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Posts posted by rick
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returning to the question- td5 oil- recommended oil is 5/30- 5/40w- service intervals are 12k and LR originally recommended Mobil 1 synthetic.- this is what they used to use at the dealers when i used to take it to them. now i do my own services i have used 0/30w (silver hook), 5/40w (halfords/mobil 1, and now 5/30w (unipart synthetic big tub) all synthetic. they is a lot of info re oils on internet - alot of which i dont understand but i think a lot of HGV now use longlife oil lasting 20,000+ miles and some fleets do oil tests to see if new oil is needed. using an expensive oil and dumping it at 5000 miles would be a false economy. but depends on your driving, load , towing etc i think. but a decent synthetic should last til the 12k service interval.
Yep, I agree.
I've never run a TD5, but have run a number of other diesels, indirect and direct injected on various oils and it's relatively easy to go 20,000km with premium oils in the right conditions without the oil breaking into a sweat, particularly when the manufacturer recommends it !
FWIW I used to take a 'dirty' Nissan TD42T indirect injected lump out to 20,000km OCI's regularly. Oil analysis indicated the oil was more than fine at that distance and could easily have travelled another 10,000km, but we were well in front financially at that point, reducing wear and servicing costs over what had been used. (previously we were dumping 10.5 litres of oil every three weeks for the 5,000km service mandated by Nissan under warranty )
OCI's have since been reduced to 10-15,000km as it's usage has changed (lots of short tips) but it's still not bad for a 'dirty' diesel with over 300,000km on it now. Hell, it hasn't even had the tappets adjusted for 100,000km, they are still within spec.
With the wear trends indicated so far, this engine will be with us for a very long time to come.
Stick to manufacturer recommended specs re viscosity and service intervals and you should get a long service life out of your engine. If it's used in 'severe service' conditions, (short trips, towing in high ambients or used heavily off road for extended periods) shorten the oil change interval. Use common sense, but try and use the best spec oil you can afford if you want to keep it running for a long time with minimal wear.
No oil will cope with dirt, coolant or any major contamination, if it's contaminated, dump it, but the premium oils resist oxidation, nitration and acidity far better than cheapy oils, and generally tolerate much higher spikes in engine temps, particularly with turbochargers than cheap oils. For this reason they will go further between changes without deteriorating as much as a cheap oil.
It's a combination of better base stocks, and more importantly, a more robust additive package.
This is where the premium diesel specific oils win out, they utilise a much more robust additive package than their petrol oil counterparts as they don't have quite the same restrictions put on them in terms of energy efficiency (they generally have higher HTHS thresholds) and catalyst contamination (although this is changing with the latest low SAPS oils, but the restrictions are being worked around with better quality/higher cost additives)
End of the day, it's your call as an owner how you spend your hard earned, but it irks me when blokes say "oils are all the same", "just use xyz", "my engine is fine on coconut oil " when they haven't got the foggiest what the hell is going on between pouring it in and dumping it or what the differences may be between specific oils.
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As long as it meets the required standards it doesnt matter on cost really, go cheap as you can because its all the same to meet the BS/EU/ACEA or whatever standards.
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A supplier here is selling a pump made in Spain that looked nice, with a cast impeller that looks better than the OE pressed metal one.
Anyone know what it could be or anything about them ?
I can't remember the name, it was being fitted in a local garage when I saw it.
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Use the best oil you can afford, it's cheap insurance.
Maybe look for a diesel specific oil, in this part of the world diesel oils are cheaper than petrol ones, including the premium synthetic diesel oils and they have a much more robust anti-wear package than their petrol specific counterparts and cope with the EGR much better.
If I had a Td5 I'd be using a good diesel specific oil that met ACEA E4/E6/E7, or at a minimum a petrol/diesel oil that met ACEA A3/B4 in either an xW-30 or an xW-40.
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Polys last an even shorter amount of time if you start flexing them. Rose joint life realy depends on the quality of the joint and how you look after them - if you look at any rally car they will all use them.
Only if it's a hard durometer poly.
Super Pro ones last as they are sensibly engineered (ie. not too hard)
BTW, rose joints flog out in no time in dust, dirt and mud, you just keep replacing them in rallying and speedway.
The only way to make a rose joint last is use these http://www.sealsit.com/rodend.asp or these http://www.sealsit.com/rodendboots.asp
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You did mark which way it came out, didn't you ?
It's a good idea when undoing things like prop shafts to mark each section with a corresponding mark so that assembly can be the same way they came apart so that things like balance aren't adversely affected.
BTW, the front prop is 'phased' ie, the uni's aren't in line with each other, one is offset about 30* relative to its mate.
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<snip> and the fact they're not tunable (well some are but none for Land Rovers I've seen yet)
<snip>
Trust me, that's a good thing.
Most people can't adjust tyre pressures, can you see Joe average adjusting an ARB and knowing what he/she's doing and how they affect the balance of the car ?
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As for pressing the old ones out of the Panhard rod, I just used a couple of suitably sized sockets and a vice (and a bit of water pipe on the vice handle
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been fitted at least 5 years IIRC.
hasn't caused any leakage as it is, the parts I noted on the modified parts page are [were] used on the 2.5 TD engine & will fit all the 2.5 4 cylinder engines in 90/110 & may even be possible to fit to a 300Tdi engine.
<snip>
Cheers Ralph.
VDO make a tee that will allow the use of the OE sender and another for a gauge too.
It looks exactly like your setup, I've just been concerned with breakage on our lovely roads out here, so I was going to braze a thermowell (a brass housing that a sender screws into) into the side of the sump.
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243 Loctite.
But thoroughly clean the threads and holes with a good solvent and dry before applying.
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nas 90 was wondering how you get your bushes out do you burn the middle out, hacksaw, then knock them out ?? or do you know a better way i know there is a removal tool called a bushwacker but i cant justifie £300 advice much appreciated
I use a 40 ton press these days, but have been known to use the oxy and a hacksaw in the past........
And I still believe Super Pro make a superior bush. I have them everywhere now except the diff end of the lower rear trailing arms.
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Ditto what TC said, and my 130 is a DD/work and trip vehicle.
Most everyone here runs MD stuff as the stock axles aren't up to the job. You wont damage the Sals with LR diameter axles.
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Ralph, I've looked at that tee and sender in my VDO catalogue that many times now and the only thing that has stopped me doing anything is the the length of it all bouncing around out in the breeze. (to check temps I taped a thermocouple to the outside of the oil filter
)How long have you had it fitted now ?
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Not unexpected, standard Land Rover Sals half shafts are like cheese.
Order some Rovertracks, HiTough (nee Maxi-Drive) or Ashcroft ones. Basically whoever is cheapest at the time.
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Brendan, if you go vertical remember that you'll have to use longer stroke dampers than you do if inclined, and yes, the internal forces are less when vertically mounted thanks to the greater piston travel/amount of axle travel compared to an inclined damper.
As I mentioned on AULRO, a single Koni Raid would probably do the job well. (it's what they are designed for)
It has double the oil volume of a normal Koni Heavy Track, and no need for extra mounts.
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Workshop manual doesn't say hot or cold just 0.20mm but doing theat on a hot engine it will be totally different when that engine cools down overnight.
Actually it doesn't alter much if any at all which is surprising.
I always used to do them cold, but a well known landy mechanic here advised me that it doesn't matter and he does them hot.
He really pushes checking them every service as you can keep an eye on the caps and he's found they really affect engine performance if you let the clearances blow out a little.
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Replace the lot, they are a relatively common failure.
You don't have to remove the rocker gear to replace them, just wind the rocker adjusters back.
I disagree with Ralph, clearances can be set hot or cold (0.008") and they are fairly critical for good performance.
I'd actually recommend dropping the sump and cleaning the shrapnel out as it won't come out with an oil change, about 200-300ml of oil stays behind in the sump when you remove the drain plug.
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You inspired me Ralph.
I've had some new bushes sitting in the parts bin for twelve months now and the drivers side bush has been soaking in PAS fluid for 100,000km on and off.
I had just read this thread, the rain had stopped, it was only four o'clock or so, so I raced out and swapped the buggers out.
Guess what, the old ones weren't too shabby after all, even after 255,000km.
Anyway, they are done now and a new boot and some grease in the tie rod end that had to be popped out.
Yes, they are Super Pro.
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I hope for your sake it isn't the typical lack of loctite on the oil pump sprocket bolt.
A number here have failed with catastrophic consequences (and are still failing), some that are checked are loose, some are tight and have no loctite, many are OK.
A major stuff up by Land Rover.
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Bought a 1898 127 over the weekend, <snip>
at 110 years old, does that classify as a vintage or veteran 130 ??
AFAIK, all the factory jobs are a 110 chassis with a cut and shut.
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They are different lengths between the disc and drum braked rears.
Different bearing spacing on the hubs, etc.
Stock axles are soft, drive flanges aren't much better which is why most here use Hi-Tough (nee Maxi Drive) or Rover Tracks axles from the US (better as they are one piece flange/axle)
If using two piece (axle + drive flange) Use an early style RTC 3511 hub seal (mounted 4mm inside the hub face) and ditch the axle tube seal.
The splines will last forever then.
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There should be a tutorial in the tech section where it shows how to use a nut adapter screwed onto the injector to use a slide hammer.
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SuperPro easily outlast the OE rubber ones in my experience.
All their bushes are available individually.
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FWIW I'd never use a GL4 gear oil in any diff, even a Rover spiral bevel type and never, ever use a GL4 oil in a hypoid diff like a Sals if you want your CWP to survive.
The API GL4 spec uses roughly 1/3 to 1/2 less of the EP/AW additives of a GL5, and most all, or at least the decent brands, have the sulphur buffered so it isn't corrosive.
Generally any GL5 that's blended for transaxle use is suitable for a normal manual gearbox too, (often dual rated GL4/5) with the correct type and amount of friction modifiers for decent synchro use.
If unsure grab a TDS and look for the copper corrosion test numbers.
GL4's are typically 1a, and most good GL5's are 1b, meaning they are safe for any yellow metals present.
If you ever get to have a look at a copper corrosion chart, (can't find mine ATM) there is bugger all difference between 1a (no discolouration at all) and 1b (very, very slight, has to be put beside 1a to see the difference)
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wheel bearing lubrication?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Older Land Rovers used the diff oil travelling up the axle tubes to lubricate the wheel bearings and splines on the drive flange/axle.
Later ones under BMW's tenure went to greased bearings and axle tube seals and simplified hub seals.
As a consequence, axle/drive flange splines flog out and the new seals let water in so the bearings are buggered too quickly.
Fit RTC3511 hub seals (double spring energised) pressed 4mm below the hub face, remove the axle tube seal and alls well with the world again.
Do a search, it's been discussed ad nauseum on here and most Land Rover forums over the years.