, the square hole where the speedo cable end goes in doesn't fit. The Disco hole is smaller.
You can easily change over the speedo drive gear from the transfer case of a defender, if you have it, or buy a new speedo drive gear if you don't have it.
The TD5 transducer is the same size as defender cable, so that doesn't fit either, without changing the speedo drive.
T
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Arjan,
I don't argue which is faster. I do still want to say that in serious off camber situations, studs are not enough. I see the uses as quite different. High speed road use is studs, but not 100% controlled.
For 100% control and serious inclines, even more so with (heavy) trailer you need 100% control and sacrifice speed and go for chains.
Tobias
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16 hours ago, Arjan said:
If the road is really iced up - chains, too will not do a lot..
I don't have the same experience, may it be due to different types of ice or different chains, I do not know. My experience on clear ice is with the type och chain i provided a link for above. Trying to shift around the 2t+ traileresque thingy used to spread grit on the road on only studded tires worked most of the times, but when the road was just pure ice, some 2-3+ cm of ice over a gravel road, especially with temperatures at or just above freezing, when the ice gets covered in a thin layer of water, was downright scary with studded tires. With the linked type of chains it was easy peasy. Slow, no more than 20-25km/h, but steady and fully controlled. The trailer-thingy in question was on unstudded tires.
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i think I know the answer, but worth a try.
I tried advancing the pump timing through the inspection hole at the injection pump pulley as several posts describe. it turns out I got the slotted holes aligned in a way that allows me to retard the timing, but not advance. The pump is already all the way towards the most advanced setting in the slots.
I now know I should have aligned them the other way around when installing the belt.
is there any way to fix this, short of removing the timing cover?
Thanks
Tobias -
Chains make a huge difference, on Ice and snow both.
I used something like this:
on all four wheels on a D2 with a grit spreader behind. laden weight at least 2 tons. Steep inclines were not a problem.
Fairly easy and quick to fit and remove.
I also used them at a play day on a P38 in about 10-15cm snow.
A small light Suzuki got nowhere on ATs, since temperature was around 0C and the snow packed hard but got a layer of water in between snow and tires, making it really slippery.
T
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Thanks!
Am redoing the back of my 130 eventually and have saved a plastic Disco1 tank I was intending on fitting. Also have a p38 tank on the way to the garbage, but that openas up more options. One of each for maximum overland range?
I have all three models of tanks/senders available and 300tdi and td5 defender instruments to use for measuring. Anything specific you want me to test?
Tobias
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I have no help to offer on your question, but am curious as to what Defender you fitted it into and how? Pictures?
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Hi
I will break a 1998 300tdi Auto Disco 1 to get the gearbox. The auto box will go into a 1997 Defender 90.
As far as i can see from the ETM there is no talk going on between the Wabco ABS ECu and anything else.
This leads me to believe it would be possible to transfer the hubs/brakes or complete axles with brakes and hook up the ABS in the Defender as well.
Anybody done this?
Anybody care to tell why it wouldn't work or what I need to look out for to make it work?
Thanks
Tobias -
17 hours ago, western said:
on the Roamerdrive page it say won't fit V8 models due to exhaust location http://roamerdrive.com/ds_sumpcov.html & in the fitting info -- On V8 engine models there may be insufficient space due to the location of the exhaust pipe
can't see where it says can't be fitted to defender 130's
It was the Flatdog site referenced earlier that said that. Roamerdrive says it fits all diesels, so I should be good.
Thanks
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On their web page they suggest it's not suitable for a 130. Any idea why?
T
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Sorry if I was unclear. It's not the ball to mirror junction that's sloppy, it's the door hinge to mirror arm. There are indents there to allow the mirror arm to stick out approx. 90 degrees from the side of the Land Rover and a few mor eindents furthe rrearward, I guess to allow for pedestrian impact or reduced width on e.g. ferries and such. it's these indented positions that's lost their spring force.
Pictures stolen from :
http://defender90xs.blogspot.se/2014/10/heated-mirrors-installation.html
Tobias
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Hi,
my door mounted mirror arms are "floppy". The right one more so than the left one. The arm moves back and forth in relationship to the door in the wind.
There seems to be a spring inside the "thingy" fixed to the door and it feels as if it should be adjustable. But I have failed to succeed in understanding how.
Could anyone please explain how it is done?
Thanks
Tobias -
Keep it coming!
Thanks to your write up i stripped down my turbo yesterday and am tempted to go this route and put the VNT kit I have intended to fit up for sale.
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Thanks for good advice and explanation. I usually drive with mechanical sympathy, but then there's the missus...
A TGV is on the bench as well. I guess it goes on with the 2.8, if not before.
Looked around on the M&D Website without finding any uprated clutch, i guess I need to call them?
I am currently running a ZF 4HP22 with the Disco 300td engine it came with, but had decided to swap back to the R380 when the engine gets swapped back as a 2.8. I am open for suggestions on whether that gearbox would be a better option for longevity/reliability in this specific application.
Between the expenses of engine rebuild, recon FIP?, full size intercooler? I was hoping to be able to wait a year or so until I go the full uprated R380 from Ashcroft-route. In order to spread the money load a bit.
Is a complete teardown necessary to change the bearings of the input/output shafts? I guess a look at a workshop manual or Youtube could tell me that...
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I am rebuilding my 300 tdi into a 2.8l using crank pistons conrods from a MWM International 2.8l engine.
My R380 gearbox worked well enough when it was taken out. Intend to put back in with the upgraded clutch parts. Should I do anything to the R380, or just replace/upgrade when it starts to show issues. Am seriously tempted by the Ashcroft upgraded R380 bearings, but would prefer to wait a while with that. A gearbox swap is easy enough to do, but not on a long(ish) trip, off course.
There is some radial play in the input shaft, I mave movie clips on my phone, if it would help. Output shaft seems to run smooth with no significant play.
Mainly use the Defender for local camping trips and some occasional towing, but longer trips are planned for, hopefully a 7 000-12 000 europe trip in summer.
Opinions please?
Tobias
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Please elaborate!
Which bits to swap over to convert an EDC pump to mechanical?
Thanks!
Tobias
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I tried to fit Disco2 steel wheels, thinking they wouldoffer the most clearance as the material is thinner than alloys. Interference on the screw for the lower swivel ball joint. Ground down the screw to the surface of the nut, still interference.
Bought 30mm spacers for a D2 and turned out the centre hole, as D3/4 has a larger diameter hub, interference on the front brake caliper. Ground the caliper as much as I dared, still interference, now only marginal.
This was on a 2005 TDV6 HSE D3. I believe the V8 and perhaps later might have even bigger brakes?
In short, 16 is impossible/needs a major reengineering.
HTH
Tobias -
Tickets and accomodation booked.
Flying in to London thursday night, so should arrive Stratford around midday Friday. Hence targeting Saturday for the show and the rest of the time general sightseeing in Stratford and surroundings.
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Seriously thinking of going. As I'll be flying in, I doubt I will be camping. Would it be feasible to come walking/taxi and camp with a ground tent?
T
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Raising this old thread as there is a show again this year! ;-)
I am seriously thinking of going. Flying in friday and back to Sweden sunday.
Anybody else?
T-
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seems the m.unit.blue is pre-programmed but the motobrain is more configurable. Or am I missing something?
T
Flip up screen stereo/cd
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Which unit and from where, please?