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About LiftedDisco

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  1. Glad I’m not the only one that was irked by the constant ‘non-English’ - what on earth was all that carp about??? I’m also sick and tired of folks moaning about the costs of the New Defender - yep, the launch versions are a tad on the pricey side, but they are suggesting they are going to be ‘from £40k’ and there’s a general wailing and rending of clothes that this is ‘too much...’ I’ve been fortunate enough to look at various vehicles recently, and guess what, these prices are in keeping with the rest of the car industry - it doesn’t matter if you go Volvo, Merc or Audi, they are still super spendy! We’ve just picked up a Jag F—Pace (on Privilege Scheme, so super discounted) and it’s still not a cheap car... Good luck JLR - I’ll nail my colours to the mast... I like it and could well be ordering one when the Commercials come out...
  2. I’m hoping someone might have a hard-top or County stripped and ready for paint and therefore be able to measure the sizes of the rear quarter-light window openings. I’m after the dimensions of the hole - height and then two widths, at the top (narrow end of the window) and the wider bottom dimension. I need to cut openings to take new glass and don’t have an existing hard top to measure.... can anyone assist? Many thanks!
  3. I was just about to ‘like’ a whole series of posts, all of which make perfect sense.... then realised @discomikey was responsible... Hahaha... yep, I know you have the experience and knowledge to make such statements!
  4. ... can’t help but wonder if they were the folks who nicked a single fog light from me... I mean, how low can folks go - it was one single, solitary fog light and I don’t even know what it would fit... it was a refugee from a previous pre-Newbury bulk-buy of tat (sorry, incredibly useful artefacts) and I think I was only asking £2 for it! If someone had a genuine need, I’d have probably donated it - shame they didn’t chose to nick the five grotty old RRC alloys and tyres (suitable for refurb...) that I really, really wanted to shift to give me more storage space!
  5. I’ll be meeting others at Didcot Maccy’s at 07:30, then heading in... What on earth can I buy this time around that will sell well in October?
  6. In terms of tyre sizes, they are different ways of expressing info and there’s no real ‘conversion’... you can use the information from (say) 265/75/R16 to give you the rolling diameter etc... The 31 relates to the rolling diameter, the 10.5 relates to the width (in inches, so actually 266.7mm) whereas 265 is the tread width in millimetres. The ‘75’ bit (or other number in the middle of the tyre size) is the size of the sidewall as a percentage of the width... i.e. 265/75 would have a side height of 198.75mm but, more maths coming, you then need to convert this to inches to calculate the rolling diameter as you take the side height and double this (as you need tyre to both sides of the rim to calculate the diameter. 198.75mm equates to 7.824 inches, double this to 15.65 inches and then add the R16 (radius of the rim, again in inches...) to get a rolling diameter of 31.64” Simples... In terms of tyre choices, there are plenty out there and it will ultimately come down to budget... Hope this helps!
  7. Ross’s idea of using Unistrut would work and would be cheap but will be somewhat basic and requires tools to shift the awning along. I have some load restraint rails from a Range Rover Sport which have locking tabs to go in... I might be persuaded to part with these but the question is then how best to fix the awning to the locking tab units to allow for easy movement of the combined assembly. The other potential solution may well lie with a sliding door assembly - do a Google search for ‘industrial sliding door’ and you will come up with Henderson Door kit (or similar) which would allow a track to be secured to the roofrack and the travelling wheels being mounted on the awning pack. There are lots of options out there and a bolt system (potentially with padlock for security whilst parked and in transit) would work well. Good luck!!!
  8. Miggit... I’m in Towcester with a ‘92 RRC in a state of total undress as part of a Tornado build process but it originally had ARB (albeit on 10 spline axels) and you are welcome to come for a measure-up if you want Any good?
  9. Another vote for A-Plan - not too sure if they do main vehicles, but very good to deal with. Equally NFU are spot on and would be my choice for main use - their claim service is second to none and they do understand Land Rovers - make sure you ring the local office and not just their call centre team...
  10. Still a long way from being completed, but triple wipers for the Tornado...
  11. Whilst if you follow the link to the consultation, it tells you that responses to the consultation are still being considered... Interestingly, the IVA requirements were in ‘draft’ form until 9th April with a new version then available for download from 10th April. I would (cynically) suggest that the plans were already well developed and the post-10th April IVA regs are now those in force until the next upheaval...
  12. Looking for some help on interior trim colours - I’m currently building a Tornado based on a RRC chassis, 300 Tdi and am using a D2 dash which has been trimmed to suit. I’d also needed a grab handle to replace the airbag (not needed) and therefore scooped up another dash yesterday at Newbury which also happened to have the heater controls that I needed. On getting home and in the sanctity of the garage, I realised that my original dash is a (dirty) grey whereas the new dash is more of a blue-grey. Is there any guidance on the various colours - it may well be that yesterday’s purchase is a D1 soft-dash... overall, it’s in better condition than the original but I’d like to understand what colours I’m looking for to find the right central console... Can anyone help? Thanks...!
  13. I think it's a lovely bit of kit and would certainly prefer it to the D5
  14. We specify desiccant dehumidifiers for a variety of clients and uses but these are typically used in virtually airtight environments - they are efficient to run and, as stated above, work by regenerating the rotor using a heater element. As such, you need recycled air passing over the dehumidification rotor and also an extract to fresh air which will dump the wet output air - there is a slight 'heating' benefit in that the incoming (dry) air is heated to around 3 deg C above the ambient temperature as it passes through the regeneration process. Keeping RH below 45% will virtually eliminate the risk of rust but, if you have leather upholstery or similar, may also be too dry for other components.
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