LiftedDisco
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Posts posted by LiftedDisco
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235-85 R16 will run at just under 32” (31.7” to be precise) - I originally ran some 215-85 R16’s which everyone thought were too narrow but, in reality, were cracking tyres that would cut through the mire and get some decent drip whilst also giving a decent turning circle.
The 215-85 R16’s will give you a tyre size of 30.3” so not quite so much clearance under the diff...
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Are you sorted yet?
Have they eaten the electric window module? If so, i have one and can probably also sort out the relevant bits of loom to replace anything that has been attacked... PM me if you need!
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Ask and you shall receive...
From memory (very dim and distant...) this was taken at an AWDC event at Bordon - I’d hesitate to put a date to this but I’d dragged my Dad along and suspect it was early 80’s, possibly even ‘79 as the photos are all in B&W and I would have printed these at school...
Photo of the mud run included just for a laugh... pretty wet, pretty spectacular!
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Ianto is an absolute top chap and does know his stuff inside out... I know various folks that have been through the Off-Highway Engineering course at Harper Adams and they come out with a wealth of experience that covers both theoretical knowledge but this is then underpinned by a practical application.
Our daughter was fortunate enough to do her Dissertation on autonomous vehicle capability in an off-road environment, using a top of the range Full Fat Range Rover around the engineering section at Eastnor with her output then being shared back into JLR.
She’s now a Project Lead with JLR, whilst her partner (also known to some on here...) is ex-Harper Adams, ex-Bowler and is now creating some pretty stunning off-road racing machinery...
It would be good to see some of the YouTube output as being suitable for encouraging STEM subjects at pre-GCSE level, getting kids enthused before they get side-tracked by other subjects and options... even better if they can get it looking at STEM and girls to encourage more diversity feeding through into HAU and other courses.
Thank you for sharing...
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Try searching for Thermoplastic Honeycomb Panels - there are a number of options out there and they now use this for lightweight (but strong) bodybuilding for van conversions etc.
I’ve also seen it used for boarding on scaffold towers etc - the thickness will depend on what you have for support structure and what sort of weight you are putting on / in the trailer. I’ve used some 18mm thick with a non-slip finish on a project and it’s easy to work.
Hope this helps...
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@snagger - good point and I think I’d been taken in by the two photos shown in the OP’s first post. On reflection, the second image shows a LHD Defender, possibly with US style plates and this may explain the disparity in lighting positions between the two vehicles.
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Lighting requirements are all detailed in the IVA manual:
Page 137 onwards will assist with dimensions and angles of view etc.
My only comment would be that you seem to suggest putting the indicators as the outermost lamp - is this for appearance? My thoughts would be that tail-lights are going to be permanently illuminated at night and would (if used as the outermost lamp) give clear definition to the width of the vehicle.
Indicators, by comparison, are only used periodically - a motorcyclist coming up behind might make a judgement on how wide they ‘think’ the vehicle is - if it turns out to be 150mm or so wider on each side, then it could all get interesting!
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As Ross has mentioned, @discomikey is the fella to talk to - I know he’s just done manifolds for someone else and they were a work of art!
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Thank you - much appreciated!
I’ve now found the pages - the image you’ve shown is the ECU connection and I’m after the link into the main loom... it’s only about 6 wires and I’m likely to unknit the loom to track and trace the connections.
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Doe anyone have a wiring diagram to go with the Wabco power brake system, as per ‘92 Range Rover Classic?
I’ve got the loom that runs the power brakes, but there is a connector that links into the main loom and I’d like to understand what works what... where the connections end up etc.
Can anyone help?
Many thanks
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Did you manage to separate the explosive part / gubbins of the air bag and leave the external trim piece to reinstall in the seat?
I’ve currently disconnected mine in the seat base but will (at some stage) need to put the vehicle through an IVA test and think the man in the white coat may not look to favourably on the seats if they still contain the (disconnected) airbags...
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41 minutes ago, western said:
McGovern keeps mentioning 'reductive & verticality' what the heck is that all about, why not just say the design is modern more space inside & the rear end is vertical just the same as the original Series/90/110/defender
Glad I’m not the only one that was irked by the constant ‘non-English’ - what on earth was all that carp about???
I’m also sick and tired of folks moaning about the costs of the New Defender - yep, the launch versions are a tad on the pricey side, but they are suggesting they are going to be ‘from £40k’ and there’s a general wailing and rending of clothes that this is ‘too much...’
I’ve been fortunate enough to look at various vehicles recently, and guess what, these prices are in keeping with the rest of the car industry - it doesn’t matter if you go Volvo, Merc or Audi, they are still super spendy! We’ve just picked up a Jag F—Pace (on Privilege Scheme, so super discounted) and it’s still not a cheap car...
Good luck JLR - I’ll nail my colours to the mast... I like it and could well be ordering one when the Commercials come out...
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I’m hoping someone might have a hard-top or County stripped and ready for paint and therefore be able to measure the sizes of the rear quarter-light window openings.
I’m after the dimensions of the hole - height and then two widths, at the top (narrow end of the window) and the wider bottom dimension.
I need to cut openings to take new glass and don’t have an existing hard top to measure.... can anyone assist?
Many thanks!
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I was just about to ‘like’ a whole series of posts, all of which make perfect sense.... then realised @discomikey was responsible...
Hahaha... yep, I know you have the experience and knowledge to make such statements!
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19 hours ago, missingsid said:
Stood in the queue for the reasonable time it took to get from the end to the ticket office and watched a middleaged couple walk staright up to the kiosk and shrug off peoples complaints like nobody else mattered.
... can’t help but wonder if they were the folks who nicked a single fog light from me...
I mean, how low can folks go - it was one single, solitary fog light and I don’t even know what it would fit... it was a refugee from a previous pre-Newbury bulk-buy of tat (sorry, incredibly useful artefacts) and I think I was only asking £2 for it!
If someone had a genuine need, I’d have probably donated it - shame they didn’t chose to nick the five grotty old RRC alloys and tyres (suitable for refurb...) that I really, really wanted to shift to give me more storage space!
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I’ll be meeting others at Didcot Maccy’s at 07:30, then heading in...
What on earth can I buy this time around that will sell well in October?
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In terms of tyre sizes, they are different ways of expressing info and there’s no real ‘conversion’... you can use the information from (say) 265/75/R16 to give you the rolling diameter etc...
The 31 relates to the rolling diameter, the 10.5 relates to the width (in inches, so actually 266.7mm) whereas 265 is the tread width in millimetres.
The ‘75’ bit (or other number in the middle of the tyre size) is the size of the sidewall as a percentage of the width... i.e. 265/75 would have a side height of 198.75mm but, more maths coming, you then need to convert this to inches to calculate the rolling diameter as you take the side height and double this (as you need tyre to both sides of the rim to calculate the diameter.
198.75mm equates to 7.824 inches, double this to 15.65 inches and then add the R16 (radius of the rim, again in inches...) to get a rolling diameter of 31.64”
Simples...
In terms of tyre choices, there are plenty out there and it will ultimately come down to budget...
Hope this helps!
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Ross’s idea of using Unistrut would work and would be cheap but will be somewhat basic and requires tools to shift the awning along.
I have some load restraint rails from a Range Rover Sport which have locking tabs to go in... I might be persuaded to part with these but the question is then how best to fix the awning to the locking tab units to allow for easy movement of the combined assembly.
The other potential solution may well lie with a sliding door assembly - do a Google search for ‘industrial sliding door’ and you will come up with Henderson Door kit (or similar) which would allow a track to be secured to the roofrack and the travelling wheels being mounted on the awning pack. There are lots of options out there and a bolt system (potentially with padlock for security whilst parked and in transit) would work well.
Good luck!!!
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Miggit... I’m in Towcester with a ‘92 RRC in a state of total undress as part of a Tornado build process but it originally had ARB (albeit on 10 spline axels) and you are welcome to come for a measure-up if you want
Any good?
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Another vote for A-Plan - not too sure if they do main vehicles, but very good to deal with.
Equally NFU are spot on and would be my choice for main use - their claim service is second to none and they do understand Land Rovers - make sure you ring the local office and not just their call centre team...
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Still a long way from being completed, but triple wipers for the Tornado...
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Whilst if you follow the link to the consultation, it tells you that responses to the consultation are still being considered...
Interestingly, the IVA requirements were in ‘draft’ form until 9th April with a new version then available for download from 10th April.
I would (cynically) suggest that the plans were already well developed and the post-10th April IVA regs are now those in force until the next upheaval...
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Looking for some help on interior trim colours - I’m currently building a Tornado based on a RRC chassis, 300 Tdi and am using a D2 dash which has been trimmed to suit.
I’d also needed a grab handle to replace the airbag (not needed) and therefore scooped up another dash yesterday at Newbury which also happened to have the heater controls that I needed.
On getting home and in the sanctity of the garage, I realised that my original dash is a (dirty) grey whereas the new dash is more of a blue-grey.
Is there any guidance on the various colours - it may well be that yesterday’s purchase is a D1 soft-dash... overall, it’s in better condition than the original but I’d like to understand what colours I’m looking for to find the right central console...
Can anyone help? Thanks...!
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Both are cracking shots... done, twice!!!
Insurance for new or nearly new cars
in International Forum
Posted
Another vote for NFU who are good if they are on your side, but absolute Rottweilers if they are insuring the other party and claiming on your insurance...
Admiral were really good with our daughter when her ambition outweighed her ability on a wet country road (as if that would ever happen to a 19 year old...) and their multi-car policy is well worth considering if you have a number of cars and/or your household insurance to cover.