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About LiftedDisco

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  1. 235-85 R16 will run at just under 32” (31.7” to be precise) - I originally ran some 215-85 R16’s which everyone thought were too narrow but, in reality, were cracking tyres that would cut through the mire and get some decent drip whilst also giving a decent turning circle. The 215-85 R16’s will give you a tyre size of 30.3” so not quite so much clearance under the diff...
  2. Are you sorted yet? Have they eaten the electric window module? If so, i have one and can probably also sort out the relevant bits of loom to replace anything that has been attacked... PM me if you need!
  3. Ask and you shall receive... From memory (very dim and distant...) this was taken at an AWDC event at Bordon - I’d hesitate to put a date to this but I’d dragged my Dad along and suspect it was early 80’s, possibly even ‘79 as the photos are all in B&W and I would have printed these at school... Photo of the mud run included just for a laugh... pretty wet, pretty spectacular!
  4. Ianto is an absolute top chap and does know his stuff inside out... I know various folks that have been through the Off-Highway Engineering course at Harper Adams and they come out with a wealth of experience that covers both theoretical knowledge but this is then underpinned by a practical application. Our daughter was fortunate enough to do her Dissertation on autonomous vehicle capability in an off-road environment, using a top of the range Full Fat Range Rover around the engineering section at Eastnor with her output then being shared back into JLR. She’s now a Proj
  5. Try searching for Thermoplastic Honeycomb Panels - there are a number of options out there and they now use this for lightweight (but strong) bodybuilding for van conversions etc. I’ve also seen it used for boarding on scaffold towers etc - the thickness will depend on what you have for support structure and what sort of weight you are putting on / in the trailer. I’ve used some 18mm thick with a non-slip finish on a project and it’s easy to work. Hope this helps...
  6. @snagger - good point and I think I’d been taken in by the two photos shown in the OP’s first post. On reflection, the second image shows a LHD Defender, possibly with US style plates and this may explain the disparity in lighting positions between the two vehicles.
  7. Lighting requirements are all detailed in the IVA manual: https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/930212/individual-vehicle-approval-inspection-manual-vans.pdf Page 137 onwards will assist with dimensions and angles of view etc. My only comment would be that you seem to suggest putting the indicators as the outermost lamp - is this for appearance? My thoughts would be that tail-lights are going to be permanently illuminated at night and would (if used as the outermost lamp) give clear definition to the
  8. As Ross has mentioned, @discomikey is the fella to talk to - I know he’s just done manifolds for someone else and they were a work of art!
  9. Thank you - much appreciated! I’ve now found the pages - the image you’ve shown is the ECU connection and I’m after the link into the main loom... it’s only about 6 wires and I’m likely to unknit the loom to track and trace the connections.
  10. Doe anyone have a wiring diagram to go with the Wabco power brake system, as per ‘92 Range Rover Classic? I’ve got the loom that runs the power brakes, but there is a connector that links into the main loom and I’d like to understand what works what... where the connections end up etc. Can anyone help? Many thanks
  11. Did you manage to separate the explosive part / gubbins of the air bag and leave the external trim piece to reinstall in the seat? I’ve currently disconnected mine in the seat base but will (at some stage) need to put the vehicle through an IVA test and think the man in the white coat may not look to favourably on the seats if they still contain the (disconnected) airbags...
  12. Glad I’m not the only one that was irked by the constant ‘non-English’ - what on earth was all that carp about??? I’m also sick and tired of folks moaning about the costs of the New Defender - yep, the launch versions are a tad on the pricey side, but they are suggesting they are going to be ‘from £40k’ and there’s a general wailing and rending of clothes that this is ‘too much...’ I’ve been fortunate enough to look at various vehicles recently, and guess what, these prices are in keeping with the rest of the car industry - it doesn’t matter if you go Volvo, Merc or Aud
  13. I’m hoping someone might have a hard-top or County stripped and ready for paint and therefore be able to measure the sizes of the rear quarter-light window openings. I’m after the dimensions of the hole - height and then two widths, at the top (narrow end of the window) and the wider bottom dimension. I need to cut openings to take new glass and don’t have an existing hard top to measure.... can anyone assist? Many thanks!
  14. I was just about to ‘like’ a whole series of posts, all of which make perfect sense.... then realised @discomikey was responsible... Hahaha... yep, I know you have the experience and knowledge to make such statements!
  15. ... can’t help but wonder if they were the folks who nicked a single fog light from me... I mean, how low can folks go - it was one single, solitary fog light and I don’t even know what it would fit... it was a refugee from a previous pre-Newbury bulk-buy of tat (sorry, incredibly useful artefacts) and I think I was only asking £2 for it! If someone had a genuine need, I’d have probably donated it - shame they didn’t chose to nick the five grotty old RRC alloys and tyres (suitable for refurb...) that I really, really wanted to shift to give me more storage space!
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